Twill Fabrics Research Articles

Theoretical estimation of structural parameters in 2/2 twill woven structures

It has been shown through various experimental works that the geometry of woven fabrics will change after it is released from looms due to the contraction forces resulting in changed structural geometry in their fully relaxed state. In this work, an appropriate three dimensional unit cell is proposed for 2/2 twill woven structure. The proposed model covers all angles and lengths between warp and weft yarns in the three dimensional unit cell of the structure in its fully relaxed state assuming straight line path and circular cross-section of yarns. At first, a theoretical solution for estimation of skewness angle in float region of 2/2 twill fabrics is proposed by defining the JJ ratio index to consider different amount of contraction in float and crimp region of unit cell. Then the proposed theory is extended to include the weave and skewness angle of yarns in crimp region of woven structures. By applying this theory, the skewness angle of 2/2 twill weaves will be incorporated in structural modelling of woven fabrics which can be used in predicting the thickness and areal mass of the 2/2 twill woven structures. Besides the confirmed validation of model in predicting the areal mass, the results for estimating the thickness of fabrics are in close agreement with the measured ones in the fabrics with worsted and coarse cotton yarns.

Packing and permeability properties of E-glass fibre reinforcements functionalised with capsules for self-healing applications

In the framework of the development of capsule-based self-healing composites, this work investigates whether the capsules containing self-healing agents, dispersed on dry glass fibre reinforcements, influence their packing and longitudinal and transverse permeability properties. Solvent-filled urea–formaldehyde capsules have been produced and their morphology and thermal behaviour characterised for self-healing applications. Glass woven 2×2 twill fabrics were functionalised with capsules spread by manual sieving. Packing and permeability measurements were performed as a function of capsule content. Of practical interest for further manufacturing of self-healing composites by vacuum-assisted resin infusion moulding, the presence of capsules in the range of 125–250μm diameter was found to modify the compression response, leading to higher total porosity for a given applied pressure, from 0.5 to 0.55 with capsules at 1bar. The longitudinal permeability was multiplied by a factor of about 6, whereas the transverse permeability was not affected.

Effect of processing and wearing on viscoelastic modeling of polylactide/wool and polyester/wool woven fabrics subjected to bursting

Polyester fibers (PET) are greatly used in textiles but depend on fossil fuel resources. Poly-(lactic acid) (PLA) is an aliphatic polyester that can be derived from 100% renewable resources. The load–extension plot of a polylactide fiber seems to be especially compatible with that of wool. Consequently polyester/wool 55/45 and polylactide/wool 55/45 yarns were spun using the Sirospun process and plain and twill woven fabrics were industrially produced. Washed and heat set fabrics were subjected to a conventional process of dyeing and decatizing. Fabrics were gradually worn by abrasion using a Martindale wear and abrasion tester. Using the bursting strength test, the viscoelastic behavior of the fabrics when multidirectional extended was simulated and modeled using a modified non-linear Maxwell model. The three steps of fiber decrimping and orientation, fiber stretching and maximum yield and breaking were analyzed. PET/wool fabrics show a more linear behavior than PLA/wool ones and the influence of weave, finishing and wearing on the viscoelastic behavior of PLA/wool fabrics were highly relevant when compared with that on PET/wool ones. It seems that when blended with PET, wool develops its felting effect during finishing and wearing, while when blended with PLA, the felting effect of wool is hardly developed due to the lower resistance of PLA to hydrolysis and its lower thermal stability. PLA fiber properties need to be improved probably through the development of new L-D lactide (PLDLA) copolymers of different ratios between components and molecular weights to reach the optimal desirable properties for the fiber.

A comparative study on seam performance of cotton and polyester woven fabrics

This paper presents and compares the seam performance of 12 woven fabrics by means of seam strength, seam efficiency, seam pucker, seam slippage properties, and visual observations. Besides, seam profiles were prepared by using normalized values. Test fabrics, suitable for clothing and lining, having cotton and polyester fibers in content and woven systematically in weft setting and weave structure were utilized and sewn by two different sewing threads. All the evaluations were conducted in terms of weave, weft setting, and sewing thread separately. Experimental results reveal that the cotton fabrics sewn with any kind of sewing thread have similar seam efficiency values. The fabrics stitched with corespun polyester sewing thread show higher seam efficiency values. Despite this, low seam efficiency values were obtained for the polyester fabrics. Seam slippage of 6 mm is over 200 N tensile load for the cotton fabrics. In the case of the polyester fabrics, it is difficult to determine seam slippage because of breakage of the yarns and the sewing threads and stripping problems close to seam line. Especially for polyester fabrics, worse seam pucker properties have been observed as compared with the ones stitched with mercerized cotton sewing thread. Generally, twill fabrics show lower seam pucker values for all types of the test fabrics.

The comparison of differences in flammability and thermal degradation between cotton fabrics treated with phosphoramidate derivatives

The effectiveness of a phosphoramidate tetraethyl piperazine‐1,4‐diyldiphosphoramidate (TEPP) as a flame retardant on cotton twill fabrics was compared with that of a previously studied diethyl 4‐methylpiperazin‐1‐ylphosphoramidate (DEPP). TEPP was formed in a reaction between two phosphonates and a piperazine then cotton twill fabrics were treated with TEPP at different levels of add‐on (2–19 wt%) and characterized using vertical flammability, limiting oxygen index, microscale combustion calorimetry, and thermogravimetric analysis methods. The results showed better flame retardancy and thermal behavior for TEPP fabrics when compared with DEPP fabrics. When the morphological structure of the formed char from the burned areas was examined by scanning electron microscopy, the results revealed a fairly insignificant difference in the mode of action between the two types of fabric. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Virtual metal model for fast computation of shielding effectiveness of blended electromagnetic interference shielding fabric

Blended electromagnetic interference (EMI) shielding fabric has an important application in the EMI shielding fields, but its shielding effectiveness (SE) computation remained unsolved. This study proposes a fast computation method which builds a virtual metal model according to fabric structure parameters to calculate the SE of the EMI shielding fabric. The above analysis involves the calculation of metal fiber content per unit volume of the EMI shielding fabric according to the structure of the fabric, followed by construction of a virtual metal model and computation of its thickness. Then a relation between the SE of the EMI shielding fabric and the SE of the virtual metal model is explored. A conversion coefficient of the SE computation of plain, twill and satin weave fabric is determined by experiments. A fast computation of the SE based on the virtual metal model is built. After a number of experiments, results show that the relative error is low and the computation is fast and is satisfied for the normal blended EMI shielding fabrics.

Fire Self-Extinguishing Cotton Fabric: Development of Piperazine Derivatives Containing Phosphorous-Sulfur-Nitrogen and Their Flame Retardant and Thermal Behaviors

Recent studies have shown interest in flame retardants containing phosphorus, nitrogen and sulfur a combination small molecule with a promising new approach in preparing an important class of flame retardant materials. Tetraethyl piperazine-1,4-diyldiphosphonate (TEPP) and O,O,O’,O’- tetramethyl piperazine-1,4-diyldiphosphonothioate (TMPT), based on Piperazine derivatives, were prepared successfully and their structures were proved by means of 1H, 13C and 31P NMR. Cotton twill fabric was treated with both compounds to provide different add-on levels. Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA), microscale combustion calorimeter (MCC), vertical and 45° flame test and limiting oxygen index (LOI) were performed on the treated cotton fabrics and showed promising results. When the treated twill fabrics (5 wt% - 7 wt% add-ons) were tested using the vertical flammability test (ASTMD6413-11), we observed that the ignited fabrics self extinguished and left behind a streak of char. Limiting oxygen index (LOI, ASTM 2863-09) was utilized to determine the effectiveness of the flame retardant on the treated fabrics. LOI values increased from 18 vol% oxygen in nitrogen for untreated twill fabric to a maximum of 30 vol% for the highest add-on of twill. Furthermore, Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM), Attenuated Total Reflection-Infrared (ATR-IR), and Thermogravimetric Analysis-Fourier Transform Infrared (TGA-FTIR) spectroscopy were employed to characterize the chemical structure on the treated fabrics, as well as, the surface morphology of char areas of treated and untreated fabrics. Additionally, analysis of the release gas products by TGA-FTIR shows some distinctive detail in the degradation of the treated fabrics during the burning process.

Investigation of electrical, electromagnetic shielding, and usage properties of woven fabrics made from different hybrid yarns containing stainless steel wires

This paper reports the results of a detailed study about specific properties of hybrid yarns and woven fabrics containing those yarns. For this aim, the fabrication procedures and physical properties of acrylic/stainless steel (SS) and cotton/acrylic/SS ply yarns were presented, and then, relations between those and electrical, electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE) and some usage properties of woven hybrid fabrics made from those with different constructions were investigated. EMSE of plain and twill fabrics were evaluated against radiating electromagnetic wave spectrum over a frequency 0–3000 MHz. A comparison of physical properties of yarns regarding wire diameter and the use properties of fabrics regarding weave type, wire diameter, and yarn type measured were presented. The functional textile products of complex applications can be achieved with low cost, easily since those yarns and fabrics were produced on conventional textile manufacturing machines with small modifications. The present study indicated that use of SS wire-based yarns in fabrics significantly increased the air permeability, pilling resistance, thermal resistance, and the flexural rigidity of hybrid fabrics. The plain weave fabrics exhibited higher EMSE values over 20 dB in higher frequencies and higher thermal absorbtivity values compared to twill fabrics.

Effect of laundering on visible damage to apparel fabric caused by sharp force impact

Sharp force violence is a common way of committing assault in numerous countries and regions around the world. When a stabbing occurs, the clothing worn by the victim may provide vital evidence: for example the weapon used to stab the victim may be identified from severance in the clothing. However, whether laundering the clothing after an attack affects the severance morphology of the fabric and fibres, and whether identification of the weapon is possible from the severance in the clothing after laundering is not known. This study focussed on the effect of laundering 100% cotton twill weave (drill) and single jersey (knit) fabrics. Specimens had been pre-treated and stabbed with either a kitchen knife or a Phillips screwdriver. These specimens were photographed and were again laundered for one wash cycle before being photographed again. Ten expert judges compared the photographs taken before and after laundering. A difference in the appearance of the fabrics before and after laundering was evident. The morphology of the fabric and fibres thus would be expected to differ after laundering the clothing, making identification of a weapon used to stab through clothing more difficult.

Effect of Fabric Weave Geometry and Strand Orientation on Mode I Interlaminar Toughness of Glass-Epoxy Laminates

nterlaminar toughness of glass-epoxy laminates subjected to Mode I quasi static loading was investigated. The influence of reinforcement geometry on GIc was focused. Six different laminates reinforced with INTERGLAS 2/2 twill fabrics of three different areal densities and two strand orientations, θ, were tested. The considered fabric areal densities were 390g/m2, 280g/m2 and 163g/m2, and strand orientations θ=0°/90° and θ=±45°. For laminates with θ=±45° strand orientation a statistically significant difference in the means of the interlaminar toughness GIc was noticed for all three laminates i.e. reinforced with the fabrics of areal densities 163 g/m2 and 280 g/m2, and 390 g/m2. For laminates with strand orientation θ=0°/90° a significant difference in Gic means was noticed for laminates with fabrics of areal densities 163 g/m2 and 280 g/m2, and 280 g/m2 and 390 g/m2, only. For groups of laminates reinforced with a particular fabric type a statistically significant difference in the means of GIc was found each time when laminates differed in the strand arrangement θ regardless the way the GIc values were calculated. Fracture analysis done with the help of a SEM did not explained the observed differences in GIc values.

Effects of Auxiliaries on the Indigo Blue Dyeing Performance

The 100% cotton twill fabrics were dyed by indigo blue leuco solutions that containing indigo blue (5 gdm-3) sodium hydroxide (8gdm-3) sodium dithionite (12 gdm-3) and auxiliaries (1 gdm-3), the auxiliaries used are dispersing agent NNOleveling agent Peregal O-25alkali resistant penetrant SDR and color deepening penetrant DP individually. The properties of auxiliarys solutions and the performance of dyed fabrics were tested and measured, the results shown that the color yield of indigo blue dyeing with DP increased by 15% compared to the others, its washingrubbing fastness also improved.

Study on Light Fastness of Natural Yellow Silk Fabric

In this paper, the light fastness and glossiness of natural yellow silk fabric were analyzed. The test items included the mechanical property, light color fastness, perspiration color fastness, and rubbing color fastness. The relation between the glossiness and different specification of the silk fabric was discussed. Finally, the glossiness of fabric with different degumming rate was observed. The experimental results reveal that the fracture strength of fabric reduces significantly. The fabrics light fastness runs up to 1~2 degree, perspiration color fastness can reach 5 degree as well as rubbing color fastness. For the 8/5 satin fabric, the glossiness is low. Glossiness of the plain weave is less than the one of the twill fabric. After 48h lighting, the glossiness decreases while the reflectivity increases. When the lighting time increases from 48h to 96h, the glossiness increases gradually. After degumming finishing, glossiness of the fabric decreases, while the reflectivity increases. The fabric can achieve a relatively fine glossiness at degumming rate of 17.34%.

Effects of fibre content and textile structure on dynamic-mechanical and shape-memory properties of ELO/flax biocomposites

Biocomposites were prepared using epoxidized linseed oil and flax fibre reinforcements in different assemblies. Epoxidized linseed oil was cured by two different anhydrides to check how its thermomechanical properties can be influenced. As reinforcements, nonwoven mat, twill weave and quasi-unidirectional textile fabrics with two different yarn finenesses were used. Their reinforcing effect was determined using dynamic mechanical analysis in flexure. Dynamic mechanical analysis served to determine the glass transition temperature ( Tg) also. Shape-memory properties were derived from quasi-unconstrained flexural tests performed near to the Tg of the epoxidized linseed oil and its biocomposites. Flax reinforcement reduced the Tg that was attributed to off-stoichiometry owing to chemical reaction between the hydroxyl groups of flax and anhydride hardener. The shape-memory parameters were moderate or low. They were affected by both textile content and type.

17세기 한국 능(綾)직물 연구

This study studies the fabrics from excavated 17th century tombs of Mrs. Min from Yeoheung family(1586~1656), Yeo-on Kim(1596~1665) and Won-rip Choi(1618~1690) and attempts to clarify the relationship between the fashion trend in fabrics of those times and the background behind it by viewing and examining the proportion of twill fabrics to the total silk fabrics and the characteristics of its weave and patterns. Looking into fabrics from the above tombs, twill fabrics accounted for 10.4%(13 pieces) 19.3%(16 pieces) and 9.2%(9 pieces) of total silk fabrics in each of the respective tombs. This forms a remarkable contrast with the fact that there was only one piece of twill silk fabrics(0.5%) and not any from the 16th century tombs of Mrs. Yoon from Papyeong family (0.5%) and Soo-ryoon Sim(0%). In particular, the percentage of hwamun-neung(patterned twill fabrics) in each of the tombs is 8.0%(10 pieces), 13.3%(11 pieces), 9.2%(9 pieces), which is much higher than that of non-patterned one. This is common to the twill fabrics from above three 17th century tombs. Patterns of hwamun-neung(patterned twill), simplified small flower patterns or geometrical figures, from the three excavated tombs are mostly arranged sporadically with blank space. It is supposed that these figurative characteristics reflected the aesthetic sense of the gentry at that time which valued simplicity and moderation for their Confucian standard. This phenomenon of increased use and production of twill fabrics in the 17th century resulted from different factors such as wars like Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598), economic difficulty, government regulations against the production of high-class fabrics, development of weaving skill and its fixation, changes of fabric production environments, and changes of aesthetic sense preferring naive and moderate things to showy ones. As for the weaving characteristics of twill fabrics from the three 17th century tombs 3 leaf warp-faced twill was often used for the ground texture and 4 leaf warp-faced one was occasionally used. For pattern texture 6 leaf weft-faced twill was frequently used, 4 leaf weft-faced twill and 3 leaf weft-faced twill were used at times, and floating one was occasionally used as well.

Kinetics and modeling of curing behavior for two different prepregs based on the same epoxy precursor: A case study for the industrial design of thick composites

The industrial production of a thick part obtained by hand lay‐up of two commercial prepregs (≈35 mm) and intended for primary structural application is considered. Prepregs are made of either unidirectionally aligned fibers, PP‐UD, or 2 × 2 twill woven fabric, PP‐T2. While the resin is exactly the same, the prepreg production technology is different, namely, hot melt and solvent impregnation, respectively. The study shows that the prepregs age differently in the time span required for the process work up. Moreover, simulation of the independent curing process of each raw material shows unexpected differences both in the timescale (PP‐UD reacts faster than PP‐T2) and in the extent of reaction (PP‐UD develops a higher amount of heat than PP‐T2). The outlined differences require a particular care in the design of the curing cycle for production of thick composites where sequences of different prepregs alternate with no necessarily regular pattern, in order to reduce overheating, and to promote equal reaction of the two components without inducing too much residual stress between adjacent layers. This work shows that the experimental verification of raw materials and curing conditions might help identifying unforeseen industrial critical situations and avoiding the lack of performance in the final composite materials. POLYM. COMPOS., 34:1506–1514, 2013. © 2013 Society of Plastics Engineers

Study on Moisture Transfer Properties of Polyester-Cotton Fabric

In this paper, moisture transfer properties were studied on different weave structure and different weft of polyester-cotton fabric. Under the same conditions, the moisture absorption rates and permeability rates were measured on the different weft of plain weave, satin weave, twill fabrics. The influence law of the fabric density and structure on moisture absorption and permeability of polyester-cotton fabric were concluded. The results showed that under the same temperature and humidity conditions, the moisture absorption rates and permeability rates of the fabrics were both increased with the weft decreased. Moisture absorption rates and permeability rates of the plain weave fabrics were minimum, which of the satin weave fabrics were maximum, of the twill fabrics were moderate.

Improvement in the fracture toughness (Mode I) of laminated glass fabric composites through air-jet texturing

Delamination is the most common failure mode in laminated composites due to the reduced strength in the through-the-thickness direction. Air-jet texturing was used to provide more surface contact between the fibres and the resin by producing bulk and loops in the yarn. The development and characterization of core-and-effect textured glass yarns and the effect of texturing on the mechanical properties of laminated composites were presented in the previous papers. This paper describes the effect of texturing on the inter-laminar fracture toughness (Mode I) of glass laminated composites. The composites of twill weave fabrics were developed from both the textured and non-textured yarn and fracture toughness is tested in warp and weft directions. Significant improvement was observed in the Mode I fracture toughness of the composites after texturing. The bulkier, loopy structure of the textured yarn provided more surface contact between the fibre and the resin and significantly improved the bonding strength.

Structural Effect of Phosphoramidate Derivatives on the Thermal and Flame Retardant Behaviors of Treated Cotton Cellulose

The present research is aimed at studying the structural effect of two phosphoramidate derivatives diethyl 3-hydroxypropylphosphoramidate EHP and dimethyl 3-hydroxypropylphosphoramidate MHP as flame retardants for cotton fabric. EHP and MHP were obtained in very high yield and purity by one step procedures. Cotton twill fabrics treated with the two compounds at different add-ons (5–20 wt %) were characterized. Vertical flammability, limiting oxygen index, thermogravimetric, and microscale combustion calorimeter analyses were performed, and all resulted in better flame retardancy and thermal behavior for MHP compared to EHP. A study of the functional groups which appeared on the treated fabrics by attenuated total reflection infrared spectroscopy revealed different binding mechanisms between each compound and cotton cellulose. Analysis of the released gas products by thermogravimetric analysis-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy showed some distinctive details in the degradation of the treated fabrics during the burning process.

Taguchi analysis of fabric shrinkage

This article reports on the effects of fabric constructional factors such as fabric sett, warp tension, back rest position, and pick insertion rate, on the warp-way and weft-way shrinkages of a three-up-one-down twill woven fabric using a Taguchi design of experiments. It was observed that the fabric shrinkage in the warp direction was mostly affected by the change in the number of picks per inch, followed by warp tension, number of ends per inch, number of picks per minute, and back rest position, respectively. The fabric shrinkage in the weft direction was found to be mostly affected by the change in number of ends per inch, followed by number of picks per inch, back rest position, number of picks per minute, respectively and least affected by warp tension. It was observed that the aforesaid five factors were able to explain 99.02 % and 82.81 % of the total variation of fabric shrinkage in the warp and weft directions, respectively.

Development of a test equipment for pesticide protective fabric evaluation and studies on simple cotton woven fabrics

In this study, efforts were taken to identify the most suitable cotton fabric with commonly used structure to be used as protective fabric by the pesticide applicators in the tropical regions, specifically at the time of spraying in the field. As the situation demanded the generation and use of pesticide-borne air for the evaluation of cotton fabrics considered in the study, a test equipment with appropriate features was developed and used. The study revealed that twill fabrics of medium weight construction provide better protection than plain fabrics, especially when they are produced with coarser yarns to achieve the required fabric weight. They are found to give enhanced protection when they are subjected to raising operation. Fabric raised on both the sides performs better than the face side raised fabric. On the contrary, these fabrics in raised or unraised state are found to slightly go down in their performance when they are wet and their performance decreases with increase in wetness. Hence, it is suggested that use of raised fabrics may be avoided for the preparation of pesticide protective clothing as the pesticide applicators are bound to sweat at the time of spraying. As the unraised fabrics give comparatively lower performance reduction on wetting, it can be recommended for the pesticide applicators with the instruction to change the clothing when it become wet to ensure protection.