of Art's noted collection of eighteenthcentury porcelain figures are three small sculptures one of which was made at the Capodimonte factory, near Naples, and the others at Buen Retiro, outside Madrid, that depict characters from the commedia dell'arte eating spaghetti. Each piece portrays the character Pulcinella, alone or with one or more companions. No commedia dell'arte character is more closely associated with food than Pulcinella. He appears to have been invented in 1628 by the Neapolitan actor Silvio Fiorillo, while another actor, Andrea Calcese, called Cuiccio, was known for refining the role.' The character was introduced to France, where he was known as Polichinelle, by Giovanni Briocci at the end of the seventeenth century.2 In England he was called Punch. The extraordinary circumstances surrounding Pulcinella's birth are described in a lazzo, or comic interlude, recorded by Adriani di Lucca in 1734: explains to Coviello that he was born before his father. When Coviello says this is impossible, Pulcinella replies that while his father was walking in Toledo, he fell asleep and barely missed being run over by a carriage. A passerby screamed at him, 'You must have been born yesterday!' Since this happened a year ago, Pulcinella maintains that he must have been born before his father.3
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