In the original Netflix competition reality TV series The American Barbecue Showdown, “eight of the country's best backyard smokers and pit masters vie for the title of American Barbecue Champion in a fierce but friendly face off.” A voiceover during the introductory episode proclaims that barbecue in America is “all about history and personal style.” That may be so, but this food competition show is light on the history of the foundations of cooking with smoke and fire. Netflix's entry in the judged cooking competition pantheon does have its enjoyable elements—especially for carnivorous barbecue enthusiasts—and showcases some serious talent, but it ultimately serves up a menu of meat-centric entrees with limited historical and cultural context, thus replicating tired culinary gender tropes and conforming to the majority of reality food television programming. Showdown continues the early twenty-first-century tradition of the “sportification” of cooking seen across streaming and cable platforms with series like Tailgate Warriors, Top Chef, and Chopped. These shows present timed, judged individual and team competitions that infuse a sense of drama and spectacle into mediated cooking culture. Showdown sprinkles in a dash of public barbecue history to this formula, thus making it of potential interest to JSH readers.The series opens with the promise that “eight of the boldest smokers in America are here to throw down the best barbecue of their lives.” The contestants are tasked with challenges such as creating animal-protein-laden combo plates, constructing towering smoked-meat sandwiches, puzzling out how to cook unfamiliar wild game, and devising complementary side dishes for scrutiny by two judges over the course of eight episodes of timed competitions. At the end of each episode, one barbecue chef is crowned “Star Pitmaster,” while the one who served the least appetizing dishes is “smoked out” of the competition.The talent starts with the judges, two award-winning, renowned pit masters: Kevin Bludso and Melissa Cookston. The eight title challengers range from barbecue champions to novice competitors, with the majority hailing from the American South or Midwest. Two largely superfluous hosts round out the cast of characters. Unlike many cooking-themed reality television series, the cast of American Barbecue Showdown is a fairly diverse one, with three women and four Black American members among the contestants. The episodes were all filmed in an event space in rural Georgia that features a cavernous barn outfitted with professional kitchens, full pantries, and a well-stocked meat locker. State-of-the-art grilling and smoking equipment and supplies are set up in the area outside the barn. Showdown hews closely to the formula of successful cooking competition shows like Tailgate Warriors and The Great British Bake-Off; Bludso and Cookston visit contestants to inquire about techniques and cooking choices as the competitors prepare their menus, the cooks reflect on their ingredients and share personal stories in individual interviews, and the judges and hosts offer a running commentary on the action in the lead-up to tasting the final dishes.As in the Food Network's Tailgate Warriors, when the judges speak with contestants, meat is at the center of the discussion. The judges are primarily concerned with what protein the cook is going to showcase for a particular challenge, whether he or she will have enough time to prepare the meat to the judges’ satisfaction, and if the contestant is maintaining hot enough grills and running clean or dirty smoke. Comparatively little consideration is given to vegetarian sides or desserts. In one exchange during episode two, the hosts and judges remark on one challenger's decision to serve a simple garden salad, with Cookston declaring, “Well, let me tell you, it better be the best damn garden salad I've ever had. It better come out of forty-two gardens. . . . I'm worried.” Indeed, the catch phrase the hosts employ to signal that cooking time is up is “Show me the meat!”The “Cooking It Old School” episode begins with an acknowledgment that barbecue has a deep and complicated history, then whitewashes that history into two eras: precolonization and antebellum. The precolonization time period is marked simply by Indigenous cooking methods, while the antebellum era is euphemistically described by Bludso as the time when “our ancestors cooked farm animals over oven pits.” The broader cultural context and the effects of colonization and enslavement on cooking practices during those decades of U.S. history go unremarked upon. Historical awareness in Showdown is perhaps best summed up by Cookston when she declares, “If you're a true barbecuer, you love being in the fire, in the smoke. We have always paid homage to that primal instinct of cooking meat with fire.”
Read full abstract