Abstract
The purpose of this study is to objectively evaluate the seam pucker as a fabric formability and to analyze the effects of the fabric structural and sewing parameters to the seam pucker properties of the worsted and wool/polyester blend fabrics. The seam pucker of the worsted and wool/polyester blend fabrics according to the different types of fibre composition were surveyed by measuring fabric mechanical property using KES-FB and FAST systems and also seam puckering test was conducted by objective and subjective methods. In addition, the effects of fabric structural and sewing parameters to the seam pucker were investigated using statistical analysis. It was revealed that the effects of fabric structural parameters to the seam pucker were dominant than those of sewing machine conditions. It was shown that low pressor foot pressure and shuttle tension make good seam pucker, and high sewing speed and shuttle tension make bad seam pucker. And it was also shown that the precision on estimating of the seam pucker by KES-FB system was much higher than that of FAST system. And seam pucker values between objective and subjective methods showed good correlation.
Published Version
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