Garment Pattern Research Articles

A knowledge-supported approach for garment pattern design using fuzzy logic and artificial neural networks

In the clothing industry, garment pattern design serves as a significant middle link between fashion design and manufacturing. With the advent of advanced multimedia techniques, like virtual reality, 3D modeling, and interactive design, this work has become more intuitive. However, it is still a tremendous knowledge-based work that relied on the experienced patternmakers’ know-how. For enterprises, it will take a long time to cultivate a patternmaker from an abecedarian to an expert. Moreover, while facing fierce competition in the market, enterprises still have to endure the pressures and risks led by the turnover of experienced patternmakers. In this context, we put forward a knowledge-supported garment pattern design approach by learning the experienced patternmakers’ knowledge based on fuzzy logic and artificial neural networks. Based on this approach, we created a knowledge-supported pattern design model, consisting of several sub-models following the garment styles, considering the properties of fabrics and fitting degree. The inputs of the model are the feature body dimensions, while the outputs, namely the pattern parameters, can be generated following the fabric and fitting degree selected. Through performance comparison with other models and the actual fitting test, the results revealed that the present approach was applicable. Our proposed approach can not only support the non-expert patternmakers or abecedarians to make decisions when developing the patterns by reducing the difficulties of patternmaking but help the enterprises to reduce the dependencies on the experts, hence promoting the efficiency and reducing risks.

Dönüştürülebilir Elbise Uygulamaları

The purpose of this study is to examine transformable dress designs that can be converted into multiple design with the same basic pattern under the umbrella of sustainable fashion in terms of design, usability and marketability. For this purpose, the study was carried out in two stages. First, a capsule collection was prepared for young women working in the upper-middle socio-cultural group, who will purchase the limited productions of national and international premium fashion brands focused on price / quality and care about sustainable fashion. In the study where the design process of the selected five dresses in this collection presented, the main idea is that each dress adapts to multiple sizes and, each dress forms can be created in different combinations from same garment pattern. Iterative design trials were carried out on the 38 size, ½ proportion and scale female miniature clothing form. How many different ways each dress can be used is calculated with the subset combination formula. In the second stage, prepared dresses; target consumer opinions about design-usability and marketability were obtained by sharing from one of the researchers' personal social media accounts. From the opinions and comments of target consumers; Although they do not decrease their shopping speeds, it is concluded that they like such designs, they are happy with their customisation, they can make emotional connection with dresses and find them marketable.As a result of the combination calculations of clothes and target consumer responses, it was pointed out that the concept of sustainability can be adapted to ready-to-wear production with transformable designs.

Assessment of the Factors Affecting Apparel Pattern Grading Accuracy: Problems Identification and Recommendations

Grading is an inseparable part of producing multiple sized patterns in clothing production. From the inception of apparel manufacturing, various methods have been developed for precision pattern grading. Nevertheless, most conventional grading systems have some flaws. The objectives of this study were to analyse traditional grading systems, identify the factors responsible for pattern grading deficiencies and finally, recommend suggestions to minimise grading problems related to the use of CAD software. For the experiments, three different measurement sheets of different buyers were collected and combined into a single specification for better comparison. All garment patterns were then drawn and graded with varying parameters. Later on, measurements of graded patterns were analysed for grading accuracy. This study presents the factors responsible for grading deficiencies and how they can be minimised for higher precision grading for the better fitting of clothing and the prevention of garment sample rejection before bulk production.

The Spanish cut: tailoring men’s fashion and national identity in nineteenth-century Spain

ABSTRACT This essay shows that middle-class men engaged with fashion often and openly in nineteenth-century Spain. Through a survey of previously unstudied archival materials, it also recasts Spanish men’s fashion as part of a larger, interconnected system of producers, distributors and consumers. By historicizing textual and visual evidence (e.g., paper garment patterns, fashion plates) printed in professional tailoring journals, the following study challenges the notion that fashion was an exclusively feminine and feminizing pursuit during the second half of the nineteenth century. Apprentices, journeymen, master cutters and their professional journals, such as El Arte Español (1871–1878), El Genio y el Arte (1881–1888) and La Moda de Madrid (1884–1887), identified fashionable ecosystems as fertile ground for the flourishing of an aspirational national image that cohered around sartorial craftsmanship and intellectual capital, pride in Spanish métiers and the cultivation of male homosocial bonds of confidence and trust.

Garment pattern making and visual syntax: an essential connection for building the project thinking

This paper describes the results achieved through an integrated assignment performed during the 2nd semester of 2019 in the undergraduate course of Fashion Design at the State University of Londrina (UEL, in the Portuguese acronym), whose pedagogical project is grounded on the Project-Based Learning (PjBL) and on an interdisciplinary approach.Conducted with the first-year students, this study intends to analyze the pedagogical efforts performed to promote the development of their ability with the formal syntax in fashion design and the garment pattern making as parts that combine to build the project thinking. In order to do so, we applied a methodological approach based on a collection of imagery boards and the organization of the MODThink model (EMÍDIO, 2018).

Development of a modular garment assembly line simulator

PurposeThe purpose of this study is to develop a modular garment assembly line simulator that can be used for various production methods such as traditional mass production or modern small quantity batch production.Design/methodology/approachFor realistic simulation, the actual shape and sewing information of the garment patterns were used. The assembly line consists of process units including the cutter, preprocessor, module assembly, final assembly, finish, and stack units. Any number of units can be arranged and connected to form various layouts. The simulation can be run at an arbitrary speed.FindingsThis system can be used to estimate the time required to process the given order for a specific layout. Therefore, it can be utilized as the basis for optimum production line design.Originality/valueThis system is expected to be utilized by garment manufacturers for obtaining the productivity improvement, production cost reduction, and increased competitiveness.

Potential application of the Hogarth curves in the modern garment

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to develop a novel method for establishing the mathematical link between the restored Hogarth curve and the golden ratio, and to advance the potential application of the Hogarth curves in standardization of the garment pattern design by using this method. Design/methodology/approach The Hogarth curve was fully restored by using the plant design system (PDS) software package and divided the restored curve into two fragments based on the intersection point between the curve and the straight line joining the curve endpoints. The ratios between two fragments of curves and straight lines were calculated and compared with the golden ratio, respectively, which was set as a normalized value. The potential application of the restored Hogarth curves in the normalization of the garment pattern design was therefore studied by using the standard mannequins. Findings The ratio in the most beautiful curve, i.e., the fourth Hogarth curve, was found to be infinitely approaching to the golden ratio. Furthermore, the incorporation of the Hogarth curves into the garment pattern design demonstrated that the fourth Hogarth curve was the most aesthetic line. Originality/value This work offered a novel method for bridging the gaps between arts and maths, i.e., the mathematical relation between the Hogarth curves and the golden ratio. Such a method will provide the protocol to promote the potential applications of the Hogarth curves in the garment pattern design and the human body decoration.

Kinematic modeling of a motorcycle rider for design of functional clothing

Purpose Whilst motorcycling is an activity of pleasure in most parts of the world, in India, it is a regular mode of commuting. The number of registered motorized two wheelers increased at the rate of 14.7 percent during the year 2016-2017 to reach the figure of 20.19m in 2018. But, with this increase, the number of motorcycle road accidents is also increasing. Uncomfortable riding clothing is one of the major factors for motorcycle rider’s muscular fatigue, which might at times lead to serious accidents. No kinematic human models have been, so far, used for the design of protective, functional and aesthetic looking products, and the result is, hence, a compromised fit that is not protective or comfortable. The purpose of this paper is to develop virtual 3D human body models for specific postures of a motorcycle rider. Design/methodology/approach Kinematic analysis of a motorcycle rider was conducted to identify typical body postures obtained by the motorcycle rider while mounting and riding a motorcycle. The identified body postures were mapped on a virtual parametric human model to obtain digital model of a motorcycle rider. 3D garment patterns for jacket and trouser were developed on all the four body postures. 3D patterns were flattened out to get 2D flat patterns that were compared and analyzed, and appropriate pattern shapes from each of the four postures were selected. Virtual fit analysis was conducted for the finally garment. Findings It is well established that a static 2D anthropometry fails to accurately capture the dimensions of complex 3D human form, yielding poor garment fit. Therefore, in this study, virtual, 3D human body models were developed in selected dynamic poses. Garment patterns developed in 3D have the typical movement inbuilt in them; hence, they offer more comfort and ease of motion to the wearer. Originality/value The identification of typical body postures of motorcycle rider has not been done before. The CAD models developed in the study can be used for the generation of ergonomic garment patterns for the motorcycle riders.

CASP methodology applied in adapted garments for adults and teenagers with spine deformity

The goal of the research presented in this article is to investigate the applicability of the CASP (Curvature, Acceleration, Symmetry, Proportionality) methodology for adapted garments’ pattern design for real cases of adults and teenagers with spine deformity. The current research is the result of a collaborative work of Slovenian and Romanian research teams with common expertise and background. The results obtained by applying CASP methodology on theoretical case studies showed that this methodology could be adequate for assuring the appropriate garment pattern designs for real persons with kyphosis. In this research, the design stages of adapted garments for adults and teenagers with spine deformity were presented by using the CASP evaluation of the back and virtual prototyping of garments. The results of the study confirmed that reconstruction process of the basic shirt/blouse pattern design improved the appearance and fit of the product to the body with spine deformity. Also, this paper brings contributions to garment design technology by 3D scanning and virtual try-on, taking into account the body shapes of the users.

Effect of rowing posture on body measurements and skin–sportswear interface pressure and implications on garment fit

Sportswear should fit well each individual athlete while preserving its ergonomic and pressure comfort upon sport-specific movements. This study aims to quantify the effect of two rowing postures on selected body measurements and skin–sportswear interface pressure for competitive rowers of age 18–35. The results based on average body measurements of a total number of 74 male and female rowers indicate a considerable influence of the catch and finish posture on both body measurements and interface skin–sportswear pressure, regardless of the gender. Back length and across back width were the most affected by posture, and increased especially from the static to catch position by 12% (6.1 cm) and 16% (6.5 cm) for male rowers, and respectively by 11% (4.9 cm) and 13% (4.7 cm) for female rowers. In general, the posture led to the larger influence on pressure than on anthropometrics of maximum 55% versus 16% for male and up to 82% versus 13% for female rowers, respectively. The maximum interface pressure (e.g. 10 mmHg) was rather low, which suggest there was no pressure discomfort. Prototypes were developed and the fit of garments was investigated in various postures. For the considered fabrics and design, an increase of the garment pattern to accommodate the catch maximum changes led to a poor fit of the prototype MR58-CP, which was generally too large, especially in the static posture. On the contrary, prototype MR58-FP that considered some finish rowing posture-related body changes and design adjustments based on experience with the first prototype and input from the test person had the best fit.

SIZING FOR A SPECIAL GROUP OF PEOPLE: BEST PRACTICE OF HUMAN BODY SCANNING

Due to new circumstances of living, climate and environmental changes, varieties of human body shapes are growing. Therefore, obtaining uniformly clothes for special issues in the group of people with similar interests (dancing groups, choirs, etc.) are getting more and more complex. Besides the self-estimation and perception about the shape and size of the person varies due to different sizing from brand to brand. To dress-up the group of people with different sizes in uniformly way is not an easy task for the supplier – even if the model chosen for the gown is casual, most of the producers doesn’t apply a large scale of sizes. Frequently sizing systems do not fit to the needs of the end-users. Size marked on the clothing describes only some information about body size, if any. Therefore, part of clothing supplied is not suitable for end-user groups, but if already purchased it is decided to discard them. Such a set of circumstances, in contrast to global progress towards sustainable development, which is also based on environmental responsibility, can serve as a contributing factor to further growth in clothing consumption. The main purpose of this study is to make an insight into sizing approaches for a special group of people focusing on the best practice of human body 3D scanning. The paper outlines a certain target group’s understanding of the clothing size correspondence to their individual body characteristics. Advantages of human body scanning for analysing of body characteristics and solving sizing issues are discussed. Within the study, anthropometric data sets of 50 women group were obtained using a 3D scanner to develop the distribution of this special group into size groups and analyse individual body measurements that are significant for the design of appropriate garment patterns. Conclusions made in this paper acknowledge 3D scanning as an advantageous method for anthropometric data obtaining which are determinate for garment design and sizing system development.

Parametric design of garment pattern based on body dimensions

Garment pattern-making is one of the most important parts in fashion design and production. However, the traditional pattern-making is an experience based work and very time-consuming. In this paper, we proposed a parametric design method of garment pattern based on body dimensions. Based on this method, we constructed a jeans' pattern recommendation system. The input items of the proposed system are three geometric constraint parameters (jean silhouette type, length and waist height) and three-dimensional constraint parameters (human body stature, waist girth and hip girth); the output of the proposed system are jeans' patterns. Also, four adjustable parameters (jeans' length, waist height, knee and leg opening) are designed to adjust patterns generated by the proposed system. If the jeans' pattern is not satisfying after virtual or real try-on, the adjustable input parameters of the proposed system can be applied for adjustment until the patterns are acceptable. Our proposed system can combine traditional pattern-making methods to generate jeans’ patterns automatically and rapidly, hence improving pattern-making efficiency significantly.

Three-dimensional garment pattern design using progressive mesh cutting algorithm

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to develop the core module of computer-aided three-dimensional garment pattern design system. Design/methodology/approach A progressive mesh cutting algorithm and mesh reshaping algorithm have been developed to cut a single mesh into multiple patches. A flat projection algorithm has been developed to project 3D patches into 2D patterns. Findings The software developed in this study is expected to enable its users to design complex garment patterns without the in-depth knowledge of pattern design process. Research limitations/implications The mesh model used in this study was a fixed model. It will be extended to a deformable garment model that can be resized according to the underlying body model Practical implications The software developed in this study is expected to reduce the time required for time-consuming and trial-and-error-based pattern design process. Social implications Fashion designers will be able to design complex patterns by themselves and the dependence upon expert patterners could be reduced Originality/value The progressive mesh cutting algorithm developed in this study can cut a mesh model using arbitrary lines. The mesh reshaping algorithm can improve the mesh quality of divided patches to increase the numerical stability during subsequent pattern flattening process. The flip removal algorithm can effectively remove the partially flipped mesh elements.

Fit Evaluation during Repetition Interaction in Garment Pattern Design

We present a novel virtual try-on solution for fitting evaluation and pattern modification to design various types of garment and speed up the garment design process. In the phase of fit evaluation, we propose a method for producing two-dimensional (2D) color maps by comparing a 2D triangle mesh panel garment and a 3D triangle mesh garment, which can display the fit evaluation outcome in real time. In the phase of pattern modification, a novel prior condition based on maximum entropy coordinates and a more comprehensive mean value coordinates interpolation algorithm are proposed. By a combination of the two deformation methods, the positions of the internal vertices are updated smoothly. Applying the proposed method to the repetition of the garment design procedure, the experimental results show that it can easily pinpoint the location where it needs to be modified and can achieve arbitrary pattern modification with a smooth mesh update.

Estimating Human Body Dimensions Using RBF Artificial Neural Networks Technology and Its Application in Activewear Pattern Making

Nowadays, the popularity of the internet has continuously increased. Predicting human body dimensions intelligently would be beneficial to improve the precision and efficiency of pattern making for enterprises in the apparel industry. In this study, a new predictive model for estimating body dimensions related to garment pattern making is put forward based on radial basis function (RBF) artificial neural networks (ANNs). The model presented in this study was trained and tested using the anthropometric data of 200 adult males between the ages 20 and 48. The detailed body dimensions related to pattern making could be obtained by inputting four easy-to-measure key dimensions into the RBF ANN model. From the simulation results, when spreading parameter σ and momentum factor α were set to 0.012 and 1, the three-layer model with 4, 72, and 8 neurons in the input, hidden, and output layers, respectively, showed maximum accuracy, after being trained by a dataset with 180 samples. Moreover, compared with a classic linear regression model and the back propagation (BP) ANN model according to mean squared error, the predictive performance of the RBF ANN model put forward in this study was better than the other two models. Therefore, it is feasible for the presented predictive model to design garment patterns, especially for tight-fitting garment patterns like activewear. The estimating accuracy of the proposed model would be further improved if trained by more appropriate datasets in the future.

Dual Adaptive Adjustment for Customized Garment Pattern

We present a dual adaptive garment slice adjustment technique for automatic resizing of apparel products with variant body shapes, and this technique can quickly generate clothed characters. Our first contribution is to propose a novel fit evaluation method. When a 2D garment pattern and a 3D draped garment have the same triangle topology connection, we calculate the shape variable of each triangle and output heat map simultaneously. For sewing a pattern to a newly targeted human body, we propose a fully automatic adjustment method that conforms to the body structure and is composed of two stages. In the coarse auto adjustment (CAA) stage, we propose a method of controlling the size of a garment by the length of a bounding box in five parts of the human body. Then, the garment pattern is automatically adjusted using the measured dimension, by stretching or shrinking. In the fine auto adjustment (FAA) stage, boundary vertices control the shape in the adjustment process. For better matching with the body, the vertices of the garment pattern boundary are relocated with the calculated moving distance and moving direction. As demonstrated in the results, our method enables fully automatic adjustment, preserving the original pattern style of garments between characters with vastly body shapes. Compared with the state-of-art 2D editing method, our proposed approach leads to time saving, and it achieves realistic garment effect compared to auto fitting methods.

Research on garment pattern design based on fractal graphics

This paper firstly analyzes the basic principle of generating fractal art graphics and the artistic features of graphics and then uses scientific visualization method to innovate and improve the theoretical model used in this paper. The generation principle and graphic characteristics of fractal graphics of complex dynamic system and L-system are mainly analyzed, and two kinds of art graphics—flower art graphics and geometric art graphics—have been developed. On this basis, the generated artistic figures are designed for the second time and then applied to the design of clothing patterns. By using MATLAB programming software to generate art graphics conforming to a specific style, combined with image processing software Photoshop to process and redesign the generated graphics, these art graphics can assist the design of clothing printing patterns and make patterns applicable for clothing fabrics. Finally, the fractal pattern theory is applied to silk scarves design and clothing fabric design through digital printing technology, which can fully reflect the practicability and superiority of clothing pattern design based on the fractal theory. Based on the experimental result, it shows that it is completely feasible to design clothing fabric printing patterns based on fractal theory, and the unusual artistic patterns designed have very considerable practical value. In addition, this method encourages creativity in the garment pattern design process and accelerates new design generation.

Associate Design of Fashion Sketch and Pattern

Currently, the work of pattern making and fashion sketch drawing is done by designers and pattern makers, respectively. The development of satisfactory garment products requires constant communication between designers and pattern makers. This process is very time-consuming. In this paper, we proposed a body-dimension-based associate design method to integrate fashion sketch drawing and pattern making. First, we accorded dimensions to fashion sketches so that fashion sketches and their corresponding patterns can be associated together by human body dimensions. Then, in the height and width directions, we constructed mathematical models considering fashion sketches, their corresponding patterns and human body dimensions. Finally, a software application based on our proposed method was developed to generate jean fashion sketches and their corresponding patterns, rapidly and automatically. The associated design of fashion sketches and garment patterns in this paper demonstrates the integration of artistic design and engineering design. This novel research idea can be further applied in other design domains.

3D interactive garment pattern-making technology

The traditional pattern-making process is very time-consuming and requires professional fashion design knowledge. In order to develop a form-fitting garment to meet customer’s individual needs, pattern makers must rely on a “trial and error” procedure until the customer is satisfied. In this paper, we proposed a “what you see is what you get” (WYSIWYG) way to efficiently develop garment patterns. First, a three-dimensional (3D) garment, using an extracted outline from a garment flat or figure, is modeled in a gravitational virtual environment. The modeled garment is then adjusted until it meets design requirements. Next, the adjusted 3D garment model is expanded by smoothing out the folds and wrinkles. Construction curves are drawn on the surface of the expanded 3D garment model according to design requirements. These curves divide the 3D garment model’s surface into many small 3D surfaces. Then, 2D garment patterns are obtained by unfolding these subdivided 3D surfaces. Finally, the flattened 2D patterns are stretched and shrank according to the fabric elasticity. The final patterns can be used for making real garments.Compared to the current 3D garment pattern-making methods, our proposed method is more robust and well-rounded; not only is the proposed approach versatile towards both tight-fitting and loose-fitting clothing, but also requires no prior knowledge of pattern-making from the user. It also involves garment ease allowance, fabric elasticity, and draping, three factors that had not been previously considered all at once during smart pattern-making procedures, in the designing process.

Garment Size Systems and Pattern Construction

Garment Size Systems and Pattern Construction