AbstractEconomic fluctuation is one of the important factors for fashion color planning. Black is a color that stands out especially when the economy stagnates. Although the correlations between different uses of the color black and economic trends have been long recognized by fashion professionals, it is difficult to find a meaningful empirical analysis of the difference in the use of black depending on the economic situation. The purpose of this study is not only to quantitatively analyze the different usages of the color black in relation to economic situation in the field of fashion, but also to prove whether black is in greater use during economic recession and to provide basic data for fashion color planning accordingly. In addition, this study analyzed the symbolism of black qualitatively along with quantitative data to explain the background of black as a representative color of depression. In this study, the economic outlook is classified from the viewpoint of comprehensive economy, consumers, and businessmen and the differences of how black was used in fashion are analyzed. As an indicator of economic fluctuation, Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) Composite Leading Index, OECD Consumer Confidence Index and OECD Business Confidence Index are used to categorize economic uptrend (positive mood) and economic downtrend (negative mood). The fashion colors collected from the 2001‐2010 New York collection were divided into S/S and F/W seasons. As a result of the analysis, there was no difference in the use of black according to the OECD Composite Leading Index and Consumer Confidence Index, both in the S/S and the F/W seasons. But the use of black increased in both the S/S and the F/W seasons when businessmen predicted recession. The analysis shows that black fashion merchandise volume is increased by 5% in the F/W season and 7% in the S/S season when businessmen expect the economy to be negative mood. The reason why black products are highlighted in the recession is because black is the symbol of will, charisma, and temperance, and is the basic color that occupies the largest proportion in the fashion collection. During economic recession there is more attention on business look, and black is an element of the androgynous look for the contemporary armor and of power‐dressing to complete the business look, as a color for the spirit and inner strength. Black is the color that is the most preferred color in the fashion field. At the time of recession when everything is uncertain from the standpoint of fashion merchandisers, black with its multifaceted attributes cannot be denied to be the best choice to appeal to consumers.
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