Seam Pucker Research Articles

Investigating the Effect of Elastane Use on Tailorability and Appearance of Wool and Wool Blend Suiting Fabrics

ABSTRACT In this study, the effect of the use of elastane on the tailorability and appearance of 100% wool and different proportions of wool – man-made fiber blended worsted suiting fabrics was investigated. The evaluations were made by means of mechanical properties. Although the amount of elastane used in the weft yarn of elastane-containing fabrics differed in each group, it was observed that the effect of elastane varied mainly depending on the fabric weight. It was seen that the use of elastane increased the bending rigidity for heavy weight (290 g/m2 and above) fabric groups (groups 1 and 6) and negatively affected tailorability due to low shear rigidity for fabrics other than these groups. Except for the group with low fabric weight, all groups were found to improve the appearance in both weft and warp directions. However, it was concluded that fabrics containing 7% or more elastane in the weft may have a seam puckering problem due to low formability in the warp direction. The effect of elastane on extensibility was found to be influenced by fabric density, elastane content and construction in addition to fabric weight. The low fabric density and weight caused excessive extensibility, resulting in very poor tailorability.

Sustainable solution of sewing thread attributes on seam pucker

Bending rigidity magnitude of sewing thread provides a sustainable solution on the appearance of single needle lock stitched lightweight woven fabrics which are prone to pucker. Comparison of sewing thread bending rigidity with thread count, thread diameter, thread cyclic recovery and their resultant implication in the single lock stitched assemblies were given less consideration for the prediction and reduction of seam pucker severity. The resultant implication of physical and mechanical properties of sewing thread with rising trend of static thread tension magnitude at lock stitched sewing machine has significant impact on lightweight lock stitched fabric assemblies to predict and elude seam pucker. The present research is focused to investigate impact of the thread bending rigidity on count, diameter and cyclic recovery at 4th cycle of four cores spun sewing threads. The study concluded that sewing thread bending rigidity has high coefficient of determination of sewing thread; diameter (R2 =0.81), count (R2 =0.73) and cyclic recovery (R2 =0.77). Single needle 400 lock stitched samples of two cores spun sewing threads (t2 and t4) were prepared with ten plain weave lightweight woven fabric samples prone to pucker at four different static needle thread tensions. It is also established that combined effect of sewing thread static tension and cyclic recovery at sewing machine has significant coefficient of determination (R2>0.85 at low static thread tension and R2>0.73 at very high static thread tension) to predict and elude seam pucker severity. Research finding provides a sustainable solution to select the fine count sewing thread attuned with lightweight woven fabrics prone to pucker severity. It was observed that the Fine count sewing thread has lowest bending rigidity and 4th cyclic recovery magnitudes (R2 close to 1) to reduce or predict pucker severity for prone to pucker plain weave lightweight woven fabrics at minimum static thread tension (25gf ) on single needle lock stitched sewing machine (R2>0.81).

Quality improvement through export item rejection reduction using the implementation of statistical quality control (SQC) tools: a case study

Garment sector is one of the industrial sectors in Ethiopia. In this sector the final products are always with defect(s) which reduces attraction from customers and economic benefit from the business. With this intention, quality enhancement of shirt products through defect(s) rejection reduction using SQC tools was a vital task of this research. The study applied Pareto Analysis and Cause-and-effect diagrams for detailed examination of top defects. From the Pareto-analysis six top defect types; cuff assembly seam slip out, sleeve hemming, button slip out, side seam puckering, button missed, and placket seam out have been identified. These defects contributed 81.68% of all defects happening in the case company. Then root-cause analyses for these top defect types have been done and solutions have been suggested to overcome causes to reduce rejected shirts. Finally, the suggested solutions have been practically implemented through the organized implementation team from different departments of the case company including the researcher. This has given remarkable results of almost 67.3%, 2222 shirts, of export rejected shirts have been saved. These saved shirts have been exported additionally to the international market in line with the defect free products of that month and increased the income of the case company by 444,400 ETB to 555,500 ETB per month.

Simulation and prediction of seam puckering in the layers of woven fabrics using a yarn-level model

PurposeSimulating the behavior of clothing has always been of interest in the apparel, fashion and computer game industries. With the development of these industries, there is a need to increase the accuracy of clothing simulation techniques. A garment contains many seams whose behavior affects its final appearance. In this study, a numerical model is presented to simulate seam puckers in single- and double-layer fabrics.Design/methodology/approachA yarn-level simulation technique has been used for this purpose. Based on this technique, the individual threads in the fabric structure and the sewing threads are modeled separately. Then, their behavior and interaction with each other are considered in the seam pucker model.FindingsThe model is used to simulate the real samples. The results show that the proposed model is able to simulate the degree of seam puckering for a single-layer fabric with an average error of 7.9% and for a double-layer fabric with an average error of 8.5%.Originality/valueThe behavior of the seam is affected by the properties, behavior and interaction of the sewing threads and yarns in the fabric structure. In previous studies, the parameters related to seams and fabrics were not fully considered. In this study, a new yarn-level model is presented to simulate seam puckering in woven fabrics. The most important advantage of this type of simulation is the ability to examine the interaction of fabric threads as well as the interaction of sewing threads with each other and with the threads of the fabric structure.

Maximization of Sewing Strength and Minimization of Seam Pucker for Denim Fabrics Using Taguchi Method

Seams provide the shape of the garments and support the fabric pieces together. The seam quality is important for the serviceability of any garment. In general, the seam quality depends on various factors such as fabric weight, sewing thread type, and stitches per unit area. In this research, three different levels of fabric types with the same construction and different weights, which are mostly used in the production of denim products, were examined. For this purpose, each fabric was sewn in the warp direction with three different levels of sewing threads and three different levels of stitch densities. Then, the values of seam strength, and the seam pucker values were obtained with three replications for each combination of levels. In this study, it is aimed to obtain the optimum levels of fabric weight, sewing thread type, and stitch density of denim fabrics by using the Taguchi method. Custom Taguchi Design is employed to observe the efficiency of factor levels on seam strength and seam pucker, and existence of interactions among fabric weight, sewing thread type, and stitch density.

Seam pucker detection through presser foot displacement monitoring

The paper investigates the relation between seam pucker, woven fabric formability, and the presser foot displacement during stitch formation. Superimposed seams of class 1 were sewn in warp and weft direction using woven fabrics for tailored garments. The presser foot height was continuously monitored during stitch formation for different sewing machine speeds. The foot displacement during the sewing cycle was correlated with seam pucker. The obtained results showed various patterns of pressure foot displacement regarding the sewing machine speeds. It was found that at a lower machine speed there is no bouncing of the presser foot and the ratio of the height of the presser foot before and after rising and declining movement versus double thickness of the fabric (h/T1), correlates significantly with the seam pucker percentage. The fabrics having a higher h/T1 ratio showed a higher percentage of seam pucker. The obtained results suggest that online monitoring of this parameter can be a useful indication of on-seam pucker appearance, providing reliable means to obtain a quality seam.

Experimental analysis on the effect of fabric structures and seam performance characteristics of weft knitted cotton apparels

The objective of present research is to analyze the impact of knitted fabric structures, sewing thread types and stitch types on seam strength, seam slippage, seam pucker, and seam efficiency on quality of garments. Seams are basic necessities in the manufacturing of garments. In general, seam performance has an enormous impact on the garment quality. Seam and stitch types have a positive effect on the quality and appearance of garments. Seams of the garment must be durable and smooth. Stitch and seam types and stitch and seam parameters should be chosen according to the garments and fabrics (single jersey, rib, and interlock) Seam production of a garment also depends on structural and mechanical properties of the fabric such as strength, extensibility, protection, durability, appearance, and efficiency of the seams. The performance of seams also depends on the sewing conditions like size of needle, sewing thread tension, stitches per inch and lastly on the proper working and maintenance of the stitching machine. An experimental design was employed for the analysis which includes two types of sewing thread and four classes of stitch. The results exposed that differences existed between the two dissimilar threads in relation with seam quality Polyester-wrapped threads with a polyester filament core thread shows better seam strength, seam slippage, seam puckering and seam efficiency. It is noted that seam efficiency increases with seam angle and sewing needle type. It has been found that small ball point needle type exhibits poor seam efficiency but an improvement in efficiency has been observed with Medium ball point needle type and conical point needle type for all three knitted fabrics.

Evaluation of Seam Puckering and Seam Strength for Conductive Threads

Evaluation of Seam Puckering and Seam Strength for Conductive Threads

Investigation of interactions between fabric performance, sewing process parameters and seam pucker of shirt fabric

Seam pucker is a common problem in sewing. It not only affects the appearance of product, but also affects product performance. The purpose of this study is to quantify the complex dynamic interactions between fabric performance, sewing process parameters and seam pucker. In order to solve the problem of shirt seam pucker, this study selected four kinds of shirt fabrics, three kinds of polyester sewing threads, three kinds of stitch density and four kinds of seam types for experiments. Through unitary regression analysis, the subjective and objective evaluation results are consistent. Further analysis the results of objective experiment revealed that fabric performances, seams type, sewing thread and stitch densities all have impact on seam pucker. Meanwhile also find out the sewing process parameters for the four fabrics when the seam shrinkage’s were smallest, so it’s helpful for the apparel enterprises to improve seam quality. Multiple linear regression analysis of experimental results show that fabric performances has the greatest influence on seam pucker, thickness, weight and warp density of fabric properties significantly affect seam pucker. And as the breaking elongation of sewing thread increases, seam pucker also increases. Stitch densities and seam type has the least affected on seam pucker, they affect the seam pucker by changing the extension of stitch and thickness of fabric at the seam, respectively. Seam type has greater impact on fabrics that are prone to seam pucker, seam type T1 get larger seam shrinkage than T4. Finally, the complex dynamic interactions was quantified and expressed through mathematical models.

Effect of sewing parameters on the functional performance of swimwear

The last years of the 20th century seams real changes in sportswear due to the rapid development in fabric structure, which provide the players with the compatibility between body movement and structure of clothes during doing the sport , with over looking to the composition of swimwear it needs special technique in order to get best performance which represented in ( seam strength – seam elongation – seam slippage – seam puckering – seam penetration force ) where many problems appears in production process in swimming wear has negative impact on the quality of products .

The impact of sewing thread's tensile behavior and laundering process on the seam puckering of elastic and normal fabrics

PurposeThe aim of the present study is to consider the influence of the tensile behavior of fabric and sewing thread on the seam appearance.Design/methodology/approachIn this study, the formation of seam puckering on two elastic and normal woven fabrics was explored. In order to prepare samples, various sewing threads were applied. Test specimens were sewn under five different thread tension levels. Then the appearance of samples was evaluated subjectively to determine their seam puckering grade before and after the laundering process.FindingsThe obtained outcomes of this study present that although sewing thread tension increment decreases the seam pucker ranking in the similar sewing condition, elastic fabrics have a greater seam pucker grade compared to the normal fabric due to the fabric extension and contraction during sewing and after sewing process, respectively. In addition, the elastic strain of the sewing thread is the key factor that determined sewing thread's tendency to make seam puckering. Moreover, the laundry process due to the relaxation of the sewing thread decreases the seam pucker grade.Originality/valueThe consistency of the tensile property of fabric and sewing thread is a crucial parameter in improving the seam appearance and obtaining a smooth seam.

Assessment of Seam Properties of Ahimsa Silk Union Fabrics

Sustainable fashion is not merely a short term trend but it could last many seasons and for generations to survive on the earth. Silk fiber is the most beautiful natural fiber known as the “Queen of Textiles”. Ahimsa silk is a non-violent, eco-friendly and sustainable process of the production. Hand spun and hand woven cotton fabric is another model of sustainable fabrics. Therefore, union fabrics in different ratio viz. 33:67, 50:50 and 67:33 were prepared from cotton with Ahimsa (Eri) silk and Conventional (Muga and Tussar) silk yarns. Objective of the study was to assess sewability parameters of union fabrics. These fabrics were tested for their seam puckering, seam stiffness and seam thickness parameters. The results indicate that union fabrics produced by Ahimsa silk with cotton were compatible to the union fabrics produced by Conventional silk with cotton yarns in their sewability parameters, so these should be preferred for construction of various fashion garments and textile products.

A model of seam pucker and its applications Part I: theoretical

This article considers a simple model of the lock stitch (301) seam, and uses it to derive a measure of the severity of puckering in the seam. The numerical value of the measure depends on the bending properties of the fabrics and thread in the seam, together with the tensions in the threads. How the latter may be estimated is discussed.

A Model of Seam Pucker and Its Applications. Part II: Experimental

A simple model of a lockstitch seam (301) has been developed in part I, which is used to derive a measure of the severity of puckering in the seam.This article compares the numerical assessment of pucker, derived from the model in part I, with fabric mechanics experiments and visual assessments of the phenomenon. It is shown that there is good linear correlation between the two. The model is then used to evaluate with precision, which of a selection of stiffeners, is needed to reduce pucker to an acceptable level, without overstifenning the seam. This work has implications in design and garment construction and manufacture, and in easy care garments. For the first time the idea of, precisely selecting a siffener so that it can locally to the seam alter the mechanics of the assembly, is introduced, as minimum intervention in the combat of seam puckering.

Investigation of sewing and water repellent performance of outdoor clothing

PurposeDurability of textile materials under wet conditions has become very important in recent years. The water repellency performance of fabrics should be maintained in the seam areas. The purpose of this paper is to analyze the effect of water repellent agents and sewing threads on the seam and water repellency performance properties of woven fabrics.Design/methodology/approach100 percent polyester woven fabrics were treated with three different water repellent finishing agents (silicone, fluorocarbons with 6 and 8 carbons) and then sewn with different sewing threads (unfinished/water repellent finished polyester/cotton corespun and polyamide filament). Afterwards, mechanical properties, seam performance and water repellency properties of these materials were measured.FindingsThe effect of finishing which was statistically significant on seam strength only in warp direction was significant on seam elongation and efficiency in both warp and weft directions. Seam strength, seam efficiency, seam slippage and seam pucker of fabrics sewn with polyamide threads were higher than others. The fluorocarbons applied to the fabrics gave higher water repellency values than silicones. In addition, as the chain length increased in fluorocarbons, water repellency performance increased. Sewing process reduced water resistance of fabrics; however, water repellent finish applied to the threads increased water resistance of fabrics.Originality/valueAs a result of the literature review, it was seen that water repellency property of a wear were studied in only seamless areas of fabrics. Originality of this study is that the water repellency properties are also analyzed in the seam areas of the fabrics and evaluated together with the seam performance characteristics.

Comparison of seam puckering between light and medium weight woven cotton apparels: A study on lapped and edge neatening seam

Comparison of seam puckering between light and medium weight woven cotton apparels: A study on lapped and edge neatening seam

Functional Properties and Seam Puckering on Cotton Shirt Influenced by Laundering

Functional Properties and Seam Puckering on Cotton Shirt Influenced by Laundering

Ispitivanje nabiranje šava kod ženske bluze

In this study, mechanical properties of the fabrics were investigated in order to find the cause for seam puckering problem in armhole and neckline area of woman's blouse. The same model of woman's blouse was produced from two types of fabrics with different raw material content: 100% silk and 100 % polyester. The obtained results show that both fabrics have a low shear rigidity, indicating that fabrics extension in bias direction is high. The fabrics extension in bias direction has influence on seam puckering in armhole and neckline area of the blouse because there is sewing in bias direction except sewing in warp and weft directions.

Automatic seam pucker evaluation using support vector machine classifiers

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to propose a novel method using support vector machine (SVM) classifiers for objective seam pucker evaluation. Features are extracted using wavelet analysis and gray-level co-occurrence matrix (GLCM), and the samples are evaluated using SVM classifiers. The study aims to solve the problem of inappropriate parameters and large required samples in objective seam pucker evaluation.Design/methodology/approachInitially, seam pucker image was captured, and Edge detection and Hough transform were utilized to normalize the seam position and orientation. After cropping the image, the intensity was adjusted to the same identical level through histogram specification. Then, the standard deviations of the horizontal image and diagonal image, reconstructed using wavelet decomposition and reconstruction, were calculated based on parameter optimization. Meanwhile, GLCM was extracted from the restructured horizontal detail image, then the contrast and correlation of GLCM were calculated. Finally, these four features were imported to SVM classifiers based on genetic algorithm for evaluation.FindingsThe four extracted features reflected linear relationships among five grades. The experimental results showed that the classification accuracy was 96 percent, which catches up to the performance of human vision, and resolves ambiguity and subjective of the manual evaluation.Originality/valueThere are large required samples in current research. This paper provides a novel method using finite samples, and the parameters of the methods were discussed for parameter optimization. The evaluation results can provide references for analyzing the reason of wrinkles during garment manufacturing.

Investigating the relation of fabric’s buckling behaviour and tension seam pucker formation

In the present study, the formation of tension seam pucker is considered in more details in order to compute the thread compression load in terms of sewing thread tension. To this end, the stitch formation in the fabric is simplified. The exerted thread compression force on the fabric in each stitch is calculated according to the thread tension, its mechanical properties and the cycles that the sewing thread suffers before shaping the stitch. In addition, the fabrics properties that are effective on the seam puckering are measured and their relation with the applied load on the fabrics is investigated. This process is carried out for 12 various fabrics which can be classified into three groups according to the application in the clothing. Outcomes indicated that it is possible to compute the compression force on the fabric in each stitch in every sewing tension level that is useful to predict the seam puckering formation in fabrics with known mechanical properties. The results of this research help to analyse the compression load on the fabric based on sewing thread tension.