Sewing Process Research Articles

Prediction Model Research of Overfeed Sewing Shrinkage Based on BP Neural Network

The study shows overfeed sewing shrinkage was not linear relationship with physical property and garment sewing process parameter. It chose simulation arm of light wool fabrics to do overfeed sewing experiment, and selected seven characteristic values such as connection length of long fabric, connection length ratio flexural-tensile modulus ratio, relaxation shrinkage and wet expansion rate of long and short fabric, and applied artificial neural network to forecast overfeed sewing shrinkage of light wool fabrics. Compared with actual result, the error of predicted result was lesser. The foundation of prediction model is significant for woolen mill to develop a set of interactive software and extend application.

Optimization of the link drive mechanism in a sewing machine using imperialist competitive algorithm

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to present, an optimization problem based on the imperialistic competitive algorithm (ICA) approach for optimizing the needle velocity and variation of needle acceleration in a link drive mechanism of a sewing machine. The optimal geometry of the link drive has been achieved using a non-linear optimization procedure. Design/methodology/approach – As an important study in this case, the authors might refer to a previous work in which they introduced the possibility of replacing the slider-crank mechanism, that is typically used in sewing machines, with a link drive mechanism. The authors regenerate the optimization problem by modifying the objective function and follow a novel optimization method based on the ICA to overcome the drawbacks of that work. In addition, further modification of the objective function with respect to the variation of needle acceleration is applied to assure smooth movement of the needle during sewing process. Findings – The results showed a significant improvement with respect to the optimization of needle velocity and variation of needle acceleration in comparison to that previous work. This clearly justifies the efficiency and reliability of the optimization formulation based on the ICA approach. Originality/value – Needle temperature is considered as an effective parameter on sewing process efficiency and stitch quality. Needle heat generated during sewing process is directly related to needle velocity in penetration zone which in turn depends on the needle driver mechanism of sewing machine. According to literature survey, few researches have focussed to design a driver mechanism of the sewing machine to reduce the generated needle heat. This mechanism has the ability of reducing the penetration velocity of the needle without affecting sewing speed which consequently can reduce the needle heat generated during needle penetration. The work here is novel regarding implementation of optimization algorithm for this mechanism.

남성복 브랜드 재킷 안감 제작에 관한 실태 조사

Abstract This study seeks to offer practical suggestions for manufacturing jacket lining patterns through research on menswear brands. A researcher conducted interviews with a survey instrument targeting 12 menswear brands. To analyze the data, descriptive statistics were obtained using SPSS 18.0. The main findings were as follows. First, regarding lining production, most menswear brands were found to provide jacket lining patterns to their subcontractors, and pattern makers were found to design lining patterns based on their own know-how. The most important factor in the production of jacket lining patterns is whether linings are cut more than once during the sewing process. For suit jackets, linings are cut more than once, and for casual jackets, linings are cut once. Second, with regard to jacket production for different jacket styles, most menswear brands were found to use patterns that include seam allowance. Partial linings showed differences in terms of the methods used to sew edges and attach linings to the outer shell. Third, extra space in jacket lining patterns varied according to style. Jacket lining patterns for suit jackets and casual jackets showed differences in extra space in the following areas: the parts that cover the chest(suit jacket linings: 5.6cm, casual jacket linings: 2.4cm), the parts that cover the waist(suit jacket linings: 3.8cm, casual jacket linings: 1.3cm), hem(suit jacket linings: 2.7cm, casual jacket linings: 1.3cm), and bicep(suit jacket linings: 2.7cm, casual jacket linings: 1.1cm). However, extra space in the sleeve hems was identical for the two styles(suit jacket linings: 0.1cm, casual jacket linings: 0.1cm). Therefore, this research suggests that clothing manufacturers design linings in accordance with the jacket lining production style.Keywords: men’s wear(남성복), suit jacket(수트 재킷), casual jacket(캐주얼 재킷), lining pattern(안감 패턴)

Lean Manufacturing Implementation in the Sewing Industry

The principle of lean manufacturing has been successfully implemented in a number of industries, including electronics and automotive. This is not the case for other industries, such as the sewing industry, and this research focuses on implementation of lean manufacturing techniques in the sewing industry. One specific sewing line in a sewing plant was selected as a case study, and sewing process characteristics are identified. Five types of waste are identified and analyzed in the sewing line with the aid of value stream mapping: defects, inventory, overproduction, transportation, and waiting time. Applied lean manufacturing techniques include line balancing, layout redesign, and quality at the source. Impacts of implemented lean techniques on production are analyzed, and an improved future-state value stream map is developed. Results show approximately 96% reduction in production wastes in addition to 43% reduction in lead time.

Determining ideal fabric cutting times for apparel manufacturing by using mixed integer programming and a heuristic method

In apparel manufacturing, cut pieces produced by the cutting process are a key input work-in-process (WIP) to the bottleneck sewing process. However, an excessive inventory of cut pieces not only requires extra storage space but also creates difficulties with shop floor control. This study determines the ideal cutting times of fabric lays by minimising the cut piece inventory under the constraint that sufficient cut pieces are produced in time to satisfy the bottleneck usage. This study proposes a mixed integer programming (MIP) model and a heuristic method to solve the problem. The solutions for most test instances of the problem that are calculated by the heuristic method are not as good as those by the MIP solver; however, the heuristic method computation times are negligible. The experiments show that the MIP model’s efficiency significantly improves by starting from an initial solution provided by the proposed heuristic method.

Dynamics of lockstitch sewing process

During high speed sewing, the needle thread is exposed to dynamic loading, short strike loading, inertia forces, friction, rubbing, force of check spring, bending, pressure, friction, impact, shock and thermal influence. The dynamic thread loading/tension alters throughout the stitch formation cycle and along its passage through the machine. The greatest tensile force occurs at the moment of stitch stretching, when the take up lever pulls for required thread length through the tension regulator. These stresses act on the thread repeatedly and the thread passes 50-80 times through the fabric, the needle eye and the bobbin case mechanism, before getting incorporated into the seam, which result in upto 40% loss in tensile strength of the sewing thread. This damage in the sewing thread adversely affects its processing and functional performance. In this paper, the contribution of dynamic loading, passage through needle and fabric, and bobbin thread interaction in the loss in tensile properties has been studied. It is observed that the loss in tensile properties occurs mainly due to the bobbin thread interaction. Dynamic loading due to the action of take up lever also causes substantial loss in tenacity and breaking elongation of cotton threads.

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Dynamics of lockstitch sewing process

Dynamics of lockstitch sewing process

Modeling of needle penetration force in denim fabric

Purpose – This paper aims to predict the needle penetration force (NPF) in denim fabrics using the artificial neural network (ANN) and multiple linear regression (MLR) models based on the effects of various sewing parameters. Design/methodology/approach – In order to design the ANN and MLR models, four parameters including fabric weight, number of fabric layers, weave pattern, and sewing needle size are taken into account as the input parameters and NPF as the output parameter. According to these parameters, 140 samples of data were resulted. Each sample was tested five times. From these 140 data (input-output data pairs), 112 were used for training the ANN and MLR models and 28 samples were used to test the performance of ANN and MLR. Also, the NPF was measured on the Instron tensile tester to simulate sewing process. Findings – The results indicated that the NPF in denim fabrics can be well predicted in terms of sewing parameters by using ANN and MLR models, in which the ANN model exhibits greater performance than MLR (RANN=0.989> RMLR=0.901). Research limitations/implications – The NPF measurement method is limited at low speed. Originality/value – Using the ANN model for forecasting NPF in denim fabrics can help the garment manufactures to produce high-quality denim products and improve the sewing process through reducing seam damage. The NPF could be also measured in the cycle loading conditions similar to sewing machine process by using a special designed tools mounted on the Instron tensile tester.

Intelligent hierarchical robot control for sewing fabrics

In this paper an intelligent hierarchical controller for the robotized sewing of two plies of fabrics is presented. The proposed system is based on the concept: fabric properties estimation - tensional force determination - sewing - adaptation. A new methodology for integrating the tensile test of fabrics into the robotic sewing station using the sewing machine is presented. The output of this test is the estimation of the fabrics extensibility, which is fed to the next level of decision making to determine the appropriate fabric tensional force that should be applied during the sewing process. Computational intelligence methods (fuzzy logic and neural networks) have been used throughout the hierarchical structure of the controller. The present research is focused on the concept of using qualitative properties of the fabrics and the processing of qualitative and quantitative knowledge in different levels of the introduced hierarchical system. The proposed system is flexible, adaptable and robust enough to sew a wide range of unknown double ply of fabrics as it is shown by the test results. It has also the capability of on-line and endless training in order to be able to respond, handle and sew new types of fabrics. Seams that are produced by the robot and a human operator for joining two pieces of fabrics are presented and compared.

Study on the Sewing Process of Automotive Seating Fabrics

Automotive seating fabrics are assembled into complete trims by sewing process, which plays an important role on the quality of automotive seat. This paper was written based on study of the influence of the distance between stitch and selvage, gauge distance, and the type of sewing thread on automotive woven seating fabric. Furthermore, the influences of each factor and the optimum parameters were obtained by the single-factor experiments and orthogonal experiment. The results showed that sewing strength and breaking elongation are increased with increasing the distance between stitch and selvage, and are decreased with the gauge distance. On the other hand, when the distance between stitch and selvage is 8cm, the gauge distance is 2cm, and the fineness of sewing thread is 168tex, its twist is 34.18, and the break strength 72.44N, sewing strength and elongation of this kind of seating fabric are the highest.

Garment Production Process Optimization Based on the Splicing of Knitting and Tatting Fabrics

Based on the splicing of knitting and tatting fabrics and the optimization of process realization route, the author tries to improve the drawbacks in traditional splicing of knitting and tatting fabrics in terms of process technology and thus extend their respective advantageous properties. Through the analysis of fabric properties difference, integration of structural characteristics of parts, optimization of sewing process and post-production process reengineering, the author proposes the prerequisites and principles related to the splicing of two fabrics, and discusses the common problems in the splicing of knitting and tatting fabrics and specific process optimization route.

Making memories on cloth, or Miss Liberty’s Pinafore: Acollaboration in textile narrative

We take a fictocritical approach, shifting between critical and creative discourses, to centre on the process of creating a memory piece, a collaboration in textile narrative between a creative writer and a textile artist. The basis of the memory dress is a green-and-white-checked empire line cotton pinafore. The writer, here called M, bought the garment at Sydney's Saturday Paddington Markets because of its colour, empire line and its label which was 'Frank', her father's name. The textile artist, here called D, works with recycled fabrics to create wearable artworks and textile sculptures on life-sized mannequins. In her sewing process, each figure she creates emerges with a personality. These personalities are recorded in short fictional histories, or 'backstories'. The memory piece, Miss Liberty's Pinafore, traces the collaborative process of making life fictions between M's fabric scraps, her childhood memories and writing, and D's creative costuming. Miss Liberty's Pinafore could not exist without an analysis of the metaphorical capacity of fabric and dress, the affects resonant between cloth, memory and identity, and the process of making art.

A Numerical Simulation Approach for Reliability Evaluation of CFRP Composite

Due to the superior mechanical properties of carbon fiber reinforced plastic (CFRP) materials, they are vastly used in industries such as aircraft manufacturers. The aircraft manufacturers are switching metal to composite structures while studying reliability (R-value) of CFRP. In this study, a numerical simulation method to determine the reliability of Multiaxial Warp Knitted (MWK) textiles used to make CFRP composites is proposed. This method analyzes the distribution of carbon fiber angle misalignments, from a chosen 0° direction, caused by the sewing process of the textile, and finds the R-value, a value between 0 and 1. The application of this method is demonstrated by an illustrative example.

Clarifying Cutting and Sewing Processes with Due Windows Using an Effective Ant Colony Optimization

The cutting and sewing process is a traditional flow shop scheduling problem in the real world. This two-stage flexible flow shop is often commonly associated with manufacturing in the fashion and textiles industry. Many investigations have demonstrated that the ant colony optimization (ACO) algorithm is effective and efficient for solving scheduling problems. This work applies a novel effective ant colony optimization (EACO) algorithm to solve two-stage flexible flow shop scheduling problems and thereby minimize earliness, tardiness, and makespan. Computational results reveal that for both small and large problems, EACO is more effective and robust than both the particle swarm optimization (PSO) algorithm and the ACO algorithm. Importantly, this work demonstrates that EACO can solve complex scheduling problems in an acceptable period of time.

Analisis Penyebab Nyeri dan Ketidaknyamanan dalam Bekerja pada Pengrajin Keset Kain Limbah–Pringapus Semarang

This research identified any kind of work condition and craftsman’s posture that trigger the pain and discomfort for craftsman of doormat in Pringapus, Semarang. Observation of the work condition is conducted including work facilities and their posture during sewing process. To identify their pain and discomfort, Nordic Musculoskeletal Questionnaire (NMQ) is used as reference. The result is used as an input for rapid upper limb assessment worksheet (RULA) to determine the level of the risk. RULA’s final score is indicated the conditions need further investigation and change may be needed. Based on the analysis using fishbone diagram, to overcome pain/discomfort in the area of the neck and the shoulder, high adjustment of table and seat is suggested, because the evidence shows they trigger the craftsmen’s bad posture. For pain/discomfort of back and waist, the seat should have good back support. Whereas for the hip, the craftsman suggested to use the seat with thick and wider sleeper, so they can sit comfortably. For foot problems, to relieve the pain for their free feet, it is suggested to use a bench that functions as foot rest; and for the sewing feet, it is suggested to give heels support so the sewers' heels can be free from strain while sewing.

The Influence of Stitch Density and of the Type of Sewing Thread on Seam Strength

Having in mind the complex problems of technological process of sewing, as well as general demands for seams produced in garment production, this research should contribute the development of sewed seams breaking forces. Thus, many measurements of seam breaking forces have been conducted. These measurements enable us to define optimal strength of seam strength that improves the compliance of sewed seams parameters. This paper deals with the influence of the thread type and stitch density on the seam strength. The breaking forces and elongations at break were determined by the standardized method (SRPS 2062) and fabric (tape method) according to SRPS EN ISO 13934-1. Fabric samples used for seam testing were sewed by seam (1.01.01) and stitch type 301 with stitch densities 3, 4 and 5 cm-1. Optimal seam strength (130.9 Ncm-1) on the fabric T71, and at the same time the highest strength, has been noticed at the samples with seam line in weft direction with stitch density 5 cm-1, sewed with polyester thread 20x2 tex count, while on fabric T71 that value is 115.9 Ncm-1. According to obtained results, it can be concluded that stitch density (3 cm-1 ÷ 5 cm-1) and the type of sewing thread (cotton and polyester, K1 ÷ K5) have great influence on defining seam sttrength, their inconsistency may lead to great differences in seam behavior.

The effect of drawing on PET filament sewing thread performance properties

A drawn PET filament sewing thread for the automotive industry was used for this research. This study concerned itself with the draw ratio’s influence regarding certain physical properties of the threads, the tensile properties during sewing and the mechanical properties after sewing in order to estimate the drawn thread’s sewing performance. An increase in the draw ratio caused a decrease in the linear density, and thread twist. In addition, the tenacity, elastic modulus and tension at the yield point were increased when drawing, whilst the breaking extension decreased. It was found that tensile fatigue and heat loading during the sewing process cause changes in the threads’ mechanical properties, depending on the draw ratio. The tenacity, elastic modulus and tension at the yield point had decreased after the sewing process, whilst the breaking extension decreased for those threads drawn at lower draw ratios, and increased for those drawn at higher draw ratios. The results show that those threads drawn at higher draw ratios displayed inappropriate sewing performance, resulting from inadequate elastic and surface characteristics.

The Design of Woven Semi-Molding Female Skirt Jacquard

Through designing the weave of skirt waist and body, using textile CAD digital design technology and electronic jacquard weaving technology, woven semi-molding female skirt fabric is researched and developed. Developed product not only makes the skirt waist and body have different styles, but also makes skirt be produced without complex cutting. Sewing process is simple, process flow is short, raw material is wasted less and appearance is good.

Design and Weave on Seamless Filter Bag with Three-Dimensional Angle-Interlock Tubular Structure

The advantages of the bag house are expounded in this paper. The some technical parameters of the filter bag are introduced. The weaving plan of three-dimensional angle-interlock tubular fabric is designed. The key points of weave production are explained. Use of angle-interlock tubular structure can weave seamless and thick the filter bag, and improve the filter efficiency of woven fabric. The development of seamless filter bag save sewing process, and improve the production efficiency, and save cost. The seamless filter bag with three-dimensional angle-interlock structure can be widely used to a lot of areas of flue gas filter. It will play a positive role to protect the environment.