KES-F System Research Articles

Variation of Fabric Mechanical Properties Related to Handle During Chemical Aftertreatments

In this paper, the effect of textile bleaching, i. e., desizing, scouring and bleaching, on the mechanical properties of cotton fabrics related to handle has studied.The fabric mechanical properties has measured by the KES-F system. The results are summarized as follows : (1) The mechanical properties has changed remarkably by the desizing process. The values of bending rigidity (B), bending hysteresis (2HB), shear stiffness (G), shearing hysteresis (2HG and 2HG5), tensile linearity (LT) and tensile resilience (RT) have remarkably been decreased by the desizing, but the mean value coefficient of friction (MIU) has been increased. (2) The mechanical properties of the desized fabrics has been changed by the desizing agents as an enzyme and an oxidizer. The values of B, 2HB, G, 2HG and 2HG5 for the enzyme process are lower than that of the oxidizer process. (3) After the desizing process, the mechanical properties has been changed gradually by the scouring and bleaching process. The values of B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5, MIU and RC have been increased considerably, but the value of WC has been decreased by these process.

An Analysis of Dynamic Drape of Woven Fabric

In order to investigate dynamic drape of woven fabric, vibrational property of weave was analysed theoretically and experimentally. The motion of weave was considered to be shear deformation and the shear vibrational property was analysed using differential equation. Vibration tester, which was modified KES-LABOMODEL shear tester, was used to examine the motion of the weave. It was shown that weave with buckling like sine wave (buckled-shaped weave) was considered to be equivalent to plate-shaped weave by some correction of weave characteristics such as shear stiffness and weave mass. Women's thin dress fabrics were examined their vibrational properties and their amplitude angles of vibration decreased linearly with time. This means that their shear vibration damp by frictional effect between fibres and/or between warp and weft yarns in the weave and that viscostic effect in the weave can be neglected in the range observed. Viscostic effect of air resistance is also neglected when the length of weave is small (smaller than 0.1 m), but it becomes distinct if the length is large (larger than 0.5 m).The amplitude damping angle is in proportion to 2HGo/Go which are characteristic values of weave shear property measured by KESF system.

Measurements of Mechanical Properties of Thin Dress Fabrics for Hand Evaluation

In order to distinguish the fabric hand by their mechanical properties, the suitable mechanical condition such as deformation range to be measured is important. The KESF system is now becoming one of popular systems to determine the fabric mechanical properties relating to the fabric hand. However, the standard measuring conditions of the KESF have been developed, up to this time, for the medium thick fabrics such as men's suitings. In the case of thinner fabrics classified as women's thin-dress fabrics, the standard conditions have been not necessarily the optimum condition. In this report, the “high sensitivity” conditions for both tensile and compression testings are proposed for the measurements of thin dress fabrics by the KESF system. In the tensile property measurement of the high sensitivity condition, the range of the tensile load is 1/10 of the stnadard condition and the sensitivity of force and strain detection is magnified by 10 times. In compression testing, the pressure range is also 1/5 of the standard. These small deformation measurements provide more clear distinction in fabric mechanical properties among thin dress fabrics. The difference is demonstrated in the mechanical properties between silk and silk-like polyester fabrics by using the measurements of high sensitivity conditions.

スパンライク モディフィケーションの動向 機能面よりみたスパンライク糸の評価

Some properties of our newly developed spun-like nylon yarn and fabrics called“Trim”were evaluated and compared with those of conventional false twist yarns spun yarns and so on.It was proved that“Trim”could keep suitable roughness, irregu-larity and bulkiness even when stretched, which are essentially needed for spun-like yarns.Further more features, physical and functional properties of some fabrics were tested. In the evaluation of physical properties, spun-like yarn was defined to have small deviations in results of tests on 14 physical proper ties authorized in KES-F system compared with polyester cotton blended broad cloth and knitted fabrics of cotton.It was found that“Trim”fabrics had antiglaze surface and high bulkiness, and that the deviations described above were very small. Consequently, “Trim”fabrics were more improved in its functional properties such as insulation and moisture absorption than the fabrics of conventional synthetic fibers.