Skin Imperfections Research Articles

Exploring the Intersection of Body Dysmorphic Disorder (BDD) and Dermatological Conditions: A Narrative Review.

This narrative literature review examined the intricate relationship between body dysmorphic disorder (BDD) and dermatological conditions, with a brief focus on those characterized by conspicuous skin irregularities such as acne vulgaris, psoriasis, and vitiligo. Highlighting the significant prevalence of BDD among individuals afflicted with dermatological issues, our analysis illuminated the profound psychological repercussions stemming from an exaggerated preoccupation with perceived skin imperfections. Through an exploration of the underlying BDD symptoms, we analyzed the complex dynamics between skin health and mental well-being, emphasizing the disorder's impact on patients' psychological and social functioning. This narrative review further investigated the consequential effects of BDD on essential aspects of dermatological treatment, including patient adherence to therapeutic regimens, overall quality of life (QOL), and the effectiveness of available treatments. In addition to presenting current therapeutic approaches, we advocate for the integration of psycho-dermatological interventions tailored to mitigate the dual burden of skin conditions and psychological distress. Future research directions proposed include longitudinal studies to assess the long-term effects of BDD on skin disease prognosis and psychosocial well-being, which aim to refine and optimize treatment modalities to contribute to a more holistic understanding of BDD within dermatological practice.

Efficacy, Tolerability, and Face Lipidomic Modification of New Regimen with Cleanser and Corrective Serum in Women with Acne-Prone Skin

Acne-prone skin is a common condition in adult women, and skin imperfections could affect quality of life and self-esteem. This study aimed to investigate the efficacy of a cosmetic combination regimen for face care (a cleanser gel and a serum containing niacinamide, retinol, and alpha hydroxy acids). A total of 20 women with acne-prone mixed or oily skin were enrolled in a prospective 42-day trial. Sebum content, skin radiance, skin profilometry, and evaluation of face area occupied by pores were evaluated at baseline and after 14, 28, and 42 days. In addition, a face lipidomic evaluation was performed at baseline and after 42 days. Finally, self-assessment questionnaires at each visit checkpoint were performed to evaluate efficacy and tolerability of the tested products. All the subjects but one concluded the study. Both products were very well tolerated and 84% of the subjects reported a global clinical improvement. Skin sebum content was significantly (p < 0.05) reduced at each of the evaluation time points (−9.9% at day 14, −19.4% at day 28, and −23.7% at day 42). The tested regimen significantly decreased the gloss parameter (mattifying effect) at day 14, 28, and 42, with a maximum reduction of 7.2% at the end of the study period. The pores area demonstrated a significant reduction at each of the checkpoint evaluations in comparison with baseline. Inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions were significantly reduced by 16% at day 28 and day 42 (p < 0.01). Lipidomic analysis demonstrated that this cosmetic face care regimen induced significant and positive effects in face sebum lipids composition, characterized by a significant increase in ceramides and triacylglycerols and a decrease in fatty acids and oxidized fatty acids.

Efficacy and Tolerance Evaluation of pbserum smartker Equilibrium Professional

Introduction. Skin acts as a complete barrier protecting against external aggressions and keeps the body’s internal balance. The loss of its firmness and elasticity is a complex process associated with cutaneous aging, which implies intrinsic and extrinsic factors that promote changes in the dermis, epidermis, and abnormal pigmentation. In recent years, treatments for improving skin health and beauty have advanced significantly, which has raised great interest in the related technology. Objective. To evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of pbserum smartker Equilibrium Professional in terms of skin firmness and tone improvement, wrinkle reduction, and visible signs of skin aging. Materials and Methods. A non - controlled study was carried out on 22 subjects aged 24 to 70 years old. They had normal and mixed skin with minor imperfections, excluding those with relevant dermatologic pathologies or under specific treatments. Measurements were made by subjective dermatologic evaluation, high - definition photography with the VISIA® device, and non - comedogenicity evaluation. Subjects applied the product once a week for four weeks, and the product was well tolerated with no reported adverse effects. Results. An average improvement of 27 % was observed regarding the unification of skin tone and imperfections after 28 days of use; 77 % of the patients were satisfied, and 63 % were willing to buy the product. The dermatologic evaluation did not find evidence of comedogenicity, high user satisfaction and good product tolerability. Conclusions. A significant improvement was shown in tone unification and skin imperfections, with high satisfaction from the users and a good tolerability of the product.

Formulation and Evaluation of Soap Containing Extracts of Various Ethnomedicines

The herbal soap’s formulation includes neem leaf; all herbal ingredients are easily obtained from the local herbal market. Use of cosmetics is part of caring for the skin and other body parts due to the damaging effects of modern pollution and UV rays on human health; aloe plants produce a material used in cosmetic goods to treat burns, psoriasis, acne, and other skin disorders; preparation of herbal soap is a medication or therapy with therapeutic benefits for the skin, including antibacterial and antifungal qualities; the raw material used to make soap has a number of properties that make it a good medicinal or cosmetic. The plant used to manufacture soap has properties that can help eliminate acne, soften the skin’s epidermis, increase penetration, and hasten healing and resolution. Natural remedies like aloe vera are used to both prevent and cure a range of skin conditions. The medicinal properties of aloe vera soap include antiseptic, antimicrobial, antiviral, antioxidant, and antifungal properties. The aloe vera plant features tubular yellow blossoms, many-seeded fruits, and triangular, fleshy leaves with serrated edges. Each leaf consists of three layers: an inner, transparent gel that contains 99% water and glucomannans, amino acids, lipids, sterols, and vitamins in the remaining 2%. The intermediate layer of latex is composed of a bitter-yellow sap. Neem provides additional medicinal benefits. Studies have demonstrated the anti-inflammatory, anti-hyperglycemic, anti-ulcer, antimalarial, antifungal, antibacterial, antimutagenic, and anticarcinogenic properties of neem and its chemical components. Tulsi provides many skin-benefiting qualities, such as beep-clean skin. Turmeric and vitamin C are also used to help tone the skin when treating breakouts. Homegrown cleaning solutions with medicinal or sedative qualities, such as antimicrobial and antifungal qualities, can benefit the skin. The rough material used in the cleanser formulation has multiple prescription drugs or cosmetics attached to it. The plant used in cleanser formulations has the ability to smooth out skin imperfections, enhance skin texture, prevent breakouts, and hasten healing and resolution.

Experience of using drospirenone/ethinyl estradiol combination in women of reproductive age

Introduction. A woman’s unwillingness to enter pregnancy due to social and somatic factors is associated with a high risk of its termination and concomitant complications. A personalized selection of a method of contraception is necessary, which best meets the needs of a woman, including in achieving non-contraceptive effects.Aim. To evaluate the effectiveness, safety and compliance indicators when using a combined drug (3 mg of drospirenone + 20 mcg of ethinyl estradiol) in women in the early and mature reproductive period.Materials and methods. A study involving 68 women (polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS), n = 31, adenomyosis, n = 20, uterine fibroids, n = 7, a combination of 2 or more diagnoses) was conducted on the basis of the Scientific polyclinic Department of the V.I. Kulakov National Research Medical Center of the Ministry of Health of the Russian Federation) of reproductive age (18–34 years) who took a combined contraceptive drug for 6 months or more. The control of the results was carried out on the basis of monitoring in the form of a survey.Results. The average time of use of the drug was 9 (Q₁–Q₃: 8–11) months. After 3 and 6 months, 77.8% (21/27) and 100% of the observed patients, respectively, noted a decrease in the severity of PMS symptoms. 91.7% (n = 11/12) of patients noted a subjective decrease in the severity of acne and/or hirsutism after 6 months. 91.3% (n = 21/23) of women with copious painful menstruation noted normalization of the bleeding profile (volume of menstrual blood loss). 95.6% (65 patients out of 68) noted 100% compliance in the use of the drug.Conclusions. The drug Dimia has a favorable profile of clinical and pharmacological safety and efficacy, along with the complete reversibility of contraceptive action when actualizing the issue of the realization of reproductive function. The advantages of the drug are to achieve well-studied non-contraceptive effects, in which patients with PCOS, internal endometriosis and uterine fibroids are interested, in the form of relieving manifestations of PMS and reducing the severity of dysmenorrhea, as well as cosmetic skin imperfections (acne-type rashes, hirsutism). Thus, the drug can be recommended to women of reproductive age as a reliable contraceptive, as well as to achieve non-contraceptive effects.

Экспериментальное исследование поведенческих аттитюдов молодежи в отношении лиц с дефектами кожи

The article presents the study of the correlation between an explicit attitude and an implicit tendency of nearing/distancing from people with skin imperfections. The subjects did a task on a computer where they had either to place nearer the photos of people with dermatological facial problems (capillary angiodisplasya, pitted acne scars, acne) or to distance them, fixing the time of the response delay. The study has shown no difference between behavioral tendency of nearing and distancing towards people with dermatological facial problems and without them. The subjects showed readiness to start personal relationships and positively assessed the social status of this kind of people. The study has revealed no correlation between the indices of the implicit task of nearing/distancing and those of direct questionnaire methods. The subjects need more time to show behavioral tendency of both nearing and distancing towards people with skin imperfections.

Review on Study of Cosmeceuticals

Now a day, cosmetic industry is 'Cosmeceuticals', which is the fastest growing segment of the natural personal care industry. Cosmeceuticals are serving as a bridge between personal cosmetics and pharmaceuticals that are intended for the enhancement of both the health and beauty of skin. Cosmeceuticals are the future generation of skin care product and a number of topical Cosmeceuticals treatments for conditions such as photo aging, hyper pigmentation, and wrinkles. They are the advances made within the world of dermatological products and the new backbone in skin care. All cosmeceuticals claim to contain functional ingredients with either therapeutic, disease-fighting or healing properties. Skin care cosmeceuticals such as face wash, moisturizers, mask, sunscreen, exfoliates etc. are meant for modify, beatify and treat skin imperfections. Cosmeceuticals improve appearance by delivering nutrients necessary for healthy skin .This review paper is to give recent knowledge about the trend of cosmetic industry- Cosmeceuticals.

Experience of using phototherapy (IPL) for prevention and treatment of some dermatoaesthetic problems

Laser therapy is a complex of hardware procedures that involve exposure of the skin to light energy and allows getting rid of a number of skin imperfections. Objective — to study the possibilities, effectiveness and expediency of using laser technologies to solve some dermatoesthetic problems in patients. Materials and methods. The results of the therapy using the Nordlys device, the principle of operation of which is based on the theory of selective photothermolysis, were analyzed and presented. The Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) was used to determine the effectiveness of the treatment. Results and discussion. We observed 118 patients aged 18 to 65 years (42 men and 76 women) with different dermatoesthe­tic problems. The Nordlys narrow-spectrum IPL technologies were used to treat couperose, rosacea, acne and hyperpigmentation. As a result of the comprehensive treatment using laser therapy, the DLQI indicators statistically significantly improved in patients of all groups: in patients with couperose and rosacea — by 48.75 and 72.71 %, respectively, acne and post-acne — by 77.87 and 72.07 %, respectively, superficial and deep pigmentation — by 40.49 and 50.98 %, respectively (p < 0.001). Before treatment, only 30.51 % patients experienced a moderate impact of skin disease on the life quality, while 69.49 % patients noted a significant impact. However, after the combination treatment using laser therapy, only 11.86 % patients felt a significant impact of their skin disease on their life quality, while all the other 88.14 % patients noted a significant improvement in the life quality. Conclusions. Laser therapy in the comprehensive treatment of patients with dermatological and aesthetic problems makes it possible to reduce the clinical manifestations of dermatoses, eliminate some factors of their development, and contributes to a probable (p < 0.05) improvement in quality of life.

Noise-Canceling Technologies for Smartphone Cameras: Self-Image in the Age of Anxiety

Abstract Noise-canceling technologies for smartphone cameras allow individuals to control and customize their self-images. These technologies that are used to automatically eliminate unwanted visual noise, such as excessive grain or lighting issues, skin imperfections, and teeth stains, are now widely used on smartphones to transform a noisy photograph into a “clean” and “ideal” image. In this paper, the author conducts a critical analysis of (1) the increasing popularity of these technologies through their application in smartphone cameras; (2) their active involvement in the construction of users’ ideal self-images; and (3) their contribution to increased instances of visual phobias, obsessions, anxieties, and irritation.

Satisfaction outcomes for patients and physicians following use of a new hyaluronic acid fillers.

The aesthetic appearance of the skin, with the emergence of wrinkles, blemishes, and infraorbital hollowing, can be a cause of social distress and is a process exacerbated by aging. The presence of skin imperfections and aging is partly due to a loss of hyaluronic acid (HA), which normally contributes to a maintain a healthy and voluminous skin. Attempts to restore volume and revert the signs of aging have therefore focused on the use of dermatologic fillers based on HA. Here, we tested the safety and efficacy of MelHA®-Monophasic Elastic Hyaluronic Acid (Concilium FEEL® filler products) containing HA at different concentrations and injected at different sites according to recommendations. Five different physicians assessed 42 patients across five different medical facilities in Italy, where they performed the treatment and assessed the patients after a follow-up visit. Safety and efficacy of the treatment and change in quality of life after treatment were evaluated with two surveys, one directed to medical personnel, and one directed to patients. Our results show that, across all products and personalized treatments, patients', physicians' and "independent photography reviewer" satisfaction was very high and that the treatment show a favorable safety profile. These results are promising and suggest the use of Concilium Feel® filler products can contribute to an increased self-esteem and quality of life in aging patients.

Trichotillomania in an Autistic Spectum Disroder: Single Case Intervention

The following work addresses trichotillomania and dermatillomania, both symptoms of the impulses control, in a 11 years old girl, who courses the sixth grade in a private elementary school and with a diagnose of first degree autism spectrum disorder and Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder (ADHD) as a comorbidity. The objective was to reduce the frequency of tearing her hair and the skin imperfections in the school context throughout an intervention based on cognitive behavioral techniques. Within the used methodology to analyze the case an exhaustive evaluation of the patient has been performed using grade observation records, before and during the intervention period in order to systematize the whole process. The intervention techniques used where Token Economy and self-instruction. The results show a progressive improvement of the symptoms, reflected in the diminish of frequency of the behaviors registered that were conducted. In spite of the limited time for the intervention for these kinds of behaviors and the base line phase, it was possible to get to know the girl well and establish bonds with her, in spite of her condition, which can be noted in a better adaptation on her school context. This work seeks to favor the increase of research on this disorder since there is information related on the etiological factors, but it still is not enough, likewise, the related information on these disorders and its possible comorbidities is useful to continue with the advance on the treatments in this area.

Metabolite Profile of Athrixia phylicoides DC. (Bush Tea) and Determination of Inhibitory Mechanism against Tyrosinase Enzyme from Mushroom

Athrixia phylicoides DC. (Bush tea) is a shrub harvested in the north-eastern mountain regions of South Africa and belongs to the Asteraceae family. Generally, A. phylicoides is consumed as a hot tea beverage for its associated health benefits. The use of bush tea extracts for beauty enhancement has not been investigated even though several ethnobotanical reports have indicated its usage against skin imperfections. Therefore, the aim of the study was to assess plant metabolites of A. phylicoides for their inhibition of tyrosinase from mushroom and determine their inhibitory mechanism. Methanolic extracts (80% v/v) of A. phylicoides were evaluated using a tyrosinase-based TLC (thin-layer chromatography) autography technique. The inhibitory mechanism of active metabolites against the enzyme was determined using Lineweaver–Burk plots. Quercetin and an unknown metabolite with a retention factor (Rf) value of 0.73 inhibited melanogenesis. However, the IC50 value for Quercetin was reported as 51.07 ± 2.43 µg/mL higher than that of kojic acid of 5.22 ± 1.44 µg/mL. Chlorogenic acid was reported to have a similar Rf value as kojic acid, suggesting similarities in polarity and affinity towards the adsorbent material. However, chlorogenic acid with an IC50 value of 15.25 ± 1.18 µg/mL and an inhibitory strength of 2.92 could not inhibit melanogenesis with a similar intensity as kojic acid. The inhibitory mechanism for A. phylicoides extract was reported to be mixed inhibition (competitive/uncompetitive). The IC50 value for A. phylicoides was recorded as 20.65 ± 0.14 µg/mL with an inhibitory strength of 3.96. These results suggest that A. phylicoides extracts could be used against dark spots associated with scarring and ageing through modulation of tyrosinase activity.

246 Inhibition of Cutibacterium acnes virulence to reduce oily skin imperfections

Whereas the transitory, i.e virulent Cutibacterium acnes (CA) predominates over the resident commensal form in acne prone skin, in oily skin, the expression of both bacteria types is not disturbed and using antibacterial agents is not the right solution. Therefore, it’s more appropriate to limit bacterial virulence through measures such as targeting the lipase activity that catalyzes the release of irritant FFAs from sebum triglycerides, such as oleic acid, which trigger IL1a release, thereby disrupting keratinocyte differentiation and promoting comedo formation.

A Cosmeceutical Topical Water-in-Oil Nanoemulsion of Natural Bioactives: Design of Experiment, in vitro Characterization, and in vivo Skin Performance Against UVB Irradiation-Induced Skin Damages.

IntroductionDamage to human skin occurs either chronologically or through repetitive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, where collagen photodegradation leads to the formation of wrinkles and skin imperfections. Consequently, cosmeceutical products containing natural bioactives to restore or regenerate collagen have gained a remarkable attention as an ameliorative remedy.MethodsThis study aimed to develop and optimize collagen-loaded water-in-oil nanoemulsion (W/O NE) through a D-optimal mixture design to achieve an ideal multifunctional nanosystem containing active constituents. Vit E was included as a constituent of the formulation for its antioxidant properties to minimize the destructive impact of UV radiation. The formulated systems were characterized in terms of their globule size, optical clarity, and viscosity. An optimized system was selected and evaluated for its physical stability, in vitro wound healing properties, and in vivo permeation and protection against UV radiation. In addition, the effect of collagen-loaded NE was compared to Vit C-loaded NE and collagen-/Vit C-loaded NEs mixture as Vit C is known to enhance collagen production within the skin.ResultsThe optimized NE was formulated with 25% oils (Vit E: safflower oil, 1:3), 54.635% surfactant/cosurfactant (Span 80: Kolliphor EL: Arlasolve, 1:1:1), and 20.365% water. The optimized NE loaded with either collagen or Vit C exhibited a skin-friendly appearance with boosted permeability, and improved cell viability and wound healing properties on fibroblast cell lines. Moreover, the in vivo study and histopathological investigations confirmed the efficacy of the developed system to protect the skin against UV damage. The results revealed that the effect of collagen-/Vit C-loaded NEs mixture was more pronounced, as both drugs reduced the skin damage to an extent that it was free from any detectable alterations.ConclusionNE formulated using Vit E and containing collagen and/or Vit C could be a promising ameliorative remedy for skin protection against UVB irradiation.

The role of the adjuvant aesthetic therapy in the lives of patients with psoriatic disease.

Psoriasis is a chronic inflammatory disease of the skin, which greatly impairs the patients' self-esteem and consequently leads to a deterioration in their quality of life. Numerous therapeutic options available, when combined, enable to maintain a satisfactory control of the psoriatic lesions. Aesthetic dermatology also provides physicians with tools for targeting the disease symptoms, such as mesotherapy, sonophoresis and chemical peels. The main aim of the study was to quantify the effect of psoriasis on patients' lives, particularly their self-esteem and everyday life. Moreover, a follow-up survey was used to assess the patients' knowledge on professional and at-home care treatments. The sample consisted of 45 inpatients admitted to the Dermatology Clinic of the Heliodor Święcicki Clinical Hospital of the Poznan University of Medical Sciences due to a psoriasis flare-up. Data were collected through the DLQI questionnaire, survey, personal interview and physical examination. A vast majority of the respondents reported a strong negative impact of the disease on their self-esteem and this impact was stronger among women. Furthermore, almost all of the patients denied ever receiving aesthetic treatments. In accordance with previous research, this study also shows that skin imperfections drastically influence the perception of a patient in the society, therefore acknowledging and combining appropriate therapeutic methods should be a matter of vital importance.

A Single-Center Study Evaluating the Effects of a Novel Retinol and Cannabidiol Combination Topical on Facial Skin.

BackgroundWhile retinol is known to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, it is associated with irritating effects. However, when combined with water soluble cannabidiol (CBD; CR Topical), CBD may act to reduce oxidative stress and inflammation, mitigating irritation from retinol and further improving the skin’s appearance through independent anti-aging mechanisms. ObjectivesTo assess the efficacy and tolerability of CR-Topical for improving facial skin.MethodsIn this prospective, single-center pilot study, 9 female patients and one male patient aged 20 to 53 years who presented with facial skin imperfections (visible pores, dehydration, roughness, and/or static/dynamic wrinkles) applied CR-Topical to the entire face once daily for 42 days. Outcomes were measured on days 1, 21, and 42 using the Global Ranking Scale (GRS) with Comprehensive Skin Analysis by the patient and senior investigator as well as by a blinded reviewer (board-certified plastic surgeon). Dynamic videos and static imagery were taken before and after treatment, and patient satisfaction surveys were completed.ResultsGlobal improvement across all 13 domains was observed, with the greatest mean differences for visible pores (2.0; 95% CI, 1.5-2.5), dehydration (2.0; 95% CI, 1.4-2.6), surface roughness (1.8; 95% CI, 1.2-2.4), static wrinkles (1.8; 95% CI, 1.1-2.5), and dynamic wrinkles (1.6; 95% CI, 0.8-2.3). Patient satisfaction (100%) and willingness to recommend the product to others (90%) were high, and tolerability of CR-Topical was excellent.ConclusionsCR-Topical is effective at improving global skin quality, including static and dynamic wrinkles. This study also used 4-dimensional analysis in the evaluation, a novel and developing method.Level of Evidence: 4

Сохранность важнейших структурных компонентов пуповины человека после децеллюляризации как этапа изготовления высокорегенеративного раневого покрытия

Abstract-To create the basis for the wound covering, we have developed a tissue-engineered cell-free structure from a highly regenerative homologous biomaterial of the human umbilical cord. The construct retains dermal-like structural components and therefore can stimulate the repair of skin imperfections. The composition and structure of the tissue-engineered scaffold from the human umbilical cord was evaluated by microscopic analysis; porosity was revealed, which promotes cell recruitment. Collagens and glycosaminoglycans form the basis of the tissue-engineered umbilical cord scaffold, which provides the physiological and adhesive properties of the final product. Thin long collagen fibers constitute a dense network, similar to the dermal extracellular matrix. The retention of type IV collagen and laminin is important for basement membrane formation and cell attachment. Key words: bioscaffold, matrix, scaffold, decellularization, tissue engineering, wound covering

ACNE PREVALENCE, AWARENESS AND PERCEPTION AMONG YOUNG POPULATION

Background. Acne is a very common dermatological condition, very few studies have been done regarding the knowledge, beliefs, and perceptions about the various treatment modalities and causative factors (nutrition, medication, cosmetics, pollutants, psychological and lifestyle factors and etc.) of acne.
 Methods. A quantitative written survey was performed. Survey sample – 451 young people 18-34 years old. Data analysis was performed using SPSS 26.0, calculated percentage frequencies, mean and standard deviation (SD), Pearson’s Chi Square test was used to detect statistically significant differences and correlation analysis was performed using the Spearman correlation.
 Results. The study shows that acne affects 49.9% of the surveyed young people. The prevalence of acne depends on the type of skin, tendency to have skin imperfections and genetic factors. Awareness and perception of skin care, factors affecting the occurrence of acne, and treatments used do not depend on the age of respondents.
 Conclusions. Young people lack professional knowledge of acne, skin care, and acne-provoking factors. They should take care of themselves, choose the right information from reliable sources and seek the help of specialists. Identifying the negative exogenous and endogenous factors and thus reducing their impact are mandatory for an adequate acne management.

Perceived age and perceived health among a Chinese cohort: Does it mean the same thing?

Previous investigations have aimed at investigating parameters affecting age perception on several ethnicities. Perceived health has been a newer focus on Caucasian skin, yet little is known on the skin features used to estimate the health status of Chinese women and we aimed to investigate whether these cues are the same as those used for age perception. Age and health appearance of 276 Chinese female volunteers were estimated from their photographs by 1025 female naïve Chinese graders 20-69years old. Models were built to predict perceived age and health from topographic, colour and biophysical measured variables, in two subsets of the studied volunteers: below and above 50years. Machine learning-based predictive models for age and health perception were built on the collected data, and the interpretability of the models was established by measuring feature importance. Age perception was mostly driven by topographic features, particularly eye bags and eyelid sagging in the group below 50years old. Wrinkles, notably from the lower part of the face and oval of the lower face, were found to be more relevant in the group above 50years. Health appearance was primarily signalled by skin imperfections and global pigmentation in the subset below 50years, whereas colour-related parameters and skin hydration acted as health cues for the subset above 50years. Distinct skin features were acting as cues for age perception and/or health perception and varied per age subset. Their contribution should be borne in mind when designing products for 'younger looking skin' and 'healthier looking skin'.

353 A polylysine dendrigraft able to balance acneic and non acneic strains of Cutibacterium acnes to prevent acne and skin imperfections

Acne is one of the most common skin diseases worldwide, affecting up to 85% of the population. At the pathophysiological level, two factors play a crucial role: the sebaceous gland and Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes). New genomic analysis tools have shown that C. acnes, former P. acnes, a major member of the normal skin microbiota was subdivided into heterogeneous species including acneic bacteria such as RT4, RT5 strains, and commensal bacteria such as the RT6 strain. Moreover, recent data indicated also that the loss of diversity of C. acnes species is associated with acne severity. Taking all this information, we have developed a green polylysine dendrigaft, the Dendrimer (G2), able to rebalance acneic and non acneic stains of C. acnes to protect skin from inflammation, imperfections and acne. In vitro studies revealed the capacity of the G2 to increase membrane fluidity of acneic strains RT4 and RT5 and decrease their biomass in contrast to the RT6 strain. Moreover, G2 showed also a strong anti-adhesion power of C. acnes on human keratinocytes. Ex vivo studies indicated also an anti-inflammatory effect by decreasing IL1α and TLR2 expressions. These data were confirmed in vivo: the study was conducted during 28 days on hemi-face, with a twice daily application of G2 (2 ppm) or Placebo cream on 23 volunteers. After 28 days, we observed a significant decrease of the sebo-regulating effect by 11%, retentional and inflammatory lesions by 31% and 63%, respectively. Interestingly, G2 application promoted also the diversity of C. acnes by increasing the expression of its no acneic strains compared to its acneic strains. To conclude, we have demonstrated that G2 could be the new skin care ingredient able to balance acneic and non acneic strains of C. acnes to improve skin microbiota and protect skin from inflammation, imperfections and acne.