Abstract
Grading is an inseparable part of producing multiple sized patterns in clothing production. From the inception of apparel manufacturing, various methods have been developed for precision pattern grading. Nevertheless, most conventional grading systems have some flaws. The objectives of this study were to analyse traditional grading systems, identify the factors responsible for pattern grading deficiencies and finally, recommend suggestions to minimise grading problems related to the use of CAD software. For the experiments, three different measurement sheets of different buyers were collected and combined into a single specification for better comparison. All garment patterns were then drawn and graded with varying parameters. Later on, measurements of graded patterns were analysed for grading accuracy. This study presents the factors responsible for grading deficiencies and how they can be minimised for higher precision grading for the better fitting of clothing and the prevention of garment sample rejection before bulk production.
Highlights
The objectives of this study were to analyse traditional grading systems, identify the factors responsible for pattern grading deficiencies and recommend suggestions to minimise grading problems related to the use of CAD software
Pattern grading is done to increase or decrease the dimension of the pattern to reproduce a complete set of patterns of different sizes in the size range to fit a group of people [5−6]
In addition to individual patterns created by 3D CAD technology are 2D patterns that are flattened from a 3D body model, so that they reflect the human body type
Summary
Today’s business policy for apparel manufacturers requires quick response systems that turn out a wide variety of products to meet customers’ demand. Grading is a complex process used to create a complete set of patterns of different sizes contained in the size range. In addition to individual patterns created by 3D CAD technology are 2D patterns that are flattened from a 3D body model, so that they reflect the human body type. They have practical limitations, including the need to build a new 3D CAD system on the top of the existing apparel manufacturing process [11−13]. The grade rule creation or grading increment calculation, which is used by all types of 2D apparel CAD to complete the grading process, is based on manual calculation and inputs [14]. The objectives of this study were to identify and analyse the reasons behind the inaccuracy and associated problems, while maintaining the required level of precision in garment pattern grading
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