Ispitivanje nabiranje šava kod ženske bluze

Stefan Maksimov,Sashka Golomeova-Longurova,Sonja Jordeva,Darko Andronikov

doi:10.5937/tekstind1903045m

Abstract

In this study, mechanical properties of the fabrics were investigated in order to find the cause for seam puckering problem in armhole and neckline area of woman's blouse. The same model of woman's blouse was produced from two types of fabrics with different raw material content: 100% silk and 100 % polyester. The obtained results show that both fabrics have a low shear rigidity, indicating that fabrics extension in bias direction is high. The fabrics extension in bias direction has influence on seam puckering in armhole and neckline area of the blouse because there is sewing in bias direction except sewing in warp and weft directions.

Highlights

The development of the apparel industry is conditioned by the successful management in terms of price and delivery on the one hand, and constant monitoring and meeting consumer demands in terms of quality on the other
Formability values under 0.25 mm2 create the possibility of fabrics producing seam puckering after sewing
The FAST system doesn’t set control limits for fabric extension in bias direction, low shear rigidity shows that the fabric extension is high

Summary

INTRODUCTION

The development of the apparel industry is conditioned by the successful management in terms of price and delivery on the one hand, and constant monitoring and meeting consumer demands in terms of quality on the other. During the clothing manufacture fabrics are exposed to various deformations like extension, compression, shear and bending that affect the aesthetic and functional quality of seams. Many researchers have investigated the influence of structural and mechanical properties of fabrics on seam puckering. Dobilaite and Petrauskas’s [3] research has shown that shear rigidity, extension and flexibility of the fabrics have an impact on the seam puckering. Stylious and Lloyd [4] have investigated the influence of mechanical properties of fabrics on seam puckering and results show that shear and bending rigidity are the main factors which have influence on this defect. Mechanical properties of the fabrics were investigated to find the reason for seam puckering in woman’s blouse during the production process

Materials

Methods

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

CONCLUSION