Design Fabrication Research Articles

Contemporary Textile Design Creation Sourced from Visual Aesthetics of Kawung Motif Classical Batik

Contemporary Textile Design Creation Sourced from Visual Aesthetics of Kawung Motif Classical Batik

Rapid simulation of knitted fabrics based on a ribbon yarn model

In the study, an innovative three-dimensional ribbon-based yarn model simulation technique is introduced, aimed at significantly enhancing the realism and speed of knitted fabric simulation through efficient model construction and rendering processes. The method successfully overcomes the limitations of traditional two-dimensional loop models and tubular yarn models, accurately capturing the textural details of knitted fabrics with a vivid three-dimensional representation. Experimental results demonstrate the outstanding performance of this simulation system in simulating the fuzz effects of yarn and in processing speed. This technology offers significant potential in textile design and production, notably in boosting design efficiency and accelerating new product development. By employing low-cost image capture methods, the study effectively reduces technical and financial barriers in knitted fabric simulation, enhancing its practical and industrial applicability.

Creativity in textile printing design: An integrative framework in design education

AbstractCreators, creation, and audience are the main pillars of the creative process. This study offers an integrative vision that includes the three main components of the creative process by proposing a seven-stage creativity framework in design education. To bridge the gap between theory and practice, the proposed framework was applied in a major textile design course at Damietta University in Egypt. The paper includes two questionnaire models for the recipients to evaluate the creative outputs and for the students to evaluate the applied framework in general. The study involves an analysis of the experiences and challenges encountered throughout the field application of the proposed framework. The results revealed new dimensions for evaluating creativity and fresh perspectives on the dynamics of the communication process between creators and recipients through their creations/designs. The study's findings could contribute to promoting creativity across the three pillars and advancing design thinking and design education.

Poland in Blue: The Phenomenon of the Denim Clothing Industry in Polish Society During the Socialistic Period

In the People’s Republic of Poland 1 , blue jeans were much more than just an element of clothing. They have become a symbol of freedom, a generational rebellion, and an aspiration for the world on the other side of the Iron Curtain. Aid parcels sent by relatives, mainly from the USA and also from Great Britain, Canada, and Australia played a significant role in getting to know denim clothing in socialist Poland. In the second half of the 1960s, the domestic production of substitute denim-like materials 2 , including denim-like trousers, was started. They were a response to the demand, in particular, of groups of young people for products made of this type of material. The new improvements and material inventions were supervised by the association of clothing industries and research laboratories, which played an essential role in the creation of materials for domestic production (Kortan 1981). A group of active Polish textile and fashion designers contributed to promote comfortable denim clothing from the West. This article presents the role of the denim clothing industry in Poland during the socialist period (1952–1989), considering the cultural context and the impact of this clothing on discovering alternative forms, replacing the originals from capitalist countries. It should be noted that in the People’s Republic of Poland, new types of textile materials were developed and improved so that they corresponded, at least in part, to materials from the West and filled in product gaps. To this end, proprietary commercial versions of fabrics used to produce garments, including the jeans discussed in this publication, were made of a textile known as in Polish word “Teksas” a denim substitute. Researching archival materials and showing achievements in the field of textiles and fashion fills the gap in research on cultural significance of fashion, textile materials and the production of denim and clothing from domestic fabrics of the socialist era.

Exploration of floral motifs for modular textile and apparel design

Exploration of floral motifs for modular textile and apparel design

Sustainable Oily Liquid-Proof Passive Cooling (SOC) Textile for Personal Thermal Management.

Sweat passive-cooling textiles with asymmetric wettabilities on different sides offer an effective and low-energy consumption solution to personal thermal management in extreme thermal environments. However, the sweat-wicking and the cooling abilities decrease when the textile is contaminated by low-surface tension oily liquid fouling. The integration of anti-oily liquid fouling and sweat-wicking abilities on textile involves resolving the contradiction between hydrophilic and oleophobic properties and seeking eco-friendly short-chain fluorides to reduce the surface energy. Herein, a sustainable oily liquid-proof passive cooling (SOC) textile for personal thermal management is proposed. The SOC textile is obtained by applying a fluoride-free hydrophobic coating layer to one side of the high thermal conductive superoleophobic/superhydrophilic basal textile, which is fabricated using eco-friendly short-chain fluoride. The SOC textile preserves the anti-oily liquid fouling property even after 2000 abrasion cycles. Experimental test revealed that the SOC textile exhibits a cooling effect of ≈5°C compared with the cotton textile, and the up to 70% reduction in sweating rate under the constant metabolic heat production rates. The configuration of the SOC textile would inspire the future design of intelligent textiles for personal thermal management, and the proposed strategy have implications for fabrication of eco-friendly oil-water separation materials.

지속가능성을 위한 텍스타일디자인 산업의 도전과 혁신사례 연구

This study aims to systematically analyze the challenges and innovative cases for implementing sustainability in the textile design industry. The textile design industry plays a significant role in the global economy but also causes problems such as environmental pollution, resource waste, and social inequality due to large-scale production and consumption. This study presents various approaches to solve these problems and seeks strategic approaches for the sustainable development of the industry. From an environmental perspective, it emphasizes the importance of improving resource efficiency and adopting eco-friendly materials and production methods. From a social perspective, it presents cases that protect workers' rights and welfare and ensure fair working conditions. From an economic perspective, it analyzes the need for strategic approaches to secure technological innovation and global competitiveness. The study found that innovative companies such as Spinnova, DyeCoo, and Human Material Loop are attempting various innovative approaches to implement sustainability. This study provides concrete action plans to enhance sustainability in the textile design industry and contribute to promoting sustainable development across the industry.

Stiffness in compression therapy: Analytical estimation of pressure changes beneath textile compression devices

Compression pressure changes in dynamic conditions under textile compression devices have a critical impact on the success of compression therapy. Models exist to predict the level of compression pressure, but not the actual change in pressure. This paper aims to derive a formula to accurately determine the pressure change under textile compression devices, to investigate the factors influencing the pressure change and to verify their effects through theoretical analysis. Firstly, a formula based on Laplace’s law is presented which mathematically describes the dependencies of pressure changes. Secondly, a simulation is carried out to demonstrate the effect of these dependencies on pressure changes using theoretical textile curve functions. Finally, the effect of these dependencies is demonstrated by testing short- and long-stretch bandages in a tensile testing machine and using the recorded material curves to simulate a theoretical application of these bandages to the lower limbs. The results show that the change in pressure is not solely determined by the intrinsic properties of the material, but is influenced by several variables, including the mechanical performance of the textile materials during stretching, the target pressures for application of the textile material, and the body geometries to which the material is applied. Pressure change cannot be a constant for textile compression devices such as bandages. The research increases the understanding of the factors that influence pressure changes in compression device materials. The findings may have implications for the design and selection of compression textiles in clinical applications.

Psychobiological responses to choir singing and creative arts activities in children and adolescents with mental disorders: results of apilot study.

Children and adolescents living with mental health problems often experience stress and poor mood states, which may influence their quality of life and well-being. Arts interventions may improve mood and well-being and reduce physiological stress in this vulnerable population. Acohort of patients in child and adolescent psychiatry (N = 42; age range: 12-18years) participated in one of four arts activities including choir singing (n = 11), textile design (n = 9), drama (n = 16), and clownery (n = 6). They were led by professional artists and delivered through five consecutive 90-min daily afternoon sessions over the course of 1week. Questionnaires of mood and saliva samples before and after each session served to assess short-term psychobiological changes. In addition, patients reported their quality of life and well-being at the beginning and at the end of the 1‑week program. Results showed that alertness was significantly enhanced after textile design (∆post-pre = 4.08, 95% CI [0.77, 7.39]) and after singing (∆post-pre = 2.20, 95% CI [-0.55, 4.94]). Moreover, mood tended to be positively affected by textile design (∆post-pre = 2.89, 95% CI [-0.39, 6.18]). Quality of life increased significantly after singing (∆post-pre = 5.49, 95% CI [1.05, 9.92]). Arts participation except singing was associated with significant reductions in salivary cortisol (sCort) (textile design ∆post-pre = -0.81 ng/mL, 95% CI [-1.48, -0.14]; drama ∆post-pre = -0.76 ng/mL, 95% CI [-1.28, -0.24]; clownery ∆post-pre = -0.74 ng/mL, 95% CI [-1.47, -0.01]). No significant changes were observed for well-being over the whole program and salivary immunoglobulinA (sIgA) after any of the arts activities. These results suggest that arts participation can improve mood state and reduce stress in young people with mental disorders, but there is aneed for further studies.

Generalized Background Vector Method for Tailored Three-Dimensional Nonperiodic Woven Composite Designs

In critical aerospace applications such as Ceramic Matrix Composite structures, novel three-dimensional nonperiodic textile composite preforms hold great promise for creating advanced composite structures with strategically aligned fiber tows. However, the inherently challenging nature of determining tow locations, a large-scale combinatorial problem, presents a significant obstacle in textile architecture design. This study generalizes the previously developed Background Vector Method (BVM) to address diverse design requirements and constraints, effectively circumventing combinatorial design complexities via a game theoretic approach. This approach allows for the creation of tunable designs for woven architectures with complex geometries, such as channels and tapering features, through simple control parameter adjustments. The method demonstrates exceptional computational efficiency, making it suitable for large-scale nonperiodic textile structures. Case studies including woven sandwich and airfoil structures highlight the generalized BVM’s versatility and effectiveness in addressing complex design challenges within the aerospace sector.

Bacterial Adhesion to Natural and Synthetic Fibre-Forming Polymers: Influence of Material Properties.

Polymer-based textiles have a major impact on human well-being, as they provide the desired functional protection and aesthetic comfort when worn. However, natural and synthetic polymer-based textiles can also pose serious health risks, as they are surfaces that allow the adhesion of various bacteria, including pathogenic bacteria. To minimise these problems, antibacterial chemical treatments are generally applicable in the case of polymer-based textiles. However, to avoid the use of potentially toxic chemicals, sustainable approaches require the customised design of non-adhesive polymer-based textiles, considering their chemical, physicochemical, constructional, and textural properties. Before designing, several articles are required to gain sufficient knowledge of the described object. Despite the urgent need to combat bacteria (on polymer-based textiles), which pose a serious global health risk, only a few review articles have been published that address bacterial adhesion in the context of superhydrophobic and antibacterial textile materials, while only one review article holistically addresses the textile factors and their influence on this phenomenon. The aim of this review article is to expand the insufficient knowledge about bacterial adhesion to polymer-based textiles on the basis of theoretical findings and real examples through a high degree of structuring, simplification, holistic consideration, and visualization. Therefore, this review provides an insight into the mechanisms involved in bacterial adhesion and a comprehensive overview of the influence of different textile factors, such as chemical composition, hydrophilicity/hydrophobicity, surface charge, surface free energy, roughness, and porosity, on bacterial adhesion. To emphasise the importance of the synergistic effect of the combined textile factors, examples of the influence of hydrophilicity/hydrophobicity in combination with surface charge, surface roughness, and porosity are discussed. From the review, it can be concluded that the combination of hydrophilicity/hydrophobicity and the surface charge of textile fibres and bacteria is crucial for bacterial adhesion, with roughness and porosity being the most important factors among the constructive and textural properties of polymer-based textiles.

Opportunities with Multi-Layer Weave Structures in Woven E-textile Design

Most textiles in day-to-day use are products of weaving. The versatility of this manufacturing technique, which readily supports a multi-layered structure, inclusion of several yarn types, malleability, and other valuable characteristics, has attracted attention from HCI researchers intrigued by its potential to expand the interaction capabilities of e-textiles. Research nonetheless has barely scratched the surface of the wealth of weaving techniques and woven structures available. Therefore, a design-research project anchored in practice investigated how touch-sensitive e-textiles’ capabilities might be enriched via advanced multi-layer weaving techniques. The research process, which drew inspiration from literature both on textile design and on woven e-textiles, produced 25 distinct e-textile samples. Results from evaluating the structural properties, electrical capabilities, and overall utility of each point to numerous unexplored opportunities from woven multi-layer e-textiles. Even holding potential for entirely new forms of interaction, these represent promising starting points for in-depth investigation.

Enhancing Soft Skills through Generative AI in Sustainable Fashion Textile Design Education

This study explores the significance of incorporating soft skill training in fashion design education through the use of artificial intelligence (AI) technology and examines various AI-based approaches for sustainable fashion textile design education employing a multifaceted methodology that encompasses empirical, quantitative, and qualitative methods. We investigate the aspects of Design Sprints, identify key soft skills that help students meet the complex demands of contemporary fashion design workplaces, propose a curriculum guide for AI textile design programs, and evaluate the soft skill training process. Participants included students who had completed basic fashion design courses over three to four semesters and had experience with the fashion design process. The findings confirmed that participants’ soft skills improved across four areas—digital competence, sense of initiative and entrepreneurship, problem-solving and thinking skills, and communication—through the AI-based fashion textile design curriculum. This study validates the importance of integrating AI technology into educational programs to enhance essential soft skills in the digital fashion industry environment. Additionally, it emphasizes the necessity of developing AI technology-specialized design prompts while maintaining a balance between traditional design education and digital design education for sustainable fashion design education.

The Integration of Traditional Chinese Folk Woodcut Motifs and Digital Technology in Contemporary Textile Design

The Integration of Traditional Chinese Folk Woodcut Motifs and Digital Technology in Contemporary Textile Design

Textile design events: An investigation into textile entanglements with insects and other living organisms

ABSTRACT This paper investigates textile-based artefacts as a starting point to engage in more-than-human entangled design processes. Instead of catering designs towards targeted species, the focus was on generating a palette of expressions that might inspire more-than-human interactions through the integrated diverse shapes, surfaces and materials. Drawing from design approaches that seek to re-center the more-than-human in human interventions, we understand other organisms as clients of design, active participants in the design process, and as co-inhabitants. Complementing freeform crocheted textiles with ceramics and 3D printing, we created a series of artefacts with a multitude of textures, porosities, permeabilities and flexibilities. The variation was extended by further explorations in biomaterial coating and integrating substrates. From this range of experimental work, we present three selected Textile Events. These textile-based Design Events were gradually set up in the spring of 2022 around the Tiny House on Wheels (THoW) of one of the authors. Embedded in the local ecosystem of Særløse overdrev on Zealand, Denmark, the THoW sits by the Bidstrup forest in the national park of Skjoldungernes Land. Auto-ethnographic observation disclosed a series of interactions that inspired us to learn more about the behaviour and life cycle of the more-than-human who co-created the Textile Events. We illustrate how the interactions changed and complexified with each season, and furthermore reflect on the potential of the artefacts, for example as nesting aids for solitary bees and wasps.

Knit-Mycelium Hybrids: Textile Design Strategies for Biofabrication Systems Based on Mycocrete Injection in 3D Knitted Tubular Formworks

This paper investigates the design potential of monolithically grown Mycelium-based Composites (MBCs), focusing on integrating 3D knitted formworks within the fabrication process. Mycelium has gained attention as a sustainable, biodegradable construction material with insulating and self-healing capabilities. While there have been advancements in MBC, challenges remain regarding geometrical complexity and design potential at scale through in situ practices. Recent interest has emerged in digital fabrication methods and mould creation using textile logic and CNC knitting. However, fabricating mycelium within tubular soft moulds present a lack of stability and uneven growth distribution. The novel technique using injection filling of Mycocrete, a viscous mycelium paste, overcomes this structural disintegration. This method enables the creation of complex designs within a two-staged fabrication process while providing high structural performance. The paper presents three case studies demonstrating the impact of hanging, draping, and internal shape integration as fabrication steps as design tools for geometrical possibilities and diversity of expressions. It examines the relationship between knitted soft preform design and biofabrication parameters in relation to design expression, scale and mycelium growth. The paper concludes by emphasising the significance of 3D knitted formworks in scaling up MBCs in the built environment and its potential for implementing textile design parameters in MBC expressions and geometries. The fabrication steps provide newfound design opportunities, opening possibilities for aesthetical, material-saving and functionally graded design approaches. Further research in this area holds promise for advancing sustainable construction and textile design practices.

Study on the promotion multiple of blood flow velocity on human epidermal microcirculation of volcanic rock polymer fiber seamless knitted fabric

Abstract As a material that can release infrared rays, volcanic rock polymer fibers can be used in textiles to improve human microcirculation, which is helpful to relieve chronic inflammatory diseases such as perishoulder arthritis. In this article, there are two different kinds of exterior yarns. Volcanic rock blended polyester, volcanic rock blended polyamide, polyester and polyamide are chosen as the material type of exterior yarn Ⅰ, whereas the material type of exterior yarn II is conductive polyamide yarn. The exterior yarn feed ratio of exterior yarn Ⅰ and exterior yarn II is designed as 8:0, 7:1 and 6:2 when weft plain stitch, 1 + 1 mock rib and 1 + 3 mock rib are used as the knitted structure of the fabric. According to the three-factor four-level orthogonal experimental design method, the sample protocol was established, and 16 knitted sample fabrics were produced. Then, the promotion multiple of blood flow velocity on human epidermal microcirculation of each sample was tested and analyzed. The results show that the promotion multiple of blood flow velocity on human epidermal microcirculation of the fabrics woven by volcanic rock polymer fibers is better than that of the blank control group, and the difference between fabrics with different volcanic rock polymer fibers is small. The higher the proportion of exterior yarn Ⅰ is, the better the promotion multiple of blood flow velocity on human epidermal microcirculation of fabric will be. The effect of knitted structure on the promotion multiple of blood flow velocity on human epidermal microcirculation of fabrics is not obvious. This study provides reference for the design of medical or health textiles for chronic inflammatory diseases.

Development of antibacterial and hydrophobic PVDF@ZnO coating on cotton fabrics by electrospinning method

Products with antimicrobial properties enhance personal comfort and hygiene by preventing bacterial infections. In this work, we developed an antibacterial and hydrophobic coating by combining zinc oxide (ZnO) nanoparticles with poly (vinylidene fluoride) (PVDF) through the electrospinning method, aiming for an enhanced cotton surface for textile applications. Initially, ZnO nanoparticles were synthesized and integrated uniformly within the PVDF, characterized by various analytical techniques. This study highlights the coating's remarkable antibacterial activity, evidenced by a significant inhibition zone diameter of 18 mm against Staphylococcus aureus and its enhanced hydrophobicity, with a contact angle of 136°. Additionally, it was found that the Higuchi model could describe the diffusion release of ZnO from the PVDF coating. The obtained result allows us to conclude that applying the electrospinning method to fabric coatings opens new avenues in the design of functional textiles, particularly antibacterial ones, as proved in this paper.

THE ARTISTRY OF MIRROR EMBELLISHMENTS IN FASHION

Mirror work is a traditional textile embellishment technique that involves stitching small pieces of reflective material, often mirrors, onto fabric. This intricate craft has been used for centuries to adorn garments, particularly in Indian culture, where it is believed to ward off evil and bring good luck. This style combines traditional craftsmanship with modern manufacturing methods, producing high-quality, market-ready products. Digital design techniques have streamlined the process, enabling precise and repeated patterns that enhance the visual appeal. This fusion of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary technology exemplifies the potential for innovation in the textile industry. This study explores the historical significance, Global Designers and Innovation in mirror work, various types of mirror work, techniques, variations used in the fashion fields, and different methods of attaching mirrors to fabric, including frames for the mirror. This study also discusses the applications of mirror work in fashion, highlighting its use in traditional and trendy garments. The fusion of mirror works into textile designs, informed by extensive secondary data, has led to the development of innovative and aesthetically pleasing products.

The Origin and Evolution of the Paired Animals on Chinese Swords

This article explores the historical evolution of paired animal motifs on Chinese swords, highlighting their transformation from symbols of wealth to emblems of royal power. Originating from Persian textile designs, these motifs entered Chinese culture during the sixth and seventh centuries through Sino-West Asian cultural exchanges. Initially, these motifs reflected exotic tastes and wealth among the Chinese elite. However, with the establishment of the Yuan Dynasty, these motifs were recontextualized as symbols of royal authority. The study traces this cultural journey, examining how Persian artistic traditions were adapted and institutionalized within Chinese imperial iconography, particularly during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Through a detailed analysis of swords and textiles, the paper illustrates the continuity and transformation of these motifs, emphasizing their significance in reflecting broader cultural and political shifts in ancient China.