Scent Production Research Articles

Vanillaflowers: much more than food-deception

AbstractIn many flowering plants the attraction of pollinators is related to some kind of deception. Pollination by food-deception occurs in several angiosperm groups and is particularly widespread in orchids. Despite the apparent evolutionary success of pollination by food-deception, food-deceptive orchids show a low level of fruit set. Although studies are scarce, the pollination of Vanilla has been usually associated with nectar-deception. In Vanilla spp. (Vanilla bahiana, V. bicolor, V. chamissonis, V. edwallii, V. hartii, V. phaeantha, V. paulista, V. planifolia, V. ribeiroi and V. pompona), understanding the factors associated with pollinators is essential, since in vanilla production a cumbersome process of supplementary manual pollination is necessary to increase fruit set, which is frequently low under natural conditions. The production of floral rewards was investigated here in ten Neotropical Vanilla spp. based on morpho-anatomy and histochemical analyses of flowers. Six species (Vanilla bahiana, Vanilla bicolor, Vanilla chamissonis, Vanilla hartii, Vanilla phaeantha and Vanilla pompona) offer nectar as a reward. In Vanilla ribeiroi, the long trichomes of the labellum base are rich in starch grains and proteins, characteristic of food-hairs. The only secretory structures of Vanilla edwallii are osmophores on the inner surface of the labellum that are related to the attraction of oil-collecting bees as pollinators. Vanilla spp. possess sepaline and labellar osmophores. Inside the labellum the osmophores are arranged along longitudinal lines and act as resource guides. Although it is widely known that Vanilla flowers attract pollinators by nectar deception, the present data reveal that there may be a lack of knowledge regarding pollination in this group since the offer of nectar appears to be a common condition, at least for the euglossine-pollinated Neotropical clade. The remaining Neotropical groups exhibit other pollination strategies, such as the production of food-hairs and fragrances that attract oil-collecting bees to the flowers. The study of Vanilla pollination is extremely important because the need for manual pollination, added to the ripening and curing time, causes vanilla to be one of the most expensive spices in the world. According to the data presented here, the pollination systems of vanilla are much more diverse than classical “food deception”.

Metabolic engineering of Deinococcus radiodurans for pinene production from glycerol

BackgroundThe objective of this work was to engineer Deinococcus radiodurans R1 as a microbial cell factory for the production of pinene, a monoterpene molecule prominently used for the production of fragrances, pharmaceutical products, and jet engine biofuels. Our objective was to produce pinene from glycerol, an abundant by-product of various industries.ResultsTo enable pinene production in D. radiodurans, we expressed the pinene synthase from Abies grandis, the geranyl pyrophosphate (GPP) synthase from Escherichia coli, and overexpressed the native 1-deoxy-d-xylulose 5-phosphate synthase. Further, we disrupted the deinoxanthin pathway competing for the substrate GPP by either inactivating the gene dr0862, encoding phytoene synthase, or substituting the native GPP synthase with that of E. coli. These manipulations resulted in a D. radiodurans strain capable of producing 3.2 ± 0.2 mg/L pinene in a minimal medium supplemented with glycerol, with a yield of 0.13 ± 0.04 mg/g glycerol in shake flask cultures. Additionally, our results indicated a higher tolerance of D. radiodurans towards pinene as compared to E. coli.ConclusionsIn this study, we successfully engineered the extremophile bacterium D. radiodurans to produce pinene. This is the first study demonstrating the use of D. radiodurans as a cell factory for the production of terpenoid molecules. Besides, its high resistance to pinene makes D. radiodurans a suitable host for further engineering efforts to increase pinene titer as well as a candidate for the production of the other terpenoid molecules.

Prevalence and Risk Factors of Self-Reported Perfume Sensitivity in Saudi Arabia.

Perfumes are widely used products; however, several fragrance substances used in perfuming are well-established allergenic substances and have been attributed to various adverse health reactions. The nature and significance of perfume sensitivity reactions have not been thoroughly investigated. Therefore, this study aimed to identify the prevalence, nature, and associated risk factors of self-reported perfume sensitivity among the general population in Saudi Arabia. A nationally representative cross-sectional study was conducted among adults in Saudi Arabia in October 2020. Significant associated risk factors were explored using multivariate regression analyses. A total of 1078 participants completed the survey, with a mean age of 36.7 years (SD ± 10.36). Perfume sensitivity reactions were reported in 14.6% of participants. From among these participants, 17.8% reported moderate to severe reactions. Respiratory and skin symptoms were the most reported reactions, with total rates of 40.1% and 35.7%, respectively. History of asthma (OR = 3.2, 95%CI 1.88–4.37, p < 0.001) and the use of counterfeit perfume products (OR = 1.9, 95%CI 1.23–2.94, p < 0.003) were significantly associated with a higher risk of perfume sensitivity. Our study revealed that a considerable number of the general population in Saudi Arabia has experienced adverse health reactions due to perfume products. The enormous volume of the perfume market thus necessitates further quantitative analysis studies to determine the presence of allergenic fragrance substances in perfumes.

Environmental bio-oxidation of toxic furan by the co-recycling of waste fermented broth and rest cells

Furoic acid (FA) is used widely as raw material for bio-based resin, food, pharmaceutical and perfume products. The biocatalysis of Gluconobacter oxydans is on the spotlight of furfural oxidation to FA because of high selectivity, safety and environmental friendliness. However, like most bacterial fermentations, we have to treat a lot of waste fermented broth, especially containing toxic furans. An integrated bioprocess was developed to achieve the co-recycling of cells and waste broth during FA bioproduction. We found sorbitol performed a critical role during the co-recycling bioprocess and the cost of yeast extract was substituted entirely by cheaper corn extract. Here, FA bioproduction efficiency kept six rounds with the productivity of 10.3 g/L/h and 98% yield. The integrated bioprocess provides a novel idea for biotechnology developments not only on bioconversion of toxic furans but also on industrial fermentation, especially for the troublesome problems around the recycling of waste fermented broth.

Formulasi dan Evaluasi Parfum Tipe Eau de Toilette (EDT) “Senarai Jingga”

Lack of research on formulation and evaluation of fragrance products (perfumes) in Indonesia and the need to improve the publication and branding of Tanjungkarang Health Polytechnic (Polkestanka) can be done through the development of perfume products according to climate characteristics in Indonesia. This research with quantitative experimental design aims to produce formulas and fragrance products (perfumes) type Eau de Toilette (EDT) that has the equivalent or better quality of branded perfumes on the markets. The Intervention has done by formulating perfume "Orange List" type EDT with 5 (five) series of fragrance ingredients 6-10% by Indonesian National Standard (SNI) 16-4949-1998 then compare it with positive control. The research was conducted from April 2020 until September 2020 at the Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Department of Polkestanka Pharmacy. The results organoleptically showed the entire formula produces 100% clarity, homogeneous 100%, particle-free 100%, and citrus smell. The density of all formulas meets the requirements, with the density largest in F5 of 0,86. The fragrance resistance test of the entire formula still smelled at the 4th hour and with the spot largest test result in F2 with a diameter of 75,59 mm. The most preferred "Senarai Jingga" formula is F5 (60%). Kendall's W Test analysis obtained a significance of 0,016 that showed respondents preferred "Senarai Jingga" Perfume over positive control by the alignment of respondents judging the two perfumes to be significantly different. The later research suggests is that a favorite level test between “Senarai Jingga" Perfume and different positive controls (other brand perfumes) with citrus characteristics is required.

The Environmental Injustice of Beauty: an intersectional analysis of vaginal care products by race/ethnicity and socioeconomic status

BACKGROUND AND AIM: The environmental injustice of beauty framework links intersectional systems of oppression (e.g. racism, sexism, classism) to racialized beauty practices and poor health outcomes. Historical and ongoing discrimination around vaginal odors especially among women of color can influence menstrual and other vaginal product use, which are a source of exposure to harmful chemical mixtures. The aim of this analysis is to examine differences in vaginal product use by race/ethnicity and socioeconomic status. METHODS: We combined survey data on vaginal product use from the following two studies focused on the health of Black and Latina reproductive-aged women: a hospital-based study in the Washington, DC area (FORGE) and a community-based study in California (Taking Stock). Vaginal product use was examined at the intersections of race/ethnicity (Black (N=185), Latina (N=156), White (N=71), and Other (N=84) and socioeconomic status (≦High School (HS) education (N=99) versus HS (N=391)). RESULTS:Significant differences exist in the type of vaginal care products used by racial/ethnicity as well as by educational attainment. Tampon and menstrual cup use were more common among White women than Black or Latina women (p.001). Among women of color, tampon and menstrual cup use were greater among more highly educated women. Conversely, less educated women were more likely to use douches, feminine sprays, and scented tampons and pads (p.01). The highest prevalence of most fragranced product use was among Black women with HS education or less. CONCLUSIONS:White women with some college education have significantly different vaginal product use patterns than Black and Latina women without a college education. Racial/ethnic and socioeconomic patterns in product use may contribute to inequities in environmental exposures and health outcomes. In future analyses, we will examine intersectional patterns across multiple product categories. KEYWORDS: Environmental disparities, Female, Environmental epidemiology, Chemical exposures

Characterization of the Glutathione S-Transferases Involved in Styrene Degradation in Gordonia rubripertincta CWB2.

ABSTRACTThe glutathione S-transferases carried on the plasmid for the styrene-specific degradation pathway in the Actinobacterium Gordonia rubripertincta CWB2 were heterologously expressed in Escherichia coli. Both enzymes were purified via affinity chromatography and subjected to activity investigations. StyI and StyJ displayed activity toward the commonly used glutathione S-transferase model substrate 1-chloro-2,4-dinitrobenzene (CDNB) with Km values of 0.0682 ± 0.0074 and 2.0281 ± 0.1301 mM and Vmax values of 0.0158 ± 0.0002 and 0.348 ± 0.008 U mg−1 for StyI and StyJ, respectively. The conversion of the natural substrate styrene oxide to the intermediate (1-phenyl-2-hydroxyethyl)glutathione was detected for StyI with 48.3 ± 2.9 U mg−1. This elucidates one more step in the not yet fully resolved styrene-specific degradation pathway of Gordonia rubripertincta CWB2. A characterization of both purified enzymes adds more insight into the scarce research field of actinobacterial glutathione S-transferases. Moreover, a sequence and phylogenetic analysis puts both enzymes into a physiological and evolutionary context.IMPORTANCE Styrene is a toxic compound that is used at a large scale by industry for plastic production. Bacterial degradation of styrene is a possibility for bioremediation and pollution prevention. Intermediates of styrene derivatives degraded in the styrene-specific pathways are precursors for valuable chemical compounds. The pathway in Gordonia rubripertincta CWB2 has proven to accept a broader substrate range than other bacterial styrene degraders. The enzymes characterized in this study, distinguish CWB2s pathway from other known styrene degradation routes and thus might be the main key for its ability to produce ibuprofen from the respective styrene derivative. A biotechnological utilization of this cascade could lead to efficient and sustainable production of drugs, flavors, and fragrances. Moreover, research on glutathione metabolism in Actinobacteria is rare. Here, a characterization of two glutathione S-transferases of actinobacterial origin is presented, and the utilization of glutathione in the metabolism of an Actinobacterium is proven.

Phenotypic plasticity in floral scent in response to nutrient, but not water, availability in the perennial plant Arabis alpina

Abstract Floral scent is an important mediator of plant–pollinator interactions. Multiple recent studies report ample intraspecific scent variation among populations and individuals. Yet, few studies have estimated effects of phenotypic plasticity on floral scent in response to differing environmental factors. In this study, we investigated the effects of nutrient and water availability on floral scent in self‐compatible and self‐incompatible populations of the perennial herb Arabis alpina. We subjected greenhouse grown plants to different nutrient and water treatments in a crossed design, examined the effects on floral scent emission rate and composition, compared the level of plasticity to that of other plant traits, and conducted hand‐pollinations of nutrient‐limited individuals to test for a potential allocation cost of scent production. For both self‐compatible and self‐incompatible populations, the per‐flower scent emission rate was 1.2–4 times higher when nutrients were abundant, but this effect explained little variation in scent emission rate and was limited compared to plasticity in flower number. There was no effect of water treatment on scent emission. Additionally, neither treatment had an effect on the composition of the floral scent, and there was no detectable trade‐off between scent and seed production that would imply a cost of floral scent production. Overall, while per‐flower floral scent emission displayed limited phenotypic plasticity in response to nutrient conditions, the total amount of scent emitted by plants may increase more strongly at higher nutrient availabilities due to an increase in flower production. Therefore, our results suggest that fitness benefits due to increased scent emission rates under favourable nutrient conditions might depend on the extent to which floral scent serves as a long‐ or short‐distance pollinator attractant for the focal plant species. A free Plain Language Summary can be found within the Supporting Information of this article.

Urinary parabens and their potential sources of exposure among Korean children and adolescents: Korean National Environmental Health Survey 2015-2017.

Parabens are used as a preservative in several consumer products including cosmetics, personal care products, and medicinal products. These chemicals have been suspected for estrogenicity and potential adverse endocrine outcomes in humans. For the first time, exposure profiles and potential sources of major parabens are investigated for a nationally representative population of children and adolescents of Korea. In addition, major determinants of urinary paraben levels were identified. For this purpose, the children, and adolescents (n=2355, 3-18 years of age) who participated in the Korean National Environmental Health Survey cycle 3 (2015-2017) were studied. Adjusted multiple linear regression models were employed to investigate the relationships of several potential demographic and behavioral determinants of exposure, with the urinary levels of three parabens; methyl, ethyl, and propyl paraben. Methyl and propyl paraben levels of the Korean children and adolescents were comparable to those of the US, but the high exposure group (95th percentile) showed much higher levels of exposure. Moreover, urinary ethyl paraben levels are always higher than those of other countries. The uses of personal care products including liquid soaps, fragrance products, nail polish, or antiseptic products were significantly associated with urinary paraben levels. In addition, dietary sources such as fast food and canned food consumption were identified as major contributors to ethyl paraben levels. For methyl and propyl parabens, the use of fever medications and ointments were identified as major determinants of the exposure, especially among the younger children of 3-5 years of age. These observations are related to the Korean regulations that permit the use of the parabens as preservatives in foods and medications. The findings demonstrate that the exposure profile of parabens among Korean children are unique, and mitigation efforts for some parabens are required in Korea. Further studies are warranted to confirm the exposure sources of parabens and to develop mitigation measures among Korean children and adolescents.

Spatial variation in scent emission within flowers

Floral scent is considered an important long‐distance signal that attracts pollinators, but also has been suggested to function at shorter distances such as within‐flower nectar guides or as a defense against antagonists. Indeed, in some species floral scent production and emission show spatial patterns of variation within flowers, as certain compounds are exclusively emitted from specific floral tissues. In other species, the different volatile organic compounds that constitute the floral bouquet are emitted evenly from the entire flower. Here, we summarize the current evidence on floral scent variation within flowers by combining a literature review of published data on tissue‐level floral scent variation (41 species) with floral scent dissections (17 species). For each species, we recorded the total number of volatile compounds separately and grouped in major chemical classes. To facilitate comparisons across diverse species, we compared volatiles emitted by 1) the whole flower, 2) the visual floral tissues (i.e. petals and colored structures), 3) non‐visual floral tissues (i.e. green parts and reproductive structures), as well as 4) the compounds emitted by both visual and non‐visual tissues. Results show that floral scent variation is frequent, but by no means ubiquitous, occurring in species from distantly related groups. We discuss the two main functional hypotheses promoting floral scent variation within flowers, i.e. as a pollinator attractant at short‐distances or a defensive function against antagonists, together with non‐functional hypotheses (e.g. pleiotropic effects, ecological costs). We point out further directions on this topic and suggest experimental approaches testing the attractiveness of compounds emitted by different floral parts alone and in combination with other floral signals. Our synthesis provides a foundation for future studies on the functional ecology of floral scent and reinforces the idea of high complexity in floral chemical signals.

Extraction and characterization of aromatic essential oils for natural perfume formulation

The purpose of this study was to extract essential oils from selected medicinal and aromatic plant leaves and flowers for natural perfume formulation. Fragrant essential oils were extracted from Lavandula angustifolia (leaves and flowers) (1.30%), Cymbopogon martini (leaves) (1.04%), Rosmarinus officinalis (leaves) (0.91%), Cymbopogon nardus (leaves) (0.83%), Juniperus procera (fruit) (2.3 %), and Thymus schimperi (leaves) (1.17%) by using steam distillation, whereas resin was obtained from Boswellia papyrifera (5%) using Soxhlet extractor (hexane), both extractants were analyzed by GC-MS. Camphor (21.19%), α-Thujene (16.29%), endo-borneol (14.08%), β-pinene (9.22%) and α-pinene (7.07%) in L. angustifolia; geraniol (40.89%), β-Myrcene (9.34%), 2,4,6,octatriene,2,6-dimethyl (8.20%), β–ocimene (5.93%) in C. martini; α- pinene (38%), eucalyptol (27.76%), caryophyllene (7.37%) and bornanone (7.27%) in R. officinalis; α-pinene (85.68%) and α-Sabinene (13%) in J. procera; citronellal (38.21%), citronellol (23.16%) and 3-carene (14.26%) of C. nardus and Incensole (53.%) and Pulespenone (46.95%) from resins of B. papyrifera were found as major components. Local perfumes were formulated using different proportions of fragrance essential oils and ethyl alcohol as a solvent. The main chemical compounds that are found in fragrant essential oils such as linalool, geraniol, citronellol, α-pinene, β-pinene, citronellal and eucalyptol determined the perfume scent. The panelist hedonic test showed that the first chosen perfume containing, L. angustifolia as top note; C. martini as a middle note and B. papyrifera as a base note and the second one containing C. nardus as top note; R. officinalis as a middle note and B. papyrifera as base note. Generally, the selected essential oils could be used as a substitute for the production of natural perfume for Air freshener or body splash after further toxicological tests are performed on the product.

Advances in the microbial synthesis of aromatic fragrance molecules

Aromatic compounds make up a large part of fragrances and are traditionally produced by chemical synthesis and direct extraction from plants. Chemical synthesis depends on petroleum resources and has disadvantages such as causing environment pollutions and harsh reaction conditions. Due to the low content of aromatic compounds in plants and the low yield of direct extraction, plant extractions require large amounts of plant resources that occupy arable land. In recent years, with the development of metabolic engineering and synthetic biology, microbial synthesis of aromatic compounds from renewable resources has become a promising alternative approach to traditional methods. This review describes the research progress on the synthesis of aromatic fragrances by model microorganisms such as Escherichia coli or yeast, including the synthesis of vanillin through shikimic acid pathway and the synthesis of raspberry ketone through polyketide pathway. Moreover, this review highlights the elucidation of native biosynthesis pathways, the construction of synthetic pathways and metabolic regulation for the production of aromatic fragrances by microbial fermentation.

The Influence of the Global Perfumery Market on the Principles of the Formation of a Tourist Flow

Based on the research results, it was concluded that the formation of world tourist flows essentially depends on the level of development of the perfume industry within the country and the individualization of the population’s income in this direction.This material also describes the history of the production of perfumes, special attention is paid to the leading centers for the production of raw materials, semi-finished products and finished products. To clarify the results, an analysis of the perfumery industry market was carried out for specific geographic regions, and the balance of forces in the global perfumery and cosmetics industry was determined. A typology of various countries of the world has been created according to the nature of perfumery and cosmetic products.The article’s authors also identified the key players in the global perfumery market, identified individual market segments and trends in their development. It became possible to explain the reasons for the development of world tourism in the growth of the perfume market. The work also proposes a definition of perfume tourism, which at its core takes into account the commodity-money relations that arise during the journey. The experimental part of the study made it possible to determine consumers’ attitudes to perfume tourism and its peculiarities.

Development of Clostridium saccharoperbutylacetonicum as a Whole Cell Biocatalyst for Production of Chirally Pure (R)-1,3-Butanediol.

Chirally pure (R)-1,3-butanediol ((R)-1,3-BDO) is a valuable intermediate for the production of fragrances, pheromones, insecticides and antibiotics. Biotechnological production results in superior enantiomeric excess over chemical production and is therefore the preferred production route. In this study (R)-1,3-BDO was produced in the industrially important whole cell biocatalyst Clostridium saccharoperbutylacetonicum through expression of the enantio-specific phaB gene from Cupriavidus necator. The heterologous pathway was optimised in three ways: at the transcriptional level choosing strongly expressed promoters and comparing plasmid borne with chromosomal gene expression, at the translational level by optimising the codon usage of the gene to fit the inherent codon adaptation index of C. saccharoperbutylacetonicum, and at the enzyme level by introducing point mutations which led to increased enzymatic activity. The resulting whole cell catalyst produced up to 20 mM (1.8 g/l) (R)-1,3-BDO in non-optimised batch fermentation which is a promising starting position for economical production of this chiral chemical.

Isolasi Senyawa Anti Bakteri Geraniol Dari Minyak Sereh Wangi (Citronella Oil) Dengan Menggunakan Distilasi Vakum

This study aims to increase geraniol levels in citronella oil, using vacuum distillation. Geraniol is a compound that has been legalized by IFRA (Fragrance International Association) as a scent compound, so geraniol is a reference to be formulated in the form of Anti-bacterial perfume products, but the levels of geraniol in citronella oil are still very low. This encourages the processing of fragrant citronella oil to be processed, by increasing geraniol levels using vacuum distillation, with variations in pressure: 8,6,4,2,1 mbar, during operating times: 20, 40, and 60 minutes up to FBP ( Final Boiling Point). Samples were analyzed using GC-MS (Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry), FT-IR, refractive index, and bacterial testing. The results showed that the use of low pressure affected increasing geraniol levels. The maximum increase in geraniol content was 80.11% at a pressure of 1 mbar at the Final Boiling Point operation, with a refractive index of 1.501, whereas in the FTIR test there was an intense broad peak in the range 2200-3200 cm-1 especially at 3086.98cm-1 according to the OH hydroxyl polymer group at Geraniol. This study increased geraniol levels from 20.32% to 80.11%.

BIO-CONTROL EFFICIENCY OF PSEUDOMONAS FLUORESCENS AGAINST STEM ROT OF TUBEROSE CAUSED BY SCLEROTIUM ROLFSII

Tuberose is an important crop for cut flower and decorations which is a important raw material for the production of high grade perfumes. Last few year very severely affected several pest and diseases. Recent days it was affected by stem rot of tuberose is an important disease that affects the quality of flowers, being a soil borne plant pathogen. In India among the soil-borne fungal diseases of tuberose, stem rot caused by S. rolfsii is a potential threat to production and is of considerable economic significance for tuberose. This disease causes severe damage during any stage of crop growth, and yield losses. Chemical compounds have been used to control plant disease but it has adverse effect that creates health hazards for humans and other non-target organisms. The development of safer and environmentally feasible plant disease control alternative has become a top priority. In this context, biological control becomes an urgently needs for modern agriculture. Hence, an attempt was madebio efficacy of biocontrol against for the management of stem rot of tuberose bio-control agents are seems to better management alternative methods than chemical control. The results revealed that ten isolates P. fluorescens, Pf7 has recorded effective against S. rolfsii. These isolates are further subjected to morphological and biochemical characterization of plant growth promoting activity. All the native P. fluorescens isolates tested significantly inhibited the mycelial growth of S. rolfsii However, among the isolate Pf7 showed the maximum growth inhibition of S. rolfsii up to 75.94 per cent. This was followed by the isolates Pf9 and Pf5) in the decreasing order and the least growth inhibition of pathogen was exhibited by the isolates Pf6. The mycelial growth of S. rolfsii was found to be reduced with an increase in the conc. of culture filtrates of P. fluorescens, when compared to untreated control.

Probiotic potential of γ-aminobutyric acid (GABA)–producing yeast and its influence on the quality of cheese

Kazakh cheese is a traditional dairy product in Xinjiang, China. To study the function and potential probiotic characteristics of yeast in Kazakh cheese and its contribution to cheese fermentation, we screened the γ-aminobutyric acid (GABA)-producing yeasts Pichia kudriavzevii 1-21, Kluyveromyces marxianus B13-5, Saccharomyces cerevisiae DL6-20, and Kluyveromyces lactis DY1-10. We investigated the potential probiotic properties of these strains and their use in cheese fermentation (cheeses designated CSP, CSM, CSS, and CSI, respectively); a control with no added yeast was designated CS. The results showed that the 4 yeast strains all showed high self-polymerization (2- and 24-h autoaggregation capacity of >80 and 90%, respectively), hydrophobicity (40-92% variation, low hydrophobicity in xylene, but within the range of probiotics), and the ability to survive the gastrointestinal tract (survival rate >75% after simulation), indicating the probiotic ability of the strains in vitro. The GABA production capacity of the CSM cheese increased (to 95.6 mg/100 g), but its protein content did not change significantly, and amino acid degradation was obvious. The GABA production capacity of the CSS cheese decreased (to 450 mg/kg); its protein content declined, and its amino acid content increased. Except for water and protein, we found no obvious differences in most physical and chemical indicators. Kluyveromyces marxianus B13-5 helped to form the desired texture. Multivariate statistical analysis showed that fermentation of the cheese with the 4 yeasts improved the production of esters and alcohols. The CSS cheese had good aroma production performance, because S. cerevisiae DL6-20 produced high concentrations of isoamyl alcohol, hexanoic acid ethyl ester, benzyl alcohol, octanoic acid ethyl ester, 3-hydroxy-2-butanone, and hexanoic acid; the content of 2-methyl-propanoic acid was low. Compared with the CSP cheese, the CSI and CSM cheeses had a fruitier aroma and a milder odor, but the CSI and CSM cheeses had high concentrations of ethyl acetate, butanoic acid, ethyl ester, 3-methyl-1-butanol-acetate, ethyl hexanoate, ethyl octanoate, acetic acid 2-phenylethyl ester, and ethyl lactate; concentrations of 3-methyl-butanoic acid, propanoic acid, acetic acid, and butanoic acid were low. The CSP cheese had stronger acid-producing ability. The order of fragrance production performance was CSS > CSI, CSM > CSP > CS. Research into the fermentation mechanisms of GABA-producing yeast in cheese will provide a theoretical basis for the quality control and industrial production of Kazakh cheese.

Increasing added-value of styrax resin through post-harvesting techniques improvement and essential oil based product innovation

Styrax resin is a major non-timber forest product from North Sumatra, Indonesia. However, thousands tons of raw resin are sent abroad, while various styrax oil-based products worth US millions dollars are imported annually. Limited harvesting and processing technology are some of root of causes the lack of styrax oil-based industry development in Indonesia. The objective of this paper was an overview of styrax forest management in North Sumatra, efforts to increase the added-value both quality and quantity of resin, and an alternative processing of raw material into a perfume innovation. Benzoin resin is produced by the injured inner epithelial bark of styrax tree. Therefore, tapping of bark is the best effort to harvest the resin. But, styrax forest management has been carried out traditionally, including harvesting techniques. One of scheme to increase added-value is resins processing into a perfume products with high economic value. The innovative products begin from extracting a solid styrax resin into pure essential oil. There are two methods used, namely (a) extraction with solvent, and (b) distillation method. The amount of yield of benzoin oil produced by solvent method is influenced by incense grade from 23.9 to 34.6% and higher than another method. But distillation method also produces high quality and quantity of hydrosol (side product) with a distinctive aroma. Combined with various essential oils from Indonesia’s tropical forests, the styrax oil becomes a fixing agent for a signature perfume that formulated by considering the gradation of aroma in accordance with release of constituent essential oil particles. Processing resin into an essential oil increases the added-value of styrax resin. Innovation of styrax resin based products will explore the fragrance formulation of this commodities therefore reduce our country dependence on imported perfume and raw materials used for various personal cares.

Structural injustice and the Requirements of Beauty

Structural injustice and the Requirements of Beauty

Rapid analysis of fragrance allergens by dielectric barrier discharge ionization mass spectrometry.

Fragrances are organic compounds with pleasant odors that are widely used in every aspect of our daily life; some fragrance ingredients can cause allergic reactions. Hence, the qualitative and quantitative analysis of fragrance allergens can prevent consumers coming into contact with these compounds. In this study, we evaluated the ability of a dielectric barrier discharge ionization (DBDI) source for analyzing allergens that occur in fragrances. A home-built liquid-infusion device was used to evaporate the liquid samples. An active capillary plasma ionization source, which is based on a dielectric barrier discharge, was used to ionize the analytes. Mass spectra were acquired in positive ion mode with an LTQ Orbitrap mass spectrometer. Seven typical fragrance allergens were analyzed in this study. The limits of detections (LODs) were as low as 0.0001 ppm and a linear dynamic range of 2-3 orders of magnitude was achieved. Allergens in five different perfume products were successfully analyzed and quantified by this method, with analysis times of less than 1 min per sample. This work introduces a DBDI-MS-based analytical method for detecting and quantifying fragrance allergens. Since DBDI has the advantages of high sensitivity, simple operation and fast analysis time, it is very suitable for the rapid analysis of trace allergens in fragrances, and could easily be used for quality control of consumer products in the cosmetics market.