In pre-modern relationships forged between China and the Korean peninsula, there was a ritual through which the Chinese Emperor would bestow official attires to the King of the Korean peninsula. In the East Asian Confucian societies, attires served as a method with which the Emperor would enlighten the universe, and establish a social order based on protocols(Rye, ceremonial rules) by distinguishing social classes with a dress code. Back in the time when Han(漢) dominance was affecting the Korean peninsula, Goguryeo, and the little states(小國) of the Korean Han(韓), received attires and other items from the Chinese Han(漢) dynasty, and this practice was emulated inside the peninsula as well, as Goguryeo bestowed attires to Shilla and Shilla did so to other smaller entities. This was an act of pursuing diplomatic peace as well as domestic stability, by acknowledging the relative superiority of the party which was bestowing the attire.BR Unlike previous periods, when these rituals of bestowing attires were only held or observed sporadically, in the Goryeo period the frequency dramatically increased. The Goryeo King regularly received official attires from both the Khitan Liao dynasty and Jurchen Chin dynasty, both of which Goryeo served as superior states. The items the Goryeo King received were the Myeonbok(冕服) dress, completed with the Gu-ryu’gwan head piece and Gu-jangbok attire. This dress code affected domestic rituals as well, and became the norm for later Goryeo Kings’ dress code too.BR The observation of this ritual was discontinued during the period in which Goryeo coexisted with the Mongol Yuan Empire, but was later resumed at Goryeo’s own request when Goryeo’s relationship with the newborn Ming dynasty began. During the reigns of Kings Gongmin-wang and U-wang, Goryeo, in an attempt to restore a new cultural norm of which the original was in their eyes somewhat contaminated by the Mongol cultural influence, tried to establish an amicable diplomatic relationship with Ming, and requested Ming cultural bestowals, including attires for the Goryeo King. When Ming received an unexpected request from Goryeo, it complied by going through some troubles of establishing necessary protocols, in order to maintain their image of superiority.BR At the end of the Goryeo period, a relationship with Ming was firmly in place and diplomatic institutions were equipped, so bestowed attires also again became a norm. In the past, they represented a diplomatic consent between the appointing state and the appointed state over the issue of political, diplomatic dominance, but now it was symbolizing the provision and acceptance of cultural norms, and a recognition of cultural superiority.
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