field notes Karen J. Maschke, Associate for Ethics and Science Policy Editor Optimism. "You have to be an optimist here, despite all the odds. Otherwise, pack your bags and leave." That's what Dr. Jean Pape, the founder and director of the first HIV voluntary counseling and testing center in Port-au-Prince, Haiti, told Science magazine last year. Known as GHESKIO (Groupe Haitien d'Etudes du Sarcome de Kaposi et des Infections Opportunistes), the center conducts nearly twenty thousand HIV tests a year and provides free antiretroviral drugs to approximately eight thousand individuals. Its nurses and physicians also treat patients for active tuberculosis, syphilis, chlamydia, and gonorrhea, and its psychologists offer HIV/AIDS and rape counseling. In addition, GHESKIO is one of several global trial sites for three HIV vaccine trials. Haiti has the unfortunate distinction of being the poorest country in the Western hemisphere. Most Haitians do not have formal jobs. Only about half of the population over fifteen years old can read and write, and less than 30 percent of primary school children will reach the sixth grade. Yet every morning and afternoon in Port-au-Prince—where a large percentage of the population live in extreme poverty with no electricity, sanitation, or portable water—children can be seen walking to and from privately run schools wearing their distinctive uniforms and backpacks. A few of those children may grow up to become doctors, nurses, or pharmacists like those in the research ethics course I taught last fall for public health students at the Quisqueya University Medical School. Meeting for nearly ten days in a small windowless classroom at GHESKIO, we examined the ethical issues related to research with humans. After the first day or so—when the students and teacher typically don't know what to make of each other—we settled into a rhythm of lectures punctuated by candid, engaging discussions in English, French, and Creole about informed consent, vulnerable populations, and the ethical challenges of conducting clinical trials in resource-poor settings. Several of the students were GHESKIO physicians involved with the HIV vaccine trials. They provided the rest of us with firsthand accounts of the ethical challenges involved in recruiting vulnerable populations to participate in the trials and in determining whether antiretroviral treatment should be provided during and after trial participation. When the course was over, I realized that I had probably learned more from the students than they did from me: that humans persevere in the midst of chaos and crisis, and that hope for a better future sustains dedicated health professionals in providing services to some of the world's poorest and most neglected people. I look forward to learning more from the students who will be in this year's course, and from the GHESKIO professionals who work day in and day out to prevent disease and improve the health of their patients. Karen J. Maschke, Associate for Ethics and Science Policy Editor IRB: Ethics & Human Research Copyright © 2007 The Hastings Center