Abstract
An explanation of stitch formation and the interaction of the components and variables that constitute a ‘good seam’ are considered. It is shown how changes to those variables can affect the stitch equilibrium from a flat stable appearance to an unstable manifestation resulting in unbalanced seams, differential feed, bedding-in and seam puckering. This analysis considers the mechanics of the sewn assembly during and after stitching, highlighting the importance of fabric and thread properties and their relationships with the sewing foot pressure, feed dog and the relevant frictional forces during sewing and with sewing thread and its recovery after sewing. The important role of fabric behaviour determined by its bending, shear and other properties provides an explanation of sewing faults and how to eliminate them.
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