It’s 5:15, and I am awoken by the sound of chirruping crickets. Not the crickets outside my bedroom window – of which there are plenty – but the very punctual and vocal group that have taken up residence in my iPad. Never having been much of a morning person, this gentle alarm is set early enough for me to have a few minutes gathering myself together before getting up. Today is the middle of the working week (which is Sunday to Thursday in Oman as in all the Gulf States) so, as on every work day, smart dress is required: a shirt and tie, dark trousers and black shoes.