Collective Women Research Articles

Collecting Women: Three French Kings and Manuscripts of Empire in the Italian Wars

Collecting Women: Three French Kings and Manuscripts of Empire in the Italian Wars

Editor’s Note

Editor’s Note

Expression and characteristics of kidult in contemporary women's collection

Expression and characteristics of kidult in contemporary women's collection

드리스 반 노튼 컬렉션 고찰 (1) - 1994년 S/S ~ 2014년 F/W 여성복을 중심으로 -

The aim of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W. From the research purpose the following questions arise: how are the brands of Dries Van Noten developed and what are the important features? ...

A study on the Characteristics of Dolce & Gabbana Women's Collections - Focused on Textile Patterns

연구목적은 첫째, 2004년 S/S부터 2014년 S/S시즌까지 돌체 앤 가바나(Dolce & Gabbana) 여성복 컬렉션의 디자인 컨셉과 디자인 요소들을 분석하여 디자인의 특징을 살피고자 한다. 둘째, 문양디자인을 분석해 이브랜드에서의 문양의 역할과 특성을 파악하고자 한다. 연구방법으로는 인터넷 패션사이트에 소개된 컬렉션 사진과 리뷰기사를 대상으로 분석하였다.<BR> 이 브랜드의 컨셉은 복고성, 관능성, 바로크적인 낭만성, 향토성, 예술성, 남성성으로 나타났다. 이 브랜드에서 X자형 실루엣이 주로 사용되었고 시스루룩과 란제리룩이 가장 많이 사용되었다. 이들은 무채색과 장식적인 트리밍을 선호하였다.<BR> 이 브랜드에서의 문양의 역할과 특성은 다음과 같다. 첫째, 디자인 컨셉과 문양 모티브 간에는 밀접한 상관관계를 가지고 있었다. 이들은 문양이 갖고 있는 상징이나 이미지를 주제와 연관시켜 디자이너의 주제의식을 시각적으로 강화하는데 사용하였다. 둘째는 의상의 형태 디자인과 문양을 믹스해서 이미지의 양면감정과 다양성을 표현하였다. 셋째는 이들은 향토적이고 예술적인 문양을 개발하여 의상을 예술화하는 경향을 보였다. 넷째는 의상에 잘 사용하지 않는 대화형의 문양을 개발하여 브랜드의 독창성을 나타내었다. 다섯번째로 향토성 있는 문양을 개발하여 고향에 대한 애정과 향수를 표현하였다. 이를 통해 낭만적 감성을 자극하는 시각적인 스토리텔링 효과를 극대화하였다.

Contemporary collecting: objects, practices, and the fate of things

Table of Contents Acknowledgements Introduction Part 1 in a World 1. Marcus Boon, Meditations in an Emergency: On the Apparent Destruction of My mp3 2. Matthew James Vechinski, Collecting, Curating, and the Magic Circle of Ownership in a Postmaterial Culture 3. Phillip Hutchison, Searching for Cap'n Ernie's Treasure Chest: and Sharing the Lost History of Live Local Television Genres Part 2 Changing Relationships with Things 4. David Banash, Virtual Life and the Value of Objects: Nostalgia, Distinction, and in the Twenty-First Century 5. Daniel DeChaine, Memory, Desire, and the Good Collector in PEZhead Culture 6. William Davies King, Suited for Nothing: Second Hand 7. Stanley Cavell, World As Things: Thoughts On Part 3 and Identity, Personal and Political 8. Stephen A. Andon, From the Attic to the Mallpark: A Collection's Transition from Private to Public in a New Professional Baseball Stadium 9. Mechtild Widrich, Collecting 'History in the Making': The Privatization of Propaganda in National Socialist Cigarette Cards 10. Terri Baker, 'The record of a life': Nation and Narrative in Victorian Women's Collections Part 4 Practices and Cultural Hierarchies 11. Sophie Thomas, Distraction and Display: the Curiosity Cabinet and the Romantic Museum. 12. Mary Titus, Collection and Parody: Taliesin and House on the Rock 13. Kevin M. Moist, Record as Cultural Anthropology Bibliography Contributor Biographies

Brilliant Bodies: Material Culture and the Adornment of Men in North Italy’s Quattrocento Courts

Previous articleNext article No AccessMaterial Culture of the Italian SignoriBrilliant Bodies: Material Culture and the Adornment of Men in North Italy’s Quattrocento CourtsTimothy McCallTimothy McCallVillanova University Search for more articles by this author PDFPDF PLUSFull Text Add to favoritesDownload CitationTrack CitationsPermissionsReprints Share onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditEmail SectionsMoreDetailsFiguresReferencesCited by I Tatti Studies in the Italian Renaissance Volume 16, Number 1/2Fall 2013 Published for Villa I Tatti: The Harvard University Center for Italian Renaissance Studies Article DOIhttps://doi.org/10.1086/673421 Views: 546Total views on this site Citations: 9Citations are reported from Crossref © 2013 by Villa I Tatti: The Harvard University Center for Italian Renaissance Studies. All rights reserved.PDF download Crossref reports the following articles citing this article:Allie Terry-Fritsch Playing the Printed Piazza: Giovanni de’ Bardi’s Discorso sopra il giuoco del calcio fiorentino and Somaesthetic Discipline in Grand-Ducal Florence, (Oct 2020).https://doi.org/10.5117/9789463722216_ch05Allie Terry-Fritsch Mobilizing Visitors: Political Persuasion and the Somaesthetics of Belonging in the Chapel of the Magi, (Oct 2020).https://doi.org/10.5117/9789463722216_ch02Timothy McCall Galeazzo’s Gem and Ghellero in the Uffizi Portrait by Piero Pollaiuolo, Source: Notes in the History of Art 39, no.33 (Feb 2020): 150–161.https://doi.org/10.1086/707741Anna Gialdini, Alessandro Silvestri Administrative knowledge and material practices in the archive, Mélanges de l'École française de Rome. Moyen Âge , no.131-1131-1 (Jan 2019).https://doi.org/10.4000/mefrm.4922Emanuele Lugli Metamorphic Heads: A Footnote on Botticelli’s and Pollaiuolo’s Mercanzia Virtues, Source: Notes in the History of Art 37, no.11 (Dec 2017): 26–36.https://doi.org/10.1086/695754John Gagné Collecting Women: Three French Kings and Manuscripts of Empire in the Italian Wars, I Tatti Studies in the Italian Renaissance 20, no.11 (May 2017): 127–184.https://doi.org/10.1086/691389Asa Simon Mittman, Patricia MacCormack Rebuilding the Fabulated Bodies of the Hoard-Warriors, postmedieval: a journal of medieval cultural studies 7, no.33 (Oct 2016): 356–368.https://doi.org/10.1057/s41280-016-0008-0Ulinka Rublack Renaissance Dress, Cultures of Making, and the Period Eye, West 86th: A Journal of Decorative Arts, Design History, and Material Culture 23, no.11 (Jun 2016): 6–34.https://doi.org/10.1086/688198Jane Tylus Invincible masculinities, European Review of History: Revue européenne d'histoire 22, no.44 (Jul 2015): 680–685.https://doi.org/10.1080/13507486.2015.1028341

Documenting Maryland Women State Legislators: The Politics of Collecting Women's Political Papers

Collecting political papers related to women requires archivists to adopt a broader perspective than does collecting political papers in general. Special Collections at the University of Maryland, College Park, has collected the papers of women state legislators and other political materials related to women and women's issues for almost forty years and serves as one institutional example of documenting women in politics, more specifically women state legislators. This article identifies the unique challenges related to collecting the papers of women state legislators and provides general recommendations for developing basic collecting and selection criteria that incorporate critical thinking about women in elected office. A brief discussion about research use of the papers of women state legislators follows to illustrate how researchers utilize or neglect these collections for various reasons. Finally, this article demonstrates that even though women appear to be entering the political mainstream, archiv...

현대패션에 나타난 노마드적 표현특성에 관한 연구 - 들뢰즈의 노마디즘을 중심으로 -

Nomadism means 'divide share' and 'drift where allocated'. The word to express a variety of modern people without being tied to a fixed time and place, constantly moving to new areas and explore the possibility. The progress of this study, first, to research on the conceptual study of Nomadism through Deleuze's theory of art and to organize Nomadism patterns and design paradigms in modern society. Second is to analyze and investigate cases of Nomadism based on the theoretical background in a way to reinterpret to the contemporary fashion, and to suggest the formative characteristics and inherent expressiveness of Nomadism expressed in modern fashion. Theoretical considerations made through the collection data were select from ready-to-wear women's collections 2005 S/S~2013 S/S presented in 'Style.com'. The results of the analysis of the formative characteristics of Nomadism in the 21 st century fashion are 'mixed expressions of time · space and gender', 'pursuit of diversity through self-dismantling', 'clothing systemization of mobile and deformable' and 'temporary amusement, lightness, an expression of the ride rules'. The inherent expressiveness of Nomadism through these types of figurative representation are 'unbounded fashion', 'multi-center, multi-functional' and 'emotional directivity'. As such, philosophy and artistic trends started Nomadism is harmoniously expressed in terms of the design transcending the boundaries of existing stereotypes.

"You don't have to keep everything on paper": African American women's use of family health history tools.

Little is known about African American women's collection of family health history (FHH) information and use of FHH tools. Most FHH research has investigated tools that use a biomedical paradigm, but other kinds of tools, such as those that include information about family social context, have been developed for use in diverse populations. Using mixed methods, we interviewed 32 African American women about behavioral steps to collecting FHH, family communication about health, and reactions to a biomedical FHH tool. Participants chose one of two FHH tools to take home. A follow-up call three weeks later assessed tool use. Many participants expressed support for writing down FHH information, but at baseline few had done so; most participants who had collected FHH information had done so verbally. Participants reacted positively to the biomedical FHH tool used during the interview, with many saying it allowed them to see patterns in their FHH. At follow-up, 67% reported using their FHH tool, primarily to promote discussion among family members; only 32% used the tool to write down FHH information. Although participants thought collecting FHH information was important and had positive reactions to both tools, the majority did not use the tools to write down information and instead collected FHH informally. These findings underline the importance of separating the components of FHH collection behaviors to analyze the steps used in FHH creation. Practitioners should consider additional methods of encouraging patients to create written FHHs in order to share the information with health care providers.

Women's history digital primary source collections

Purpose – ‐‐ The aim of this article is to locate and describe collections of digitized primary sources of value to scholars and librarians in the fields of women's history and gender studies. This bibliography focuses on digitized primary source collections related to the global history of women.Design/methodology/approach ‐‐ This article provides an overview of subscription databases and open access websites dedicated to women's history primary source collections available electronically. Priority was given to sites with materials or transcriptions available in English, those that represented a diversity of aspects within women's history and those that are curated by scholars in the field or supported by academic institutions. Two major criteria for inclusion in the list were that a large portion of the collection must focus on women's history and that the site could be navigated in English.Findings ‐‐ The majority of these collections are focused mainly on the history of American and British women and secondarily on the history of women from other cultures and global regions. While some primary sources have been digitized and made available online relating to Asian, African, South American and Latin American women's history, they appear as part of more general regional primary source collections.Originality/value ‐‐ Though there are a number of excellent librarian or scholar web guides available online, a thorough examination and comparison is lacking from professional literature.

Raising the Dead: Collecting Women Poets in the Eighteenth Century

A review of Chantel M. Lavoie's Collecting Women: Poetry and Lives, 1700-1780 (Lewisburg, 2009), a book that examines how eighteenth-century anthologies and miscellanies collected biographies of and poems by women and juxtaposed various authors' poetry and lives to alter the meaning of their work.

Collecting Women: Poetry and Lives, 1700–1780 (review)

Reviewed by: Collecting Women: Poetry and Lives, 1700–1780 Madeleine Forell Marshall Chantel M. Lavoie. Collecting Women: Poetry and Lives, 1700–1780. Lewisburg, PA: Bucknell, 2009. Pp. 215. $53. Ms. Lavoie has given us six loosely linked essays treating four very different women poets and the posthumous publication of their work in “collections.” We begin with a reflection on the act of collecting poems in books, variously called anthologies and miscellanies and encyclopedias and biographical dictionaries, variously ordered (chronologically or alphabetically) or not really ordered at all. To what extent are such collections of poems also collections of lives? Does who one is matter for readers of poems? How do poems shape the reader’s perceptions of their author? These are familiar concerns, albeit framed here using critical wordplay of complement and compliment, piling and compiling and filing, and even the anagram of file and life. At its best, the book is a series of ingenious reflections on poems as collectible things, conveying legitimate concern about selection, representation, and categorization. Many of us also engage in “collecting women.” When we design courses of study, we choose women poets and poems to represent them—or their age or their gender or politics. To make sense, some design is required; some principles. Do we file or pile? Leap from one kind of poetry to another or attempt to impose order? Ms. Lavoie inspires such reflection. The richly documented volume has an extensive Bibliography. She, alas, makes little attempt to take positions, almost as though the task at hand was a compilation or collection of ideas and observations. The form of the study mirrors its object, with often puzzling results. It is almost as though in her mind choosing or preferring one or another idea, interpretation, poet, or kind of poetry would be a loss. Her basic text is the two-volume collection of Poems by Eminent Ladies (1755), edited by George Colman and Bonnell Thornton, and arranged alphabetically by eminent author. She chooses four poets for [End Page 86] particular attention: Elizabeth Singer Rowe (1674–1737), Philips (1631–1664), Behn (1640–1689) and Finch (1661–1720). Rowe is manifestly a good choice for the overlap of biography and authority. Her carefully controlled, exemplary persona was a basic requirement in an author who mentored the devotional and sentimental lives of her readers. (The books of Moses, the psalms of David similarly invoke the historical personage to legitimize the literature.) Philips (as the matchless Orinda) stands for the mythicüberpoet, invoked perhaps more often than read. Ms. Lavoie turns away from the Poems by Eminent Ladies to consider the representation of Philips in The Virgin Muse: Being a Collection of Poems from Our Most Celebrated English Poets (1717), a schoolbook assembled by James Greenwood. The startling turn breaks the thematic link among the chapters and also any semblance of chronology. Especially engaging is Philips as the Virgin Muse. With the essay on Behn, we return to “eminent ladies.” Colman and Thornton altered lines that could be misconstrued in the different political world of midcentury England, emendations that hardly speak to the politics of the entire enterprise. What is more remarkable, if unremarked in this study, is the status of Behn as an “Eminent Lady” in 1755. Indeed, when we stop to reflect, the attribution of eminence to Elizabeth Rowe, a Dissenter, is also striking. That sometime theater people and reclusive Dissenters mix with the likes of the Countess of Winchelsea and Lady Mary Chudleigh in the anthology is arguably its most extraordinary feature. What of Chudleigh? Why neglected in favor of Behn and Rowe, Finch and Philips, each of whom has a scholarly following? Why were these four chosen and why the peculiar progression from midcentury and back to the teens, then forward to the study of Behn as she appears in Poems by Eminent Ladies, then back again to Philips and Finch? A study so preoccupied with the collection and ordering of poems and women should be more transparent in its own principles of selection and sequence. Those who, in recent decades, struggled to articulate a feminist literary historical criticism and urged the recovery of women writers—skimming collections and miscellanies in rare...

"Carolina Herrera" Internationalization Strategy: Democratic Luxury or Maximum Exclusiveness?

1. Introduction Carolina Herrera is a fashion Brand name with a renown and quality image. The company has identified a market niche that demands garments, apparel and accessories to which it may offer a somewhat differentiated product with excellent quality. However, this market niche is already targeted by several companies with very renowned Brand names and great reputation, such as Loewe and Vuitton, which could clearly be identified as the leading companies and worldwide references in the luxury fashion apparel sector (Reynolds, 1985). Faced this scenario, we examine whether there is the possibility of carrying out a complete new Brand positioning to enter this market niche, or on the contrary, efforts should focus on strengthening its Brand positioning strategy within an international scope. To answer this question, Spanish fashion retailer Carolina Herrera's (hereinafter CH) internationalization process and strategy are going to be analysed as a case study. For that purpose, three elements of marketing strategic planning will be used, such as the Benchmarking, segmentation and positioning and finally the Marketing-mix, viz., marketing variables that the Company has to reach this potential market. Because Brand plays a determining role in the firm's internationalization and in penetrating international markets (Malhotra, Peterson and Kleiser, 1999), the role played by Brand as a transmissive vehicle of internationalization strategy is analysed in this study. 2. The Company's Beginning, Conceptualization and Internationalization Process 2.1 The Beginning of the Company and the Carolina Herrera Concept in Current Context The European textile and clothing sector is characterized by its fragmented and disperse production, with great number of small and medium size companies (Nordas, 2004), whereas textile distribution channels are characterized by their huge concentration level (Stengg, 2001). In this context, the Company Sociedad Textil Lonia, S.A, (STL) was launched in 1997, as an industrial project of clothing and sale of garments, apparel and accessories whose aim is the medium-term development of several brands in all worldwide markets. The first brand that STL launched onto the Spanish market in 1998 was Purification Garcia, with men and women's collections, aiming at the market segment with a medium-high purchasing power and which also demands quality and design apparel. On the other hand, fashion designer Carolina Herrera, signed in 2000 a commercial licensing contract with STL to start up the worldwide expansion of her firm and planning the inauguration of stores in Europe, the United States, South America and Asia in the medium term. CH aimed primarily at the market segment with high purchasing power, offering great quality and exclusive design products. Nowadays, the CH brand is the flagship of the company located in Ourense (Spain). Over a thirteen-year period, STL has opened 305 stores in 23 countries worldwide and 102 points of sale for the PG Brand in three countries. The textile Company owns a commercial licensing contract for both brands. Under this contract, STL is in charge of the global design, tailoring, distribution and management of the two brands. Control of the overall procedure, including design, production and distribution is from central headquarters in Ourense. Due to its business experience and to the abolition of quotas on textile exports in 2005, the company has reorganized its production process, getting rid of the tailoring and dressmaking activities. So, following Berkeley and Steuer (2000); and Keenan, Saritas and Kroener (2004) there is a clear example of product subcontracting of the labour intensive parts of the production process to third countries with lower wages costs. 2.2. The Business and Management Model: "One Company, Two Brands" Dealing with two fashion projects set in different market segments such as PG and CH has forced the company to lay down two different marketing strategies for the two brands. …

Tendency Analysis of Denim Styles Expressed through Women's Collection S/S 2011

This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.

The Characteristics of Qipao Design in Contemporary Fashion Design - Focused on Women's Collections from 2000 to 2009 -

Abstract The purpose of this study is to understand Qipao, that Chinese traditional women’s cloth, and analysis the aesthetic characteristics of that. Joining WTO in 2002 and 2008 Beijing Olympic made China get the attention by the world and get the opportunity that advent of China style. Chinese fashion cultural contents have abundant meanings in internal or external, therefore characteristics aesthetic of Chinese traditional fashion had much influence in world fashion design. Qipao that has influence in contemporary fashion design could be used special fashion design data for China market. A variety of literature and prior researches for Qipao’s history and transition process was studied. Internal and external documents, fashion magazines, internet information were investigated to study features of Qipao. Total 20 seasons fashion collections from 2000S/S to 2009F/W was examined, and selected 22 brands that showed Qipao style, after then extracted 418 photos among them. By the seasons, it showed 193 pieces in S/S and 225 pieces in F/W, and was put to practical use in F/W season than S/S. The results are as follows. The contemporary fashion collections shown in the Qipao style silhouette, detail, color, material, pattern and the results obtained by each, were in all respects diversity. In silhouette, including traditional tight silhouettes, 'H' silhouettes, boxy silhouette was such a variety. The five colors traditionally preferred color from the color was more of a tendency to be gorgeous. Modern reinterpretation of pattern designs by graphic pattern that has emerged. Also, shown in a contemporary fashion collection Qipao style leather material in application utilizing the glossy feel of a plastic material and has emerged feeling.Key words: Qipao(치파오), Chinese fashion(중국 패션), contemporary fashion design(현대 패션디자인).

Collecting Women: Poetry and Lives, 1700-1780 by Chantel M. Lavoie

Collecting Women: Poetry and Lives, 1700-1780 by Chantel M. Lavoie

Enchanted Lives, Enchanted Objects: American Women Collectors and the Making of Culture, 1800-1940 by Dianne Sachko Macleod

Enchanted Lives, Enchanted Objects: American Women Collectors and the Making of Culture, 1800-1940 by Dianne Sachko Macleod

Laura R. Prieto. Review of "Enchanted Lives, Enchanted Objects: American Women Collectors and the Making of Culture, 1800–1940" by Dianne Sachko Macleod.

Laura R. Prieto. Review of "Enchanted Lives, Enchanted Objects: American Women Collectors and the Making of Culture, 1800–1940" by Dianne Sachko Macleod.

Collecting Women’s Lives in ‘National’ History: opportunities and challenges in writing for the ODNB

Until recently the range of cogently analysed biographies of women was relatively small. Even the Dictionary of National Biography, the most prestigious biographical reference series we have in Britain, had few biographies of women beyond the very famous and royalty. One of the aims of the new and ever extending Oxford Dictionary of National Biography (ODNB), published in 2004, is the inclusion of more women and it does have an ever expanding number of biographies. This is at a time when there is increased interest in and subtle explorations of biography as a form of historical writing which can illuminate women’s lives. It is worthwhile exploring, therefore, how the ODNB’s tightly constructed way of telling life stories fits into the historiography of writing women’s lives. This article investigates this through using a recent case study.