Cosmeceutical Potential Research Articles

Cosmeceutical potentials of Curcuma mangga Val. extract in human BJ fibroblasts against MMP1, MMP3, and MMP13

Oxidative stress, the disrupted oxidation-reduction mechanism in our body, is caused by the excessive exposure of free radicals and the impaired antioxidant defenses that can accelerate skin aging. Antioxidants can be obtained from nature, which are available widely in therapeutic-rich plants, such as white saffron (Curcuma mangga Val., denoted as C. mangga). Although many pieces of evidence reveal that C. mangga contains an abundance of phenolic compounds and has antioxidative effects, its cosmeceutical potentials remain unclear. The present study aimed to disclose the unexplored antiaging potentials of C. mangga extract (CME) in oxidative stress-induced human BJ fibroblasts with a focus on collagen protection against pro-inflammatory mediators MMP1, MMP3, and MMP13. The oxidative stress-induced cells were treated with CME and curcumin at different doses. The results showed that treatment using CME (25 μg/mL) could maintain the collagen contents up to 18.45 ± 0.68 μg/mL in H2O2-treated fibroblasts (only ~26.63% reduction in collagen contents), while the figure for the negative control was the lowest (12.79 μg/mL), showing a significant reduction in collagen contents by 49.13%. In addition, the gene expression of pro-inflammatory MMPs arose significantly in BJ fibroblasts after oxidative stress induction using 200 μM H2O2, in which the expression for MMP1, MMP3, and MMP13 increased by 7.10, 38.96, and 2.69 times, respectively. Interestingly, CME treatment (100 μg/mL) could effectively inhibit MMP1, MMP3, and MMP13 gene expression by 3.65, 34.62, and 2.02 times, respectively. In conclusion, CME showed favorable antiaging activities in H2O2-treated human BJ fibroblasts as confirmed by the low levels of gene expression of MPP1, MMP3, and MMP13 after treatment with CME.

Pharmacological and Cosmeceutical Potential of Seaweed Beach-Casts of Macaronesia

Seaweed beach-casts are a seasonal phenomenon that regularly deposits tons of algae biomass on beaches, which are usually disposed of in landfills. The present work aimed to contribute to the valorization of this biomass by studying bioactivities that reveal its potential in the pharmaceutical and/or cosmeceutical industries. Methanol and ethanol extracts and fractions from 15 beach-casts biomass were tested for a range of bioactivities. Eight of the most active samples exhibit IC50 values between 11.38 µg/mL and 19.28 µg/mL and selectivity indexes higher than 3.8, against NCI-H1299 (lung cancer) and T47D (breast cancer). Concerning antiaging potential, all the extracts tested presented UV protection, with SPF values above 30, like the standard sunscreen. Regarding aging-related enzymes, 24 samples were tyrosinase inhibitors exhibiting IC50 values from 9.01 µg/mL to 200.09 µg/mL. Eight extracts inhibited collagenase (IC50 < 248.76 µg/mL), two of them more actively than positive control EDTA (IC50 = 59.26 µg/mL). In addition to UV protection, the cumulative effect of antityrosinase and anticollagenase activities shown by the samples suggest that they may play a significant role in preventing skin photoaging. The results obtained demonstrate the high potential of beach-cast seaweed biomass as sources of cosmetic bioproducts with antiaging effects, and of selective cytotoxic metabolites.

Anti-Photoaging and Anti-Melanogenesis Effects of Fucoidan Isolated from Hizikia fusiforme and Its Underlying Mechanisms.

Previous studies suggested that fucoidan with a molecular weight of 102.67 kDa, isolated from Hizikia fusiforme, possesses strong antioxidant activity. To explore the cosmeceutical potential of fucoidan, its anti-photoaging and anti-melanogenesis effects were evaluated in the present study. The anti-photoaging effect was investigated in ultraviolet (UV) B-irradiated human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells), where fucoidan effectively reduced the intracellular reactive oxygen species level and improved the viability of the UVB-irradiated cells without any cytotoxic effects. Moreover, fucoidan significantly decreased UVB-induced apoptosis in HaCaT cells by regulating the protein expression of Bax, Bcl-xL, PARP, and Caspase-3 in HaCaT cells in a concentration-dependent manner. The anti-melanogenesis effect of fucoidan was evaluated in B16F10 melanoma cells that had been stimulated with alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), and fucoidan treatment remarkably inhibited melanin synthesis in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. Further studies indicated that fucoidan significantly suppressed the expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 and -2 (TRP-1 and-2) in B16F10 cells by down-regulating microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) through regulation of the ERK–MAPK (extracellular signal regulated kinase-mitogen activated protein kinase) pathway. Taken together, these results suggest that fucoidan isolated from H. fusiforme possesses strong anti-photoaging and anti-melanogenesis activities and can be used as an ingredient in the pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries.

Thymocid®, a Standardized Black Cumin (Nigella sativa) Seed Extract, Modulates Collagen Cross-Linking, Collagenase and Elastase Activities, and Melanogenesis in Murine B16F10 Melanoma Cells.

Black cumin (Nigella sativa) seed extract has been shown to improve dermatological conditions, yet its beneficial effects for skin are not fully elucidated. Herein, Thymocid®, a chemically standardized black cumin seed extract, was investigated for its cosmeceutical potential including anti-aging properties associated with modulation of glycation, collagen cross-linking, and collagenase and elastase activities, as well as antimelanogenic effect in murine melanoma B16F10 cells. Thymocid® (50, 100, and 300 µg/mL) inhibited the formation of advanced glycation end-products (by 16.7–70.7%), collagen cross-linking (by 45.1–93.3%), collagenase activity (by 10.4–92.4%), and elastases activities (type I and III by 25.3–75.4% and 36.0–91.1%, respectively). In addition, Thymocid® (2.5–20 µg/mL) decreased melanin content in B16F10 cells by 42.5–61.6% and reduced cellular tyrosinase activity by 20.9% (at 20 µg/mL). Furthermore, Thymocid® (20 µg/mL for 72 h) markedly suppressed the mRNA expression levels of melanogenesis-related genes including microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TYRP1), and TYRP2 to 78.9%, 0.3%, and 0.2%, respectively. Thymocid® (10 µg/mL) also suppressed the protein expression levels of MITF (by 15.2%) and TYRP1 (by 97.7%). Findings from this study support the anti-aging and antimelanogenic potential of Thymocid® as a bioactive cosmeceutical ingredient for skin care products.

Algae Metabolites in Cosmeceutical: An Overview of Current Applications and Challenges.

Cosmetics are widely used by people around the world to protect the skin from external stimuli. Consumer preference towards natural cosmetic products has increased as the synthetic cosmetic products caused adverse side effects and resulted in low absorption rate due to the chemicals’ larger molecular size. The cosmetic industry uses the term “cosmeceutical”, referring to a cosmetic product that is claimed to have medicinal or drug-like benefits. Marine algae have gained tremendous attention in cosmeceuticals. They are one of the richest marine resources considered safe and possessed negligible cytotoxicity effects on humans. Marine algae are rich in bioactive substances that have shown to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, particularly in overcoming rashes, pigmentation, aging, and cancer. The current review provides a detailed survey of the literature on cosmeceutical potentials and applications of algae as skin whitening, anti-aging, anticancer, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial agents. The biological functions of algae and the underlying mechanisms of all these activities are included in this review. In addition, the challenges of using algae in cosmeceutical applications, such as the effectiveness of different extraction methods and processing, quality assurance, and regulations concerning extracts of algae in this sector were also discussed.

Marine-Derived Compounds with Potential Use as Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics.

The cosmetic industry is among the fastest growing industries in the last decade. As the beauty concepts have been revolutionized, many terms have been coined to accompany the innovation of this industry, since the beauty products are not just confined to those that are applied to protect and enhance the appearance of the human body. Consequently, the terms such as cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics have emerged to give a notion of the health benefits of the products that create the beauty from inside to outside. In the past years, natural products-based cosmeceuticals have gained a huge amount of attention not only from researchers but also from the public due to the general belief that they are harmless. Notably, in recent years, the demand for cosmeceuticals from the marine resources has been exponentially on the rise due to their unique chemical and biological properties that are not found in terrestrial resources. Therefore, the present review addresses the importance of marine-derived compounds, stressing new chemical entities with cosmeceutical potential from the marine natural resources and their mechanisms of action by which these compounds exert on the body functions as well as their related health benefits. Marine environments are the most important reservoir of biodiversity that provide biologically active substances whose potential is still to be discovered for application as pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Marine organisms are not only an important renewable source of valuable bulk compounds used in cosmetic industry such as agar and carrageenan, which are used as gelling and thickening agents to increase the viscosity of cosmetic formulations, but also of small molecules such as ectoine (to promote skin hydration), trichodin A (to prevent product alteration caused by microbial contamination), and mytiloxanthin (as a coloring agent). Marine-derived molecules can also function as active ingredients, being the main compounds that determine the function of cosmeceuticals such as anti-tyrosinase (kojic acid), antiacne (sargafuran), whitening (chrysophanol), UV protection (scytonemin, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs)), antioxidants, and anti-wrinkle (astaxanthin and PUFAs).

In vitro screening of elastase, collagenase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase inhibitory and antioxidant activities of 22 halophyte plant extracts for novel cosmeceuticals

BackgroundHalophyte plant (HPs), a salt-resistant flora, has been reported to provide several health benefits, but the knowledge of its cosmeceutical potential is still ambiguous. Here, 70% ethanol extracts of 22 HPs collected from along the coast of South Korea were investigated for their potentials of antioxidant, anti-aging, and whitening properties for use as materials in novel cosmeceuticals.MethodsAntioxidant activities were determined by DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-pricrylhydrazyl) free radical and hydrogen peroxide scavenging assays, and skin aging-related enzyme activities (anti-elastase, anti-collagenase, anti-hyaluronidase, and anti-tyrosinase) were evaluated by using the spectrophotometric method.ResultsAmong the 22 HPs, we found that Ischaemum antephoroides f. coreana and Atriplex gmelinii extracts presented the strongest scavenging effects against DPPH free radical and hydrogen peroxide, respectively. Our finding additionally suggested that Salicornia europaea extract might provide a major source of anti-elastase and anti-hyaluronidase; meanwhile, Rosa rugosa extract showed the highest anti-collagenase effect. Furthermore, the highest tyrosinase inhibitory activity was possessed by Spartina anglica extract.ConclusionThese findings may suggest that halophyte plants showing biological activities may be potent inhibitors of tyrosinase, elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase and could be useful for application in cosmeceuticals.

Chemical Compositions and Anti-Skin-Ageing Activities of Origanum vulgare L. Essential Oil from Tropical and Mediterranean Region.

Origanum vulgare L. has been used as a culinary ingredient worldwide. This study revealed the cosmeceutical potential of O. vulgare essential oil as a skin-ageing retardant. The O. vulgare essential oil from a highland area of a tropical country (HO), obtained by hydrodistillation was investigated and compared to a commercial oil from the Mediterranean region (CO). Their chemical compositions were investigated by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry. Antioxidant activities were investigated by ferric reducing antioxidant power, 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, and ferric thiocyanate assay. Anti-skin-ageing activities were determined by means of collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition. Carvacrol was the major component in both oils, but a higher amount was detected in HO (79.5%) than CO (64.6%). HO possessed comparable radical scavenging activity to CO (IC50 = 1.8 ± 0.8 mg/mL) but significantly higher lipid peroxidation inhibition (38.0 ± 0.8%). Carvacrol was remarked as the major compound responsible for the reducing power of both oils. Interestingly, HO possessed significant superior anti-skin-ageing activity than ascorbic acid (P < 0.01), with inhibition against collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase of 92.0 ± 9.7%, 53.1 ± 13.3%, and 16.7 ± 0.3%, at the concentration of 67, 25, and 4 µg/mL, respectively. Since HO possessed comparable anti-hyaluronidase activity to CO and superior anti-collagenase and anti-elastase (P < 0.01), HO was suggested to be used as a natural skin-ageing retardant in a cosmetic industry.

Watermelon seeds and peels: fatty acid composition and cosmeceutical potential

Watermelon consumption results in generation of organic waste in the form of seeds and peels. We have evaluated the fatty acid profiles and antioxidant content of watermelon (Kinnaree cultivar) seed oil and peel wax. In addition, we assessed the potential use of these watermelon industry byproducts in the development of cosmeceuticals. The most abundant fatty acids in seed oil and peel wax were linoleic acid and arachidic acid, respectively. Fatty acids form an essential component in the cell membranes and have seen increased recognition in the cosmeceutical industry. Antioxidants also play a beneficial role in skincare in combating free-radicals resulting from sun damage and pollutants. The seed oil showed stronger antioxidant activity than the peel wax, as indicated by the DPPH radical scavenging ability of 0.894 mg α-tocopherol equivalent/g dried seeds versus 0.036 mg α-tocopherol equivalent/g dried peels. Therefore, the seed oil was formulated into skincare products, in the form of emulsions and nanoemulsions. The most effective formulae were stable at room temperature for seven days, or following repeated cycles of heating and cooling. This work demonstrates the potential for watermelon seed oil to be employed in skincare product formulations, which could maximize agricultural profit and minimize environmental waste.

Anti-inflammatory and anti-melanogenesis activities of sulfated polysaccharides isolated from Hizikia fusiforme: Short communication

Antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effects of sulfated polysaccharides from Celluclast-assisted extract of Hizikia fusiforme (HFPS) make it a good candidate for exploring its cosmeceutical potential. In order to further explore this premise, the anti-inflammatory and anti-melanogenesis effects of HFPS were studied in the present study. HFPS significantly inhibited nitric oxide (NO) generation and improved the cell viability in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. It also decreased the expression of prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) and pro-inflammatory cytokines, and suppressed the expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. In addition, HFPS also inhibited melanin synthesis in alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells by down-regulating of intracellular levels of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 and -2 (TRP-1 and -2) via inhibiting microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) expression. These results demonstrate that HFPS possesses strong in vitro anti-inflammatory and anti-melanogenesis effects and can be used in the pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries.

Antidiabetic and Cosmeceutical Potential of Common Barbery (Berberis vulgaris L.) Root Bark Extracts Obtained by Optimization of 'Green' Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction.

Berberis vulgaris is rich in berberine, an isoquinoline alkaloid, with antidiabetic activity, often used topically for skin-related problems. The aim of this work was to develop a “green” method for berberine extraction using mixtures of water with glycerol, a non-toxic, environmentally-friendly solvent. Response surface methodology based on Box–Behnken design was used to optimize the experimental conditions for ultrasound-assisted extraction of berberine and anti-radical components from B. vulgaris root bark. The independent variables were temperature (X1), glycerol concentration (X2), and ultrasound power (X3), while the responses were berberine concentration and DPPH radical scavenging activity of the extracts (RSA IC50). The response values of the extracts prepared at optimum conditions were (response, X1, X2, X3): berberine yield (145.5 μg/mL; 80 °C, 50%, 144 W) and RSA IC50 (58.88 μL/mL; 80 °C, 30%, 720 W). The observed values deviated from the predicted values by −3.45% and 6.42% for berberine and RSA IC50, respectively, thus indicating the validity of the selected models. The prepared extracts demonstrated antioxidant, anti-melanogenic, and anti-inflammatory activity, as well excellent α-glucosidase and α-amylase inhibitory activity. The displayed biological properties and lack of glycerol toxicity makes the prepared extracts suitable for direct inclusion into antidiabetic and dermatologic food supplements and topical products.

Polyphenol-Rich Extracts Obtained from Winemaking Waste Streams as Natural Ingredients with Cosmeceutical Potential.

Phenolics present in grapes have been explored as cosmeceutical principles, due to their antioxidant activity and ability to inhibit enzymes relevant for skin ageing. The winemaking process generates large amounts of waste, and the recovery of bioactive compounds from residues and their further incorporation in cosmetics represents a promising market opportunity for wine producers and may contribute to a sustainable development of the sector. The extracts obtained from grape marc and wine lees, using solid–liquid (SL) extraction with and without microwave (MW) pretreatment of the raw material, were characterized in terms of antioxidant activity through chemical (ORAC/HOSC/HORAC) and cell-based (keratinocytes—HaCaT; fibroblasts—HFF) assays. Furthermore, their inhibitory capacity towards specific enzymes involved in skin ageing (elastase; MMP-1; tyrosinase) was evaluated. The total phenolic and anthocyanin contents were determined by colorimetric assays, and HPLC–DAD–MS/MS was performed to identify the main compounds. The MW pretreatment prior to conventional SL extraction led to overall better outcomes. The red wine lees extracts presented the highest phenolic content (3 to 6-fold higher than grape marc extracts) and exhibited the highest antioxidant capacity, being also the most effective inhibitors of elastase, MMP-1 and tyrosinase. The results support that winemaking waste streams are valuable sources of natural ingredients with the potential for cosmeceutical applications.

EFFECT OF GAMMA IRRADIATION ON ANTIOXIDANT POTENTIAL AND BIOACTIVES OF A COSMECEUTICALLY SIGNIFICANT CHLORELLA EMERSONII KJ725233

Objective : Gamma radiation induces free radicals with a corresponding alteration in the cell’s antioxidant defense system. The present study thus aimed at determining the role of gamma irradiation in improving the cosmeceutical potential of CEK in terms of antioxidants.&#x0D; Methods : C.emersonii KJ725233 was subjected to low (100 Gy) and high (1000 Gy) gamma irradiation doses and its effect on the chlorophyll content was evaluated. The quantitative alterations in the antioxidant content of CEK were evaluated by phosphomolybdenum assay (TAC), ferric reducing antioxidant potential (FRAP), 2, 2 - Dipheny-1-picryl hydrazyl radical scavenging assay (DPPH), total phenolic (TPC) and total flavonoid content (TFC). Also, the corresponding qualitative alterations in the bioactives of CEK were determined by GC-HRMS analysis. &#x0D; Results : A 179.57±2.55% increase in the total chlorophyll content alongwith a 71.76±2.96%, 32.08±2.16%, 11.67±0.89%, 42.85±8.0% and 31.37±3.18% increase was observed in the TAC, FRAP, DPPH radical scavenging, TPC and TFC was observed in CEK irradiated at 1000 Gy. GC-HRMS analysis revealed the induction of Vitamin E on irradiation at both the doses with a corresponding decrease in the phytol content whereas 100 Gy stimulated the induction of phytosterols.&#x0D; Conclusion : The potent intrinsic antioxidant activity of cosmeceutically significant CEK can be elevated with the induction of the most sought after antioxidant in cosmetology – Vitamin E on irradiation.

Kojic acid production from rice by Amylomyces rouxii TISTR 3182 and Aspergillus oryzae TISTR 3259 and its cosmeceutical potential

Kojic acid production from rice by Amylomyces rouxii TISTR 3182 and Aspergillus oryzae TISTR 3259 and its cosmeceutical potential

Ultrasound‐assisted extraction of sulfated polysaccharide from Nizamuddinia zanardinii: Process optimization, structural characterization, and biological properties

AbstractSingle‐factor experiment and Box‐Behnken design were used to evaluate and optimize the effect of extraction time (40, 50, and 60 min), ultrasonic power (100, 150, and 200 W), water‐solid ratio (60, 70, and 80 mL/g), and extraction temperature (70, 80, and 90 °C) on the recovery of fucoidan from Nizamuddinia zanardinii by ultrasound‐assisted extraction method (UAE). The optimal extraction conditions were as follows: extraction time of 58 min, ultrasonic power of 196 W, water‐to‐raw‐material ratio of 80 mL/g, and extraction temperature of 70 °C. Under these conditions, the polysaccharide yield was 3.51%. Extracted fucoidan was composed of fucose (32.33%), galactose (29.95%), mannose (27.97%), xylose (6.56%), and glucose (3.19%). The UAE‐extracted fucoidan had appreciable DPPH radical scavenging and reducing power. The fucoidan exhibited notable cell growth inhibition against HeLa (62.36%) and HepG2 (56.83%) cancer cell lines, and induced RAW264.7 murine macrophage cells to release considerable amount of nitric oxide (41 μmol).Practical applicationsSeaweeds are rich sources of diverse bioactive compounds with valuable nutraceutical, pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical potentials. Nizamuddinia zanardinii is a marine brown seaweed and belong to Sargassaceae family. Iranian South Coasts have abundant supply of N. zanardinii which has a great potential for mariculture and can be utilized as a source of natural compounds. Fucoidan, which is a sulfated polysaccharide found in brown seaweeds, have shown promising health benefits for humans. In this study, the effects of extraction time, ultrasonic power, water–solid ratio, and extraction temperature were investigated on yield, structural, molecular, and biological properties of ultrasound extracted fucoidan. This study provides a practical and effective instruction into the application of ultrasound in the extraction of fucoidan. Additionally, the ultrasound extracted fucoidan exhibited appreciable antioxidant, anticancer, and macrophage‐stimulating capacity indicating its potential value for health and food industry.

Beneficial Effects of Marine Algae-Derived Carbohydrates for Skin Health.

Marine algae are considered to be an abundant sources of bioactive compounds with cosmeceutical potential. Recently, a great deal of interest has focused on the health-promoting effects of marine bioactive compounds. Carbohydrates are the major and abundant constituent of marine algae and have been utilized in cosmetic formulations, as moisturizing and thickening agents for example. In addition, marine carbohydrates have been suggested as promising bioactive biomaterials for their various properties beneficial to skin, including antioxidant, anti-melanogenic and skin anti-aging properties. Therefore, marine algae carbohydrates have potential skin health benefits for value-added cosmeceutical applications. The present review focuses on the various biological capacities and potential skin health benefits of bioactive marine carbohydrates.

Cosmeceutical potential of geranium and calendula essential oil: Determination of antioxidant activity and in vitro sun protection factor.

The present investigation was aimed to find out the sun protection factor (SPF) and antioxidant potential of geranium essential oil (GEO) and calendula essential oil (CEO) because having a combination of these two properties moves up the oils as an active ingredient of various cosmeceutical formulations for their preventive and protective properties. Essential oils were obtained by hydrodistillation of Pelargonium graveolens leaves (GEO) and Calendula officinalis flowers (CEO). The composition and identification of chemical constituents of oils were determined by GCMS analysis. Free radical scavenging activity was measured by nitric oxide scavenging activity and 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity. It was observed that both GEO and CEO have the potential to reduce or prevent oxidative stress and can be used in skin care regimen to slow down skin aging via its antioxidant properties. In vitro SPF was determined by a very simple and rapid spectroscopic method. SPF value of GEO and CEO was found to 6.45 and 8.36, respectively. The SPF of CEO was higher than GEO, and the results of SPF show that these essential oils can be employed in sunscreen formulations to protect the skin from sunburn. From the results, it can be concluded that the combined antioxidant and SPF property of GEO and CEO can provide synergistic photoprotective effect or lift up the additional value of the cosmeceutical formulation.

Evaluation of the Nutraceutical and Cosmeceutical Potential of Two Cultivars of Rubus fruticosus L. under Different Cultivation Conditions.

The starting point for the development of new, functional products derived from Rubus fruticosus L. is to determine the optimal cultivation conditions that produce maximal yield of fruits containing desirable bioactive properties. Towards that goal, the effect of soil, soil/peat mixture and light intensity on the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical potential of two cultivars ('Thornfree' and 'Loch Ness') of Rubus fruticosus L. were evaluated. The assessment was carried out employing a range of methods for evaluating fruit properties associated with promoting good health such as total antioxidant capacity, secondary metabolites content (vitamin C, polyphenols, flavonoids and anthocyanins) and inhibition analysis of skin-regulating enzymes. 'Thornfree' cultivar produced fruits in all light conditions, while 'Loch Ness' did not produce fruits in low light conditions. The results showed that in Rubus fruticosus L. fruit, the chemical composition and bioactivity are strongly affected by both genetics factors and growing conditions. Extract from 'Thornfree' fruits obtained under low light and soil/peat conditions displayed superior properties such as high antioxidant capacity, high concentrations of phenolics, flavonoids and anthocyanins and high inhibitory potency towards the enzymes tyrosinase and elastase. This extract was used for the development of a topical skin care cream with excellent compatibility and stability. Our findings conclude that Rubus fruticosus L. cultivation may be efficiently and effectively manipulated through conventional cultivation techniques to produce promising bioactive ingredients with potential use in commercial cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

Non-Targeted Secondary Metabolite Profile Study for Deciphering the Cosmeceutical Potential of Red Marine Macro Alga Jania rubens—An LCMS-Based Approach

This study aims to unveil the cosmeceutical traits of Jania rubens by highlighting its mineral composition, antioxidant potential, and presence of bioactive molecules using non-targeted metabolite profiling. This study showed that among minerals, (macro), Ca (14790.33 + 1.46 mg/100 g dry weight (DW)) and in (micro) Fe (84.93 + 0.89 mg/100 g DW) was the highest. A total of 23 putative metabolites in the +ESI (Electrospray Ionization) mode of LCMS-TOF (Liquid Chromatography Mass Spectrometry-Time of Flight) were detected. Two anthocyanins—malonylshisonin and 4′′′-demalonylsalvianin (m/z 825.19; anti-aging, antioxidant, anticancer properties) were detected. Two flavonoids, viz, medicocarpin and agecorynin C, 4′-O-methylglucoliquiritigenin—a flavonoid-7-O-glycoside, and 5,6,7,8,3′,4′,5′-heptamethoxyflavone, a polymethoxygenated flavone (m/z 415.15), were detected. Maclurin 3-C-(2″,3″,6″-trigalloylglucoside) (m/z 863.15) (antioxidant, antimicrobial and anticancer traits) and theaflavonin (m/z 919.18), belonging to the class of theaflavins (whitening and anti-wrinkle agent), were obtained. Pharmacologically active metabolites like berberrubin (m/z 305.1; antitumor activity), icaceine (m/z 358.24; anticonvulsant properties), agnuside (m/z 449.15; constituent for treatment of premenstrual syndrome), γ-coniceine (m/z 108.12; formulations to treat breast cancer), eremopetasitenin B2, and eremosulphoxinolide A (m/z 447.18; therapeutic effect of allergy and asthma) were observed. 6-O-Methylarmillaridin (m/z 445.18) (antimicrobial and antifungal) and simmondsin 2-ferulate, (m/z 534.21) (insecticidal, antifungal and antifeedant) were detected. Aromatic lignans, viz, 8-Acetoxy-4′-methoxypinoresinol, sesartemin, and cubebinone (m/z 413.16), in addition to an aromatic terpene glycoside, tsangane L3 glucoside (m/z 357.23), were detected. Zizybeoside I, benzyl gentiobioside, and trichocarposide were also detected. The determination of antioxidant potential was performed through assays such as like DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl), FRAP (Ferric Ion Reducing Antioxidant Power), ABTS (2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenz-thiazoline-6-sulfonic acid)), and total antioxidants. Therefore, this study progresses the probability for the inclusion of J. rubens as an ingredient in modern day cosmetic formulations.

Algal bioactive compounds in the cosmeceutical industry: a review

:The term cosmeceutical is derived from a combination of ‘cosmetic’ and ‘pharmaceutical’, and indicates that active ingredients are present in a specific cosmetic product. These cosmeceuticals or cosmetic products have ingredients with medical or drug-like benefits. They are formulated to increase positive physiological effects at the cellular level in addition to enhancing the skin's appearance. Cosmeceutical applications using algae are rapidly growing because of increasing demands from customers. The basic premise is that novel bioactive substances from natural sources are safer and equally or more efficacious than artificial substances. These compounds should have highly effective and stable properties for therapeutic use with low potential toxicity. Recently, marine organisms have been demonstrated as rich sources of structurally diverse, biologically active compounds with extensive cosmeceutical potential. Numerous compounds have been isolated from marine organisms, and these compounds have various purported cosmeceutical activities including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiallergenic, antiaging and antiwrinkling effects, and ultraviolet protection. This review is focused on algal natural products and their potential for development of cosmeceuticals from novel and potent phytochemical compounds.