Treatment Of Skin Aging Research Articles

Effectiveness of a Radiofrequency Device for Rejuvenation of Aged Skin at Home: A Randomized Split-Face Clinical Trial.

IntroductionSeveral techniques, including the use of radiofrequency (RF) devices, are currently utilized for the treatment of skin aging. This study aimed to evaluate the anti-aging effects imparted by a home-based RF beauty device and to compare these results with those of a marketed anti-aging cosmetic in vivo.MethodsThirty-three women aged 35–60 years were enrolled in this randomized, controlled, split-face trial. This study involved a 12-week trial with five repeated measurements (at baseline, 2, 4, 8 and 12 weeks). One side of the face was randomly selected to be part of the experimental group and treated with the RF beauty device, while the other side was considered as control and was treated with an anti-aging cosmetic. Treatment safety was evaluated. Skin wrinkles, hydration, radiance, elasticity, color and thickness were evaluated using noninvasive equipment.ResultsThirty-two participants completed the study; one withdrew for personal reasons. Compared with the anti-aging cosmetic-treated facial side, the experimental side showed statistically significant improvements in wrinkles, skin radiance, color and thickness (p < 0.05).ConclusionsThe home-based RF beauty device was safe and effective for rejuvenation. The device was more effective than the commercially available anti-aging cosmetics.

Study of biological markers in skin quality treatment by subcutaneous injection of a stabilized composition of 26 mg/mL of high molecular weight HA

Aim: Hyaluronic acid (HA) injectables have gained rapid acceptance for the treatment of skin rejuvenation. A novel HA/sorbitol composition intended for skin quality improvement containing 2.6% of high molecular weight HA stabilized by sorbitol was recently designed to be injected subcutaneously. The aim of this study was to assess the expression of biological markers of skin quality after administration of the composition. Methods: The HA/sorbitol composition was evaluated after injection into the superficial adipose tissue with ex vivo cultured human skin explants versus a product comparator to study the general morphology of the skin tissues and the expression of HA, elastin, collagen type I, collagen type III, and fibrillin-1 in the dermal layer. Results: The results demonstrate that the HA/sorbitol composition is able to boost the production of HA, elastin, collagen type I, collagen type III, and fibrillin-1 in the dermis while providing a proper quality of skin morphology. Conclusion: The HA/sorbitol composition improved biological markers of skin quality in the dermis after product injection into the superficial adipose tissue. This novel composition can be considered as an attractive solution to treat skin aging by injecting a specific HA/sorbitol formulation to strategically target the subcutaneous tissue to improve the quality of the different layers of the skin.

Senotherapeutic Drugs: A New Avenue for Skincare?

Skin aging is an outward manifestation of other cellular and molecular aging processes occurring elsewhere in the body. These processes are known collectively as the "hallmarks" of aging, which are a series of basic health maintenance mechanisms that fail over time. Cellular senescence is one of the most studied of the hallmarks of aging; senescent cells accumulate over time and are major drives of the aging process. Here, we discuss the impact of cellular senescence in the context of skin aging, and discuss the emerging landscape of interventions designed for their selective removal by targeted cell death (senolytics) or rejuvenation (senomorphics). We discuss the serotherapeutic strategies that are currently under investigation for systemic aging, which may bring eventual benefits for skin health. Next, we discuss a newly discovered hallmark of aging, dysregulated mRNA processing, which can be targeted for the senomorphic effect. Finally, we highlight a new modality for manipulation of disrupted mRNA processing, oligonucleotide therapeutics. The emerging field of senotherapeutics is set to revolutionize how we view and treat skin aging, and senotherapies are now poised to become a new class of skincare interventions.

Adipose Collagen Fragment: A Novel Adipose-Derived Extracellular Matrix Concentrate for Skin Filling.

Skin filler is an option for treating skin aging and wrinkles; however, currently used fillers are limited by poor biocompatibility, rapid degradation, and possible hypersensitivity reactions. Autologous adipose tissue-derived products have been recognized as promising options for skin rejuvenation. This study aimed to develop a novel adipose-derived product for skin filling. Adipose collagen fragment (ACF) was prepared through pulverization, filtration, and centrifugation. The macrography, structure, types of collagen, and cell viability of ACF were evaluated by immunostaining, western blotting, and cell culture assays. ACF, nanofat, and phosphate-buffered saline (9 spots/side, 0.01 mL/spot) were intradermally injected in the dorsal skin of 36 female BALB/c nude mice; the skin filling capacity and the collagen remodeling process were then investigated. Twenty-one female patients with fine rhytides in the infraorbital areas were enrolled and received clinical applications of ACF treatment. Therapeutic effects and patients' satisfaction scores were recorded. The mean [standard deviation] yield of ACF from 50 mL of Coleman fat was 4.91 [0.25] mL. ACF contained nonviable cells and high levels of collagen I, collagen IV, and laminin. Fibroblasts and procollagen significantly increased in ACF and ACF-treated dermis (P < 0.05). Overall, 85.7% of patients were satisfied with the therapy results, and no infections, injection site nodules, or other unwanted side effects were observed. ACF significantly improved dermal thickness and collagen synthesis and may serve as a potential autologous skin filler.

Structural and Functional Changes and Possible Molecular Mechanisms in Aged Skin.

Skin aging is a complex process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Together, these factors affect the structure and function of the epidermis and dermis. Histologically, aging skin typically shows epidermal atrophy due to decreased cell numbers. The dermis of aged skin shows decreased numbers of mast cells and fibroblasts. Fibroblast senescence contributes to skin aging by secreting a senescence-associated secretory phenotype, which decreases proliferation by impairing the release of essential growth factors and enhancing degradation of the extracellular matrix through activation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Several molecular mechanisms affect skin aging including telomere shortening, oxidative stress and MMP, cytokines, autophagic control, microRNAs, and the microbiome. Accumulating evidence on the molecular mechanisms of skin aging has provided clinicians with a wide range of therapeutic targets for treating aging skin.

Modulation of Photoaging-Induced Cutaneous Elastin: Evaluation of Gene and Protein Expression of Markers Related to Elastogenesis Under Different Photoexposure Conditions.

IntroductionPhotoaging is the process by which ultraviolet rays gradually induce clinical and histological changes in the skin through the production and organization of biological molecules, such as elastin, which is critical to skin strength and elasticity. After exposure to radiation, elastin may undergo alternative mRNA splicing, resulting in modified proteins that contribute to the formation of aging characteristics, such as solar elastosis. The present work aimed to study two different forms of elastin under these conditions: normal elastin and elastin that had been altered in exon 26A.MethodsThese different forms of elastin were characterized for gene expression by quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (qPCR) and for protein expression by immunohistochemistry of ex vivo skins (from photoexposed and non-photoexposed areas) and in vitro reconstituted skin. In addition, up- and downstream molecules in the elastin signaling cascade were evaluated.ResultsAs a result, a significant increase in the gene expression of elastin 26A was observed in both ex vivo photoexposed skin tissues and the in vitro photoexposed reconstituted skins. Additionally, significant increases in the gene expression levels of matrix metalloproteinase-12 (MMP12) and lysyl oxidase (LOX) were observed in the ex vivo skin model. The evaluation of protein expression levels of some photoaging markers on the reconstituted skin revealed increased tropoelastin and fibrillin-1 expression after photoexposure.ConclusionThis work contributes to a better understanding of the biological mechanisms involved in photoaging, making it possible to obtain new strategies for the development of dermocosmetic active ingredients to prevent and treat skin aging.

A stress-induced miR-31-CLOCK-ERK pathway is a key driver and therapeutic target for skin aging.

Regressive changes in epithelial stem cells underlie mammalian skin aging, but the driving mechanisms are not well understood. Here, we report that mouse skin hair follicle stem cell (HFSC) aging is initiated by their intrinsic upregulation of miR-31, a microRNA that can be induced by physical injury or genotoxic stress and is also strongly upregulated in aged human skin epithelium. Using transgenic and conditional knockout mouse models plus a lineage-tracing technique, we show that miR-31 acts as a key driver of HFSC aging by directly targeting Clock, a core circadian clock gene whose deregulation activates a MAPK/ERK cascade to induce HFSC depletion via transepidermal elimination. Notably, blocking this pathway by either conditional miR-31 ablation or clinically approved MAPK/ERK inhibitors provides safe and effective protection against skin aging, enlightening a promising therapeutic avenue for treating skin aging and other genotoxic stress-induced skin conditions such as radiodermatitis.

Assessment of clinical efficacy of lidocaine/tetracaine 7%/7% peel cream in fractional microablative laser procedure-associated pain for facial skin aging treatment. A randomized, controlled, single-blind trial.

Lidocaine/tetracaine 7%/7% peel cream (L/T-pC) is very effective in reducing pain in several dermatological procedures, such as hair or tattoo laser removal or conventional photodynamic therapy associated pain. Fractional laser resurfacing (FLR) is an effective treatment strategy for facial skin aging. The main drawback of FLR is the procedure-associated pain. So far, no controlled data are available regarding the efficacy of L/T-pC in reducing pain during a full-facial microablative FLR session in subjects with facial skin aging. To assess the clinical efficacy of L/T-pC in reducing pain during microablative FLR treatment in subjects with facial skin aging. We conducted a prospective, randomized, parallel-group, controlled, single-blind trial, performed in out-patients attending to a Laser Clinic for facial skin aging treatment. A total of 30 subjects (4men, 26 women; mean age 42±10years; range 28-57) with mild to moderate facial skin aging (Glogau score ≥2), suitable for FLR treatment, were enrolled after their written informed consent. Participants were randomized to L/T-pC application (45min before the laser treatment with the removal of the cream just before the starting of laser session) (n=20) or to control (emollient cream; n=10). FLR was performing using a fractional microablative CO2 laser (Smartxide DOT 2 Deka) using a pulse power of 18W (range 15-20) and pulse duration of 1.5msec. The primary endpoint was the comparison of the mean visual analogue score (VAS) values between the two groups using a 10-cm scale (0=no pain; 10: the most severe pain). The VAS score was measured just after the FLR session. Effective anesthesia (percentage of subjects with a VAS score ≤3) and the assessment of local tolerability and safety of the peel cream were the secondary trial endpoints. All the enrolled subjects concluded the trial. In the L/T-pC group, the VAS mean score was 3.0±1.2. In the control group, the VAS mean score was 8.6±0.5, representing a 65% reduction of the VAS score in the active treated group vs. controls. The difference between the two groups was statistically significant (p=0.0001; Mann-Whitney test) with an absolute difference of -5±0.4cm; 95%CI of the difference: from -4.6 to -6.4cm). Adequate anesthesia (VAS score≤3) was reported in 80% of subjects in the active group vs. 0% in the control arm. The cream was very well tolerated. One subject in the active group manifested moderate/severe edema in the cream application area, subsiding in 6h. No other side effects were reported. The application of L/T pC 7%/7% peel cream before a fractional laser resurfacing session significantly reduced the procedure-associated pain with good tolerability and safety profile.

Rejuvenative Efficacy and NF-κB Pathway-Dependent Mechanism of Human Platelet Lysate on Skin Aging

Background: Skin aging is an irreversible process associated with poor self-regenerative capability. Human platelet lysate (hPL) contains rich amounts of growth factors, benefiting tissue regeneration. To explore the anti-aging efficacy and mechanism of hPL on skin, this study employed nude mice and human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) to perform in vitro and in vivo assays. Methods: Flow cytometry and ELISA were conducted for quality control of hPL. In vivo, skin texture grading, histopathological observation, immunofluorescence analysis, and SOD and MDA assays were conducted to determine the effects of hPL on epidermis and dermis of aged skin. In vitro, senescence-associated-beta-galactosidase (SA-β-Gal) staining, CCK-8 and wound healing assays were conducted to respectively evaluate the effects of hPL on senescent HDFs. Real time PCR and western blot were conducted to clarify the molecular mechanism of hPL. Moreover, a retrospective analysis was conducted to determine hPL′s efficacy and safety in clinic. Findings: The in vivo data showed that hPL exerted pro-regenerative and anti-oxidative effects on aged skin, resulting in reversing aged skin state. The in vitro data showed that hPL significantly promoted the proliferation and migration of HDFs and suppressed the inflammation, SASP secretion and senescence state of senescent HDFs through regulation of NF-κB signaling pathway. The NF-κB pathway-dependent mechanism of hPL was positively verified by using P65 siRNA and negatively verified by using prostratin. In clinic, hPL obviously rejuvenated the skin appearances of subjects without any adverse event. Interpretation: This study provided novel knowledge of hPL, making it an ideal therapeutic for skin aging treatment. Funding Information: This work was supported by National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 81774331 and No. 81671926), Zhejiang Provincial Basic Public Welfare Research Program (Grant No. LGF18H110003), Zhejiang Provincial Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. LQ20H150008) and Hangzhou Science and Technology Development Program (Grant No. 20180533B38). Declaration of Interests: The authors have declared that no competing interest exists. Ethics Approval Statement: All blood specimens used in this study were approved by Ethical Committee of the Zhejiang Chinese Medical University. Informed consent was obtained from healthy adult donors. All mice were treated in strict accordance with the China legislation on the use and care of laboratory animals. All experiments on the mice were approved by the Medical Norms and Ethics Committee of Zhejiang Chinese Medical University (Approval number SYXK:2018-0012, Zhejiang, China).

Shikimic acid protects skin cells from UV-induced senescence through activation of the NAD+-dependent deacetylase SIRT1.

UV radiation is one of the main contributors to skin photoaging by promoting the accumulation of cellular senescence, which in turn induces a proinflammatory and tissue-degrading state that favors skin aging. The members of the sirtuin family of NAD+-dependent enzymes play an anti-senescence role and their activation suggests a promising approach for preventing UV-induced senescence in the treatment of skin aging. A two-step screening designed to identify compounds able to protect cells from UV-induced senescence through sirtuin activation identified shikimic acid (SA), a metabolic intermediate in many organisms, as a bona-fide candidate. The protective effects of SA against senescence were dependent on specific activation of SIRT1 as the effect was abrogated by the SIRT1 inhibitor EX-527. Upon UV irradiation SA induced S-phase accumulation and a decrease in p16INK4A expression but did not protect against DNA damage or increased polyploidies. In contrast, SA reverted misfolded protein accumulation upon senescence, an effect that was abrogated by EX-527. Consistently, SA induced an increase in the levels of the chaperone BiP, resulting in a downregulation of unfolded protein response (UPR) signaling and UPR-dependent autophagy, avoiding their abnormal hyperactivation during senescence. SA did not directly activate SIRT1 in vitro, suggesting that SIRT1 is a downstream effector of SA signaling specifically in the response to cellular senescence. Our study not only uncovers a shikimic acid/SIRT1 signaling pathway that prevents cellular senescence, but also reinforces the role of sirtuins as key regulators of cell proteostasis.

MALAYSIAN HERBS IN SKIN AGING AND HYPERPIGMENTATION

In the beauty and wellness industries, the association between herbs, skin aging, hyperpigmentation, and cosmeceuticals is gaining significance. The process of skin aging occurs in the epidermal and dermal layers and is primarily associated with the deterioration of the extracellular matrix (ECM). Deterioration of ECM can be due to increased matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) or decreased transforming growth factor-β (TGF-β). Along with some pigment defects such as hypo or hyperpigmentation, this process can cause skin wrinkles, roughness, and dryness. There is a need to slow down the ECM degradation and inhibition of melanin formation. Herbs have a high potential due to their various biologically active compounds. Malaysia is one of the countries rich in tropical rainforests with its traditional medicinal herbs. However, the use of Malaysian herbs in skin aging and hyperpigmentation is still limited. Thus, this review focuses on selected Malaysian herbs that are traditionally used for various purposes and have potential as anti-aging and anti-hyperpigmentation properties. The information contained in the present review indicates that selected Malaysian herbs can be used in the treatment of skin aging and hyperpigmentation and will assist the cosmetics sectors in the development of herbal anti-aging and antihyperpigmentation formulations.

Chitosan hydrogel-loaded MSC-derived extracellular vesicles promote skin rejuvenation by ameliorating the senescence of dermal fibroblasts

BackgroundThe senescence of dermal fibroblasts (DFLs) leads to an imbalance in the synthesis and degradation of extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins, presenting so-called senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP), which ultimately leads to skin aging. Recently, mesenchymal stem cell (MSC)-derived extracellular vesicles (EVs) have been recognized as a promising cell-free therapy for degenerative diseases, which opens a new avenue for skin aging treatment.MethodsIn this study, we utilized chitosan (CS) hydrogel for effective loading and sustained release of EVs. In vitro, we explored the rejuvenation effects of CS hydrogel-incorporated EVs (CS-EVs) on replicative senescence DFLs through a series of experiments such as senescence-associated β-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) staining, RT-PCR, and Western blot analysis. Besides, we employed local multi-site subcutaneous injection to treat skin aging of naturally aged mice with CS-EVs and DiI fluorescent dye was used to label EVs to achieve in vivo real-time tracking.ResultsCS-EVs can significantly improve the biological functions of senescent fibroblasts, including promoting their proliferation, enhancing the synthesis of ECM proteins, and inhibiting the overexpression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Moreover, CS hydrogel could prolong the release of EVs and significantly increase the retention of EVs in vivo. After CS-EVs subcutaneous injection treatment, the aging skin tissues showed a rejuvenation state, manifested explicitly as the enhanced expression of collagen, the decreased expression of SASP-related factors, and the restoration of tissue structures.ConclusionsCS hydrogel-encapsulated EVs could delay the skin aging processes by ameliorating the function of aging DFLs. Our results also highlight the potential of CS hydrogel-encapsulated EVs as a novel therapeutic strategy for improving aging skin to rejuvenation.

Tracing skin aging process: a mini- review of in vitro approaches.

Skin is a rather complex, yet useful organ of our body. Besides, skin aging is a complicated process that gains a growing interest as mediates many molecular processes in our body. Thus, an efficient skin model is important to understand skin aging function as well as to develop an effective innovative product for skin aging treatment. In this mini review, we present in vitro methods for assessments of skin aging in an attempt to pinpoint basic molecular mechanisms behind this process achieving both a better understanding of aging function and an effective evaluation of potential products or ingredients that counteract aging. Specifically, this study presents in vitro assays such as 2D or 3D skin models, to evaluate skin aging-related processes such as skin moisturization, photoaging, wound healing, menopause, and skin microbiome as novel efforts in the designing of efficacy assessments in the development of skincare products.

Emodin induces collagen type I synthesis in Hs27 human dermal fibroblasts.

Fibrillar collagen and elastic fibers are the main components of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM), which confers mechanical strength and resilience to the skin. In particular, type I collagen produced by fibroblasts is the most abundant collagen that determines the general strength of the ECM, thereby contributing to the prevesntion of the skin-aging process. Although the natural anthraquinone derivative emodin (1,3,8-trihydroxy-6-methylanthraquinone) exerts numerous beneficial effects, including antiviral, anticancer, anti-inflammatory and wound-healing effects in diverse cells, the effect of emodin on collagen expression or skin aging is not fully understood. The present study demonstrated that exposure to emodin increased type I collagen synthesis in a concentration- and time-dependent manner in Hs27 human dermal fibroblasts. Subsequent experiments showed that emodin strongly increased collagen type I levels without altering cell proliferation or cellular matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression. Additionally, it was determined that increased phosphorylation of 5' AMP-activated protein kinase, following emodin treatment, was responsible for increased type I collagen synthesis. These findings clearly indicate that emodin plays an important role in collagen type I synthesis in dermal fibroblasts, thereby making it a potential drug candidate for treating skin aging and wrinkles.

Adipose-Derived Stem Cells Improve the Aging Skin of Nude Mice by Promoting Angiogenesis and Reducing Local Tissue Water.

Adipose-derived stem cells (ASCs) are considered promising cells for skin rejuvenation. However, whether the angiogenetic effect of ASCs plays an important role in the treatment of aging skin and its influence on skin tissue remain elusive. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of ASCs on angiogenesis and local tissue water (LTW) in the aging skin of nude mice. Twelve nude mice were randomly divided into a UVB-induced photoaging group and a natural aging group. After the mouse model had been established, ASCs and phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) were then each injected into different sides of the dorsal skin of the mice. Blood perfusion and LTW content were measured. After 7 weeks, mice were killed, and skin samples were collected to measure the thickness of the dermis, the density of the capillaries, and the expression of angiogenic growth factors. ASC therapy significantly increased the thickness of the dermis, the number of capillaries, and the expression of some angiogenic growth factors (vascular endothelial growth factor, insulin-like growth factor 1, and epidermal growth factor). At 7 weeks after injection, blood perfusion was significantly higher on the side injected with ASCs than on the side injected with PBS. LTW content was increased in the PBS-injected side, but the ASC-injected side showed no significant changes over time. ASCs increased dermal thickness, promoted angiogenesis, and reduced LTW content in the skin of photoaging mice, providing a potential clinical therapy for skin rejuvenation.

Kinetics of Hyaluronidase Inhibition by Rice (Oryza sativa L.) Protein Hydrolysate

Research on the skin’s maintenance and protection against aging has gradually progressed toward phytocosmetics. This study investigated the in vitro hyaluronidase inhibitory activity of rice protein hydrolysate obtained by using bacterial amylase and protease against skin aging-related enzymes. Here, the molecular weights of rice protein hydrolysates were in the range 5–63 kDa. Every 100 g of a rice protein hydrolysate contains approximately 2960 mg of total amino acid, including essential amino acids (893 mg) and branched-chain amino acids (591 mg). A kinetic study showed that hyaluronidase inhibition by the rice protein hydrolysate occurs through a competitive reaction mechanism. Achieving effective hyaluronidase inhibitory activity, the rice protein hydrolysate had a half maximal inhibitory concentration of 7.61 mg/mL. Because hyaluronidase activity inhibition is crucial for treating skin aging, rice protein hydrolysates should be considered as cosmeceutical ingredients.

The Paracrine Effect of Adipose-Derived Stem Cells Orchestrates Competition between Different Damaged Dermal Fibroblasts to Repair UVB-Induced Skin Aging.

Background Human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) are the primary cells in skin and are associated with UVB-induced skin photoaging. Adipose-derived stem cells (ASCs) have been proposed as a treatment for skin aging. The goal of this study was to investigate paracrine mechanisms by which ASCs repair HDFs damage from UVB exposure. Methods ASCs were cocultured with UVB-irradiated and nonirradiated HDFs. We compared HDF senescence, proliferation, migration, oxidative stress, and cytokine expression. In a nude mouse UVB-induced photoaging model, ASCs were injected subcutaneously, and skin samples were collected weekly between postoperative weeks 3 through 7. Histological analysis, PCR, ELISA, and immunohistochemistry were used to analyze the effect of ASCs. Results Compared with UVB-irradiated HDFs, nonirradiated HDFs showed higher proliferation and migration, reduced apoptosis, and fewer senescent cells when cocultured with ASCs. The expression of extracellular matrix-related cytokines was also regulated by ASCs. In addition, ASCs effectively reversed UVB-induced skin photoaging in vivo. We propose that ASCs more robustly coordinate healthy HDFs than UVB-damaged HDFs to repair aging skin. Conclusions ASCs improved the function of both UVB-damaged and healthy HDFs through paracrine effects. However, the impact of ASCs on healthy HDFs was greater than UVB-damaged HDFs. These findings help to elucidate the underlying mechanisms of the skin rejuvenation effect of ASCs.

Design and Characterization of Sodium Alginate and Poly(vinyl) Alcohol Hydrogels for Enhanced Skin Delivery of Quercetin.

Nature has led to the discovery of biopolymers with noteworthy pharmaceutical applications. Blended biopolymers have demonstrated promising characteristics when compared with their individual counterparts. Sodium alginate (SA) is a marine polymer that has demonstrated the ability to form hydrogels, an interesting property for the development of cutaneous formulations. Predicting the good performance of blended biopolymers, a novel series of hybrid hydrogels based on SA and poly(vinyl) alcohol (PVA) were prepared. Quercetin, a natural polyphenolic flavonoid commonly found in fruits and vegetables, is widely known for its strong anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity, thus with potential applications against melanoma, dermatitis, psoriasis, and skin ageing. Here, hydrogels were produced at different ratios of SA and PVA. The surface morphology, structure, interaction of polymers, the capacity to absorb water and the entrapment efficiency of quercetin were evaluated for the blended hydrogels. Targeting the cutaneous application of the formulations, the rheological properties of all unloaded and quercetin-loaded hydrogels revealed pseudoplastic behavior, evidence of non-thixotropy, good resistance to deformation, and profile maintenance with temperatures ranging from 20 °C up to 40 °C. The incorporation of quercetin in the hydrogel retained its antioxidant activity, confirmed by radical scavenging assays (ABTS and DPPH). The permeability of quercetin through the skin showed different penetration/permeation profiles according to the hydrogel’s blend. This behavior will allow the selection of SA-PVA at 2/1 ratio for a local and prolonged skin effect, making the use of these hydrogels a good solution to consider for the treatment of skin ageing and inflammation.

A new phytocosmetic preparation from Thymus vulgaris stimulates adipogenesis and controls skin aging process: In vitro studies and topical effects in a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial.

The use of the injectable products for soft tissue augmentation and treatment of skin aging is an uncomfortable, invasive and related to several complications, and chronic reactions, mainly after long-term application. Efforts to develop new topically active anti-aging products with fewer adverse effects are a huge challenge that should be faced. We evaluated the anti-aging effects of a phytocosmetic preparation containing Thymus vulgaris associated with lecithin (ThymLec) on the facial wrinkles, expression lines, and face oval remodeling using a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial and in vitro cell culture assays. A clinical trial was conducted to evaluate the effects of ThymLec 2% on the area, length, and depth of the perioral and crow's feet wrinkles, nasolabial and smile lines, as well as face oval remodeling in female volunteers using a sophisticated Bio3D Structured-light Scanner. In the in vitro studies using 3T3-L1 mouse embryonic fibroblasts, adiponectin was measured by immunoenzymatic assay, adipogenesis by the AdipoRed reagent method, and the PPAR-γ expression by RT-PCR analysis. Topical treatment with ThymLec 2% reduced facial wrinkles and expression lines promoting a face oval remodeling. In the in vitro studies, ThymLec upregulated the PPAR-γ expression increasing adiponectin production and stimulating the adipogenesis process. The phytocosmetic preparation containing Thymus vulgaris and lecithin is an innovative and safe topical anti-aging product promoting fat tissue augmentation by adipogenesis stimulation via the upregulation of PPAR-γ expression and adiponectin production.

A standardized Terminalia chebula fruit extract alters the expression of genes associated with skin architecture and barrier formation.

Terminalia chebula (TC) is a deciduous tree of which extracts have demonstrated efficacy for treatment of photodamage, skin aging, and wound healing. However, molecular and cellular mechanisms underlying these benefits remain unclear. To profile dermal expression responses to a standardized tannin-enriched TC fruit extract (Synastol® TC). Microarrays were used to evaluate gene expression in three-dimensional reconstituted human skin cultures. Genome-wide expression responses to TC were the opposite to those observed in cells exposed to oxidative stress, solar-simulated UV radiation, and wounding, with increased expression of genes associated with water homeostasis, skin barrier establishment, blood vessel development, and circadian rhythms. TC also increased expression of extracellular matrix components, such as collagens (COL1A1, COL1A2) and proteoglycans (PRELP, OGN), and in separate assays, we showed that TC inhibits MMP enzymes (MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-3, MMP-9, MMP-12) and microbial activity (S. aureus, P. acnes). Unexpectedly, mRNA and protein levels of late keratinocyte (KC) differentiation markers (FLG, LOR) were increased by TC, and expression responses in skin cultures broadly resembled those that occur with KC differentiation. Consistent with these results, TC increased expression of transcription factors regulating KC differentiation (FOS, GHRL3, PPARG) and we noted enrichment of AP-1 binding sites in regions upstream of TC-increased genes. These results demonstrate that functionally important TC extract responses occur in the epidermis and are therefore not restricted to the dermal layer. Our findings thus suggest mechanisms by which TC may strengthen full-thickness skin architecture for treatment of skin aging and/or chronic wounds.