Ingredient In Cosmetic Products Research Articles

Tyrosinase inhibitory constituents from a polyphenol enriched fraction of rose oil distillation wastewater

During the water steam distillation process of rose flowers, the non-volatile phenolic compounds remain in the waste. We recently developed a strategy to separate rose oil distillation water (RODW) into a polyphenol depleted water fraction and a polyphenol enriched fraction (RF20-SP207). Bioassay-guided investigation of RF20-SP207 led to the isolation of quercetin, kaempferol and ellagic acid. Their structures were elucidated by spectroscopic analysis as well as by comparison with literature data. Tyrosinase inhibition studies were performed with RF20-SP207, fractions I–IV, and the isolated compounds of the most active fraction. RF20-SP207 strongly inhibited the enzyme with an IC50 of 0.41μg/mL. From the tested fractions only fraction IV (IC50=5.81μg/mL) exhibited strong anti-tyrosinase activities. Quercetin, kaempferol and ellagic acid were identified in fraction IV and inhibited mushroom tyrosinase with IC50 values of 4.2μM, 5.5μM and 5.2μM, respectively, which is approximately 10 times more potent than that of the positive control kojic acid (56.1μM). The inhibition kinetics, analyzed by Lineweaver–Burk plots, indicated that RF20-SP207 and fraction IV are uncompetitive inhibitors of tyrosinase when l-tyrosine is used as a substrate. A mixed inhibition was determined for ellagic acid, and a competitive inhibition for quercetin and kaempferol. In conclusion, the recovered polyphenol fraction RF20-SP207 from RODW was found to be a potent tyrosinase inhibitor. This value-added product could be used as an active ingredient in cosmetic products related to hyperpigmentation.

Safety evaluation of traces of nickel and chrome in cosmetics: The case of Dead Sea mud

BackgroundMetal impurities such as nickel and chrome are present in natural ingredients-containing cosmetic products. These traces are unavoidable due to the ubiquitous nature of these elements. Dead Sea mud is a popular natural ingredient of cosmetic products in which nickel and chrome residues are likely to occur. ObjectiveTo analyze the potential systemic and local toxicity of Dead Sea mud taking into consideration Dead Sea muds' natural content of nickel and chrome. MethodsThe following endpoints were evaluated: (Regulation No. 1223/20, 21/12/2009) systemic and (SCCS's Notes of Guidance) local toxicity of topical application of Dead Sea mud; health reports during the last five years of commercial marketing of Dead Sea mud. Results and conclusionsFollowing exposure to Dead Sea mud, MoS (margin of safety) calculations for nickel and chrome indicate no toxicological concern for systemic toxicity. Skin sensitization is also not to be expected by exposure of normal healthy skin to Dead Sea mud. Topical application, however, is not recommended for already nickel-or chrome-sensitized persons. As risk assessment of impurities present in cosmetics may be a difficult exercise, the case of Dead Sea mud is taken here as an example of a natural material that may contain traces of unavoidable metals.

Relevance of Natural Phenolics from Grape and Derivative Products in the Formulation of Cosmetics

The consumer demand for natural ingredients in cosmetic products is increasing. Phenolic compounds are among the most studied natural antioxidant compounds, they also present antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory or antiaging actions and can permeate through the skin barrier. Grapes contain valuable phenolic components and grape byproducts are widely available low cost raw materials. This review presents an overview of the application of phenolic compounds from grape products and byproducts as sources of natural ingredients for cosmetics.

Anti-wrinkle Activities verification of Buplerum falcatum Extracts on CCD-986sk

The electron donating ability, elastase inhibitory, pro- collagen synthesis and Matrix metalloprotease-1 (MMP-1) activities were measured in order to verify the anti-wrinkle properties of extracts from Buplerum falcatum as a functional ingredient for cosmetic products. Electron donating ability and elastase inhibition activities were 80 and 52% at a dose of 1,000 µg/mL of B. falcatum 70% ethanol extract. Pro-collagen synthesis was increased with the increase concentration of B. falcatum extract on CCD-986sk in addition to decrease the amount of protein of MMP-1. The results suggested that B. falcatum extract can be used to reduced electron donating ability, elastase, pro-collagen synthesis and MMP-1 activity and is a potential candidate for cosmedical materials.

New Test-system Based on the Evaluation of Yeast Cells Resistance to Dehydration-rehydration Stress

A new test-system was developed for rapid evaluation of the cytoprotective potential of substances which can be included in cosmetics and health care compositions. It was evaluated by changes of the viability of yeast cells after dehydration/rehydration (D/R) treatment. To check the efficiency of proposed test system we studied the effects of water extracts of the natural peloid, which are used in balneotherapy procedures. It was revealed that the resistance to D/R of cells incubated in peloid water extracts (PWE) was significantly increased (by 30-38%) already after their short incubation in the solutions with low concentrations of the PWE. Meanwhile the membrane permeability was significantly decreased after incubation with PWE. The viability of yeast cells which were more sensitive to D/R stress was increased by PWE to larger extent than the viability of the cells that were initially more resistant to this stress. The positive effect PWE upon yeast cell viability after D/R treatment can be linked with the stabilisation of the cells’ plasma membrane. The results obtained in this study indicate that this new test-system can be recommended as fast, simple and cost-efficient assay for the evaluation of various substances effects upon eukaryotic cells including also the ingredients for cosmetic products.

Case of anaphylactic reaction to soy following percutaneous sensitization by soy‐based ingredients in cosmetic products

Case of anaphylactic reaction to soy following percutaneous sensitization by soy‐based ingredients in cosmetic products

Computational study of binding affinity to nuclear receptors for some cosmetic ingredients

We studied the ingredients of cosmetic products as potential endocrine disruptors (ED) by in silico methods (docking). The structures of 14 human nuclear receptors have been retrieved from the protein data bank (PDB). We only considered the mechanism linked with direct binding to nuclear receptors with well-defined crystal structures. Predictions were performed using the Endocrine Disruptome docking program http://endocrinedisruptome.ki.si/ (Kolšek et al., 2013). 122 compounds were estimated to be possible endocrine disruptors bind to at least one of the receptors, 21 of them which are predicted to be probable toxicants for endocrine disruption as they bind to more than five receptors simultaneously. According to the literature survey and lack of experimental data it remains a challenge to prove or disprove the in silico results experimentally also for other potential endocrine disruptors.

Role of micronutrients in skin health and function.

Skin is the first line of defense for protecting our bodies against external perturbations, including ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, mechanical/chemical stress, and bacterial infection. Nutrition is one of many factors required for the maintenance of overall skin health. An impaired nutritional status alters the structural integrity and biological function of skin, resulting in an abnormal skin barrier. In particular, the importance of micronutrients (such as certain vitamins and minerals) for skin health has been highlighted in cell culture, animal, and clinical studies. These micronutrients are employed not only as active compounds in therapeutic agents for treating certain skin diseases, but also as ingredients in cosmetic products. Here, the author describes the barrier function of the skin and the general nutritional requirements for skin health. The goal of this review is to discuss the potential roles and current knowledge of selected micronutrients in skin health and function.

Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products.

Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant kingdom; high amounts contain, for example, green tea and grape seeds. Polyphenolic extracts are attractive ingredients for cosmetics and pharmacy due to their beneficial biological properties. This review summarizes the effects of polyphenols in the context of anti-ageing activity. We have explored invitro studies, which investigate antioxidant activity, inhibition of dermal proteases and photoprotective activity, mostly studied using dermal fibroblasts or epidermal keratinocytes cell lines. Possible negative effects of polyphenols were also discussed. Further, some physicochemical aspects, namely the possible interactions with emulsifiers and the influence of the cosmetic formulation on the skin delivery, were reported. Finally, few clinical studies, which cover the anti-ageing action of polyphenols on the skin after topical application, were reviewed.

Estimation of the chemical-induced eye injury using a Weight-of-Evidence (WoE) battery of 21 artificial neural network (ANN) c-QSAR models (QSAR-21): Part II: Corrosion potential

This is part II of an in silico investigation of chemical-induced eye injury that was conducted at FDA’s CFSAN. Serious eye damage caused by chemical (eye corrosion) is assessed using the rabbit Draize test, and this endpoint is an essential part of hazard identification and labeling of industrial and consumer products to ensure occupational and consumer safety. There is an urgent need to develop an alternative to the Draize test because EU’s 7th amendment to the Cosmetic Directive (EC, 2003; 76/768/EEC) and recast Regulation now bans animal testing on all cosmetic product ingredients and EU’s REACH Program limits animal testing for chemicals in commerce. Although in silico methods have been reported for eye irritation (reversible damage), QSARs specific for eye corrosion (irreversible damage) have not been published. This report describes the development of 21 ANN c-QSAR models (QSAR-21) for assessing eye corrosion potential of chemicals using a large and diverse CFSAN data set of 504 chemicals, ADMET Predictor’s three sensitivity analyses and ANNE classification functionalities with 20% test set selection from seven different methods. QSAR-21 models were internally and externally validated and exhibited high predictive performance: average statistics for the training, verification, and external test sets of these models were 96/96/94% sensitivity and 91/91/90% specificity.

가미청기산(加味淸肌散)이 항산화와 염증성 사이토카인에 미치는 영향

Objectives : Gami-Chunggisan extract (GCE) is one of the oriental traditional medicine. We investigated the antioxidant effect and reduction of pro-inflammatory cytokine as a functional ingredient for cosmetic products from the GCE. Methods : GCE was prepared by extracting with 80% ethanol. We analyzed total polyphenol and antioxidant activities. To evaluate antioxidant activity, we measured 2,2'-azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) and 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH) free radical scavenging assay. Also we measured the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitric oxide (NO) on Raw264.7 cells. We researched reduction of anti-inflammatory cytokines from concentration of GCE on Raw264.7 cells. Results : Total polyphenol quantity of GCE was included 46.6 mg/g. The GCE showed ABTS free radical scavenging ability with more than 89% at <TEX>$1000{\mu}g/m{\ell}$</TEX>. In addition the DPPH free radical scavenging ability from the GCE was activated over 93% at <TEX>$1000{\mu}g/m{\ell}$</TEX>. Production of the ROS was decreased by approximately 26%, upon the GCE treatment at concentration of <TEX>$100{\mu}g/m{\ell}$</TEX>. The GCE at <TEX>$100{\mu}g/m{\ell}$</TEX> concentration showed inhibitory effect on NO production by 38%. Production of IL-<TEX>$1{\beta}$</TEX> and IL-6 were decreased by approximately 56% and 36%, respectively upon GCE treatment at <TEX>$100{\mu}g/m{\ell}$</TEX>. Also, production of TNF-<TEX>${\alpha}$</TEX> was decreased by approximately 79% at <TEX>$100{\mu}g/m{\ell}$</TEX>. Moreover, the GCE showed inhibitory effects on the expression of the IL-<TEX>$1{\beta}$</TEX>, IL-6 and TNF-<TEX>${\alpha}$</TEX> genes in LPS-induced Raw 264.7 cells. Conclusions : From the results above, we conclude that the GCE indicated significant antioxidant effects and induced reduction of pro-inflammatory cytokine.

Coupled exposure to ingredients of cosmetic products: III. Ultraviolet filters.

The use of cosmetics exposes consumers to mixtures of ingredients, many of which are potential allergens. Ultraviolet (UV) filters are used not just in sunscreens, but also in other products. Many UV filters are known contact allergens and photoallergens. To examine the pattern of co-exposure to UV filters in cosmetics. A survey of products marketed in Germany, conducted in 2006-2009 by the Chemical and Veterinary Investigation Office in Karlsruhe, identified 4447 products (of all 5667 cosmetic products examined) (i) that were categorizable according to Annex I to the Cosmetics Directive, and (ii) with information on the presence of UV filters or zinc oxide. The occurrence and co-occurrence of UV filters were analysed and presented in tabular and graphical format. UV filters or zinc oxide were present in 22.5% of all 4447 products, ranging from almost 100% in sunscreens to a few per cent in, for example, some hair products; they were absent in two product categories. Frequently, several different UV filters were included in one product, for example in sunscreens (median 4) and in perfumes (median 3). The overall most frequent UV filters were butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and titanium dioxide, combined mostly with octocrylene in sunscreens and with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate in creams. The frequent co-occurrence of UV filters in cosmetic products possibly facilitates sensitization, and may explain why patients often react to chemically unrelated UV filters.

Probiotical Cell Fragments (PCFs) as “Novel Nutraceutical Ingredients”

Probiotical cell fragments (PCFs) are structural components of the probiotic cell lysate(s) and exhibit similar beneficial effects on the host as live probiotic bacteria. With cell fragment technology (CFT?), the structural fragments are isolated and purified from live probiotic cells. While observed to be strain-dependent as in the case of live probiotics, orally administered PCFs demonstrated a broad spectrum of immune modulation functions; anti-allergy; anti-inflammation; anti-bacterial and anti-viral properties; anti-mutagenic; and radioprotective and detoxification abilities in humans and animals. The PCFs mechanisms of action include events of motifs of cell wall peptidoglycans, DNA motifs, nucleotide containing components, lipoteichoic acids (LPAs), surface layer (S-layer) proteins, and cytoplasmic proteins. Different immunological in vivo-in vitro tests have shown that PCFs, essentially, have the ability to stimulate the macrophages, and induce cytokines such as interleukins, tumor necrosis factors (TNFs), interferons (IFNs), and natural killer (NK) cells. PCFs may be used as ingredients for foods and beverages or as nutritional supplements with long term stability and shelf-life up to 5 years. PCFs may also be used as health restorative ingredients in cosmetic products. The outcome of probiotics CFT? stands as an advantage to the food and pharmaceutical industries, regarding the formulation of novel products with unadulterated sensory characteristics of origin. Hence, PCFs are being characterized here as “novel nutraceutical ingredients” for health maintenance in both humans and animals.

Sensitizing ingredients in cosmetic products for newborns and infants available in pharmacies and chemists stores

Sensitizing ingredients in cosmetic products for newborns and infants available in pharmacies and chemists stores

Coupled exposure to ingredients of cosmetic products: II. Preservatives

The use of cosmetics exposes consumers to mixtures of ingredients, many of which are potential allergens. Many cosmetics contain one or several preservatives, some being important contact allergens. To examine the pattern of co-exposure to preservatives in different categories of cosmetics. A survey of products marketed in Germany, conducted in 2006-2009 by the Chemical and Veterinary Investigation Office in Karlsruhe, identified 4680 products categorizable according to Annex I to the Cosmetics Directive with information on the presence of preservatives. The occurrence and co-occurrence of preservatives were analysed and presented in tabular and graphical format. Thirty per cent of all products were not declared to contain any preservatives; for 8%, no INCI labelling was present. For the remainder, the number of preservatives used tended to be higher in leave-on than in rinse-off products. Most often, combinations of (up to all five) parabens were used (39% of all products). Combinations with phenoxyethanol were also frequent. Formaldehyde releasers were found in 8% of products overall. The pattern of co-exposure to preservatives in important categories of cosmetic products illustrates the 'cocktail' of allergens that may facilitate sensitization, although, conversely, the combination of preservatives allows individual use levels to be kept lower, thereby possibly reducing sensitization risk.

Indoor air quality in hair salons: Screening of volatile organic compounds and indicators based on health risk assessment

Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are common ingredients in cosmetic products which can impact human health. This study monitored 12 hairdressing salons in order to assess the individual exposure of the people working in or frequenting these environments as well as identify the main products or activities responsible for the presence of these compounds. In each site halogenated, oxygenated, aliphatic and aromatic compounds were monitored during the work week with diffusive samplers suitable for thermal desorption and analysed using GC–MS. The study of indoor–outdoor concentration ratios and a knowledge of the composition of most of the products, whether ecological or traditional, used in the hair salons verified the presence of compounds linked to hairdressing activities. In particular, compounds widely used in products for hair care as spray lacquer and foam (butane), shampoo, balms, hair masks and oils (camphene, camphor, limonene, eucalyptol, alpha pinene, 1-methoxy-2-propanol, n-butanol and menthol), and hair dye (benzyl alcohol, isopropanol, limonene, hexane and methyl ethyl ketone) were found at much higher levels inside rather than outside the salons (mean I/O > 10). The importance of this finding is linked to the potential health hazards of some of the VOCs detected. Integrated indicators of health risk were proposed in this study to assess the criticality level and rank the investigated environments accordingly. The results of this study indicate that the level of VOC concentrations was most affected by the type of products used while the size of the environment, the efficiency of air exchange and the number of customers had less impact on those levels.

Coupled exposure to ingredients of cosmetic products: I. Fragrances

The use of cosmetics exposes consumers to mixtures of ingredients, many of which are contact allergens. Fragrances in particular are mostly used in combination; combinations of fragrances have been shown to enhance sensitization and elicitation. To examine the pattern of co-exposure to fragrances in different categories of cosmetics, addressing the 26 fragrances that need to be identified on the label according to the Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC amended by 2003/15/EC. A survey of products marketed in Germany, conducted in 2006-2009 by the Chemical and Veterinary Investigation Office in Karlsruhe, identified 4991 products with information on the presence of fragrances. The products were categorized according to Annex I to the Cosmetics Directive. The occurrence and co-occurrence of fragrances were analysed in tabular form and as social network diagrams. The median number of fragrances in products varied greatly between categories, ranging up to nine in perfumes. Limonene and linalool were the most commonly identified fragrances, often used together, but also with other fragrances. Thirty per cent of all products were not declared to contain any fragrances. For the first time, the pattern of co-exposure to fragrance ingredients in important categories of cosmetic products has been described. The observations illustrate and quantify the 'cocktail' of fragrance allergens that may facilitate sensitization.

Polyphenol composition and antioxidant and metal chelating activities of the solid residues from the essential oil industry

Essential oils of aromatic plants have numerous applications in fields like medicine, cosmetic and food industry. Nevertheless, the average yield of essential oil distilled from aromatic plants is below 5% (w/w) and consequently a considerable amount of solid residues is generated. These residues are especially rich in polyphenols that can be exploited as health-promoting compounds in food and feed or as anti-aging ingredients in cosmetic products, and thus to enhance the overall profitability of the aromatic plants. In this work, we have tentatively identified the polyphenols present in solid residues from the steam distillation of Cistus ladanifer, Lavandula×intermedia, Santolina rosmarinifolia and Thymus mastichina, and evaluated their antioxidant and chelating activities by means of several in vitro methods, such as the β-carotene/linoleate model system, reducing power, DPPH radical scavenging, and iron and copper ion chelation. A Soxhlet extraction and an ultrasound-assisted extraction have been used in terms of comparison. Most of the extracts whether they were obtained by Soxhlet system or by ultrasonic method showed good antioxidant activities. Soxhlet ethanolic extract of T. mastichina showed an antioxidant activity comparable to the standard red grape pomace. The influence of the total polyphenol content on the chelating activities was not as important as on the antioxidant activities and the predominant role of certain polyphenols and/or the presence in the extracts of other compounds with a favourable chemical structure to metal complexation can be assumed. This was the case of the ultrasound ethanolic extract of C. ladanifer, which was the most effective in iron chelating activity despite its medium-to-low content of total polyphenols. All these data point to profit from these aromatic plant solid residues as a valuable source of bioactive compounds.

카카오(Theobroma cacao L.) 용매 분획물의 항산화 및 항염증 효과

본 연구는 카카오를 화장품 소재로 활용하기 위하여 항산화 및 항염증 효과를 검증하여 기능성 화장품 소재로서의 가능성을 검토하였다. 아세톤 추출물을 이용하여 클로로포름층, 에틸아세테이트층, 부탄올층, 물층의 극성별로 분획을 실시하였다. 카카오 분획물의 전자공여능은 100 <TEX>${\mu}g/ml$</TEX>에서 에틸아세테이트 분획물이 76.2%, 부탄올 분획물이 53.9%의 소거능을 나타내었다. 또한, superoxide anion radical 소거능 측정 결과, 에틸아세테이트 분획물과 부탄올 분획물이 50 <TEX>${\mu}g/ml$</TEX>에서 각각 76.09%, 51.4%의 소거능이 나타났고, <TEX>$Fe^{2+}$</TEX>, <TEX>$Cu^{2+}$</TEX>의 첨가에 따른 지방산패 억제능에서 <TEX>$Fe^{2+}$</TEX>를 첨가한 군에서는 에틸아세테이트 분획물이 50 <TEX>${\mu}g/ml$</TEX>에서 64%로 <TEX>$Cu^{2+}$</TEX>를 첨가한 군보다 저해능이 높았다. 항염증 효과 측정으로 hyaluronidase 저해 활성을 측정한 결과, 부탄올 분획물의 경우 100 <TEX>${\mu}g/ml$</TEX>에서 53.04%의 저해활성을 나타내었으며, lipoxygenase 저해 활성 측정결과 10 <TEX>${\mu}g/ml$</TEX>에서 51.32%의 저해활성을 나타내었다. 대식세포를 이용한 nitric oxide (NO) 저해활성을 측정한 결과 카카오 에틸아세테이트 분획물에서 가장 높은 NO 저해활성을 나타냄을 확인할 수 있었다. 또한 대식세포 내에서 에틸아세테이트 분획물 100 <TEX>${\mu}g/ml$</TEX> 농도에서 iNOS, COX-2 단백질 발현을 저해하였다. Solvent extracts of Theobroma cacao L. (TCL) were investigated for anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects in order to consider TCL as a functional ingredient for cosmetic products. TCL(A) extract was fractioned according to polarity with <TEX>$CHCl_3$</TEX>, EtOAc, n-BuOH, and water. Following TCL(A) fractionation, the electron-donating ability of the n-BuOH and EtOAc solvent fractions (each 100 <TEX>${\mu}g/ml$</TEX>) was about 76.2% and 53.9%, respectively. The superoxide anion radical inhibitory effect of the n-BuOH and EtOAc solvent fractions (each 50 <TEX>${\mu}g/ml$</TEX>) was about 76.09% and 51.4%, respectively. Results of lipid oxidation showed that <TEX>$Fe^{2+}$</TEX> had a greater chelating effect than <TEX>$Cu^{2+}$</TEX>. The <TEX>$Fe^{2+}$</TEX> chelating effect of the EtOAc solvent fraction (50 <TEX>${\mu}g/ml$</TEX>) was about 64%. Hyaluronidase inhibition related to the anti-inflammatory effect was 53.0% with EtOAc at 100 <TEX>${\mu}g/ml$</TEX>, while the lipoxygenase inhibitory effect was about 51.32% at 10 <TEX>${\mu}g/ml$</TEX>. The anti-inflammatory activity in the EtOAc fraction inhibited the generation of nitric oxide. Results also showed that iNOS protein expression increased in RAW264.7 cells. In contrast, at 100 <TEX>${\mu}g/ml$</TEX> EtOAc, iNOS and COX-2 protein expression significantly decreased in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells.

도화(桃花, Pruni persicae Flos) 분획물의 항산화 및 항염증 효과

Objectives : The solvent extracts of Pruni persicae Flos were investigated for the activities of anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects to apply as a functional ingredient for cosmetic products. Methods : In this study, the fractions of P. persicae Flos were extracted with 70.0% acetone and purified using Sephadex LH-20 column chromatography. As a result, eight fractions were isolated. We performed MTT assay, total polyphenol contents, DPPH free radical scavenging assay, SOD-like activity, xanthine oxidase inhibition assay, astringent activity assay, hyaluronidase inhibition assay and the production of nitric oxide. Results : For anti-oxidant effects, the electron donating ability of fraction (Fr.) 2-5, Fr.-8 isolated from P. persicae Flos was above 90.0% at 100 ppm respectively. The superoxide dismutase (SOD) - like activity of Fr.-5 isolated from P. persicae Flos was 92.1% at 1,000 ppm. The xanthine oxidase inhibitory effect of Fr.-6 isolated from P. persicae Flos was about 83.3% at 1,000 ppm. Hyaluronidase inhibition activity related to the anti-inflammation effect was 94.0% for Fr.-4 isolated from P. persicae Flos at 500 ppm. In the anti-inflammation effect, the Fr.-4 isolated from P. persicae Flos inhibited the generation of nitric oxide. Conclusions : All these findings suggested that the fractions of P. persicae Flos has a great potential as a cosmeceutical ingredient with a anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.