Fabric hand of a dry finished wool fabric

Abstract

The appearance and hand of end-use fabrics has become more and more important when purchasing textile fabrics. The finishing parameters have complex influences on the large number of changes that occur in fabric properties during finishing processes. This study focused on the influences of different finishing parameters on mechanical and surface properties in order to discover the most appropriate finishing process according to the requirements of fabric handle and appearance. The KES-F system was used to evaluate fabric hand objectively, as well as the mechanical and surface properties of a woven wool fabric. Four finishing processes were selected, which differed in relation to the temperature when drying (T1=160 C, T2=180 C) and processing conditions during autoclave decatizing (T1=95 C, p1=0.4 bar, T2=110 C, p2=1 bar). The effect of the influential parameters inside four different finishing processes on the mechanical properties and hand of a selected woven fabric was evaluated using the analysis of variance. The results show that tensile properties are much more influenced by the belt pressing process while bending and shear properties are influenced by continuous decatizing process, which is the process that mostly improves fabric stability at the beginning of the dry finishing cycle. When the primary and total hand values were observed, it could be seen that applying chemicals during belt pressing had some consequences, the impacts of which could be observed directly in the resulting hand values.