Cosmetic Usage Research Articles

A Survey on Activities of Daily Living and Occupations of Upper Extremity Amputees

ObjectiveTo assess prosthetic use by upper extremity amputees, and their difficulties with prostheses in activities of daily living and occupations.MethodThis study is based on a survey of 307 subjects, who were using prostheses manufactured in the Center of Prosthetics and Orthotics. The survey questionnaire included items about general demographic characteristics, side and level of amputation, type of prosthesis and its use, and difficulties in the activities of daily living, employment and driving.ResultsThe most common type of prosthesis was the cosmetic hand type (80.2%). There were no statistically significant correlations between satisfaction with prosthesis and the amputation level or type of prosthesis. The most common difficulties in daily living activities experienced by amputees were lacing shoes, removing bottle-tops with a bottle opener, and using scissors. Only 7.3% of amputees received rehabilitation services. Less than half of the amputees (44.7%) used their prostheses for eight or more hours a day, and 76.9% used their prostheses for regular or irregular cosmetic purposes. After amputation, most of the respondents (69.0%) became unemployed or changed workplaces.ConclusionIn our study, respondents preferred cosmetic usage to functional usage. Only 30.0% of respondents reported satisfaction with their prostheses. Many of the amputees had difficulties in complex tasks and either changed jobs or became unemployed. Clerical workers were the occupation group, which was most likely to return to work. The development of a more functional prosthetic hand and additional rehabilitation services are required.

Effects of pre- and postnatal exposure to the UV-filter Octyl Methoxycinnamate (OMC) on the reproductive, auditory and neurological development of rat offspring

Octyl Methoxycinnamate (OMC) is a frequently used UV-filter in sunscreens and other cosmetics. The aim of the present study was to address the potential endocrine disrupting properties of OMC, and to investigate how OMC induced changes in thyroid hormone levels would be related to the neurological development of treated offspring.Groups of 14–18 pregnant Wistar rats were dosed with 0, 500, 750 or 1000mg OMC/kg bw/day during gestation and lactation. Serum thyroxine (T4), testosterone, estradiol and progesterone levels were measured in dams and offspring. Anogenital distance, nipple retention, postnatal growth and timing of sexual maturation were assessed. On postnatal day 16, gene expression in prostate and testes, and weight and histopathology of the thyroid gland, liver, adrenals, prostate, testes, epididymis and ovaries were measured. After weaning, offspring were evaluated in a battery of behavioral and neurophysiological tests, including tests of activity, startle response, cognitive and auditory function. In adult animals, reproductive organ weights and semen quality were investigated.Thyroxine (T4) levels showed a very marked decrease during the dosing period in all dosed dams, but were less severely affected in the offspring. On postnatal day 16, high dose male offspring showed reduced relative prostate and testis weights, and a dose-dependent decrease in testosterone levels. In OMC exposed female offspring, motor activity levels were decreased, while low and high dose males showed improved spatial learning abilities. The observed behavioral changes were probably not mediated solely by early T4 deficiencies, as the observed effects differed from those seen in other studies of developmental hypothyroxinemia. At eight months of age, sperm counts were reduced in all three OMC-dosed groups, and prostate weights were reduced in the highest dose group. Taken together, these results indicate that perinatal OMC-exposure can affect both the reproductive and neurological development of rat offspring, which may be a cause of concern, as humans are systematically exposed to the compound through usage of sunscreens and other cosmetics.

Migration of phthalates from soft PVC packaging into shower and bath gels and assessment of consumer risk

Phthalates are used as plasticizers in many commodities and materials. Therefore, they are found everywhere as contaminants in food and in environmental samples. Due to their potential for developmental and reproductive toxicity, some congeners pose a health risk for consumers and their use is legally restricted with bans and limits. This, however, applies only partly to their usage in cosmetics, toys and packaging materials. Phthalates used as plasticizers in cosmetic packaging could be a previously unknown source of exposure for consumers. In market surveys of the state laboratory of Basel-City, conspicuously high levels of di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) and di-iso-nonyl phthalate (DINP) were found in shower and bath gels packed in soft PVC shaped as animals or fruits. The concentrations found ranged from 0.02 to 1.3%. It could be shown that concentrations increased significantly during storage. It can therefore be assumed that the phthalates found migrated from the packaging into the gels. The estimated exposure of adults and children to DEHP and DINP of 3.5 and 4.6 μg/kg bw/day, respectively, which may result when using the tested gels does not pose a health risk for the consumer (exposure value below TDI). Regarding the high background contamination levels with phthalates in other sources, exposure from cosmetics should be kept as low as possible. The establishment of limits for phthalates in cosmetics is discussed.

Owning "the dreadful truth"; Or, Is Thirty-Five Too Old?: Age and the Marriageable Body in Wilkie Collins's Armadale

Lisa Niles, "Owning 'the dreadful truth'; Or, Is Thirty-Five Too Old?: Age and the Marriageable Body in Wilkie Collins's Armadale" (pp. 65–92) Wilkie Collins's Armadale (1864–66) offers a sensational critique of the increasing popularity of cosmetics usage in 1860s London and its relationship to perceptions of aging and the marriage market. Looking younger than her thirty-five years, Collins's antiheroine Lydia Gwilt challenges the terms upon which Victorian society constructed a middle-class, marriageable female identity. In Lydia, Collins produces a character that succeeds in a competitive marriage market by performing a simulacrum of youth. And the narrative suggests that her beauty depends not merely upon Nature but also upon her knowledge of the arts of its preservation, particularly as Gwilt is associated with Mother Oldershaw, a fictive double for Madame Rachel, the infamous London cosmetics purveyor who stood trial for fraud in 1868. By examining the novel alongside Punch cartoons, trial transcripts, beauty manuals, and reviews, I claim that Lydia Gwilt's character resists a simplistic cosmetics-as-fraud reading and exposes a public whose desires are predicated upon the fraudulent practices it critiques. The artificial threat that cosmetics serve functions as a site through which to explore the real threat—the criminality of a body that successfully passes as younger in a marriage market dependent upon regularizing youth and demarcating age. To be thirty-five and look it is unremarkable, perhaps pitiable; to be thirty-five and not look it is a crime.

A Research Study on Collegians' Behavior of Purchasing Cosmetics - A comparison between male and female students -

A survey was conducted to 337 students enrolled in 4 colleges and 3 universities in Jeollabuk province in an attempt to investigate their behavior of purchasing cosmetics and compare and analyze the difference in their behaviors between gender with a view to provide basic data necessary for production plans of cosmetics manufacturers and sales and marketing plans of logistic companies, and also to give guidelines for collegians to refer to for wise spending of their money for cosmetics.BR From the analysis, it was revealed that there was statistically significant difference by gender in factors such as amount of purchasing cosmetics (χ2=47.655, P=.000), main decision makers for purchase (χ2=34.762, P=.000), payers for purchase (χ2=14.560, P=.006), purchasing places (χ2=16.947, P=.009), kinds of cosmetics they want to get as gifts (χ2=68.376, P=.000) and factors for selecting cosmetics.BR It is therefore suggested for manufacturers and logistic companies of cosmetics to work out active and direct promotion, advertisement, presentation and provision of test products to female students who visit cosmetic shops. For male students, on the other hand, emphasis should be placed on providing basic information to ensure them to compare prices among manufacturers and also objective and versatile depth information through internet shopping malls. First of all, efforts should be made to offer precise and detailed instruction about proper usage and effects of cosmetics as they are essential products related directly to skin health in their daily living. On the part of cosmetic market, skin care-related industry and diet food market that have grown with a great volume and potential, they should join the endeavors to instruct consumers to keep their skin healthy and beautiful by focusing rather on educational activities like distribution of informative data about skin care and reasonable selection of proper cosmetics as well as field education, than focusing exclusively on sales-oriented advertisements.

Little Emperors grown up: a case study of cosmetic usage

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to explore how the pressures of being a Little Emperor in a rapidly changing society are reflected in consumer experiences, particularly in the meanings attached to products and brands. The paper aims to focus on young adults in urban China, specifically young professional women.Design/methodology/approachThe subject was shadowed at work for two weeks during the Spring of 2007 and for an additional two weeks during the Spring of 2008. Social interactions and purchasing behavior were carefully observed, as well as conducting a series of informal interviews. During the Summer of 2008, a formal, in‐depth interview was conducted with an informant in the USA.FindingsThe unique pressures of growing up as a Little Emperor in a changing society are widely reflected in product usage and are ways in which to ease the tension and anxiety associated with the pressure of maintaining expectations from friends, family, and society.Research limitations/implicationsThe study focused on a single informant who, while on the surface appearing to represent adult Little Emperors, may in fact have different attitudes from her contemporaries. It would be interesting to investigate the degree to which parallel themes occur in the male market, namely what categories young urban professional men who were raised as Little Emperors use to express themselves.Practical implicationsThe research provides insights into some of the conflicting expectations derived directly from the experience of growing up as a Little Emperor. It translates these insights into practical recommendations for various aspects of marketing and advertising cosmetic products in China, thus allowing multinationals to build successful marketing campaigns that appeal to managing these conflicting expectations.Originality/valueThe paper is the first work on the consumer experiences of urban young adult Little Emperors, specifically young professional women.

Dermatitis alérgica de contacto por cosméticos

IntroductionContact dermatitis to cosmetics is a common problem in the general population, although its prevalence appears to be underestimated. We reviewed cases of allergic contact dermatitis to cosmetics diagnosed in our dermatology department over a 7-year period with a view to identifying the allergens responsible, the frequency of occurrence of these allergens, and the cosmetic products implicated. MethodsUsing the database of the skin allergy department, we undertook a search of all cases of allergic contact dermatitis to cosmetics diagnosed in our department from January 2000 through October 2007. ResultsIn this period, patch tests were carried out on 2,485 patients, of whom 740 were diagnosed with allergic contact dermatitis and the cause was cosmetics in 202 of these patients (170 women and 32 men), who accounted for 27.3 % of all cases. A total of 315 positive results were found for 46 different allergens. Allergens most often responsible for contact dermatitis in a cosmetics user were methylisothiazolinone (19 %), paraphenylenediamine (15.2 %), and fragrance mixtures (7.8 %). Acrylates were the most common allergens in cases of occupational disease. Half of the positive results were obtained with the standard battery of the Spanish Group for Research Into Dermatitis and Skin Allergies (GEIDAC). The cosmetic products most often implicated among cosmetics users were hair dyes (18.5 %), gels/soaps (15.7 %), and moisturizers (12.7 %). ConclusionMost patients affected were women. Preservatives, paraphenylenediamine, and fragrances were the most frequently detected cosmetic allergens, in line with previous reports in the literature. Finally, in order to detect new cosmetic allergens, cooperation between physicians and cosmetics producers is needed.

Allergic Contact Dermatitis to Cosmetics

Introduction Contact dermatitis to cosmetics is a common problem in the general population, although its prevalence appears to be underestimated. We reviewed cases of allergic contact dermatitis to cosmetics diagnosed in our dermatology department over a 7-year period with a view to identifying the allergens responsible, the frequency of occurrence of these allergens, and the cosmetic products implicated. Methods Using the database of the skin allergy department, we undertook a search of all cases of allergic contact dermatitis to cosmetics diagnosed in our department from January 2000 through October 2007. Results In this period, patch tests were carried out on 2485 patients, of whom 740 were diagnosed with allergic contact dermatitis and the cause was cosmetics in 202 of these patients (170 women and 32 men), who accounted for 27.3% of all cases. A total of 315 positive results were found for 46 different allergens. Allergens most often responsible for contact dermatitis in a cosmetics user were methylisothiazolinone (19%), paraphenylenediamine (15.2%), and fragrance mixtures (7.8%). Acrylates were the most common allergens in cases of occupational disease. Half of the positive results were obtained with the standard battery of the Spanish Group for Research Into Dermatitis and Skin Allergies (GEIDAC). The cosmetic products most often implicated among cosmetics users were hair dyes (18.5%), gels/soaps (15.7%), and moisturizing creams (12.7%). Conclusion Most patients affected were women. Preservatives, paraphenylenediamine, and fragrances were the most frequently detected cosmetic allergens, in line with previous reports in the literature. Finally, in order to detect new cosmetic allergens, cooperation between physicians and cosmetics producers is needed.

Herbal cosmetics in ancient India

The ancient science of cosmetology is believed to have originated in Egypt and India, but the earliest records of cosmetic substances and their application dates back to Circa 2500 and 1550 B.C, to the Indus valley civilization.[1] There is evidence of highly advanced ideas of self beautification and a large array of various cosmetic usages both by men and women, in ancient India. Many of these practices were subtly interwoven with the seasons (Sanskrit: Rutus) and the normal rituals of life (Sanskrit: Dinacharyā). Significantly, the use of cosmetics was directed not only towards developing an outwardly pleasant and attractive personality, but towards achieving merit (Sanskrit: Punya), Longevity with good health (Sanskrit: Aayush and Aarogyam) and happiness (Sanskrit: Anandam). In this context, the earliest reference of a beautician is from the great epic Mahabharata, where the Pandavas were in exile incognito. Draupadi worked for the queen of Virāta (Northern district of India). She called herself Sairandhri (A female attendant in the women's sections of the palace). There is a reference of her carrying a Prasādhana Petikā (A vanity case containing substances to beautify, toiletries and accessories to decorate).[2,3] The word cosmetics defined as “Substances of diverse origin, scientifically compounded and used to i) cleanse, ii) allay skin troubles, iii) cover up imperfections and iv) beautify” (Encyclopedia Britannica, 1970), is used in this paper in a wider sense to include Oral hygiene as well. Different Lepās (Masks or applications) were recommended for different seasons for body beautification. The ingredients used during the cold seasons were quite different from those used in warm seasons. In fact Ashtānga Hridaya (a 1500 year old book of Ayurveda) offers six different formulations to be used for the six seasons of the year. Similarly special cosmetic Tailams (Oils) and Ghritas (Clarified butter or ghee) were used for facial beautification. Superfluous hair was considered to be a stigma and a large number of depilatory agents were recommended to get rid of it. Special ingredients were used for hair washes. Many remedies have been indicated for hair growth, prevention of falling hair and premature graying. Hair dyes, fragrant hair rinses and fumigants were also in use. Fragrant bath powders and body deodorants also find frequent mention. Oral hygiene in the form of care of teeth, mouth deodorants and coloring of lips were daily chores to be religiously pursued. It appears that the whole range of modern cosmetic usage was conceived by the ancient Indians and was practiced with the help of natural resources then available. In the book published by the author,[4] 210 different botanicals have been studied and 314 formulations are listed and described. Of these 151 botanicals are identified, 21 are unidentified, and 38 remain uncertain. The scientific name of the plant species is followed by references equating the Sanskrit/Prakrit name or synonym and the references given in parenthesis relate to the scientific name only. A few examples are cited below to understand the trouble taken by ancient researchers to evolve the Science of cosmetics.

Response to the Letter to the Editor

Dear Sir, A number of cosmetic ingredients need to be more evaluated in terms of skin penetration. The cutaneous passage of parabens in respect to their lipophilicity and the number of applications was studied during our experiments. The passage of paraben esters had been shown: it was depending on their polarity: the less lipophilic molecules cross the skin more easily than the most lipophilic ones. Our investigation showed that the penetration of these molecules depends also on the number of applications, the passage of paraben esters being increased after each deposit. The aim of our inquiry was to imitate the current usage of cosmetics in daily life (applying many cosmetic products a day, and usually for a long period). Our results are leading to a suggestion that ‘increasing the permeation could provoke, in a long period, an accumulation within fatty tissues’. Thus, our study was an investigation on the cutaneous absorption of paraben esters but not on paraben’s toxicity. According to the comments of Mr Godfrey we would like to clarify some points. Indeed, we agree with Mr Godfrey that our experiments did not demonstrate the accumulation of parabens even after repeated applications, but just an increased permeation. We only suggested that such an increased permeation could lead to an accumulation. The role of metabolic processes and excretion must been taken, in fact, into consideration. Mr Godfrey reminds that parabens are hydrolyzed by esterases present in the skin and refers to the mentioned reference in our paper (1). Indeed, we do not know what occurs in terms of esterases activities in the skin placed within Franz cells. Nevertheless, only a part (and not the totality) of parabens seems to be metabolized (1). In our conclusion, we only indicated that there is a possibility of accumulation. In the second group of experiments (three applications of the lotion), it was done intentionally to imitate the usual usage of cosmetics as it was explained in our paper. Concerning skin integrity after 36 h, a number of studies assessed the cutaneous passage of molecules for more than 24 h: 48 h of investigation (2,3) and 36 h of investigation (4). The aim of our work was to evoke the suspected side effects of parabens and our introduction quoted some references showing the necessity for parabens to be more studied in order to draw conclusions about their toxicity or their innocuity. We understand that Mr Godfrey develops his own analysis about the relationships between parabens and breast cancer. It was absolutely not the aim of our study to explicate such aspect of parabens. Finally, we can understand the position of Mr Godfrey by defending the paraben’s usage in cosmetic formulations. We are grateful to Mr Godfrey for developing some comments about parabens, and this long development shows that the analysis of parabens penetration remains an important issue.

The effects of facial image and cosmetic usage on perceptions of brand personality

PurposeThis paper seeks to examine women's perceptions of brand personality in relation to women's facial image and cosmetic usage. This study seeks to develop a better understanding of how various factors influence perceptions of cosmetic brands.Design/methodology/approachAn electronic survey was administered to a sample of 225 female participants at a mid‐Atlantic university in the USA. The survey included items measuring facial image, cosmetic usage, brand personality, and brand attitude. Multiple regression analyses were conducted to determine the relationship among variables.FindingsWhile the brand personality of competence was found to be important across all three brands, consumer perceptions pertaining to the remaining brand personality traits differed. This study found that consumers' facial image influenced the total quantity of cosmetics used but not the variation in quantity in different situations. Results also indicate that a relationship exists between facial image and brand perceptions. Also, it was found that a different group of brand personality traits influenced brand attitude for each cosmetic brand.Research limitations/implicationsBy examining how facial image and cosmetic usage determine brand perceptions, companies can improve their marketing strategies to enhance customer satisfaction and increase their customer base. Moreover, by identifying the brand personalities that attract consumers, companies can pin‐point the characteristics customers look for in a product, which in turn can be used to enhance brand image. Further research on different age groups and cultures should be conducted to better understand cosmetic consumers.Originality/valueThis study contributes to the body of knowledge in the area of consumer behavior and cosmetics. From this study, a better understanding of cosmetic consumers is gained and the results provide brand marketers with valuable information.

Global encounters: ‘Barbie’ in Nigerian Agbogho-mmuo mask context

This is a discussion of the American Barbie doll image as a representation of globalised beauty that impinges on Nigerian standards of beauty exemplified in this essay by Agbogho-mmuo mask of the Igbo ethnic group. Although Barbie is a corporate product and the mask is sacred, the difference is minimised by their mutual focus on representations of idealised beauty. The focus is on the encounter between two ideas of beauty represented by Barbie on the one hand and Agbogho-mmuo on the other. As part of the global image-making network, the Barbie image influences the dynamics of the perception of beauty in Nigeria and this adversely affects the health of women and contributes to the decline of indigenous Nigerian cosmetic usage, production and practises. The discussion of the variety of images represented by the range of Barbie doll imagery and the female mask helps the reader appreciate the problems of Barbie's body dimensions and skin and hair colour for Nigerians with different skin colour and body expectations. This paper argues that the odds seem to be against the Nigerian ‘ideal’ because of the country's weakened economic base as it encounters the globally empowered Barbie doll, and is therefore in favour of a strengthening of a Nigerian cultural base.

Cosmetovigilance survey: Are cosmetics considered safe by consumers?

Cosmetics are largely diffused substances topically applied to wash, to perfume or to improve the look, nevertheless the number of reported adverse reactions is very low, probably because of underreporting. This could be due to self-diagnosis and self-medication that is common in the presence of not severe reactions. In fact adverse reactions to cosmetics are generally not serious and frequently related to skin alterations. The aim of our study was to assess, through a questionnaire supplied by community pharmacists to the customers, the prevalence and characteristic of adverse cosmetic events (ACEs) reported by interviewed and the consequent measures adopted. To this aim ten Naples’ community pharmacies were involved and pharmacists agreed to submit a specific questionnaire to all the customers of the pharmacy for two weeks between 9:00 a.m.–01:00 p.m. and 04:00 p.m.–08:00 p.m. from 1 to 15 June. The subjects interviewed were 4373, of them 845 refused to fill the questionnaire. Females responding to the questionnaire were 2716 and males 812. The 98.5% of the respondents reported to use cosmetics. Cosmetic users who experienced at least one ACE were 848 and 18.2% of them reported more than one event. Total adverse cosmetic events reported were 1507. A significant higher prevalence of adverse cosmetic events in women was observed, since the 26.5% of female cosmetic users experienced an adverse cosmetic event, whereas the percent was 17.4 for males. Concerning the type of adverse event, the 95.9% was a cutaneous event, whereas systemic events accounted for 4.1%. Among cutaneous reactions burning and itching were the most prominent and accounted for 36.3 and 32.9%, respectively. The most frequently reported systemic event was headache (40.3%) followed by nausea (24.2%). Product change (45.7%) and product suspension (39.6%), were the main specific measures adopted in the presence of ACEs. The general practitioner or the pharmacist were consulted only in the 6.8 and 6.3% of the episodes, respectively. In the 56.5% of the episodes consultation was not requested, whereas in the 26% a specialist was consulted. In conclusions our results, although supply information about ACEs and the consequent measures adopted by consumers of a restricted geographical area suggest that, due to the large use of these products and the relative high incidence of reported ACEs, the problem of cosmetic related injuries and the need of a system able to report, collect and evaluate them, cannot be ignored.

Botulinum toxin type A injections: Adverse events reported to the US Food and Drug Administration in therapeutic and cosmetic cases

Botulinum toxin type A (BTA) (Botox) received Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approval for therapeutic treatment of strabismus and blepharospasm in 1989, cervical dystonia in 2000, and cosmetic treatment of glabellar wrinkles (Botox Cosmetic) in 2002. In 2002 alone there were approximately 1.1 to 1.6 million patients using cosmetic BTA. Our objective was to review adverse event (AE) reporting to the FDA after BTA administration. We reviewed all (therapeutic and cosmetic use) serious (per FDA regulations) AEs reported to the FDA for the 13.5 years since licensure of the product (December 1989-May 2003) and nonserious AEs reported from December 2001 to November 2002. AEs are reported to the FDA through the MedWatch system. We reviewed 1437 AE reports; 406 followed therapeutic use of BTA (217 serious and 189 nonserious) and 1031 followed cosmetic use (36 serious and 995 nonserious). Reported AEs occurred predominantly in female patients, with a median age of 50 years. In the year December 2001 to November 2002, when both serious and nonserious reports were evaluated, the proportion of reports classified as serious was 33-fold higher for therapeutic than for cosmetic cases. The 217 serious AEs reported in therapeutic cases involved a wide spectrum of events and included all 28 reported deaths. Among cosmetic users, no deaths were reported and, of the 36 serious AEs, 30 were included as possible complications in the FDA-approved label. The remaining 6 serious AEs did not display a pattern suggesting a common causal relationship to BTA. Among the 995 cosmetic cases reported to have nonserious AEs, most commonly noted were lack of effect (623, 63%), injection site reaction (190, 19%), and ptosis (111, 11%). Serious AEs were more likely to be reported for therapeutic than for cosmetic use, which may be related to higher doses, complicated underlying diseases, or both. Among cosmetic cases, few serious AEs were reported, and these were predominantly events that were previously recognized in clinical trials of BTA for the labeled use. This study is limited primarily by the incomplete nature of AE reporting by clinicians. Numerous departures from FDA-approved recommendations for drug dose, dilution, handling, site of injection, and storage were noted in these AE reports.

Is “What Has Been Cared For” Necessarily Good? Further Evidence for the Negative Impact of Cosmetics Use on Impression Formation1

The effects of cosmetics on impression formation were tested with students from either psychology or business and aesthetic schools. They were presented photographs of young and older female targets wearing or not wearing facial makeup and rated them for both physical attractiveness and a number of personality traits. In contrast with Graham and Jouhar's (1981) idea of a positive cosmetic stereotype, makeup had a negative impact on impression formation, especially for the young targets. More consistent with these authors' perspective, this impact was not mediated by attribution of physical attractiveness (PA), suggesting the existence of a separate cosmetic stereotype (relative to the PA stereotype). The influence of makeup was also stronger on the psychology undergraduates than on the other participants, suggesting that the way cosmetic users are perceived also depends on perceivers' group membership.

Sex, beauty, and the relative luminance of facial features.

It has been suggested that the consistent luminance difference between the darker regions of the eyes and mouth and the lighter regions that surround them forms a pattern unique to faces. One of the more consistent uses of cosmetics to make the female face more attractive is to darken the eyes and mouth relative to the surrounding skin. The hypothesis that the size of the luminance difference between the eyes and mouth and the rest of the face affects the attractiveness of male and female faces differently was tested in four experiments in which attractiveness ratings were obtained for images of faces in which the luminance difference between the eyes and mouth and the rest of the face had been manipulated. Female faces were found to be more attractive when this luminance difference was increased than when it was decreased, and the opposite was found for male faces. An interpretation consistent with these results is that the luminance difference between the eyes and mouth and the rest of the face is naturally greater in women than men. In this case increasing or decreasing the luminance difference will make a face more feminine or masculine, respectively, and hence, more or less attractive depending on the sex of the face. Implications for the causes of cosmetics usage are discussed.

Estudo da variação do pH da pele humana exposta à formulação cosmética acrescida ou não das vitaminas A, E ou de ceramida, por metodologia não invasiva

FUNDAMENTOS: Os cosméticos hidratantes melhoram a pele, aproximando-a de suas condições ideais, pois aumentam a quantidade de água no estrato córneo. As vitaminas A e E, bem como as ceramidas, são substâncias ativas que vêm sendo muito empregadas em hidratantes, os quais constituem uma das mais importantes classes de produtos cosméticos e de higiene corporal. OBJETIVO: - O objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar o efeito no pH cutâneo da pele humana de uma emulsão O/A (constituída de base auto-emulsionante não iônica) acrescida, ou não, de vitamina A palmitato ou vitamina E acetato ou ceramida III, por metodologia não invasiva MÉTODOS:O estudo foi realizado em 40 mulheres com idade entre 30 e 45 anos, empregando-se o equipamento Skin Phmeter PH 900 PC. As medidas foram efetuadas no antebraço das voluntárias nos tempos de sete e 30 dias após auto-aplicação diária (duas vezes ao dia), dos produtos envolvidos no estudo RESULTADOS E CONCLUSÃO: A presença das vitaminas A ou E, ou da ceramida não alterou de maneira significativa o pH da pele, o que mostra que as formulações estudadas são adequadas para o uso cosmético.

Factors Defining Sensitive Skin and its Treatment

Background: Users of cosmetics and skin care products often report adverse reactions ranging from itching and dryness to intense inflammatory responses such as erythema or wheal and rash. Self-assessment is not always an accurate parameter for categorizing skin as sensitive or nonsensitive, although it can be valuable. For this reason, it is important to define sensitive skin by more objective factors. Objective: Studies were undertaken to determine if objective biophysical measurements could detect differences in barrier function between those individuals who identified themselves as having sensitive skin and those self-identified as having normal skin. In addition, the effects of treatment on barrier functions of individuals with sensitive skin were determined. Methods: Three main factors that contribute to cutaneous reactivities were observed for the estimation of skin sensitivity: barrier functions, reactivity to irritants, and neuronal responses manifested as sensory reactions. Barrier functions of the skin was tested by gentle removal of the stratum corneum with simple cellophane tape stripping followed by measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) as a marker of barrier loss. The onset and intensity of skin reaction against an irritant, balsam of Peru, was tested on the same individuals to observe the reactivity of their skin. Using the lactic acid sting test, additional information regarding skin sensitivities was obtained. Results: Sensitive skin individuals exhibiting easy barrier damage possess delicate skin that is also highly reactive to irritants. When these individuals used a regimen of products that contained minimal preservatives and no surfactants for 8 weeks, the skin barrier and reactivity changed such that it was similar to nonsensitive skin. Conclusions: Skin sensitivity is observed because of a combination of factors, including a disrupted barrier and a tendency to hyperreact to topical agents. Treatment with special topical skin care formulations can reduce overall skin sensitivity.

Factors defining sensitive skin and its treatment

Background : Users of cosmetics and skin care products often report adverse reactions ranging from itching and dryness to intense inflammatory responses such as erythema or wheal and rash. Self-assessment is not always an accurate parameter for categorizing skin as sensitive or nonsensitive, although it can be valuable. For this reason, it is important to define sensitive skin by more objective factors. Objective : Studies were undertaken to determine if objective biophysical measurements could detect differences in barrier function between those individuals who identified themselves as having sensitive skin and those self-identified as having normal skin. In addition, the effects of treatment on barrier functions of individuals with sensitive skin were determined. Methods : Three main factors that contribute to cutaneous reactivities were observed for the estimation of skin sensitivity: barrier functions, reactivity to irritants, and neuronal responses manifested as sensory reactions. Barrier functions of the skin was tested by gentle removal of the stratum corneum with simple cellophane tape stripping followed by measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) as a marker of barrier loss. The onset and intensity of skin reaction against an irritant, balsam of Peru, was tested on the same individuals to observe the reactivity of their skin. Using the lactic acid sting test, additional information regarding skin sensitivities was obtained. Results : Sensitive skin individuals exhibiting easy barrier damage possess delicate skin that is also highly reactive to irritants. When these individuals used a regimen of products that contained minimal preservatives and no surfactants for 8 weeks, the skin barrier and reactivity changed such that it was similar to nonsensitive skin. Conclusions : Skin sensitivity is observed because of a combination of factors, including a disrupted barrier and a tendency to hyperreact to topical agents. Treatment with special topical skin care formulations can reduce overall skin sensitivity.

Long-term follow-up of 50 Duke silicone prosthetic fingers

Thirty-three patients with single and multiple digital amputations were fitted with a total of 50 prosthetic silicone fingers over a mean period of 4 years. The prosthetic fingers were custom made using a special method which has been modified at our institution. This study provides a detailed analysis of patients' occupational and cosmetic usage of and satisfaction with their prostheses, as well as describing the fabrication technique.