KES-F System Research Articles

Kawabata Analysis of Cotton Denim Fabrics Treated with Industrial Washing Techniques

ABSTRACT Garment washing of denim fabrics is essential for fading of color, aesthetic effects, vintage look and improvement in handle properties of resulting garments. Denim fabrics of two types, one standard fabric (non-stretch) and other with 2% elastane fiber (stretch), are washed with different industrial washing techniques on Tonello sampling machine. The objective evaluation of handle and mechanical properties of the washed samples are carried out on Kawabata evaluation system (KES-F). Five main characteristics of fabrics are evaluated on KES-F system. The mechanical properties like tensile energy, extensibility and compression energy have increased for both stretch and non-stretch fabrics, while bending stiffness and bending hysteresis have decreased for both types of washed fabrics. The geometrical surface roughness and coefficient of friction have slightly increased after employed washing techniques. The optical microscope is used to investigate the surface changes of the fabric after the employed washing techniques.

Optical method for the determination of the roughness profile of woven fabrics

Surface properties are important characteristics of textile fabrics. Apart from the tactile characteristics of the fabric, these properties can affect aspects of the fabric behaviour both in use and during further production processes. Fabric tactile characteristics and friction properties are just two of the properties connected to surface roughness. Typically surface roughness is determined using the KES-F system. This research paper proposes an innovative optical method for the measurement of fabric surface roughness based on image processing of photos of fabric cross-sections obtained through the stereoscopic microscope. Thirty parametric cotton woven fabrics were tested both in the warp and weft direction and the surface roughness for each fabric was obtained as a percentage of the void areas on the surface of the fabric.

Characterization of atmospheric pressure plasma treated wool/cashmere textiles: Treatment in nitrogen

We performed atmospheric pressure plasma treatments of wool/cashmere (15/85%) textiles with a dielectric barrier discharge (DBD) in nitrogen. The chemical properties of the plasma treated samples were investigated with attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared (FTIR/ATR) spectroscopy, X-ray photoelectron microscopy (XPS), and fatty acid gas chromatographic analysis. Changes in mechanical properties and tactile performance of textiles after the plasma treatment were determined using the KES-F system. The analyses reveal significant surface modification of the treated fabrics, which enhances their surface wettability.

Human-Friendly Design of Virtual System “female Body-dress”

Abstract Recently, the development efforts focused on the computer simulation of garments, which depend on the material's physico-mechanical properties. It intends to achieve the best possible and realistic simulations of garments, which are available for pressure prediction. In this manner, 3D garment virtual technology improvements allow the visualization of pressure areas with values where the fabric might be too tight against the body. Although the purposes of simulation graphics were acceptable, the accuracy for apparel shaping is not enough to meet the needs of Virtual Prototyping and CAD utilization especially while the fabric properties system design was inadequate. Moreover, the existing pressure simulation is intended to simply predict the pressure index or how the textile deformation extend, which are deficient in real human's perception. In this research, the 3D shapes belonging to typical female bodies and dresses made of different fabrics were obtained by 3D body scanners (ScanWorX and TELMAT). Through reconstruction for the 3D torso shapes, the volumetric eases between body and dress were calculated by means of a software Rhinoceros. A new approach for the selection of textile properties based on the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) was proposed to investigate its relations with dress shaping and pressure comfort. Finally, fabric properties tested by the KES-F system were compared with volumetric eases, objective pressure indexes and subjective comfort scores to reveal the relations how the fabric properties have impacts on dress outside shaping and inside pressure comfort of a female body. In this manner, the human-friendly CAD instead of mechanical approach existing before has been presented as a new approach to promote the construction of a realistic system for the 3D simulation optimization.

Fabric hand of a dry finished wool fabric

The appearance and hand of end-use fabrics has become more and more important when purchasing textile fabrics. The finishing parameters have complex influences on the large number of changes that occur in fabric properties during finishing processes. This study focused on the influences of different finishing parameters on mechanical and surface properties in order to discover the most appropriate finishing process according to the requirements of fabric handle and appearance. The KES-F system was used to evaluate fabric hand objectively, as well as the mechanical and surface properties of a woven wool fabric. Four finishing processes were selected, which differed in relation to the temperature when drying (T1=160 C, T2=180 C) and processing conditions during autoclave decatizing (T1=95 C, p1=0.4 bar, T2=110 C, p2=1 bar). The effect of the influential parameters inside four different finishing processes on the mechanical properties and hand of a selected woven fabric was evaluated using the analysis of variance. The results show that tensile properties are much more influenced by the belt pressing process while bending and shear properties are influenced by continuous decatizing process, which is the process that mostly improves fabric stability at the beginning of the dry finishing cycle. When the primary and total hand values were observed, it could be seen that applying chemicals during belt pressing had some consequences, the impacts of which could be observed directly in the resulting hand values.

Handle analysis of Cosmetic Textiles and its Correlation with Subjective haracteristics -Focus on puff textile-

This study examined the correlation between a handle evaluation of cosmetic puff textile and a sensory evaluation. The KES-F system was used to analyze the main mechanical factors for the handle evaluation and a statistical method was used for the sensory evaluation. The results revealed different mechanical properties and handle values of the tested cosmetic puff textiles. A material type and structure of the cosmetic textile affected the handle property of the material which is the most important factor for a cosmetic purpose. Particularly, the physical properties of textile material are likely to be important factors for the sensory property of cosmetic material. In addition, the sensory evaluation also revealed different sensory characteristics of the cosmetic efficiency according to the cosmetic puff textile. No close relationship was observed between the mechanical properties and sensory evaluation on the cosmetic puff textiles. The sensory evaluation of a cosmetic efficiency is not only decided by the physical and mechanical characteristics of the cosmetic textile material. Overall, when using textiles used for the cosmetic purposes, it is important to consider not only the proper mechanical properties of the textiles but also the use and sensory satisfaction. Development and selection of the cosmetic textiles should be focused on both the material function and consumer satisfaction.

Improved Discrimination and Prediction of Drapability of Fabrics

A garment is regarded as desirable and beautiful if it covers the body with harmony and gracefulness. High drape, lightweight and soft handle fabrics are in demand, particularly for womenswear garments such as dresses, shirts, skirts, trousers and suits. Fabric drapability can be measured by a number of drapemeters for different modes of drapability such as static, dynamic and revolving. It has been shown that the drape coefficients, Ds , Dd and Dr , associated with these respective modes of drapability can be predicted from a combination of measurements from the KES-F system (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics). In this paper we present the results of our studies on the prediction of drapability of lightweight wool fabrics, based on the KES-F system and drape coefficient predictive equations. It has been shown that the parameters Dr/Ds and Dd/Ds , called Indices of Drape Fluidity, Ir and Id , express the fluid drape behaviour better than Ds , Dr , D200 and Dd . This is because they discriminate and predict the drapability of fabrics better. Ir and Id have higher CV% than the Dr and Dd data, and therefore represent greater relative dispersion in a fabric group for drape. Various drape parameters of a group of wool fabrics have been compared with the four groups of polyester Shingosen fabrics, namely, New Silky, New Worsted, Rayon Touch and Peach Face, which are recognised for their soft fluid drape.

Performance and Durability of Woven Fabrics Including Recycled Polyester Fibers

Textiles including polyester fibers made from recycled PET bottles have increased to be produced recently. We examined on performance and durability of woven fabrics that include recycled polyester fibers. First, forty-eight commercially available fabrics which include polyester fibers made from PET bottles were collected, and their mechanical, surface and thermal/moisture/air transport properties were measured with the KES-F system for making clear the performance. Second, their durability was investigated by washing repeatedly. The performance of the fabrics had the tendency to increase the values of bending rigidity B and shear stiffness G with the increase of the rate of recycled polyester fibers. The results of durability tests showed that the values of B and G were decreased by washing repeatedly, and that fatigue action such as increasing of hysteresis and decreasing of resilience was not observed clearly.

Bias-extension Measurements on Woven Fabrics

Bias-extension measurements of fabric deformation are compared with simple-shear measurements of the same deformation. Occasional significant differences between the results of the two tests correspond with the occurrence of sample buckling in the simple-shear test instrument (part of the KES-F system). This result contributes to the conclusion that the bias-extension test is the one more appropriate for industrial use.

Low Stress Mechanical Properties of Silk Fabric Degummed by Different Methods

Mulberry silk fabric has been degummed by using five different methods (acid, alkali, triethylamine, soap and enzyme) and the results compared in terms of handle properties. Low stress mechanical properties tested on the KESF system have been used to evaluate the hand values. Soap has been taken as the standard method of degumming and the other treatments have been compared with this method. Significant differences in the low stress properties have been observed for the different treatments. Soap, alkali and TEA methods score over the acid and enzymatic methods in terms of handle properties, Low shear and surface properties characterise the acid and enzyme degummed samples indicating non-uniform removal of gum from the interlacing areas. The whiteness index has also been measured.

Fabric Objective Measurement: A Comparative Study of Fabric Characteristics

The general characteristics of eight fabric groups as measured by the KES-F system are described. These fabric groups are divided by fibre content, fabric construction and special finishing treatment. Using silk fabric as a reference, caustic-reduced polyester fabrics exhibit strong silk-like characteristics except in their surface properties. Liquid ammonia-treated cotton fabrics also possess a certain silky hand. Micro-fibre fabrics are soft and smooth, but they do not have the high Kishimi hand which is typical of silk fabrics. Fabric construction has some influence on fabric stiffness, but not on hysteresis. Polyester-lining fabrics have high bending stiffness and polyester/cotton fabrics have very high shear stiffness and hysteresis. These two groups of fabrics are the least silk-like. Shear properties and bending hysteresis appear to be the most important factors affecting the hand of the fabrics studied.

Physical Interpretations of Curves Obtained through the Fabric Extraction Process for Handle Measurement

The major issues dealt with in this article are the possibility and principles of measuring multiple fabric properties with a single testing process, the fabric extraction method, which has been applied to handle measurement and evaluation. A theoretical model proposed by Alley is presented with some modifications to simulate the shape of the curve obtained using the fabric extraction method. Also, various approaches are used to explore the physical interpretations of the curve. Relations between fabric properties measured using the KES-F system and the data derived from the extraction curves are discussed so as to reveal specific practical meanings. An extraction curve can be characterized by five geometric features derived from that curve. These features can be treated as the indicators of fabric properties and are closely related to such properties as drape coefficient and crease recovery angle. The effects of fiber content and fabric construction on the shape of the curve are also demonstrated, indicating that the extraction method may be used for fabric identification or recognition.

Tailoring Process Control

The KESF system, which was developed for the objective measurement of fabric handle, provided precise measurements of fabric mechanical properties in the low-load range, which was enough to apply them to tailoring process control. The joint research of the present authors began in 1975 with the accumulation of a database for the relation between fabric processability and the making-up of men's suits, which had been produced by the industrial line-production system initiated around 1975. Following this development, some pioneering trials of tailoring process control based on fabric objective data were initiated by Ito, and he set this system in practice at his company on a suit-production line. After these trials, similar control systems were initiated into different companies. The engineering of suit manufacture on the basis of objective measurement has now become popular in the tailoring industry in Japan. Some of the essential points of the tailoring-industry control initiated by Ito with the assistance...

The KES-F System and Its Applications

The KES-F System and Its Applications

APPLICATION OF OBJECTIVE MEASUREMENT TO CLOTHING MANUFACTURE

The application of objective measurement of the mechanical properties of fabrics in the apparel industry began around 1975 in the Hirakata area, which is one of the centres of men's suit production in Japan. At that time the KESF system had been developed and thereafter spread rapidly. The measurement of mechanical data under low‐load level by the KESF provided useful information for the apparel engineers who needed some means of fabric measurement by which the tailoring process might be controlled. The fabric dimensional stability testing using steam press was also standardised at that time (HESC 103A method). At present, the KESF data and the stability data are essential for apparel engineers and are used widely in the Japanese apparel industry. In addition to the use of objective measurements in each factory, a centre for objective fabric inspection has been recently initiated in the Hirakata area, for the inspection and control of fabric by the objective system for tailoring process control. In addition, a co‐operative work between the apparel engineers and the university has been carried out to develop a new equation for predicting the good appearance of a suit on the basis of fabric mechanical data. Automatic tailoring such as automatic overfeed action on the basis of fabric mechanical property is also carried out under the co‐operation of the university, the apparel industry, and a sewing machine manufacturer (Juki) in Hirakata. The progress of these projects is presented.

Error Analysis of Measurements Made with the KES-F System

An analysis of the errors observed in measuring fabrics with the KES-F system is described. The difference between repeated measurements on the same sample is not significant for all practical purposes if the fabric is allowed to recover between tests. The variation of measured properties is more significant across the fabric width,than along a fabric length of similar distance. One compressional parameter, one shear parameter, and two tensile parameters show significant variation due to operator effects.

Effect of Solvent Treatments on the Handle of Wool Fabrics

The KES-F system has been used to investigate solvent treatments of wool, in par ticular dry cleaning and solvent scouring. Solvent scouring is compared to similar aqueous treatments by both objective and subjective measurements.

Investigation of the Effect of Water Repellent Finishes on the Mechanical Properties of Textiles Using the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics

The KES-F system has been used to study the "handle" of a range of water repellent fabrics. Variations in the behaviour of the dry and wet mechanical proper ties of water repellent fabrics was observed. The effect of a water repellent/softener on the handle of a cotton fabric was examined and the effectiveness of the "permanent softener" to laundering evaluated.

A Study of the Mechanical Properties of Woven Silk Fabrics. Part I: Fabric Mechanical Properties and Handle Characterizing Woven Silk Fabrics

In order to investigate the soft handle of woven silk fabrics, their basic tensile, bending, shearing, compressional, and surface properties were measured on the KESF system. Fabric shear, compress...

Variation of Fabric Mechanical Properties Related to Handle During Chemical Aftertreatment

In this paper, the effect of mercerising on the mechanical properties of cotton fabrics related to handle has studied. The fabric mechanical properties have been evaluated by the KES-F system. The results are summarizad as follows : (1) The bending properties (B and 2HB), compressing resilience (RC) and tensile resilience (RT) has considerably increased by the mercerising process, but the shearing histeresis has been decreased remarkably. (2) The grey mercerised fabric has decreased remarkably in the values of the bending (B and 2HB) and shearing properties (G and 2HG) in comparison with the normal mercerised fabrics.