Design Fabrication Research Articles

Soft Control

Intertwining the work of designer Ana Piñeyro and anthropologist Joffrey Becker, this video.able essay presents an archeology of the processes involved in the transformation of matter and the manifestation of its behavior. Renewed attitudes toward matter, as framed within the philosophical stances of the new materialisms (e.g., De Landa 1997; Braidotti 2000; Barad 2003), have prompted researchers and designers to explore the performance and behavior of materials by tapping into their inherent morphogenetic and self-organizing capacities (Leach 2017; Menges 2006). Designer Ana Piñeyro follows this path. Building on the introduction of heat-responsive, twisted, and coiled polymeric actuators in the field of material science (Haines et al. 2014), her research explores the emergence of filament forms and their associated shape-change behavior in response to heat, with the aim of broadening available opportunities to design with active flexible materials in the field of textiles (Piñeyro 2020). Engaging in spontaneous, hands-on dialogue with the material as a means to expand the creative space (Piñeyro 2019) calls for a subsequent formalization of arising material transformations in order to enable their further application, thus raising the epistemological issue of the replicability of results (Popper 1959). As a condition of scientific knowledge, replicability invites the consideration of the performative aspects of practice and thus addresses its contingency in a reflexive manner (Pickering 1995). To this end, we provide insights on the search for replicable outcomes by bringing together the fields of arts and design with that of the anthropology of techniques. The reflexive work we present raises questions on least at two levels traditionally linked to two very distinct epistemic cultures (Knorr-Cetina 1999). Arts and social anthropology have an ambiguous relationship with replication, a notion that has raised issues in both arts (Debord 1994; Benjamin 1969) and sciences (Baker 2016). The scope of our contribution goes beyond this ambiguity. It extends to the search for the very conditions of replicability by paying particular attention to the parameters that can make it operational in a given context by considering the various operations required in its achievement in a reflexive manner. In doing so, we reflect on the role of the formal diversity that arises from variations that permeate the making process, identifying their influence on the material's aesthetic and expressive qualities. What steps are required to achieve replicable results? What forms of tinkering and what means are used to learn about and document processes that reveal the aesthetic and expressive potentials of materials? How does the milieu influence the outcomes of practice? A multidisciplinary dialogue between textile and material design practice and the anthropology of techniques contextualizes prerecorded visuals to reflect on the influence of the flowing negotiation between material, environment, and practitioner on the outcomes of material transformation processes. This is what we regard as a soft form of control. Setting off from the notion of the recipe, we consider the chains of operation and sequences of actions (Leroi-Gourhan 1993; Lemonnier 1992; Sellet 1993; Coupaye 2009) involved in understanding material behavior, focusing on the ways in which the former are shaped through the sensory experience of matter.

Modern Textile Design Based on Traditional Elements

Traditional culture is the silicon treasure of Chinese spiritual culture, the concentrated embodiment and reflection of Chinese national spirit, and the traditional elements of Chinese culture also show the world China's extensive and profound cultural heritage. With the continuous evolution of historical culture, traditional culture is also constantly evolving, updating, and advancing with the times. The examples of traditional cultural elements applied to pattern decoration can be traced back to ancient times. This paper adopts qualitative research methods to conduct systematic research. The research believes that since ancient times, the use of traditional elements in textiles has been emerging endlessly and continuously updated. It is necessary to not only preserve the traditional cultural values, but also carry forward the cultural heritage and ideological spirit contained in traditional elements, so as to stand out and highlight individuality in the current trend of contemporary art.

The effect of miss stitches on the dimensional and stretch properties of double weft cotton/flax knitted fabrics

This research aims to investigate the influence of single miss stitches on the structural characteristics, dimensional stability, and stretch properties of double weft cotton/flax knitted fabrics. The study encompasses nine fabric variants with different numbers of knit and miss stitches in the repeat, alongside with half Milano rib fabric. All knitted fabrics are produced using a 2-ply 25x2tex x 2 cotton/flax blend yarn (70% cotton, 30% flax) on a 10 -gage flat-bed knitting machine. The comprehensive analysis encompasses crucial structural properties after dry relaxation for 10 days and after four washing cycles. Also, both the dimensional properties and stretch properties were examined b lengthwise and widthwise. It was found that the lengthwise dimensional changes for all fabrics were significantly greater than widthwise. The interlooping repeat significantly affects the widthwise fabric shrinkage: an increase in the percentage of missed stitches in the repeat leads to a decrease in the widthwise shrinkage. The full lengthwise deformation of studied fabrics ranges between 15% and 25%, while the widthwise value reaches up to 63% and depends on miss stitches repeat. An Increasing the percentage of missed stitches in the repeat leads to a decrease in the widthwise stretching due to the floats’ positioning in this direction. Fabrics with the same percentage of miss stitches in the repeat show similar levels of structural characteristics, shrinkage and deformations. In brief, this research offers valuable insights into the properties of double knitted fabrics with different single miss stitches. Understanding how these stitches influence fabric characteristics can greatly optimize textile design and manufacturing for both fashion and technical textiles.

Surface-engineered double-layered fabrics for continuous, passive fluid transport.

Textiles with a wicking finish transport moisture away from the skin, such that it is exposed to the environment for fast evaporation, aiding in thermophysiological comfort. Once saturated, such as in highly humid environments or if the wearer dons multiple layers, the efficacy of such a finish is substantially reduced. Here, we develop a new type of fluid transport textile design by combining physical and chemical wettability patterns to transport and remove liquids like sweat. First, a non-toxic, superhydrophobic fabric finish is developed that retains the air permeability of the fabric. Next, two superhydrophobic fabric layers are threaded together, containing wettability channels patterned at the inner/interior side of the fabrics. This design allows for liquid transport through the stitches to the interior channels and keeps both external faces dry. The developed strategy enables directional fluid transport under highly humid conditions, resulting in a ∼20 times faster transport rate than evaporation-based methods. The design principles described here can be used to provide thermophysiological comfort for users in extreme conditions, such as firefighters, law enforcement personnel, and health workers wearing personal protective ensembles.

Tehnologija proizvodnje 3D štampanih modela na različitim materijalima korišćenjem procesa fuzionog taloženja materijala

The joining of thermoplastic and textile materials is gaining more and more importance today. New combinations of materials and new structures that change fashion trends are obtained. The paper presents the technology of joining thermoplastic materials with different fabrics. For example, the realization of a button on textiles and the description of 3D printing were taken. This pioneering venture describes the technology, fabric model-making process, and materials melting bond analysis. Unfortunately, available thermoplastic materials have many limitations regarding durability, aging, and service life according to the defined requirements. The idea of this paper is the application of 3D printing in the fashion industry as an emerging topic for discussion. The experimental part of this investigation will provide a new guideline for designers of PLA/ABS printing elements on textile substrates and possibility for application in modern textile design.

STUDENTS’ PERCEPTIONS OF SUSTAINABLE ENTREPRENEURSHIP THROUGH ART & DESIGN THEMED PROJECTS: A QUALITATIVE INQUIRY

This research aims to explore the dynamic relationships within sustainable entrepreneurship. This research examines the evolving nature of sustainable entrepreneurship in the presence of three major aspects: social, economic, and environmental. In management literature, the idea of sustainable entrepreneurship is relatively new. Sustainable business practices are frequently referred to as stainability business practices. The idea was conceived to connect books on entrepreneurship and sustainable development. A qualitative research methodology is adopted for this research. Thirty-nine students from Art & Design sector were included in this study. A total of 39 students were involved in the research process. Students were later given a detailed project to submit entrepreneurial projects, including the sustainability factors. These 39 students were the graduates of the final semester from four different sectors: Fashion Design, Textile Design, Interior Architecture Design, and Graphic Design. It is not easy to progress toward sustainable entrepreneurship policies for all stakeholders involved to maximise their operations and benefits due to the fact that the existing institutional structures prefer the currently operating businesses and systems that are not sustainable over the more recent ones that are sustainable. The research findings in this study provide insights into concepts important to understanding sustainable entrepreneurship in a developing country. Keywords: Sustainable Entrepreneurship, Pakistan, Sustainability, Case Study, Projects, Art & Design.

Teak Trees as Source of Inspiration for Developing Batik Motifs

Many batik motifs have been developed in various regions, inspired by various local resources such as plants, animals, regional icons, cultural arts, etc. The objective of this study is to look for ideas in the form of teak leaves and flowers that can be developed into batik and textile motif designs. The descriptive qualitative, literature review, participatory follow-up study, focus group discussion method, and the development of craftsman creativity were all used to achieve these goals. The study took place at the Jalidin batik craft shop in Sragen. Teak plant objects, motif designers, batik craftsmen, and libraries were among the data sources. The findings of the study were the motifs in the form of teak leaves and flowers, which could be used as master designs for both batik and textiles. Then the shape of the teak leaves and flowers are arranged in various compositions to produce several designs, and the batik motif designs are applied to jarit-patterned batik, long-sleeved shirt-patterned batik, and textile/printed batik. The resulting motifs were then produced into batik according to the economic class projections of the consumers, namely the consumer’s economic class projections, using prima and primissima cloths, combination and writing techniques, synthetic and natural dyes, and synthetic and natural dyes. In addition, the motifs were produced into printed textiles/batik. Batik cloths and textiles that have been produced are then made into shirts.

The aesthetics of configuration systems and their applications In women's textile designs (the marine environment as a model)

تعد صناعة الأقمشة من نتاج الحضارة الإنسانية وهو مقياس رقي الأمم وتطورها، وازدهارها مرتبط بازدهار المجتمعات التي يترعرع فيها، فلقد اهتمت الشعوب بصناعتها النسيجية لتزيد من انتمائها وأصالتها وهويتها التي عدتها من الأوجه الحضارية وشكل من أشكال التعبير عن شخصيتها ، فدور المصمم في هذه البيئة هو تحديد المنظور الجمالي ونوع الانظمة التكوينية المتبعة على الأقمشة والكيفيات التي يخلقها لإعادة ترتيب أشكال التصميم حتى يحقق الجوانب الجمالية والتعبيرية وبما ينسجم مع الوظيفة

Kesenian Eco-print Hapazome pada Tekstil sebagai Antitesis Environmentally Unfriendly Textile Dyestuff

Today’s fashion business is concerned about the environmentally unfriendly or ecologically unfavorable problem of textile industry waste. It is well recognized that dyes have hazardous effects on living organisms, and industrial textile waste in general can be in the form of effluents (liquid waste) including dye residual substances. Because it contaminates the water, textile dye waste is particularly unfavorable to the environment. Based on this, researchers design a textile using the Hapazome dyeing technique, which is an eco-friendly method of dying. This method falls under the category of eco-printing or natural printing. Hapazome technical art is one of the Japanese art which means leaf-dye. By hitting the leaf’s top surface against a piece of fabric, researchers apply Hapazome technique which can create a copy of the leaf’s motif form on fabric. The motifs designed by researchers in the creation of textiles were chosen from one of Balinese cultures, that is, Balinese script. The choice of Balinese script as the primary theme for creating textile designs attempts to demonstrate one of Balinese local identities. Thus, the nuances and characteristics of the local Balinese are built into the fabrics that researchers created. Using the approach of art creation, research is done on the art of eco-printing Hapazome on textiles as the antithesis of environmentally unfriendly textile dyestuff. The method of art creation is a way of systematically putting a work of art into real.

3D-printing textiles: multi-stage mechanical characterization of additively manufactured biaxial weaves

3D printing allows the fabrication of complex microstructures that would traditionally require specialized machinery. In the fabrication of textiles, 3D printing may enable unique yarn structures, greater manufacturing flexibility and facilitate the development of personalized and tunable devices. In literature, 3D printed textiles have not been subjected to a thorough mechanical characterization. In this paper, a generative model of 3D printed biaxial weaves is developed and a parametric study to effectively map the design parameters to the weaves’ mechanical properties is performed via a two-stage Design-of-Experiments methodology. The samples are printed with material jetting layer by layer in planar direction and destructively tested in tension to obtain the resulting stress–strain behavior. The stress–strain curves are approximated by a bilinear model characterized predominantly by a transition strain and the major modulus after transition. The transition strain is influenced by the load direction and the weave pattern, while the major modulus is impacted by the load direction, the yarn diameter, the weave pattern and the yarn spacing in descending order. Further evaluation of the fracture behavior shows a mitigation of layer-wise delamination. This result indicates that material jetting can enable the production of arbitrary, quasi-continuous textile structures. The characterization results presented here may pave the way towards the design of textiles with spatially varying mechanical properties.

Cultural Interaction: The Transformation of Textile design for Traditional Cheongsam in the Republic of China

Abstract This paper aims to discuss the artistic characteristics of traditional cheongsam and the transformation that has taken place in cheongsam textile design in the Republic of China. By analysing a collection consisting of 259 traditional cheongsam material samples in various museums such as the China Silk Archives in Suzhou, we explored the transformation of cheongsam textile design during the Republic of China from the perspective of Eastern and Western art cultural exchanges and explored the spread of Western artistic thought in China. Our research shows that, firstly, with the development of industrialization, the traditional cheongsam textile business absorbed new design concepts; secondly, in terms of material selection and pattern style, it widened the range of fabrics used and broke the monotony of traditional Chinese patterns. Moreover, it reduced connotations of social class implied by traditional textile design. Finally, these textile designs reflect the progress that has been made in the development of this artistic trend and the cultural fusion of Eastern and Western arts during the Republic of China.

Between yarns and electrons: A method for designing electromagnetic expressions in woven smart textiles

The design of woven smart textiles presents a discrepancy of scale where the designer works at the level of structural textile design while facets of the material express at scales beyond one’s senses. Without appropriate methods to address these unknown (or hidden) material dimensions, certain expressional domains of the textile are closed off from textile design possibilities. The aim of the research has been to narrow the gap that presents when one designs simultaneously at the scale of textile structure and electron flow in yarns. It does this by detailing a method for sensing, visualizing, and discussing expressions of electromagnetism in woven smart textiles. Based on experimental research, a method of textile surface scanning is proposed to produce a visualization of the textile’s electromagnetic field. The woven textile samples observed through this method reveal an unknown textural quality that exists within the electron flow – an electromagnetic texture, which emerges at the intersection of woven design and electromagnetic domain variables. The research further contributes to the definition of specific design variables such as: field strength and diffusion expanding the practice of woven smart textile design to the electromagnetic domain.

PERANCANGAN TEKSTIL PAKAIAN DENGAN PEWARNA DARI SAMPAH MANGROVE DAN PENERAPAN MOTIFNYA DENGAN PADUAN TEKNIK IKAT CELUP DAN ECO PRINTING

The background of this design, there is an exploration of manual textile techniques among textile designers, this is in line with the demands of the times, namely, the development of existing trends in order to meet the needs of consumers and the market. The combination of tie-dying and eco-printing techniques attracts attention to be explored again using natural dyes with the addition of embroidery techniques on Bemberg cloth media, which will produce textiles with novelty in their aesthetic motifs. The purpose of this design is to produce clothing textiles with novelty in their unique motif aesthetics among textile designers to meet the needs of consumers and the market. The novelty value offered in this design is the design of clothing textiles according to fashion patterns with a combination of dyeing and eco printing techniques with embroidery techniques. Natural coloring using extraction from mangrove waste. Composing motifs using natural dyes from mangrove waste with two fixations of quicklime and tunjung to obtain varied visual aesthetics in one natural coloring. The media used in this blend of tie-dying and eco-printing techniques is bemberg cloth. Bemberg cloth material was chosen because it has very good absorption. The design method uses the SP Gustami theory. This design produces 6 unique designs with visual ideas of line, plane and color, which can be achieved by a combination of tritik, jumputan tie-dyed and eco printing techniques, three of which are applied to sheets of cloth measuring 200cm long and 120cm wide. It is hoped that the "Design of Clothing Textiles with Dye from Mangrove Waste and the Application of its Motifs with a Combination of Ikat Dip and Eco Printing Techniques" can add variety to fashion products that have unique, distinctive and limited edition characters.

Carnival and the Theme of Migration

Carnival and the Theme of Migration

Moth to Cloth: Silk in Africa

Moth to Cloth: Silk in Africa

KAJIAN MOTIF BATIK GONGGONG CV LAWANA DI TANJUNG PINANG

Gonggong CV Lawana in Tanjung Pinang using a textile design method approach. This research is formulated in one question "How is the design of the Batik Gonggong motif in the Production of Batik Gonggong CV Lawana, Tanjung Pinang with a textile design method approach through aesthetic, material, process, function, and fashion aspects?". This research uses a descriptive qualitative research method with a textile design method approach. Data analysis techniques using interactive analysis models include data reduction, data presentation, and concluding. The results of the research reveal the stages that are passed in designing based on aesthetic aspects, materials, process functions, and supporting aspects, namely fashion. (1) The aesthetic aspect that is considered in the main and supporting motifs, especially the main motif of Batik Gonggong CV Lawana has identical characteristics with the character of a snail shell that bulges in its belly. (2) The material aspect is a consideration in selecting the type of yarn fiber, the structure of the weave, nature and absorption capacity or suitability of the fabric as well as the different alternative fabrics for stamped and written batik products. (3) The process aspect of Batik Gonggong begins with determining the design from the main source of inspiration, the shell of the barking snail, the design will go through a sublimation process, then continue to be produced in certain quantities. (4) Functional aspects are related to consumers who use the product as a choice of use, as regional souvenirs, uniforms, and fashion. (5) The fashion aspect is found in the development of motifs through three periods ranging from natural suggestion patterns, creative patterns, and combined patterns. The development of the coloring technique, namely gradation is done by brushing using a sponge with a combination of giving light and dark colors which when soaked will fade and produce a gradation effect.

Rapid Ferroelectric-Photoexcited Bacteria-Killing of Bi4Ti3O12/Ti3C2T x Nanofiber Membranes.

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s42765-022-00234-8.

Fouling‐Proof Cooling (FP‐Cool) Fabric Hybrid with Enhanced Sweat‐Elimination and Heat‐Dissipation for Personal Thermal Regulation

AbstractPassive cooling fabric that facilitates sweat‐wicking and evaporation is highly desirable for promoting human body's thermal comfort and reducing energy consumption. However, highly hydrophilic sweat‐wicking fabric fails to repel external fouling due to the contradiction between hydrophilicity and lyophobicity. Moreover, conventional passive cooling fabrics show limited evaporation capacity when they reach the adsorption limit in intense perspiration scenarios. Herein, a fouling‐proof cooling (FP‐Cool) fabric with an interactive functional structure design for highly‐efficient personal thermal regulation is proposed by constructing spatially distributed superoleophobic Janus channels on an optimized heat conductive superomniphobic fabric. The dominant superomniphobicity and superoleophobic Janus feature endow the outer FP‐Cool fabric with durable performance (up to 3000 cycles’ abrasion) to repel oil/water‐based contaminations. The Janus channels rapidly pull sweat out of the inner fabric for efficient evaporation, ensuring a dry sense of skin. The FP‐Cool fabric preserves 40% higher thermal conductivity, and over 50% higher evaporation rate than conventional fabrics. In the sweat evaporation test, the FP‐Cool fabric shows up to 100% reduction in sweat gain ratio to cotton fabric. The concept would have implications for intelligent textiles design, and the synthesis strategy can be applied in various applications such as oil‐water separation and microfluidics control.

Solar Cell Integrated Wearable Patch Antenna on Artificial Magnetic Conductor for On-Body and In-Body Communications

This paper presents a patch antenna on a jeans textile with an artificial magnetic conductor (AMC) structure stacked on a solar cell for wearable applications in the Industrial, Scientific, and Medical (ISM) band. Meanwhile, the loading of the AMC reflector increases the radiation efficiency and antenna gain and also results in a reduction in specific absorption rate levels. As examination cases, two textile antenna designs loaded on 7 × 8 patches of AMC plane with the ground plane of both fully copper conductor and partially copper aided with solar cells were fabricated and tested, presenting a strong agreement between simulation and measurement. Its measured impedance bandwidth is 13.79% (2.16 GHz–2.48 GHz) with good return loss and voltage standing wave ratio features in the operating band where it is being used. Besides being a source of electricity, the silicon solar cells are also used as a radio frequency ground plane for the AMC plane. They can produce363.08 mW.

Tobacco and Hot Pot Odor Adsorbed by Cotton, Wool, and Polyester Fabrics: Desorption Components and Dynamic Analysis

Fibrous textiles readily absorb and desorb ambient odors. However, information on the composition and dynamic analysis of tobacco smoke and hot pot odors on fabrics during desorption is limited. This study used gas chromatography–mass spectrometry to analyze the desorption components of cotton, wool, and polyester fabrics exposed to these two odors, respectively. Then, a dynamic diffusion fabric structure model demonstrated the effect of airflow velocity and fabric porosity on nicotine desorption. Furthermore, we proposed mass diffusion coefficients with different molecular weights. The results showed that cotton fabrics with tobacco smoke released many low molecular weight compounds, while with wool fabrics significantly fewer compounds were detected than for the other two fabrics. Notably, 3-ethenylpyridine, a marker of tobacco smoke, was not detected in wool fabrics. For hot pot odor, cotton fabrics released more hexanal, nonanal, and anethole than wool and polyester, while wool fabrics released many β-pinenes. The numerical results of the dynamic model showed that the air inlet velocity significantly affects the nicotine concentration in the fabric. Meanwhile, the concentration of nicotine in fabrics with lower porosity decreased faster. A lower mass diffusion coefficient will cause odors to remain in the fabric. This study aimed at the composition and the dynamics of odor in fabrics and offers essential information and simple models for reducing unnecessary washing of textiles and odor resistance textile design.