Abstract
Seam pucker is a common problem in sewing. It not only affects the appearance of product, but also affects product performance. The purpose of this study is to quantify the complex dynamic interactions between fabric performance, sewing process parameters and seam pucker. In order to solve the problem of shirt seam pucker, this study selected four kinds of shirt fabrics, three kinds of polyester sewing threads, three kinds of stitch density and four kinds of seam types for experiments. Through unitary regression analysis, the subjective and objective evaluation results are consistent. Further analysis the results of objective experiment revealed that fabric performances, seams type, sewing thread and stitch densities all have impact on seam pucker. Meanwhile also find out the sewing process parameters for the four fabrics when the seam shrinkage’s were smallest, so it’s helpful for the apparel enterprises to improve seam quality. Multiple linear regression analysis of experimental results show that fabric performances has the greatest influence on seam pucker, thickness, weight and warp density of fabric properties significantly affect seam pucker. And as the breaking elongation of sewing thread increases, seam pucker also increases. Stitch densities and seam type has the least affected on seam pucker, they affect the seam pucker by changing the extension of stitch and thickness of fabric at the seam, respectively. Seam type has greater impact on fabrics that are prone to seam pucker, seam type T1 get larger seam shrinkage than T4. Finally, the complex dynamic interactions was quantified and expressed through mathematical models.
Highlights
Due to the needs of the workplace, social contact and other aspects, shirts are still an indispensable item in people's daily life
The regression equation is, y = 5.42x − 0.762 adjusted R2 = 0.941, the significant value is detected as p = 0.000 < 0.05, it shows that the established regression equation is meaningful and there is a high consistency between subjective evaluation and objective evaluation of seam pucker
4/cm, the fabric F1 is sewn with the seam type T4, sewing thread L1, the seam shrinkage is the smallest and is 1.8
Summary
Due to the needs of the workplace, social contact and other aspects, shirts are still an indispensable item in people's daily life. The shirts with good texture and fine workmanship show their own personality, aesthetics, and indicate their status. People’s requirements for the quality of shirts, especially their appearance quality, are much higher than other clothing products. In order to maintain their competitiveness in the market, many shirt manufacturers have established their own quality standards for shirts. In today's shirt production process, many manufacturers are troubled by seam pucker, an important quality indicator of shirt appearance, they have made considerable efforts to improve the appearance quality of shirt.[1,2,3] Seam pucker refers to the deformation of clothing fabrics along
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