Second-hand Clothing Research Articles

Mitigating Trendy Cheap Fast Fashion's Negative Impact

Three studies are carried out in an attempt to provide a picture of clothing consumption and knowledge of fast fashion among young consumers, and investigate possibilities for more sustainable choices through analyses of the second-hand clothing market. The first study collects data from different second-hand clothing markets, whether direct from owner or through a second seller. Savings are calculated by scraping original and sale prices on regular markets. Content analyses of second-hand markets show a wide variation in discounts depending upon the type of clothing and channel used to purchase. We find independent resellers offer significant savings on higher quality clothing, but reselling used fast-fashion is not an attractive option due to its initial low price point. The second and third studies assess the attitude, behavior, and knowledge of fast fashion among young consumers and the possibility of education to decrease fast fashion consumption. These studies document the desire for fashionable clothing and expose the limited budget among young consumers. Some respondents spend all their discretionary income on clothing, and many times, purchased items are never worn. There is some indication that educating young consumers about real environmental impacts might shift purchases from quantity to quality, but educating consumers about the harm of fast fashion may be a slow difficult task.

Modeling the intention and donation of second-hand clothing in the context of an emerging economy

The culture of fast fashion accelerates the consumption rate of individuals but at the expense of significant environmental stress. With a large amount of discarded clothing accumulating in landfills, it is crucial to encourage people to dispose of second-hand clothing (SHC) as sustainably as possible, especially in an emerging economy with large volume consumption. Through a survey of 619 respondents from China, this study explored the factors affecting people’s intentions and actual donation behaviors toward SHC. It extends the theory of interpersonal behavior (TIB) with environmental factors to construct a research framework, which included cognitive factors (attitude towards sustainable consumption), social factors (sense of community) and personal factors (perceived hedonic benefit) under TIB and the environment factors refers to problem awareness and ascription responsibility. Partial least squares structural equation modeling was employed to analyze the data. The findings revealed that attitudes toward sustainable consumption, problem awareness, ascription of responsibility, sense of community, and perceived hedonic benefit significantly and positively influenced people’s intentions and practices of SHC donation. This study will aid governments and relevant green environmental protection organizations in formulating more precise strategies for sustainable development, and promote relevant research on the sustainable disposal of SHC.

Consumer attitude and disposal behaviour to second-hand clothing in Ghana

The issue of second-hand clothing which is exported from Europe and America into the African market remains a critical problem that poses threats to the eco-system. These clothing are sometimes unusable and have a limited life span which is eventually disposed of into landfills and water bodies. Thus, producing smells and toxic chemicals that pollute the air and environment when burnt or left to decompose. These indiscriminate disposals have been a major concern to citizens, stakeholders, and Governments. With the recurring threats posed by this practice, new technological innovations have been proposed and developed by leading brands and new start-ups in the industry to limit such negative impacts. Several studies on second-hand clothing are from the Global South, with limited research conducted by researchers within developing countries to understand the influence of behaviours and attitudes of consumers on the purchase of this clothing. Hence, this paper presents the first attempt to understand consumer attitudes towards the purchase and disposal of second-hand clothing in the environment of Ghana. Furthermore, the initial sections of the paper highlight new technologies and approaches developed by global brands and start-ups in Africa to curb second-hand clothing waste. A structured online questionnaire was developed and used to collect empirical data from 135 consumers in the Ashanti and Greater Accra regions of Ghana, a context that few studies have focused on. The regression analysis revealed that both attitude and disposal behaviour have a significantly positive influence on the consumption intention of consumers. Lastly, attitude had a positive and no significant impact on the relationship between disposal behaviour and consumption intention. Findings contribute to appropriate policy and regulation formation, the need for education, and environmental perspectives on the effects of these clothing for the implementation of circular initiatives. Hence, the study recommends the provision of waste bins, the establishment of recycling plants, and the enforcement of strict regulations to limit the importation of second-hand clothing into the Ghanaian markets.

The Phenomenon of Thrifting As An Alternative Solution Related to Reducing Environmental Impact on Fast Fashion

This study examines the impact of the fashion industry, in particular the fast fashion industry and the phenomenon of thrifting, on the environment and on society. Fast fashion, which responds to consumer demand for quick and affordable fashion trends, is environmentally damaging due to mass production using polluting materials and consumer demand. Alternatively, the phenomenon of thrifting, the practice of buying second-hand clothes, has the potential to mitigate the negative impacts of fast fashion by providing sustainable and affordable options. The method used by the researchers in this study is the phenomenological method to identify individual perspectives on a phenomenon that has happened or is happening to thrifting actors. Interviews with four informants, including users and sellers of second-hand clothes, revealed that they understand the concept of thrifting and the negative impact of clothing waste on the environment.

Young female traders’ quest for viability in Zimbabwe's politicised urban spaces

ABSTRACT This article analyses the viability struggles of young female traders in Harare, Zimbabwe. It makes a conceptual contribution to debates about viability, which captures how young people connect and pursue aims across diverse life domains (referred to as ‘thinking and acting across’), by addressing gender and generational power dynamics. The article demonstrates how young female traders in Harare are thinking and acting across the domains of work and politics in a context of urban authoritarianism, by negotiating the challenging economic conditions and ruling party-aligned brokers that dominate the urban spaces in which they sell their wares. Based on over two years of qualitative research, which continued during the COVID-19 pandemic, the study shows how gendered expectations around young women's voice and presentation in public affairs shapes the agency of female second-hand clothes traders. The wider context of economic crisis, exacerbated during the COVID-19 pandemic, deepened the precarity of the traders, requiring young women to defy lockdown measures. However, their agency with respect to challenging (‘acting against’) law enforcement and political brokers remained constrained. We argue that gendered power dynamics intersect with notions of youth in the Zimbabwean context and infuse authoritarian politics, creating attempts at viability shaped by risk calculation.

Modeling the reuse intention and practices of secondhand clothing: evidence from a developing nation

This study explored the effect of perceived values on sustainability, problem awareness, the ascription of responsibility, sense of community, and anticipated guilt on reuse (sell and/or swap) intention of secondhand clothing through partial least squares structural equation modeling. This study adopted a cross-sectional design and collected quantitative data from 524 conveniently selected respondents in China through an online survey. The findings revealed that perceived values on sustainability, ascription of responsibility, sense of community, and anticipated guilt are the most important factors influencing reuse intention, whereas problem awareness is not a significant predictor. It has also been demonstrated that reuse intention promotes the development of reuse practices. Despite its large population, China is facing significant environmental challenges. The findings of this study may provide a viable option for the sustainable development of reusing secondhand clothing and also contribute to new knowledge on the factors that influence the reuse practices of secondhand clothing in China and even around the world.

Circularity, Garment Durability, and Just Transition: Understanding the Trinary Interrelationship through an Integrative Literature Review

Large quantities of second-hand clothing have been exported from the Global North to the Global South in recent decades, placing a heavy social and environmental burden on local communities. Consequently, countries in the Global South are leveraging indigenous craftsmanship through various practices, such as care, repair, and upcycling, to enable durability and extend product life, saving millions of garments from landfills. However, this knowledge is not included in global narratives on durability and the circular economy. Moreover, the Global North dominates the conversation, often leaving out the social dimension and risking a circular transition from achieving important goals such as decent jobs to reducing the unequal distribution of negative environmental and social impacts. This study examines the trinary interrelationship between circularity, garment durability, and just transition through an integrative literature review. The review revealed several key findings. Firstly, the authors posit that garment durability is an ongoing interaction between the garment and its changing environment(s) and user(s), enabling it to move through different life cycles via the practices of care, mending, and repair. Secondly, all three concepts must place people at the heart of the fashion industry to ensure a just and circular transition.

The Evocative wardrobe : establishing emotional durability to accelerate circular economy in fashion

Global fashion waste, sustainability, and the circular economy are concepts that are increasingly gaining popularity not only in the world but also in Sri Lanka. The Fashion Revolution, organizations such as the Ellen MacArthur Foundation and brands such as Patagonia spearhead this movement in which the idea of circular economy is promoted, and action is taken to reduce the impact on global fashion waste and issues such as overconsumption and overproduction of clothes. Sri Lanka’s capital city Colombo itself, contains landfills filled with unwanted clothes and materials. Furthermore, garment manufacturing is Sri Lanka’s single biggest industry, but it also produces tens of thousands of textile waste every year. However, it can be seen that there is an increase in online Thrift Stores selling secondhand clothing, fashion brands that upcycle clothes, movements such as the Goodlife Foundation, and companies such as the Hirdaramani Group carrying out projects related to fashion waste. It can also be seen that The Colombo Fashion Week (CFW) in association with the Responsible Fashion Movement (RFM), has come out with a specific action-oriented impact on each garment presented on the ramp, under a program titled Responsibility In Fashion.

Tiffany: Ukay-Ukay Online Shop

Tiffany: Ukay-Ukay Online Shop is an emerging e-commerce platform that specializes in the sale of secondhand clothing and accessories, inspired by the long-standing tradition of ukay-ukay in the Philippines. This study presents a comprehensive analysis of Tiffany and its position within the broader ukay-ukay market. The research delves into the challenges and opportunities faced by this online platform and investigates the factors influencing customer behavior and preferences when shopping for secondhand clothing online. Drawing on both primary and secondary data, the study evaluates Tiffany's current state and performance, examining its product offerings, pricing strategies, and online presence. Through surveys and interviews with online ukay-ukay shoppers, customer preferences and shopping habits are explored, revealing insights into the drivers behind purchasing decisions in the digital thrift store setting. This study contributes valuable insights into the digital transformation of the ukay-ukay industry and the opportunities it presents for promoting sustainable fashion practices and reducing textile waste. Furthermore, the research sheds light on the potential growth and future prospects of the online ukay-ukay market in the Philippines

An Investigation on 'Second-Hand Clothing Applications' in the Context of the Diderot Effect

Consumption in post-modern society, with the effect of Diderot, leads individuals to excessive consumption without need, especially with the developments in technology. It brings societies to a point where they buy things they do not need. It is thought that online shopping sites influence individuals, according to Diderot, and lead them to buy more with the thought of the inadequacy of the existing one. In this study, 10 people selected by random sampling method from Dolap and Depop users, which are second-hand clothing applications selected by purposeful sampling methods, were compared in the context of the Diderot effect and analyzed descriptively. In line with the findings obtained after the examination, it has been observed that although these applications are second-hand clothing platforms, they are in parallel with the Diderot effect, which explains the consumption frenzy of our age and the fact that we buy what we do not need. In addition, it has been determined that the individuals in the application are directed to consume not one but more than one product, although they do not need it and they are second-hand, with the thought that they should provide harmony and integrity with each other.

Connecting People with Science: A Proof-of-Concept Study to Evaluate Action-Based Storytelling for Science Communication

Many of the major environmental problems facing society remain intractable because members of the public neither perceive the relevance to them nor how their individual actions might help the situation. Post-consumer textile waste is one such disregarded problem, whereby disposal of waste from the fashion industry, especially the discarding of functional but out-of-fashion garments, releases significant greenhouse gases that contribute to climate change. Here, we used action-based storytelling as proof-of-concept of an innovative way to promote agency for climate action by showcasing pro-environmental behaviour through social modelling within stories. We evaluated the effectiveness of action-based storytelling in evoking agency, self-efficacy, and intention to increase second-hand clothing consumption. This research sought to identify if the choices faced by the story’s hero impacted these variables. The research is innovative in its use of a mixed-methods research methodology and community-based social marketing approach. Two focus groups identified consumer barriers to, and motivations for, second-hand clothing consumption in order to inform the development of three action-based storytelling videos (each with a different hero character: (i) a scientist, (ii) an influencer and (iii) students). A quasi-experimental survey evaluated how action-based storytelling and the different story heroes impacted participants’ levels of agency, self-efficacy, and intention. Results showed that participants’ levels of agency, self-efficacy, and intention significantly increased after watching the videos. Furthermore, the influencer hero was found to have the greatest effect on these variables. This research concludes that action-based storytelling can be an effective communication approach which demonstrates promising results in evoking agency and self-efficacy and increasing the likelihood that consumers will adopt pro-environmental behaviours.

Factors that Influence Generation Z's Purchase Intention Towards Imported Secondhand Clothes In Indonesia

The development of fashion trends continues to move from time to time. In Indonesia itself, the fashion trend that is currently emerging is thrifting or buying and selling of imported secondhand clothes. Based on data from the Badan Pusat Statistik (BPS), the import value of secondhand clothing has increased significantly by 607.6% (year on year) for the January-September 2022 period. This raises a problem which is, so far, the import of secondhand clothing has cut the MSME market share in the fashion industry by 15-20%. This could happen because society, especially Generation Z, prefers to buy imported used clothes rather than buying local brand clothes, which is supported by the results of preliminary research. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to find out what factors that influence Generation Z's purchase intention towards imported secondhand clothing. Based on previous studies and the results of preliminary research, the authors used 8 factors that have an influence relationship with purchase intention, which are, frugality, eco-consciousness, need for status, need for uniqueness, fashion involvement, reference group, perceived quality, and bargain hunting. The research method used an online questionnaire survey and analyzed using descriptive text and PLS SEM with SmartPLS. A total of 356 respondents filled in the questionnaire, which is Generation Z, living in Indonesia with the requirement that they have at least bought imported used clothes at least twice in the past 3 years. The results of this study found that the need for uniqueness, fashion involvement, reference group, and perceived quality, and bargain hunting significantly influence the intention to buy imported used clothing. On the other hand, eco-consciousness and need for status indirectly affect the intention to buy imported used clothing through a mediating variable, which is bargain hunting. Frugality has a significant direct effect on the intention to buy imported used clothing and has a significant indirect effect through bargain hunting. The results of these findings provide insight to local fashion brands regarding what factors influence Generation Z's purchase intention towards imported secondhand clothes.

Defining Drivers and Barriers of Sustainable Fashion Manufacturing: Perceptions in the Global South

The practices of reuse and repurposing as sustainability measures are on the rise, particularly in the Global North, emphasizing environmental sustainability. In the Global South, however, the approach to circularity is more inclined towards livelihoods, employment, and education. In the North, remanufacturing and upcycling have been instrumental in promoting sustainable design and manufacturing. Research on circular fashion in Africa, however, tends to be limited to the second-hand clothing market, with a lack of focus on remanufacturing and upcycling as part of circular fashion practice. Thus, this study aimed to explore perspectives on the challenges and enablers of sustainable fashion manufacturing, specifically focusing on remanufacturing and upcycling, within four Cape Town-based fashion businesses. This study also aimed to build upon a previously established conceptual framework, identifying the key barriers and drivers using a tool from the Theory of Constraints. The findings suggested that funding is the primary driving force behind sustainable manufacturing practices, whereas a lack of education on remanufacturing and upcycling was identified as the main barrier.

Resale as sustainable social innovation: understanding shifts in consumer decision-making and shopping orientations for high-end secondhand clothing

Purpose The purpose of this study is to draw from sustainable social innovation theory and the Consumer styles inventory (CSI) instrument to examine secondhand clothing consumption habits for Russia. The secondhand market is the logical outcome of efforts to adopt resale as a facet of sustainable social innovation, with which to drive sustainable decision-making and socially responsible marketing in the secondhand high-end clothing market. Resale represents the cornerstone of business model innovation (BMi) for the retail sector, offering substantial opportunities for retailers who understand changes in consumption behaviour. More cost-effective and arguably greener, the sale of secondhand clothing is expected to be double the volume of fast fashion by 2030 but it remains an understudied field of research in the literature relating to the fashion industry. Design/methodology/approach Hypotheses are developed from the existing literature. Survey methodology is used to collect data from 250 Russian consumers in the city of Petersburg. The objective is to test the veracity of CSI shopper orientations, focusing on nascent motivations for high-end branded secondhand clothing, to examine sustainable social innovation and resale in an emerging market. Findings Four new shopping orientations are identified. Based on the empirical data, the authors suggest that five (out of the original eight CSI shopping orientations) are of internal statistical relevance, and that our new orientations are relevant for not only this market, but for neighbouring Eastern European countries too. The findings reflect postmodern evolution in behavioural motivations for Russian consumers, that can inform retail strategy in terms of BMi consumer for harnessing opportunities offered by sustainable social innovation and resale. Originality/value Whilst the CSI has been widely used, research for Eastern Europe is limited. Understanding the shopping orientations for sustainable alternatives to newly produced clothing has theoretical and practical implications for improving circularity, post-war entry strategies and countries facing economic downturn. This study contributes novel insights by examining consumer decision-making and shopping orientations in an emerging market.

Perceived risk and second-hand clothing consumption: a moderated-moderation model

PurposeThis study aims to investigate the three-way interaction effect of sanitary risk, aesthetic risk and psychological risk on consumers' purchase intention for second-hand clothing (SHC) based on perceived risk theory.Design/methodology/approachA survey method is used to collect data from consumers, and the final valid sample comprises 290 respondents. Partial least squares structural equation modelling (PLS-SEM) and PROCESS macro are used to analyse the data.FindingsThe results reveal that aesthetic risk moderates the negative influence of sanitary risk on purchase intention, such that the negative influence is stronger when aesthetic risk is high. In addition, the three-way interaction effect of sanitary risk, aesthetic risk and psychological risk on consumers' purchase intention for SHC is found to be significant. That is, the negative influence of sanitary risk on purchase intention is strongest when both aesthetic risk and psychological risk are high.Originality/valuePrevious studies have only examined the direct effect of perceived risk on consumers' purchase intention for SHC. This study contributes to perceived risk theory by examining the joint moderating effect of aesthetic risk and psychological risk on the relationship between sanitary risk and purchase intention in the context of SHC.

Secondhand clothing purchase intentions: Generation Z’s perspective

PurposeBased on the learning and attitudinal theories, this study aims to investigate the direct effect of two type of experiences, attitude and the indirect impact of fashion innovativeness, materialism and financial pressure on Generation Z’s secondhand clothing (SHC) purchase intention.Design/methodology/approachA total of 180 usable surveys were gathered from Generation Z participants and analyzed by a partial least-square-structural equation model.FindingsThe results show that attitude (SHC hygiene vs SHC fashion style) and past experiences (daily use occasion vs particular use occasion) directly affect SHC purchase intention. Furthermore, materialism, financial pressure and innovativeness drive attitudes toward SHC fashion style.Originality/valueThis study extends the current SHC literature by integrating two dimensions of experience (daily use occasion vs particular use occasion) and attitude (attitude toward SHC hygiene vs attitude toward SHC style).

Social and solidarity economy initiatives in circular economy: the case of second-hand clothing in Greece

Mainstream approaches to circular economy focus on the economic and the environmental dimensions disregarding the social element of sustainable development. Proper integration of the social dimension requires the adoption of a different consumption culture and of economic behavior in general, all of which fall within the mentality of the social and solidarity economy. This perspective places due attention to social responsibility (articulated through cooperation, solidarity, sharing with, and caring for others) aiming to serve the collective interest and to increase social value and wealth. Yet, the literature that explores the links between social and solidarity economy, sustainable development and circular economy remains limited. Aiming to contribute to this literature and to advance the social dimension of CE, the current work analyzes and evaluates specific CE initiatives specialized in the reuse of used clothing in Greece, employing the perspective of social and solidarity economy. These are: a collectivity, a social enterprise, and a non-profit organization. The research assesses their effectiveness and longevity discussing also their attachment to the ideals of social and solidarity economy. It finds that the examined initiatives are all successful and satisfy to a certain degree the values and principles of social and solidarity economy, providing a sound basis to expand and enrich the concept and the approach of circular economy with due emphasis on the social dimension.
 
 Keywords: Circular economy, social and solidarity economy, reuse, second-hand clothing, sustainable development
 JEL codes: B52, B55, D02, L31, O17, O35, Q56

An assessment of Africa’s second-hand clothing value chain: a systematic review and research opportunities

A rapid change in fast fashion has significantly accelerated the expansion of the volume of discarded clothing across the globe. Africa is the world’s largest destination for second-hand clothes (SHC, sometimes known as ‘Mitumba’). However, fewer studies have been conducted on Africa’s SHC, making it challenging to evaluate the impact of the market and its value chain. This study examines the economic contribution and assessment of the SHC value chain and the resulting environmental challenges, identifies the trends of scholarly discourse on the topic in Africa, examines their methodologies and develops future research opportunities. The study shows that the SHC trade is an essential supply chain connecting developed and developing countries and a valuable clothing consumption alternative for people experiencing economic decline, poverty and low purchasing power. SHC is crucial in delivering fashion products to customers in underdeveloped African countries. It also creates job opportunities for hundreds of thousands of people in the trade, distribution, repairs, laundry services and upcycling. Results further show that Africans are being enriched with new skills and knowledge of the SHC trade, which is expected to help grow and promote small- to medium-sized enterprises. However, poorly made Mitumba become unmarketable, creating environmental challenges in cities across the continent. The study found fewer empirical studies, due largely to limited data on Africa’s SHC trade. This calls for more empirical studies to scale the SHC trade in the region, expand the boundaries of entrepreneurial opportunities for Africa to interact with the global market, and alleviate the widespread problem of extreme poverty while also addressing the environmental challenges posed by SHC.

Profiling Consumers: Examination of Chinese Gen Z Consumers’ Sustainable Fashion Consumption

The textile and apparel industry is widely recognized for its negative impact on the environment and society, and China is one of the largest fashion-consumption markets worldwide. There has been a growing awareness and effort to address these concerns in China, and Chinese Gen-Z consumers are playing a crucial role in shaping sustainable practices. This study aimed to identify and profile Gen-Z consumers with substantial engagement in sustainable fashion consumption in China. Data were collected from 292 Chinese Gen-Z adults from three major cities, Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou, using a convenience sampling strategy and the snowball approach. Cluster analysis was employed, and two groups were identified: passionate eco-conscious consumers and indifferent fashion consumers. Multivariate Analysis of Variance (MANOVA) and the Crosstabs approach were utilized to examine the differences between the identified groups. The results revealed that passionate eco-conscious consumers valued classic design, high quality, and versatility, would like to pay more money for high-quality fashion clothing, and expressed their uniqueness through their fashion choices compared to indifferent fashion consumers. They actively sought sustainability knowledge and preferred supporting physical stores that sell second-hand clothing. Female Gen-Z consumers demonstrated a greater inclination towards sustainable fashion consumption in comparison to their male counterparts. A persona of Chinese Gen-Z consumers with high-level involvement in sustainable fashion consumption was created and presented for better marketing to Gen-Z consumers in China.

The second-hand clothing trade and moral economic contestations over (re)distribution in Tanzania

ABSTRACT Most clothing consumed in Tanzania is second-hand. The long-established trade in such clothes – locally known as mitumba – has proliferated since the 1980s and has sparked much debate. Critics consider the country's dependency on the import of discarded clothes an expression of the country's disadvantaged position in the global distribution of wealth. But mitumba also give consumers the opportunity to dress fashionably and provide small-scale traders a livelihood. This article, based on ethnographic observations and interviews combined with an analysis of archival sources, describes these debates in Tanzania, which resonate with contestations over the second-hand clothing trade in other countries in the Global South. However, a description of traders' and consumers' motivations shows that the mitumba debate is also based in country-specific contestations over nation-building and citizenship in relation to questions of distribution, redistribution, and economic justice. The debate therewith is an expression of wider moral-economic contestations in Tanzania.