This paper examines gender performativity and identity as expressed through facial beauty filters, as mainstreamed on dominant social media platforms Instagram and TikTok. It provides a framework for the widespread use of augmented reality (AR) filters on social media, which we theorize in relation to feminist and queer methodologies, as well as screen theories of “seamfulness” and “mechanic sutures.” With reference to studies of selfie culture, social media, and digital beauty norms, as well as illustrative examples of the facial filters’ design and use, we consider idealized forms of cisgender feminine appearance as well as queer and nonbinary forms of identity. Our case studies range from analysis of the viral Bold Glamour makeup filter to custom filters made by musicians Björk and Ariana Grande. We highlight potential benefits to these filters, including their ability to playfully shield the user’s face from a critical gaze, to reduce costs associated with presenting idealized forms of beauty, and to offer nonbinary users liminal media spaces through which to explore self-image. Overall, the paper provides a theoretical model for understanding the widespread use of facial filters on social media and their impact for intersectional gendered dynamics. It also provides important historical and conceptual context to dominant critical discourse that foregrounds their negative impact on women over other potential benefits.
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