In 1971 the US Army Corps of Engineers inventoried the stability of the nation's coastlines, concluding in their final summary, A Report on the National Shoreline Study, that of the 135,000 km of coastline, some 33,000 km were seriously eroding. More recently, Dolan et al (1983) assembled the existing data on shoreline changes for the United States, reaffirming the magnitude of this problem. Although such inventories have not been undertaken for the entire world's shorelines, coastal erosion is undoubtedly a global problem. Beach erosion is for the most part episodic, with the major retreats in the shoreline occurring during unusually intense storms. On the east coast of the United States, beach erosion and property losses are produced by nor'easters and hurricanes; on the west coast, intense storms move down from the Gulf of Alaska, generating waves that attack the coastline. This obvious association of beach erosion with the energy level of storm waves creates an oversimplified impression of the actual physical processes involved in the erosion. Only recently have we begun to understand and appreciatc the diversity of processes that are actually involved in coastal erosion. It is now recognized that long-period oscillations may dominate water motions in the nearshore, sometimes containing more energy than the storm-generated waves. These oscillations, as well as a variety of nearshore currents, rearrange the beach sand to cause highly variable rates of shoreline retreat along even short stretches of beach. Although the long term rise in sea level has been recognized as an important factor in shoreline
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