Garment Pattern Research Articles

Cloth simulation for Chinese traditional costumes

Cloth simulation has received much attention recently due to its commercial potential. It can be used for virtual try-on systems, digital films, games and cultural heritage applications. In this paper, we present an interactive multimedia system for Chinese traditional costumes based on two key technologies. One is cloth simulation based on a fabric parameter algorithm, in which a BP neural network is constructed to acquire a nonlinear relationship between fabric mechanical parameters and control parameters in a simulation process. The other is an improved Verlet algorithm for implementing systemic numerical integration. The major contribution of this system is that it can facilitate self-study by fashion majors to understand the cutting and sewing features and can provide a learning platform for people who are interested in traditional costumes. This system can fully demonstrate the characteristics of structures of classic Chinese costumes, such as Cheongsam, Qing Dynasty robes and Tibetan clothing. Three-dimensional virtual display technology is used to make and present the ancient garment by using two-dimensional garment CAD software to produce the garment pattern, image processing software to process fabric texture, and finally sewing the three-dimensional clothing. The user study shows that an interactive system based on virtual reality technology has a better intuitional and cognitive visual effect and is feasible for reproducing traditional costumes using digital technology.

A Study on the Analysis and Comparison of DC Suite and CLO3D

In the fashion industry, 2D apparel CAD technology has already matured and various 3D apparel CADs have been introduced and are available for users. In the fourth industrial revolution era, the 3D apparel technology will be highlighted, and the research of 3D apparel CAD will be much more emphasized upon. Currently, various 3D apparel CAD have been developed and commercialized due to the rapid development of technology. However, in reality, the analysis and discussions about its problems and the improvements for clothing from a user''s perspective have not been carried out yet. The purpose of this study was to provide the reference information about 3D apparel CAD for users by studying and comparing the characteristics of 3D apparel CAD. The 3D apparel CAD, DC Suite and CLO3D were selected for technical comparative study. The 3D apparel CAD mainly includes 3D body system, garment pattern system and garment simulation system and so on. It was compared and analyzed; the problem was presented, and the directions of improvement were put forth.

Collaborative 3D-To-2D Tight-Fitting Garment Pattern Design Process For Scoliotic People

This paper presents a virtual design process for a tight-fitting garment pattern for adapted consumer garments, aimed at consumers with scoliosis. The design process proposed is based on a virtual human model created using a 3D scanner, allowing simulation of the morphological shape of an individual with atypical physical deformations. Customized 2D and 3D virtual garment prototyping tools are used in combination to create products through interactions between the consumer, designer and pattern maker. After following an interactive sequence: Scanning – Design – Display – Evaluation – Adjustment, a final design solution acceptable to both the designer and consumer can be obtained. Through this process, traditional 2D garment design knowledge, especially design rules influenced by the fabric information, is fully utilized to support the design process proposed. Using the knowledge based collaborative design process, design satisfaction can be largely improved.

A customized garment collaborative design process by using virtual reality and sensory evaluation on garment fit

Abstract As the successful implantation of CAD (computer-aided-design) technology in garment industry, the 3D virtual garment technology has attracted a great attention of textile/garment companies. However, wearer’s perception on virtual garment in terms of fitting and comfort has never been systematically studied. In this paper, we propose an original customized 3D garment collaborative design process by integrating interactions between the designer and the specific consumer. In this context, a normalized sensory evaluation on garment fitting effects will be organized in a virtual environment, in order to enhance communications of the concerned actors on perception of products. Also, by learning from the measured distances between the garment surfaces and the mannequin (input) and sensory descriptors (output), we model the relationship between the garment design parameters and the human perception on fit of the finished virtual products. Using this model, we can estimate the fit perception for a specific garment size on a specific body shape without any real try-on experience. In practice, the proposed collaborative design process will permit to develop an online recommendation system for garment size selection and fit estimation. Furthermore, it will permit to recursively modify the initial garment patterns according to the consumer’s fit preferences so that they can obtain a real personalized garment. In this way, the consumer will be directly involved in the product design process by performing a series of sensory evaluations on virtual garment fit in order to obtain a desired finished product. This process has been validated by creating a collection of T-shirts meeting requirements of various customers.

Pattern generation rules for basic women’s suits

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to focus on how to automatically generate the individualized patterns for women’s suits based on the 3D body point-cloud images.Design/methodology/approachWith the software Imageware, the point-cloud data of the female body were measured according to the female body feature to obtain the heights, widths, depths and girths at various landmarks. Then the relationship between the height of each landmark and the body height was analyzed to build the height calculation rules by software SPSS, and the prediction models of body girths were established from the body widths and depths using regression analysis for pattern generation.FindingsThe pattern generation rules were built with the relationships between a human body and the garment patterns using the graphic flattening method. Based on the above rules, the final patterns were drafted automatically by using these dimensions to fit the subjects. The try-on experiment also showed that the individualized suits could fit the subjects’ body well at some feature landmarks.Originality/valueIn order to realize tailor-made and meet the consumers’ demands for individualized clothes, the development of garment CAD system has become inevitable in the garment industry. This paper could provide the foundation for automatic pattern generation, and technical support for tailor-made.

Design and evaluation of personalized garment block for atypical morphology using the knowledge-supported virtual simulation method

This research puts forward a novel knowledge-supported design process for obtaining personalized ready-to-wear garment products aimed at consumers with atypical morphology by using a virtual a three-dimensional-to-two-dimensional (3D-to-2D) design method. The proposed design process starts with designing a personalized garment block, which is then extended into the desired ready-to-wear garment style. The garment block is obtained by using a virtual 3D-to-2D design method. The extension and sizing of the garment block pattern into desired ready-to-wear garment patterns is performed in a 2D environment using classic methods. The proposed design solution begins with a personalized garment block, thus avoiding the complicated operations of simulating a 3D garment directly in the virtual environment. The proposed design process can be fully digitalized, which ensures the involvement of the consumer throughout the design. By repeatedly running the sequence of Design – Display – Evaluation – Adjustment, which is technically accomplished through the virtual 3D-to-2D design method and 3D virtual try-on, the designers’ patterns and principles of elaborating personalized garment products can be validated within a very short time. As a knowledge-supported design process, designers’ design ideas and principles of personalized design solution can be fully extracted to enhance satisfaction of the final product. A set of experiments and case studies validated the approach and application of the proposed knowledge-supported virtual design process, and demonstrated its efficiency.

Construction of a prediction model for body dimensions used in garment pattern making based on anthropometric data learning

Using artificial intelligence to predict body dimensions rather than measuring them physically is a new research direction in apparel industry. If implemented, this technology can reduce costs and improve efficiency. In this paper, we proposed a back propagation artificial neural network (BP-ANN) model to predict pattern making-related body dimensions by inputting few key human body dimensions. In order to construct the proposed model, anthropometric measurements of 120 young females from the northeastern region of China were collected. The data were then used for training and the proposed model. The results showed that the prediction of the developed BP-ANN model is more accurate and stable than that of linear regression (LR) model. As great as the LR model was at pattern making, the BP-ANN model is even better. In the future, the precision of the proposed model can be further improved if the size of the learning data increases. The proposed method can be especially useful in making garment pattern for form-fitting clothing.

Examining the effectiveness of virtual fitting with 3D garment simulation

ABSTRACTIn this paper, we report how the interactive process of garment fitting, as a component of the apparel development process, was impacted by the use of virtual fittings in place of live fittings. We created 3D garment simulations using five existing garment patterns, then conducted virtual fittings with the maker and the designer of each garment. Participants viewed the virtual fittings via WebEx. They responded to questions about fit and design details, and about the experience of participating in a virtual fitting. They had opportunities to suggest alterations and to see alternate style line markings on the virtual garments. Responses showed that elements inherent to both preparation and execution of a virtual fitting impacted the collaborative experience.

Development of upper cycling clothes using 3D-to-2D flattening technology and evaluation of dynamic wear comfort from the aspect of clothing pressure

Purpose Currently, the researches on garment development and wear comfort evaluation mainly focus on the static condition type and seldom involved dynamic condition. Therefore, the purpose of this paper is to develop cycling clothes’ patterns and evaluate their dynamic wear comfort. Design/methodology/approach First, the 3D-to-2D flattening technology was applied to develop garment patterns of a cycler’s jersey T-shirt. Then, 3D animation technology was used to simulate the scene of cycling. Next, a novel pressure-measuring method was proposed to measure static and dynamic clothing pressures in a virtual environment. Finally, the collected data were used for evaluating wear comfort. Findings Compared to static conditions, the dynamic wear comfort noticeably improved at the front neck, side neck, upper front chest, around back neck point and front shoulder, and the front neck. Compared to static conditions, the dynamic wear comfort visibly deteriorates at the back neck, below chest, outseam, back except around back neck point and around scapula, and the around scapula area. The dynamic pressure at back neck, below front chest and shoulder fluctuate wildly throughout the whole cycling. On the contrary, the dynamic pressure at the front neck, side neck, front upper chest and at the back cause it to tend to stability during cycling. Originality/value The 3D virtual-reality technology was applied to simulate cycling. And a novel method was proposed to measure numerical clothing pressures for evaluating the dynamic wear comfort. The proposed method can not only quantitatively evaluate the wear comfort of cycling clothes and optimize cycling clothes’ patterns, but also can be applied to other tight garment types.

Optimization design of cycling clothes’ patterns based on digital clothing pressures

Enormous research has focused on the analysis of garment wear-comfort using clothing pressure; however, optimization of clothing pressure based garment comfort has remained elusive. In this context, we propose a new method to optimize cycling clothes’ patterns based on the difference of static-to-dynamic clothing pressure (DSDCP). Firstly, we mapped 53 measuring points on an upper cycling garment on which we measured garment pressures in both static and dynamic conditions. We then analyzed DSDCP to find the rightful garment patterns to adjust according to the analyzed results. A garment optimization degree (OD) is proposed to carry out a quantitative analysis for garment comfort optimization. Finally, two upper cycling garments were made according to the original patterns and optimized patterns. A comparative analysis through cyclist wear trials of the cycling garments to test the optimization effect was done. Results show that our proposed method improves dynamic wear comfort significantly. Moreover, the optimized upper cycling garment, offers additional improvement of dynamic wear comfort.

Fuzzy classification of young women's lower body based on anthropometric measurement

The traditional method of body classification is discrete, using crisp and rather dichotomous classification methods; there are many shortcomings for ergonomic design of clothing products by this method. This paper proposes a fuzzy method to classify lower body shapes based on triangular fuzzy numbers. By using factor analysis and correlation analysis, we found that the height, the waist girth, and the difference of hip-waist are crucial dimensions to represent lower body shape. We then classified the lower body shape into three categories according to the difference of hip-to-waist, and finally used the membership of triangular fuzzy numbers to represent the lower body shapes. Results show that the fuzzy method of body classification can more accurately represents body information than the traditional method without increasing the number of body types. Additionally, we established that the mean of the height, waist girth and hip girth of the young women of northeast China increased by about 0.8 cm, 1.5 cm and 1.4 cm respectively compared with ten years ago.Relevance to industry: Anthropometric data is the basis of garment pattern design, and body classification is a necessary precondition for developing a garment size system. These research achievements will add value to the pattern design of young women's lower body clothing, the development of new sizing systems and related industries.

Construction of garment pattern shape information system using image analysis and shape recognition techniques

Purpose – As an extended work of the previous paper (Sul, 2010), this paper provides a guideline information for an anonymous garment pattern in sewing process. The purpose of this paper is to first, provide garment pattern database. By simply taking pictures of garment patterns, the shape database is constructed. Once the shape database is prepared, data retrieval can be done by image indexing, i.e., simply inserting garment pattern boundary shape again to the database. Using shock graph methodology, the pattern sets used for database preparation can be exactly retrieved. Second, to find the nearest shape of a given input pattern shape in the database. If the input garment pattern shape does not exist in the database, the shape matching algorithm provides the next similar pattern data. The user, who is assumed to be non-expert in garment sewing process, can easily predict the position and combination information of various patterns. Design/methodology/approach – Image processing is used to construct the garment pattern shape database. The boundary shapes are extracted from the photographs of garment patterns and their shape recognition information, especially shock graph, is also recorded for later pattern data retrieval. Findings – Using the image processing technique, garment patterns can be converted to electronic format easily. Also the prepared pattern database can be used for finding the nearest shape of an additional given input garment pattern. Patterns with irregular shapes were retrieved easily, while those with a simple shape, such as rectangle, showed a little erroneous result. Originality/value – Shape recognition has been adopted in various industrial areas, except for garment sewing process. Using the provided methodology, garment pattern shapes can be easily saved and retrieved only by taking pictures of them.

Garment Simulation and Collision Detection on a Mobile Device

This paper describes several techniques for accelerating a virtual try-on garment simulation on a mobile device (smartphone or tablet) using parallel computing on a multicore CPU, GPU computing or both depending on the mobile hardware. The system exploits a mass-spring cloth model with velocity modification approach to overcome the super-elasticity. The simulation starts from flat garment pattern meshes positioned around a 3D human body, then seaming forces are applied on the edges of the panels until the garment is seamed and several cloth draping steps are performed in the end. The cloth-body collision detection and response algorithm is based on image-space interference tests and the cloth-cloth collision detection uses entirely GPU based approach on the newer hardware or recursive parallel algorithm on the CPU. As the results section shows the average time of dressing a virtual body with a garment on a modern smart phone supporting OpenGL ES2.0 is 2 seconds and on a tablet supporting OpenGL ES3.0 or 3.1 is less than one second.

Interactive virtual try-on based three-dimensional garment block design for disabled people of scoliosis type

This paper introduces a co-design-based method for generating two-dimensional (2D) block patterns for physically disabled people with scoliosis, using three-dimensional (3D) virtual technology. A parameterization process is first performed on a scanned 3D body for creating a digitalized model of the human body, permitting simulation of the consumer's morphological shape with atypical physical deformations. Feature points of the human body for designing a garment block are discussed and classified with wearing ease for obtaining a desired fit effect based on the parameterized model. A basic garment block wire-frame aligned with body features is then established based on the defined feature points of the human body. Based on the deformed wireframe, a 3D expandable garment block is modeled. Customized 2D and 3D virtual garment prototyping tools are applied to create customized garment products based on the general concept of co-design by running the sequence Design–Display–Evaluation–Adjustment using the garment design process and design knowledge, which have already been applied to normal body shapes successfully. Through this process, the classical 2D garment design knowledge, especially 2D pattern design rules, will be modified according to the virtual garment evaluation procedure. The proposed method is validated and compared with the conventional block patternmaking methods in the virtual environment. The experimental results show that the proposed method is easier to implement and can generate garment patterns with satisfactory fit. Furthermore, the method can be used to create fit-ensured mass-customized apparel products (the top body type) for disabled people with scoliosis.

Pattern alteration of women’s suits based on ease distribution

Purpose The goal of this study was to realize pattern alterations for women’s suits by using the spatial distribution of distance ease in the body-garment interface. Design/methodology/approach An unclothed mannequin and the mannequin clothed with seven suits having different ease allowances were scanned by a 3D body scanner respectively. The image of the unclothed mannequin was then superimposed on that of each clothed mannequin (suit) to exhibit the differences in ease distribution among these suits. The distance eases at ten selected body landmarks were determined by measuring the gaps between the body and suit surfaces. Findings The mathematical models of ease distributions were built through the regression analysis to predict the distance ease with a given ease allowance. After the verification with the actual measurements, these ease distribution models could provide localized distance eases for alternating pattern pieces to ensure a specified ease allowance. Originality/value In order to realize the automatic generation of garment patterns, the ease distribution between a human body and a garment is crucial because ease is one of the determinants for garment fit. This study demonstrated a new approach of automatic pattern alteration based on 3D scanned data to accelerate the pattern making process for women’s suits with customized ease allowance.

Impact of Male Body Posture and Shape on Design and Garment Fit

This paper presents a study of the impact of body posture and the presence of functional and structural body changes on garment fit. 3D scanning on a sample of 50 male test sub jects was performed. Body posture indicators were determined on 3D body models and a statistical analysis of the results obtained was performed. Test subjects from the sample were divided into three groups according to body posture types. Three body models with different body dimensions and different physiological spine curvature were selected and im ported into a 2D/3D CAD system for computer-based garment simulation. 3D simulation of a men’s jacket in the closest garment size was performed on selected body models. Garment fit was analysed on every simulated model and based on the analysis performed, garment pattern elements and measurements where it is necessary to enable modifications were de termined. The most complex part of the research refers to the development of a parametric computer-based garment model which will be able to adjust according to anthropometric body measurements and body shapes with a different physiological spine curvature. Relationships between targeted body measurements and their impact on modifications of pattern segments were investigated as a starting point for defining mathematical expres sions according to which values of measurement changes on the garment pattern will be calculated. A parametric garment model pattern which enables adjustments according to different body sizes and body postures types was developed. Verification of the method developed was performed using computer-based 3D simulations on 3D body models with prominent problems of body posture.

Determination of distance ease of pants using 3D scanning data

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to focus on the determination of distance ease of pants from the 3D scanning data of a clothed and unclothed body. Design/methodology/approach – A human model whose body size conformed to the Chinese dummy standard and four pairs of suit pants were chosen for the study. The scanned surfaces of both the body and the pant were superimposed based on the preset markers. The circumferences at four important positions – abdomen, hip, thigh and knee – were selected for pant ease determination. At one position (e.g. hip), the two cross-sections were divided into several characteristic sections and the distance ease, i.e. the space between the cross-sections at each section was measured. The regression equations between the distance ease and ease allowance were then derived so that the distance ease can be estimated. Findings – The relationship was found between the distance ease and the ease allowance. Meanwhile, a mathematic model was established to convert the distance ease into the increments of a pant pattern, which helps to develop an individual pant pattern automatically. Social implications – The paper provided the concept and the method to customize a pant by using the 3D scanning data of body. It created a link between the 3D distance ease and the 2D ease allowance, and the model to calculate the distance ease increments which warrant proper ease distributions. The method helps to develop an individualized garment pattern automatically from a basic and tight pant pattern. Originality/value – Understanding the relationship between the distance ease and the ease allowance and increments of pattern could help develop an individual apparel pattern from 3D measurements. This paper showed a way to solve the problem of distribution of the apparel ease in a virtual environment and convert body measurements from a 3D scanner into personalized apparel patterns.

A review of research and innovation in garment sizing, prototyping and fitting

Achieving well fitting garments matters to consumers and, therefore, to product development teams, garment manufacturers and fashion retailers when creating clothing that fits and functions both for individuals and for a retailer's target populations. New tools and software for body scanning and product development enhance the ways that sizing and fitting can be addressed; they provide improved methods for classifying and analysing the human body and new ways of garment prototyping through virtual product development.Recent technological developments place a growing demand on product development teams to reconsider their approach to prototyping, sizing and fitting. Significant, related changes are also being made in the fashion retail environment, including innovations in virtual fit to enable consumers to engage with fit online. For best effect in the short term, such advances need to relate well to existing manufacturing practices and to the methods that have, over many years, become embedded by practitioners into the processes involved in clothing product development and those used for establishing garment fit.The high rate of technological advance, however, places an urgent need on practitioners to change; established principles of pattern theory need to be recognised explicitly and followed consistently, otherwise, new techniques for developing and assessing products will not be able to be fully exploited. Practitioners will be pressed to adopt more data-rational approaches to product development, including adopting engineering principles into the practice of clothing product development. For example, comparisons made between the traditional two-dimensional garment pattern and the three-dimensional environment accessible through 3-D body scanning technology, provide both the stimulus and the data required to support a re-examination of how the measurements required for clothing product development should be defined. This should be coupled with a more explicit recognition of ease as a factor requiring quantification within clothing engineering. New methods of categorising the body in terms of its form also allow recognition of the restrictions of proportional theories in pattern construction; they afford promising opportunities for advancing the practices of sizing and fitting in clothing product development.

Basic Upper Garment Pattern for Elderly Women

Basic Upper Garment Pattern for Elderly Women

Basic garment pattern design and the development for the standard figure

It is common that the measurements of any human Figure are differing from the others with same size. Based on the parameters of flat curves and measurements of the flat pattern, using the parabola curves as stating points between the armhole and the armscy geometrical approximation of the garment is achieved by reshaping the surfaces of the flat pattern. Bearing in mind that, in reality there is no such thing as standard or perfect figure, the formulas for constructing basic flat pattern has designed and developed for the standard figure. The research is trying mathematically to solve and overcome the problem of fitness and might put a step to solve this deficiency.