Women's Apparel Research Articles

THE RESPONSE OF SMALL ONTARIO BUSINESSES TO A CHANGING BUSINESS ENVIRONMENT

ABSTRACT This article examines small firms, the environment and their responses to changes in the environment. The study focuses on three industries after the inception of the FT A in 1989. The three industries chosen for the study were the wine industry, the women's apparel industry and the household furniture industry. All three industries were described as being vulnerable in a free trade environment and it was suggested that firms in these industries might be unable to compete in such an environment. The article outlines the factors that small businesses perceived as affecting the business environment and their responses to the changing environment.

Developing international direct marketing strategies with a consumer decision-making content analysis

This article examines an innovative international marketing tool for understanding multicountry consumer decision making. Two personal interview studies of consumers, one from the United States and the other from Germany, are subjected to a content analysis and statistical routines to examine need recognition, prepurchase search, evaluation of alternatives, and purchase decisions, in the women's apparel catalog market. The findings show that consumers follow decision-making paths with definable characteristics, and that these paths differ within countries but not across countries, except by the proportion traversing particular paths.

Women Workers in a Restructured Domestic Apparel Industry

In the context of theories of gender and skill, this article provides an analysis of the way new efforts to restructure domestic apparel production are affecting women production workers. The theoretical framework embodies the notion that skill has traditionally been defined by the work that men do. Women's socially and culturally devalued position has relegated them to labor-intensive, low-wage work, traditionally seen as unskilled. The emergence of new forms of international trade, changing U.S. policies, and transformations in America's financial and retail markets have contributed to new forms of labor intensity for women apparel operators. Evidence from a study of the men's tailored clothing industry and other firms producing comparable garments leads to the conclusion that efforts to restructure domestic apparel production through flexible manufacturing tend to create new forms of taylorist production in certain segments of the industry. Rather than improving the quality of work for women apparel operators, flexible manufacturing tends to intensify the labor of these workers and may have the potential to contribute to their experience of declining wages.

The roles of demographics, purchase histories, and shopper decision-making styles in predicting consumer catalog loyalty

This article examines the power of demographics, purchase histories, and consumer decision-making styles to predict catalog loyalty behavior. Based on data from two surveys of women's apparel catalog item buyers, the study finds that repeat-prone customers are distinguishable from switchers on several measures. Decision-making style segments exist among regular apparel catalog shoppers that work in combination with demographics and purchase frequencies to predict the probability of loyalty behavior, providing the basis for positioning strategies that appeal to repeat-prone market segments.

Comparison of Buyers' Job Content in Large and Small Retail Firms

The purpose of this study was to compare the job content of apparel buyers in large and small retail companies. Data were collected from 100 department store buyers and 153 independent specialty store buyers in four merchandise categories: women's, men's, and children's apparel and other apparel and accessories. The Position Analysis Questionnaire was used to describe the buyer's job content with regard to 64 worker-oriented job elements. Bonferroni paired comparison t-tests were used to adjust for a Type I error. Results tended to confirm general perceptions that large store buyers (LSBs) were more quantitative, assertive, skillful in negotiations, and time conscious than were small store buyers (SSBs). SSBs appeared to be more consumer, community, and hands-on oriented than LSBs. Similarities in job content elements or universal components were also found Buyers in both sizes of organizations found the following job elements to be important or frequently used: judging quality, estimating quantity, making decisions, and personal sacrifice.

Consumer preference structure analysis: A managerial tool for understanding apparel catalog market competition

This article discusses a research tool for marketing strategies—Consumer Preference Structure Analysis—as an illustration of how direct marketers can benefit from an understanding of the patterns in consumer choice behavior. From purchasing histories and product attribute ratings, this innovative strategic marketing tool defines a hierarchy of buyer preferences and market competition. An analysis of findings from a mail survey of 565 women apparel buyers indicates that switching patterns between catalogs and catalog attribute ratings define a hierarchy of directly and indirectly competitive apparel catalogs. This leads to an explanation for consumer priorities in the women's apparel catalog market and, more generally, to an appreciation of how buyer behavior patterns and attribute ratings can be analyzed.

Job Design of Patternmakers in Apparel Manufacturing

The job structure of apparel patternmakers in North Carolina manufacturing units producing women's and children's apparel in 1989 was examined Sixty companies met the eligibility requirement of employing their own patternmakers. Self-administered questionnaires were completed by patternmakers and managers during visits to the companies by the researcher. The response rate of 83 % represented 50 companies employing 79 female and 40 male patternmakers. The independent variables were fashion change frequency and organizational strategy. The dependent job structure variables were task differentiation, skill variety, task identity, task significance, autonomy, and feedback. Results indicate that companies with high fashion change frequency and analyzer strategy require patternmakers with strong patternmaking skills. Companies with low fashion change frequency and defender strategy require patternmakers with diverse pre-production manufacturing skills and minimal patternmaking skills. Implications for pattermnaker education and for future research are discussed

Directional Variations in Fabric Properties and Seam Quality

Examines the effects of directional variations in woven fabric properties on the behaviour of fabrics as they are plied and sewn together to form a seam. This is an important practical consideration, since garment manufacturing frequently involves the sewing of two fabric plies of completely different and constantly changing bias angles — none of which is along the grain line. Examines the variations in the properties of five woven materials, all lightweight and commonly used in women's summer apparel. The Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) was used to measure the mechanical and surface properties of strips, cut at different angles, from the test materials. To investigate the effect of orientation on seam quality, two plies cut from the same fabric but at different angles were sewn together under selected conditions. The resulting seams were characterized for seam quality using AATCC standards.

Profitability of Women's Apparel Shops: Business Practices, Promotions, and Store/Owner Characteristics

In this survey study small, women's apparel retail stores (N=104) were analyzed on their business practices, promotional activities and objectives, and store/owner characteristics in relation to the store's profitability. Profitable stores appeared to be associated with marketing orientation, customer-oriented promotional tools, promotional strategies designed for both reputation of the store and immediate sales increase, and effective media and promotion selection. However, store/owner characteristics did not appear to influence store's profitability. By identifying key features of profitable stores, this research not only provided the specific mix of business practices and promotions for profitable stores but also contributed to development of apparel merchandising curriculum as well as public policy making in the small business area.

Brand Name Awareness and Image Perception of Women's Daytime Apparel

The objectives were (1) to investigate brand name awareness and image perceptions of nationally known women's brand name apparel and (2) to identify these characteristics of female consumers which influence brand preferences. The statistical analysis of data collected from 130 female students and 75 working women indicated brand name awareness was influenced by subjects' occupational status and clothing expenditure. Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren showed more distinctive image characteristics than 12 other national apparel brands. Brand preference was affected by brand attributes, clothing interest, clothing expenditure, and age. A few marketing implications were suggested.

Toward a Model of the In-Store Purchase Decision Process: Consumer Use of Criteria for Evaluating Women's Apparel

To identify criteria considered by consumers while making garment purchase decisions, free response interviews of 80 female customers were conducted at point of purchase in two specialty apparel stores. Subjects described the criteria they used to evaluate a garment they had tried on. The most important criteria for apparel assessment were related to aesthetics. Comparison of responses of customers who purchased and customers who did not purchase their garments revealed that different criteria had primary effects in two stages of the purchase process. During the Interest phase, color/pattern, styling, and fabric were most critical in influencing selection of garments from the display racks. Fit, styling, and appearance on the body were more important in determining rejection or adoption of the garments during the Trial phase in the dressing rooms. The research begins to fulfill a need for store intercept data collection, study of free responses minimally shaped by the researcher, and development of theoretical models of the apparel purchase process.

Discrete-Event Simulation in the Design of Textile Finishing Processes

The General Purpose Simulation System (GPSS) was used to model and perform a discrete-event simulation of a large textile finishing mill, producing a variety of woven and knit fabrics for sheeting and men's and women's apparel. This model was validated with actual mill operating data. Simulations were made to determine the effects of market demands, maintenance practices, quality control policies, and total production on equipment and manpower utilization, work-in-process, inventory, and total processing time. For this particular mill, the numbers of dye machines represented the primary bottleneck in increasing mill capacity, and the effect of adding more such machines on capacity was studied in further simulations.

Buying For the Small Apparel Retail Store: Job Content Across Four Merchandise Categories

The success of a retail store is dependent upon the skills and knowledge of the buyer. The purposes of this study were to investigate the job content of buyers in small apparel stores and to compare specific job elements across four merchandise categories: a) men's apparel, b) women's apparel, c) children's apparel, and d) accessory and other apparel. MANOVA was used to compare six divisions of worker-oriented job elements across the four merchandise categories and to test for differences between the variables which would indicate the most and least important/frequently usedjob components. There were 153 buyers who completed and returned surveys adapted from the Position Analysis Questionnaire (PAQ). The results indicated that some of the aspects deemed most important/frequently used by the buyers were judging quality, decision-making, consumer behavior, and attention to detail. Some of the least important/frequently used job aspects were estimating time, keyboard devices, buying offices, public speaking, and supervisors. Eight significant differences were found among the buyers of the four merchandise categories at the 05 alpha level in relationship to color perception, estimation of size, amount of physical exertion, persuasion, semi-professional personnel, civic obligations, travel, and responsibility for waste.

Color Analysis in the Marketplace

The impact of color analysis in the marketplace as perceived by managers of women's apparel in specialty and department stores was examined. Participants indicated that color analysis has been increasing in importance to specialty and department stores since 1983 and is predicted to be even more important to both types of stores by 1989. Results indicated that both specialty and department stores display and merchandise by related colors and code item on racks by color analysis groups. Sales associates use knowledge of color analysis as a sales tool.

A flammability hazard rating and index for women's apparel

Women's garments and the fabrics therein were analysed and characterized. Garments were grouped into garment assemblies, 60 of which were burned on Minnesota Woman, a thermally‐instrumented mannequin. Second and third degree burn injuries were calculated using Henriques' tissue damage factor. From 0 to 90% of the mannequin surface area equipped with sensors received second or third degree burn injury. A hazard index was developed based on degree of injury and the speed with which the injury occurred. Fabric and garment parameters found to be of importance in determining the hazard deduced from the mannequin tests were fabric weight, fibre content, and garment type and fit. A hazard rating was developed based on these parameters. Comparison of the hazard rating and the hazard index values indicated that this must be considered to be an exploratory, first stage attempt to develop a relatively simple method for rating the flammability hazard of apparel.

A Multivariate Method of Classif in Bod Form Variation for Sizing Women's Apparel

The purpose of this study was to develop a multivariate method for structuring a sizing system for women's apparel. The I 977 suvey of U.S. Army women was the data base. The sample was limited to 1217 subjects who were White or Black and 17-3 5 years old. The methodology underlying PS 42-70, the current U.S. sizing standard, was studied relative to recent changes in body form classification, apparel production, and merchandising which support development of multivariate methodology. Examination of PS 42-70 as a classification system for the sample showed inadequate proportioning of overall body dimensions, particularlyshoulder breadth and body segment lengths. The experimental method used components 1 and 2 to summarize body form variation as the relationship between body thickness and length. A Principal Component Sizing System (PCSS) was constructed by partitioning the distribution of principal components 1 by 2 into 26 sizes. A per subject comparison of "goodness of fit" of PS 42-70 and PCSS showed PCSS consistently closer to subjecfs' overall body proportions than PS 42-70. The multivariate relationship between body thickness and length is fundamental to body form and size variation. Our results indicate that PCSS better represents that relationship for the sample studied.

Eroticism in Baluyia Body Arts

Eroticism in Baluyia Body Arts

Teaching retarded women a clothing selection skill using community norms.

Five institutionalized retarded women were taught a clothing selection skill to coincide with popular fashion. Normative data concerning popular styles of color-coordinated clothing were collected through observations of women's apparel in a local community. Using a puzzle simulation of a woman with alternative pieces of colored clothing, color coordination training was conducted using modelling, instructions, practice, praise, and feedback to teach popular selections of color combinations. A generalization training component with actual clothing was also included. Training was accompanied by large increases in percentage of popular color selections with the puzzle and actual clothing. The increases maintained over a seven- to 14-week followup period. Time efficiency measures supported the use of the simulation procedure as opposed to total reliance on actual clothing. The results underscore the utility of local norms in community preparation programs and the efficacy of instructional procedures for severely and profoundly retarded persons as part of their participation in the deinstitutionalization movement.

婦人服イメージ評価に関する一試案

This article contributes to the evaluatingmethod of the fashion of women's apparels fromthe methodological point of view. At the firststep, the consumer's impressions of apparelsare investigated. An assumption is made thatthe whole impression, caused in the mind ofconsumers, can be expressed by the impressionterms which may be related to the apparel. A.factor analysis is carried out by using impres-sion terms as variables quantitatively determin-ed by the semantic differential method. It isconcluded that consumers accept women's ap-parels by impressions concerning to the threeitems; period, emotion and design. Concerningto the period, consumers tend to prefer theconsiderably prevailing fashion to the mostrecent one. Concerning to the emotion, no clearfeatures are found because of the markedindividuality of consumers. Concerning to thedesign, the apparel of simple in design tend tobe easily accepted by consumers.