Abstract
In order to get more wool-like polyester weave in the point of fabric hand, the best design of polyester weave with high-shrinkage fibers was investigated using variance analysis in orthogonal array. The effect of yarn structure and yarn density were inspected. 16 fabrics of 2/2-twill gaberdine were produced and their mechanical properties were measured using KES-FB system. Primary hand values and total hand value (THV) were calculated by conversion equations developed by Kawabata and Niwa. It was shown that THV became the highest when the high-shrinkage polyester fibers were used as weft yarns with high density and regular polyester fibers were used as warp yarns with low density. It was proved that wool-like fabric hand could be achieved by polyester weave using adequate combination of high-shrinkage polyester fibers. The subjective evaluations of fabric quality in the point of THV by experts in laboratory and factory at Shanghai did not agree with each other, but the evaluations by consumers at Shanghai agreed well with those by Japanese experts.
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