Wool Yarns Research Articles

Humidity Induces Changes in the Dimensions of Hydrogel-Coated Wool Yarns.

Polymeric hydrogel based on acrylic acid (AA) and N,N-dimethylacrylamide (DMAA) was prepared by photopolymerization reaction, using nano-alumina as the inorganic crosslinker. Hydrogel-coated wool yarns determine their dimensional changes under humidity conditions. Surface morphology of the hydrogel-coated wool yarns was carried out using SEM microscopy. The hydrogel was further characterized by Fourier transformer infrared spectrum (FTIR), gel permeation chromatography (GPC), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), thermogravimetry (TG) and differential thermogravimetry (DTG). This contribution showed that UV-initiated polymerization coating wool yarns can change the functional properties of wool fibers.

Evaluation of wool dyeing potentials of some plant species growing in Southeastern Anatolia Region

ABSTRACTDyeing properties of ethanol and water extracts of 16 plants species growing in Turkish flora on wool fibers were examined using K3Al(SO4)2, CuSO4, and FeSO4 mordents. The dyeing performances of plant extracts were evaluated with color strength (K/S), washing fastness, and light fastness measurements of dyed fibers. The color names and color codes of dyed fibers were also determined according to Pantone TPX color guide. The naturally colored wool yarns exhibited 3.19–27.82 of color strength (K/S) and light (rating 3–5) and washing fastness (rating 4–5) properties. The present results show that colors such as brown, gray, khaki, beige known as critical colors in textiles were easily achieved by natural dyes.

RFID-based warehouse management system in wool yarn industry

RFID-based warehouse management system in wool yarn industry

Influence of dyeing conditions of natural dye extracted from Berberis integerrima fruit on color shade of woolen yarn

ABSTRACTA new source of natural dye was introduced to obtain different colors on woolen yarn by varying the dyeing condition and formulation recipe. The fruit extract of Berberis integerrima was used as a natural dye for coloration of wool fibers. Response surface methodology (RSM) has been applied to design experimental runs to evaluate the interactive effects of the operating variables. The concentration of natural dye, concentration of mordant, pH of dye bath, and dyeing time at boiling temperature was selected as independent parameters. The effect of these parameters was examined on color shade (Hue angle) of dyed yarn samples as a dependent factor. The results were indicated that the different hue angles and color shades were achieved at proposed dyeing condition of wool fibers with B. integerrima which was in the range of 25° up to 282°. Extracted natural dye from B. integerrima was presented an inhibition zone at all applied concentrations and it was dependent on its concentration.

Alternative plants to be used in natural dyeing on wool yarn fibers

ABSTRACTIn this study, 28 plants were collected from nature and the extracts were obtained with and without mordants from these plants. The wool yarns (3.5 N m natural wool carpet yarns obtained from the natural fibers 60 s, 23.3 µm, 10−4 cm) were colored by each of these extracts and the light and abrasion fastness of obtained colored substances of various colors were determined. While the plant showing the highest light fastness was walnut tree leaf (Juglans regia), the plant showing the highest abrasion fastness was determined as quince leaf (Cydonia oblonga). On the other hand, while the ferric sulfate as a mordant provided the highest light fastness, the highest abrasion fastness was obtained from the experimental group to which mordant was not applied.

The Magic in the Dye Pot: Mable Morrow, Alice Kagawa Parrott, and Sites of Exchange in Modern Weaving

In the late 1950s Japanese–American weaver and Santa Fe, New Mexico, resident, Alice Kagawa Parrott appealed to Mable Morrow, a former arts and crafts specialist for the United States Bureau of Indian Affairs, to teach her Hopi, Navajo, and Spanish-colonial methods for carding, spinning, and dyeing wool yarns. Markers of this seminal intergenerational exchange would echo throughout Parrott’s diverse production of tapestries, commercial yardages, and garments for the duration of her practice. In the following decades, she exhibited her weavings both locally and internationally and was active among a prominent network of modern artists and craftsmen such as furniture designer Sam Maloof, ceramicist Toshiko Takaezu, and fiber artist Lenore Tawney. While Parrott’s narrators have focused on her extensive use of natural dyes, the origins of this practice have received minimal attention. Addressing this gap in the scholarship, this article explores the intercultural and, at times circular, transmission of botanical and craft knowledge among Santa Fe’s Indigenous communities, government officials like Morrow, and local artists and weavers as far afield as Hawaii. An assessment of Morrow’s accumulation and preservation of traditional Native American techniques in the early twentieth century, and the adoption of these methods by Parrott in the 1960s, demonstrates that vegetal dye processes served to permeate the perceived boundary between Indigenous and modern craft production during this period. This transcultural mixing of materials and methods is perhaps best expressed by Parrott’s luminously pigmented yarns which intertwine and form the foundation of her practice and the final artworks themselves.

A Research on Colours and Fastness Values of Different Materials Dyed with Some Natural Dyes

Nowadays use of natural materials and natural methods is considered to be an element that increases the value of a product and contributes to sustainable life in environmental, economic and sociologic senses. Natural dyeing has been an avocation performed in the Anatolia region for centuries and can be used for dyeing of different materials. In this study, it is aimed to expose color values, color named, light and rubbing fastness of the colors that were obtained as a result of dyeing three different materials (wool yarn, cotton fabric and paper) with some natural dyes according to traditional method. In line with this aim, the materials were dyed with madder (<i>Rubia tinctorium L.</i>), walnut (<i>Juglans regia L. </i>), weld (<i>Reseda luteola</i>) and indigo. In consequence of the research; color names, color values, light and rubbing fastness of fifteen samples were determined. The result of the research were evaluated statistically using SPSS programme.

Biomordanting Potential of Acacia nilotica (Babul) in Conjunction with Kerria lacca and Rheum emodi Natural Dyes

ABSTRACTThis study was undertaken to propose an alternative use of Acacia nilotica bark extract as a potential source of biomordant for the development of ecofriendly shades of varying hue and tone in conjunction with Kerria lacca (Lac) and Rheum emodi (Himalayan rhubarb) natural dyes. The colorimetric analysis of K. lacca and R. emodi natural dyes were evaluated onto the woolen yarn samples adopting pre-mordanting technique using 1.0–5.0% (o.w.f.) A. nilotica as biomordant. The hue of color developed was found to be in yellow-red coordinate of color space diagram with hues shifted toward red region for K. lacca and toward yellow region for R. emodi dyed samples. The color strength (K/S) values were found to increase with increase in the concentration of biomordant and were found highest for 5.0% (o.w.f.) A. nilotica mordanted samples. Color fastness with respect to light exposure, washing, rubbing for the developed shades ranged between good to very good ratings of 4–5 on grey scale, confirming the possibility of using A. nilotica bark extract as a potential source of biomordant for enhancing the colorimetric and fastness characteristics of dyed woolen yarn samples.

Thermal comfort properties of bifacial fabrics

Bifacial fabrics, with a single jersey on one face and a plain weave on the other, were produced on a purpose-built machine. Thermal comfort properties of bifacial fabrics were compared with conventional woven and knitted fabrics and the effect of weft density and loop length of bifacial fabrics on their thermal comfort properties was investigated. While different fabric structures were produced with the same wool, acrylic, and polyester yarns, the findings confirmed that the bifacial fabric is warmer (lower total heat loss) and more breathable (higher permeability index ( im)) than the corresponding woven and knitted fabrics. Increasing the loop length of bifacial fabrics enhanced evaporative resistance, air permeability, warm feeling, thermal resistance, and water vapor permeability index, yet reduced total heat loss. An increase in the weft density of bifacial fabrics led to higher evaporative resistance, warmer feeling, higher thermal resistance, lower air permeability, and total heat loss. However, the permeability index did not change with an increase in weft density. This study suggests that thermal comfort properties of bifacial fabrics can be optimized by modifying structural parameters to engineer high-performance textiles.

Application of the nondestructive second derivative spectrophotometry to eliminate the effect of substrate in identification of madder used in Persian carpets

AbstractThe handmade Persian carpet is famous worldwide not only for its elegant design and artistic structure, but also for its brilliant color harmony and incomparable raw materials. Various natural dyes accompanied by different mordants are used on various woolen yarns to obtain a wide range of unrepeatable shades for carpet. In this article, as a first step, the diversity of the undyed woolen yarns used in Persian carpets was statistically investigated by implementation of the Principle Component Analysis. Then the second derivative of Kubelka‐Munk function of samples dyed with madder was considered to reach a pattern for identifying madder. The results show that, although the spectral reflectance of different selected woolen yarns has at least 3 dimensions, all derivative curves are qualitatively very similar with the same minimum and maximum peaks at 510 and 605 nm, respectively. The findings are confirmed when various types of madder were used in the dyeing process. As a result, it is shown that the nondestructive derivative spectrophotometry is able to identify madder on alum mordanted woolen yarns used in Persian carpets and to eliminate the effect of substrate. It is a useful technique for preservation, conservation, and dissemination of the Persian carpet.

Antimicrobial Activities of Some Natural Dyes and Dyed Wool Yarn

Natural dyes gained increasing attention due to environmental considerations. Many of the dye plants have also medicinal values. This study aimed to evaluate the effect of 25 plants as dyes and their dyed wool yarns against microorganisms. Prokaryotes were found to be more sensitive to dye extracts than eukaryotic microorganisms and dyestuff from Punica granatum, Berberis vulgaris, Agrimonia eupatoria, Rhus coriaria were effective against all bacteria. Sarcina lutea, Bacillus subtilis, MRSA and Enterococcus faecalis were sensitive to almost all dye extracts even at low concentrations. The dyed wool material tested with microorganisms, and maximum inhibition rates were obtained against S. lutea and MRSA of wool samples dyed with P. granatum and R. coriaria, respectively, while there was a drastic decrease in E. faecalis growth with the A. cepa and R. petiolaris.

Ars polymita, ars plumaria: The Weaving Terminology of Taqueté and Tapestry

In Roman Egypt papyrologists and archaeologists sometimes seem to inhabit two different, if parallel, worlds, each apparently unaware of the treasures to be found in the other. This paper, however, is a co-operative venture between an ancient historian with papyrological interests – Kerstin Droß-Krüpe – and an archaeologist – John Peter Wild. In the research field of textiles we overlap, and we want to offer you insights from each of our worlds. At some point in the later 2nd century AD an unnamed magnate in the territory of the Lingones in central Gaul dictated a will in which he stipulated that a number of his prized possessions should be cremated with him on his funeral pyre. Among those listed are vestes polymitae et plumariae. What do these two textile terms mean? And what did the textiles themselves look like? The images in Figures 1 and 2 are our provisional suggestions. The two items shown here are of wool – they are actually from Roman Egypt – and at first glance they look in decorative terms rather similar to one another;4 but the textile in Figure 1 is in taqueté – vestis polymita, we argue – mechanically woven – while the piece in Figure 2 is in tapestry weave, vestis plumaria, and hand-woven. The structures of the two weaves can be characterised as follows: Tapestry weave, made famous by the Gobelin workshops in Paris, is essentially a mosaic in coloured wool yarns, constructed free-hand, and concealing the underlying warp. The weaver has available on individual spools a selection of dyed yarns which he or she interlaces with the warp threads according to the requirements of the pattern. A distinctive feature of tapestry is the oblique lines or even vertical slits where weft yarns in different colours meet one another and turn back (Fig. 3). Across an area, an accomplished weaver can achieve the subtle, gradual, changes in colour visible in the highest-quality floor and wall-mosaics and in wall painting.

Evaluation of Dyeing Properties of Carpet Woolen Yarn with Natural and Wild Pomegranate Peel (Punica granatum)

ABSTRACTNatural and wild pomegranate peel have been used as colorants for wool yarn because of their high tannin contents. The woolen yarns dyed with pomegranate peel showed different shades of yellow and brown. Wild pomegranate peel has been used traditionally for dyeing wool to obtain brown and darker shades. Both natural and wild pomegranate peel were applied on woolen yarn in presence of four different mordants. Good light fastness was observed in dyed yarns that is due to the formation of complex with the metal which protects the chromophore from photolytic degradation. The values of washing fastness of the dyed samples show very good grades but the rubbing fastness in dyed yarns with wild pomegranate rind are not so good. Therefore, the dyeing potential of wild pomegranate peel as a natural source for wool yarn dyeing is considerable.

Comparative Analysis of Knits from Peat Fibre and its Combinations with Other Natural Fibres

Natural and man-made fibres of natural origin are more and more widely used, while consideration of sustainability is constantly increasing. The properties and processing behaviour of newly introduced fibres of natural origin are usually compared and often predicted on the basis of widely investigated fibres; however, this prediction sometimes does not have any confirmed basis. Structural parameters and the majority of mechanical and physical properties of knitted fabrics depend on technical characteristics of the knitting machine, on the properties of yarns as well as on the origin of the raw material. This study attempts to develop knits from new natural peat fibres and their combination with widely used woollen, cotton and elastomeric Lycra yarns and to investigate the influence of peat fibre’s nature on structural parameters such as loop length, wale and course spacing, area density, the tightness factor and on main physical properties such as dimensional stability, air permeability and water adsorption.

Investigation on mechanical and thermal properties of knits from peat fibers and their combination with other natural fibers

Newly designed knits of highly eco-friendly peat fibers and their combination with widely used cotton and wool fibers have been analyzed in this study. The present investigation is focused on the thermal and mechanical properties of weft knits made of peat fiber yarns and their combinations (in various percentages) with other natural fiber yarns, such as cotton and woolen yarns, as well as with elastomeric yarn, as newly developed knits are designed for clothing. It was found that newly developed knitted fabrics with peat fibers have an optimal structure for use. The renewable peat fiber yarns, spun from two kinds of natural cellulose fibers – decomposed Eriophorum vaginatum (cotton grass) sedge stems and cotton – have intermediate strength and elongation values between cotton and flax yarns, and thus are fit for knitting. All the newly designed knitted fabrics have high abrasion resistance and can be used for clothing manufacture. It was found that the nature of the yarn’s raw material and the number of different yarns in one stitch influence the heat transfer dynamic. The heat transfer dynamic through the peat fiber knit is slower than that through the cotton fabric, but it is faster than through the woolen fabric. When the heat transfer process through knitted fabric is faster, this structure may be recommended for warmer seasons.

The study of strain proprieties of woolen yarns mixed with elastomer, bleached and coloured

Textile yarns have mechanical properties that enable their transformation using woven, knitted structures or other procedures into textile products. Tensile strength is one of the basic features of the yarn because it influences the behaviour of yarns in processing (preparation for weaving, weaving, knitting) determining the technological parameters of equipment adjustment, and their productivity. Also, the breaking strength of yarns is a qualitative characteristic because its value depends on its quality and the product. For these reasons the characteristic mentioned above is established by internal norms and STAS by the minimum permissible value, depending on the feedstock, production technology and destination. In this paper there were analysed the woolen yarns 75% mixed with elastomer 25%, fineness of 34/1 Nm and torque of 470 twists/m using the device USTER® TENSOJET 4. The comparative study in terms of breaking strength of these yarns was conducted for two groups of yarns, the first batch being bleached yarns and the second batch, colour yarns (dyed) for knitting. From a practical standpoint, the resistance is evaluated by the average value and the coefficient of variation.

Colorful and semi durable antioxidant finish of woolen yarn with tannin rich extract of Acacia nilotica natural dye

Evaluations of coloring potential, antioxidant activity, and toxicological studies of Acacia nilotica bark extract onto woolen yarn were performed with the aim of developing bioactive fibers for use in medical textile sector. In the present study, we present dyeing potential, colorimetric characteristics (CIEL*a*b* and K/S), and fastness properties of Acacia nilotica dyed woolen yarn with the optimization of affecting conditions through conventional one-factor-at-a-time (OFT) optimization technique using reflectance spectroscopic analysis. Four most important operating parameters namely pH, time, temperature, and dye concentration were optimized in terms of color strength (K/S) values for producing textile materials of acceptable colorimetric and fastness characteristics. Use of different metal salts (alum, ferrous sulfate, and stannous chloride) has improved color characteristics and fastness properties of dyed textile materials. Antioxidant potential of hydroalcholic bark extract of Acacia nilotica was evaluated in terms of reducing power and inhibition of peroxidation by 2,2′-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH) scavenging activity and subsequently dyed woolen yarn in terms of inhibition of peroxidation by DPPH assay and compared with that of the ascorbic acid used as positive control. Mordanting reduced the antioxidant activity of dyed woolen yarn as compared to unmordanted samples. Wash durability results proved successful antioxidant finishing of woolen yarn dyed with Acacia nilotica bark extract. Reduction in antioxidant activity on successive washing cycles follows 1st order rate equation. Haemolytic activity on rat erythrocytes were studied to exclude possibility of any associated cytotoxicity. The observed antioxidant characteristics and negligible cytoxicity of Acacia nilotica indicate that the dye might be a promising antioxidant finishing agent for developing bioactive textile materials and clothing in near future.

Imparting Flame-Retardant and Antistatic Properties to Two- Layer Knitted Fabrics

Imparting Flame-Retardant and Antistatic Properties to Two-Layer Knitted Fabrics A technology of multi-functional two-layer knitted fabrics with barrier properties was developed on the basis of design works within the scope of both material-structural and technical-technological parameters. The barrier properties of knitted fabrics were imparted to them by using the following yarns to make their top layers: • Yarns of 100% metaaramide fibers and blended (metaaramide + viscose FR) fibers imparting protective properties against hot thermal conditions, • Yarns of blended metaaramide and antistatic fibers imparting to the knitted fabrics protective properties against hot thermal factors and static electricity, while for the bottom layers the following were used: Blended cotton and wool yarns with the addition of viscose FR fibers or modacryl Protex fibers, imparting to the knitted fabrics protective properties against hot thermal conditions and beneficial physiological properties. The comprehensive tests carried out to determine structural, physico-mechanical, chemical and functional barrier properties as well as physiological comfort of the knitted fabrics allowed us: • To design fabric structures in two-layer and plating system, • To choose optimal knitted fabrics for the technology development of multi-functional protective fabrics on the basis of knitting and finishing processes, • To work out design and structural assumptions and to make protective fabrics on the basis of the analysis and properties of the fabrics. The knitted fabrics designed can find their use as individual protective measures for workers exposed to work conditions such as: hot thermal conditions and static electricity.

Physical properties of uas sheep wool and acrylic blended yarns

In order to enhance the optimum utilization and improve the properties of UAS (University of Agricultural Sciences) sheep fleece, it was blended with other synthetic fibres. The scoured and pre-carded UAS sheep fleece was blended with acrylic in the varied proportions viz., 70/30, 60/40 and 50/50 through sandwich/stack blending technique. The blended fibres were subjected to a woolen carding system and spun on a hand charka and friction spinning machine. Pure and blended yarns were subjected to physical properties such as yarn count (Nm), yarn twist (tpi), single yarn strength (kgf) and elongation (%). The results revealed that among the wool/acrylic blends, hand spun 70/30 blend exhibited a higher number of tpi (7.20) and single yarn strength (0.52). Whereas, the friction spun 50/50 blend possessed higher tpi (9.88), greater strength (0.55) and elongation percentage (14.62). In general, friction spun wool/acrylic blended yarns exhibited significantly finer yarn count (5.91–13.08), greater tpi (5.10–9.88) and elongation percentage (13.08–14.62) than the hand spun pure and blended yarns. Among the various blends compositions and spinning methods, the friction spun 50/50 blend possessed higher tpi (9.88), greater strength (0.55) and elongation percentage (14.62). Hence, 50/50 blend at friction spinning may be considered as recommended blend composition. In case of hand spinning, it is not possible to make recommendation as there is no clear trend for yarn properties. The blending of local coarse grade wool with acrylic and other natural and synthetic fibres will certainly meet the need ofthe present local woolen market and sustain the shepherds and local woolen spinners.

Research Regarding the Physical-Mechanical Properties of Knits for Garments – Abrasion Resistance

During wear, the fabric is subjected to a complex combination of forces acting at various rates, in various intensities, in various directions and for various periods. This is one of the main causes of a fabric and garment becoming unacceptable for further wear.The main goal of this research paper is to improve the physical-mechanical properties of knits for garments by choosing the right fabric structure and raw material. The abrasion resistance is a mechanical deterioration and progressive loss of substance from a fabric, resulting from the fabric rubbing against itself or another surface.Tests was done on weft knitted fabric for garments using cotton, wool and mixed yarns, three different patterns, according to the EN ISO EN ISO 12947: 1999 - Determination of Abrasion Resistance of Fabrics by Martindale Method.For assessment, two different methods were performed.