Pattern Drafting Research Articles

A Comprehensive Approach to Pattern Drafting for Women with Large Bust Cup Sizes through Advanced 3D Virtual Clothing Systems

A Comprehensive Approach to Pattern Drafting for Women with Large Bust Cup Sizes through Advanced 3D Virtual Clothing Systems

Capacity Building Needs for Manual and Computer Assisted Teaching of Pattern Drafting for Entrepreneurship in Tertiary Institutions in Nigeria

This study investigated the capacity building needs for manual and computer assisted teaching of pattern drafting for entrepreneurship in tertiary institutions in Nigeria. The study was conducted and guided by two research questions and two hypotheses. This study adopted an ex-post facto research design. The population for the study consisted of 131 Home Economics lecturers from the Universities, Polytechnic, and Colleges of Education in South East Nigeria. The entire population was studied because of its manageable size, hence there was no sampling. The results of this study showed that the Home Economics lecturers are competent in drafting patterns using manual method. Technical skills required for lecturers of Home Economics to advance from manual to computer-assisted teaching of pattern drafting were identified. They include ability to grade patterns, ability to use software packages, and ability to discuss procedures of pattern drafting among others. Based on the findings, it was recommended among others that computer assisted teaching of pattern drafting should be incorporated and applied by Home Economics lecturers to ensure that students acquire technical skills that will enable them to enter into entrepreneurship.

의복 여유량 산출을 통한 남성복 재킷 패턴 제도 공식의 정확성 검증

Background/Objectives: The purpose of present study is to verify the size prediction accuracy of pattern drafting formulas through the trend line drawing for anthropometric data and ease allowances calculation. Methods: Pattern drafting formulas were investigated from 6 men's jacket textbooks. A scatter plot with the y-axis as the predictor variable and the x-axis as the input variable in each formula was created using Size Korea data. A trend line was drawn on the scatter plot to observe the change in ease allowance, and to determine the formula that showed the most accurate slope. Correlation analysis and regression analysis were conducted to derive the pattern drafting formulas supplementing problems of analyzed formulas. Results: For ‘armscye depth’, method A was confirmed to be most suitable, and a drafting formula using both chest circumference and height was recommended. For 'waist back length', method E showed the best results, and the explanatory power was the highest when the total length was used. For ‘side waist to hip length’, it was recommended to use direct measurements. For ‘back neck width/2’, it was found that using the neck circumference was appropriate. The ease allowance on ‘armscye width’ was excessively reduced according to the increase of chest circumference since the flatness of the human body was not reflected in the drafting formulas. To remedy this problem, it was recommended to use both bi-shoulder length and back neck to ground length for ‘front width’, and use only bi-shoulder length for ‘back width’. Conclusion/Implications: Since the analyzed men's jacket pattern drafting textbooks did not reflect the actual change of Korean men's body size, a correction of drafting formulas using Size Korea data is needed.

A Novel Approach of 3D Based Pattern Making Block by Analyzing Positional Deviation of Draping and Drafting Method

As 3D-based pattern making and onscreen fit evaluation is the neoteric way of garment production which allows constructing 2D (drafting) and 3D (draping) based pattern making simultaneously. This study approaches to evaluate the deviation of major checkpoints of the upper body which have been made of conventional pattern-making methods and proposes a new Block for the Female Upper Torso. This study is carried out on a physical and virtual mannequin of equal size with identical physical properties and body dimensions. Basic Bodice blocks are developed using “Metric pattern cutting” and “The art of fashion draping” methods for Pattern Drafting and Pattern Draping respectively. Positional deviations of major checkpoints are evaluated through comparative analysis. Logical decisions are made to construct new Pattern Blocks (Back, Front & Sleeve) where both Draping and Drafting methods are justified through physical and virtual fit evaluation where CLO 3D software is used. After fit evaluation by 10 Fashion educators, it is observed that the “Metric pattern cutting” Method poses more ease allowance than “The Art of Fashion Draping'' Method. The other observation of Shoulder Length, Shoulder Slope, Armhole Depth, Neck Girth, Bust Girth, Dart Placement, and Dart intake also deviated. Average values and average positions between these two systems show a better fit to generate a New Block.

Application of Computer Aided Design (CAD) and Flat Techniques in Teaching Pattern Drafting by Clothing Lecturers in Universities in South East, Nigeria

The purpose of the study was to investigate the application of computer aided design (CAD) and Flat techniques in teaching pattern drafting by clothing lecturers in Universities in South East, Nigeria. The population for the study was 48 lecturers. The entire number of Clothing lecturers in the above three universities were used because of the manageable size. A questionnaire was utilized for data collection (0.94 Cronbach’s alpha). Data collected were analyzed using mean and standard deviation. The major findings of the study showed that some of the challenges in the application of CAD and Flat instructional techniques in teaching pattern drafting include lack of skills on the part of the teachers, insufficient numbers of computers and insufficient technical support for teachers, among others. Orientation of teachers on the importance of computer aided design instruction, using blended approach in teaching, and use of another pattern drafting technique among others are strategies to overcoming the challenges of CAD and Flat technique of pattern drafting instruction by Clothing Lecturers. Among the recommendations made was that curriculum planners and lecturers should make effort to adopt the use of CAD as one of the instructional techniques in teaching pattern drafting.

Capacity Building Needs of Home Economics Lecturers for Computer Assisted Teaching of Pattern Drafting for Entrepreneurship in South East Nigeria

This study looked at the capacity development requirements of Home Economics teachers in South East Nigeria for computer-assisted pattern drafting training. A research question and a hypothesis led the investigation. Ex-post facto research was used in this study. A total of 131 Home Economics lecturers from universities, polytechnics, and colleges of education in South East Nigeria were included in the study. Because of its manageable size, the complete population was investigated, so there was no sampling. Capacity Building Needs for Computer Assisted Teaching Questionnaire (CBNCATQ) was used for data collection. The instrument was face validated and tested for internal consistency using Cronbach Alpha Coefficient. Data obtained from the respondents were analyzed using Statistical Package for Social Science (SPSS). Percentage, mean scores and standard deviation were used to answer the research question while the hypothesis was tested with a t-test at a 0.05 level of significance. The results of this study showed that training on the use of computers, ability to use various pattern drafting materials and equipment, availability of electricity to power equipment, and ability to follow basic principles of pattern drafting among others were capacity building needs of lecturers. Based on the findings, it was recommended among others that lecturers should be given opportunities for in-service training on computer usage and workshops should be organized for the lecturers on the benefits of using computers in teaching.

HOME ECONOMICS RETIREES: PROSPECTS AND CHALLENGES IN HARNESSING GARMENT CONSTRUCTION SKILLS FOR SECURING FAMILY FUTURE SUSTAINABILITY IN RETIREMENT.

The study involved 120 Home Economics Association (HETAN) members from Badagry and Ojo Local Government areas of Lagos state. The objectives where to ascertain the various garment construction skills, evaluate the prospects of harnessing the various skills, assess the challenges faced by Home Economics retires in harnessing garment construction skills for sustenance in securing family future in retirement. Three hypotheses were formulated and a thirty-seven (37) item questionnaire was the main instrument used to collect data for the study. The statistical tools used were frequency count, percentages, mean, and Friedman test for significance. The study reveals that 114 (95.0%) agreed retirees should have the skill of handling the sewing machine. The majority 93(77.5%) agreed professionalism in pattern drafting is important. Majority 114(95.0%) agreed taking appropriate body measurements is necessary. Majority 105(87.5%) agreed skill of constructing garment according to use. 63(52.5%) have the challenge of setting money aside for business start-up before retirement. 78 (65.0%) do not want to have family responsibilities after retirement. 108 (90.0%) agreed gratuities are not promptly paid. 78(65.0%) agreed retirees who are not active die early. Majority 111(92.5%) agreed Home Economics retirees must be active in business. Majority 102 (85%) agreed they have thought of garment construction as a business when they retire. In conclusion, garment construction affords Home Economics retiree’s lots of opportunities for family sustenance in retirement. Therefore, the following recommendation is made: Lagos State Government should pay retirees benefits promptly; would-be retirees should join a functioning co-operative society.

COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF THE USE OF PATTERN DRAFTING AND FREE HAND CUTTING METHODS AMONG TAILORS AND APPRENTICES IN KENYA AND GHANA

Purpose: The study aimed at evaluating comparative analysis of the use of pattern drafting and free hand cutting methods among tailors and apprentices in Kenya and Ghana. 
 Methodology: For this research, the study used a cross-sectional descriptive design. The target population was tailors in Githurai, Kenya and Dwa Kitiwam, Koforidua, Ghana. A sample was drawn randomly from this sampling frame which comprised of 30 tailors, with 15 being from Githurai, Kenya and 15 from Dwa Kitiwam, Koforidua, Ghana. This study further used questionnaires to collect primary data. Data obtained from the field was coded and filtered and systematically sorted according to the questionnaire objects using frequency distributions and proportions. With the aid of the Social Science Statistical Package (SPSS) version 26, the researchers used both descriptive and inferential statistics to analyze the results. 
 Results: Ghana is more inclined to pattern drafting than free hand cutting compared to Kenyan tailors who are inclined to free hand cutting as much as pattern drafting. Proving that the individuals vary in their views on free-hand cutting and pattern drafting revealed that the tendency of dressmakers and tailors for free-hand cutting was affected by the technique with which they were educated and the simplicity associated with free-hand cutting processes. 
 Unique Contribution to Theory, Practice and Policy: Instructors should cultivate the utilization of pattern drawing to acquire a deeper understanding of the skills of pattern drafting

Development of E-magazine Based on Flipbook Maker on the Pattern Drafting Home Clothing in the Faculty of Engineering Medan State University

In online learning, lecturers need to modify/develop learning media so that students dont experience difficulties in understanding the learning material. The purpose of this study are: (1) To know how is media development flipbook maker based e-magazine on the pattern drafting of home clothing (2) To know the effectiveness flipbook maker based e-magazine media on the pattern drafting of home clothing. The development model used in this research is the ADDIE. the development procedure (1) Analysis, namely identifying products that are in accordance with the goals of students. (2) Design are, includes designing the initial product and the pattern drafting home clothing. (3) Development, e-magazine media based on Flip book maker will be developed by research hers according to a predetermined design. (4) Implementation (5) Evaluation is carried cut in the form of evaluation formative.

Assessment on Practical Training in Garment Construction: The Case of Formal and Informal Institutions in the Wa Municipality of Ghana

Most fashion design students after completing their programme in the formal sector return to the informal sector for practical training in the Wa Municipality of Ghana. It was observed that the apprentices in the informal sector were conversant with direct cutting method and seemed to be more practically inclined than students in the formal training sector of the Municipality. The study therefore assessed the methods of cutting-out in garment construction course by trainees in the formal and informal sectors. Data collected from the trainees and trainers in the formal and informal institutions of the Wa Municipality. Two hundred and forty (240) students from the formal institutions, 120 trainees from the informal institutions, 18 formal trainers (teachers) and 60 informal trainers were sampled for the study. Results of the study revealed that teachers and students in the formal institutions were not conversant with the direct cutting method due to lack of standard books and were not keen at teaching direct cutting. Trainers and trainees in the informal institutions were conversant with both direct cutting and pattern drafting methods but also complained on the non-availability of documented instructions on direct cutting method. Student trainees in the formal institutions did not also have adequate practical periods making them inadequately fit to join the fashion industry. The trainees in the informal institutions though regarded as ‘roadside’ products, acquired skills in direct cutting method and could establish businesses though their cutting method wastes fabric and time. The direct cutting has also becomes the most common method engaged by many dressmakers in Ghana. The study recommends fashion scholars publish books on the right drafting method for direct cutting and the Ministry of Education to review the TVET curriculum, allocating more time for practical training and acquisition of skills. Keywords: Cutting-out methods, Trainees, Formal sector, Informal sector, Wa Municipality, Skills DOI: 10.7176/JEP/13-1-03 Publication date: January 31 st 2022

Determination of Competencies Needed in Patternmaking by Clothing and Textile Students for Large-Scale Garment Production in Anambra State

This study looked into competencies needed in patternmaking by clothing and textile students for largescale garment production in Anambra State. Based on a descriptive survey research methodology, the study was guided by three research questions and three hypotheses that were significant at the level of 0.05. To concentrate on a determined specialized number, purposive sampling was used as the sampling approach. Twenty-five Home Economics Education students constituted the sample size for the study. Data were collected using a questionnaire produced by the researcher. Two professionals independently validated the instrument. Cronbach’s alpha was employed to examine the internal consistency of the instrument, and reliability value of 0.79 was obtained. A ttest was used to evaluate the hypotheses after the responses were analyzed using the arithmetic mean and standard deviation scores. The results showed that there is no significant difference in the mean ratings of state and federal college of education students in sloper/block patternmaking, flat pattern drafting and fashion draping for largescale garment production in Anambra State. Recommendations and conclusions were drawn based on the findings.

Determination of Competencies Needed in Patternmaking by Clothing and Textile Students for Large-Scale Garment Production in Anambra State

This study looked into competencies needed in patternmaking by clothing and textile students for large-scale garment production in Anambra State. Based on a descriptive survey research methodology, the study was guided by three research questions and three hypotheses that were significant at the level of 0.05. To concentrate on a determined specialized number, purposive sampling was used as the sampling approach. Twenty-five Home Economics Education students constituted the sample size for the study. Data were collected using a questionnaire produced by the researcher. Two professionals independently validated the instrument. Cronbach’s alpha was employed to examine the internal consistency of the instrument, and reliability value of 0.79 was obtained. A totes was used to evaluate the hypotheses after the responses were analyzed using the arithmetic mean and standard deviation scores. The results showed that there is no significant difference in the mean ratings of state and federal college of education students in slope/block patternmaking, flat pattern drafting and fashion draping for large-scale garment production in Anambra State. Recommendations and conclusions were drawn based on the findings.

APPRENTICES PERCEPTION ON APPAREL FIT MADE WITH PATTERN DRAFTING AND FREE-HAND CUTTING METHODS

Purpose: To assess the perceptions of apprentices on apparel fit made with pattern drafting and free-hand cutting methods.
 Methodology: The study employed a cross-sectional descriptive survey was considered adequate for this study as it has the advantage of soliciting respondent’s views on the nature of the situation as it existed at the time of a study. The design is an efficient way of collecting information of a large group of people within a short time using questionnaires. The survey design was deemed appropriate for this study as it has the advantage of seeking the views of informal dressmakers and tailors on the use of pattern drafting and free-hand cutting in apparel construction. It allowed for the use of both quantitative and qualitative techniques in the study. This paved way for better understanding of a phenomenon under study. The use of these methods offered the opportunity to have in-depth information and also the weakness in one method is compensated for by the strength in another method.
 Results: respondents agreed that using free-hand cutting method of apparel construction has certain limitations such as its inability to neither produce a perfect fit, takes care of fullness nor bring out the curves among others. Less than one third of the respondents were of the view that free-hand cutting contributed to perfect fit of apparel. Apprentices held a positive view about the use of pattern drafting as providing better fit of apparel as compared to free-hand cutting. It was summed that although free-hand cutting was the main training method used, some styles, because of their unique features, could only be cut with pattern and comes out better than free-hand cutting.
 Unique Contribution to theory, practice and policy: The implication is that given the opportunity, training and necessary materials, these apprentices would start using more of pattern drafting than free-hand cutting. Therefore, the study recommended that the IDTA increase the opportunities of pattern drafting training which will lead to more production of better apparel fit.
 The study recommended the IDTA should enact policy to incorporate pattern drafting and other methods of apparel construction into the training curriculum of apprentices to develop interest in the use of these methods right from the onset. Additionally, the study suggested future studies to focus on the factors that contribute to the dropouts during the apprenticeship period.

A virtual e-bespoke men's shirt based on new body measurements and method of pattern drafting

Customization is prevailing in the apparel industry with increasing requirements from consumers and the popularization of new technologies. This study aimed to establish the novel approach of applying existing and new body measurements to customize the pattern block of a men's shirt, to enrich the anthropometric database, and to develop the fit evaluation procedure. New body measurements were extracted from 156 scanned male mesh bodies in accordance with the morphological features and developing method of pattern block sketching. Owing to these new body measurements, the customized shirt with assured high-level fit can be obtained by generating original patterns as bespoke, on the one hand, and by transforming ready-to-wear patterns, on the other hand. The first way is e-bespoke tailoring that utilizes the developed schedule of body morphological features, improved shirt pattern of desired style (body fit, slim fit, regular fit, and comfort fit), and virtual try-on software CLO 3D. The proposed method of virtual e-bespoke design allows readily completing a well-fitted and balanced men's shirt, which will contribute to the efficiency of customization and quality of end-products for the apparel industry.

Comprehensive Drafts of Woven Fabrics

The crux of this paper is based on the pattern drafting of woven fabrics. It is necessary because many textile designers or weavers cannot generate and develop their personal pattern drafts for weaving. It is obvious that they mainly copy other people’s designs to weave. This paper therefore has provided an easy and simple way to learn, focus and develop their original designs to weave. The practical production method is used to create, generate and develop the pattern drafts in this paper. The paper focuses on the components of the pattern draft which will surely help to forecast and have a view of the appearance of the design before it is woven on the cloth. In conclusion, the weaver will be able to record and document his/her original works for posterity.

MANAGERIAL PERCEPTIONS ON APPAREL FIT MADE WITH PATTERN DRAFTING AND FREE HAND CUTTING TECHNIQUES

Purpose: To assess the management perceptions on apparel fit made with pattern drafting and free-hand cutting techniques.Methodology: The study employed a cross-sectional descriptive survey was considered adequate for this study as it has the advantage of soliciting respondent’s views on the nature of the situation as it existed at the time of a study (Creswell, 2012; Mugenda, 2008). The design is an efficient way of collecting information of a large group of people within a short time using questionnaires. The survey design was deemed appropriate for this study as it has the advantage of seeking the views of informal dressmakers and tailors on the use of pattern drafting and free-hand cutting in apparel construction. It allowed for the use of both quantitative and qualitative techniques in the study. This paved way for better understanding of a phenomenon under study. The use of these methods offered the opportunity to have in-depth information and also the weakness in one method is compensated for by the strength in another method (Creswell, 2012).Results: The results revealed that dressmakers and tailors’ preference to free-hand cutting was influenced by the method they were trained with. Additionally, standardization of apparel production among the members can best be achieved by intensifying the use of pattern drafting as part of apprenticeship training to ensure accuracy in fit among informal dressmakers and tailors locally. The respondents were asked to state their views on whether educational level hinders the progress of their training.Unique Contribution to theory, practice and policy: Reason why informal dressmakers and tailors were not using pattern drafting in apprenticeship training might be related to the fact that pattern skills seemed too difficult to understand and the period of training might be short to grasp the details of the method. Taking their educational level and period of training into consideration, it would be very difficult for the apprentices to cope with the contents that come with patterns. This implies that, there is the need to inculcate the use of pattern drafting as part of training curriculum of apprentices and also increase the period of training to allow both masters and apprentices gain better grasp of the pattern drafting skills. When trainees are given adequate training skills on the use of pattern drafting, they would improve and this would in effect manifest in the high standard on fit of apparel among the dressmakers and tailors in the informal setting in the near future. The study recommended future studies to focus on the factors influencing training and acquisition of both skills of apparel constructions. This will help the policy makers rectify the structure of education accordingly to improve the way skills are disseminated and executed.

Development of a Mobile-Based Application Software Body Size Calculator

Clothing fit is one of the important factors affecting consumers’ purchasing behaviour and clothing satisfaction. The aim of this study was to develop a mobile-based body size calculator program to compare standard mass production body measurements with female body measurements taken individually. Another aim of the study was to investigate the effects of size difference between the body measurements taken individually and mass productionbased measurements on pattern drafting. At the end of the study, the program developed was run, the differences between the patterns examined and pattern modifications made according to the results obtained.

Effect of Constructivist Instrumental Four-Step Approach on the Achievement and Retention in Pattern Drafting by Nigerian Certificate in Education Home Economics Students in South-South Zone, Nigeria

This study was designed to determine the effect of constructivist instructional four-step approach on the achievement and retention in pattern drafting by Nigeria Certificate in Education Home Economics students in south-south zone, Nigeria. The study adopted a quasi-experimental research design which involved groups of students in their intact classes assigned to experimental and control groups respectively. The population for the study was 333 year-one students of all the colleges of education in the six (6) states in south-south Nigeria, out of which 118 students were purposely sampled and used for the study. Five research questions and four null hypotheses, tested at 0.05 level of significance guided the study. The instruments used for data collection were Pattern Drafting Cognitive Test (PDCT), Pattern Drafting Psychomotor Test (PDPT). The instruments; PDCT, PDPT were validated to ensure face and content validity. The instruments were trial-tested to determine the psychometric indices, namely; internal consistency of the items and coefficient of stability. The data collected were analyzed using mean and standard deviation to answer the research questions. Null hypothesis were tested using analysis of covariance (ANCOVA) at 0.05 level of significance. The study revealed that the constructivist instructional four-step approach was more effective in improving students’ academic achievement and retention of learning.

A Study on the Comparative Analysis of Slim Pants Patterns for Men in Their 20s

The purpose of this study was to select patterns for slim fit pants, for the following main research, to develop new pants patterns that are suitable and preferable for men in their 20s. We compared and analyzed the patterns of which are currently in the market. We compared 10 different slim pants pattern drafting and analyzed their differences. Then, we examined their appearances and functionalities thru a male model test fitting 10 different samples of the pants. The conclusions of the research results were as follows. We listed the patterns in the following order based on the numbers of items each pattern has, which are statistically considerable for the evaluation to the optimum satisfactory level among the total of 35 testing categories: J > B=I > F=H > A > C=G > D > E. In the functionality test of the pants, we found that it was too tight around the waist and abdomen area with Pattern D, where-as it was too loose around the waist with Pattern C:,-, yet, both of the patterns indicated that it is a good fit in over-all. Therefore, we chose Pattern E, D, C, and G as the existing pants patterns that could be used for further research and for educational purposes to develop a slim pants pattern for men in their 20s.

가상 착의 시 고어드스커트의 패턴 제도 요인이 실루엣에 미치는 영향

The purpose of this study is to compare how the number of panels, the amount of flare and the flare starting point affect the silhouette of the gored skirt. This study consisted of (1) creation of 3D body representations (2) comparison of silhouette between 3D virtual gored skirt and actual gored skirt by pilot experiment (3) pattern drafting of twenty-seven different gored skirts for 3D body representations (4) a computer simulation of twenty-seven different gored skirts for visualization and assessment (5) visual inspection of twenty-seven different 3D virtual gored skirts (6) comparison of ham shapes and measurements for the node and size analysis. A visual inspection of twenty-seven different 3D virtual gored skirts showed clear differences by the amount of flare and the flare starting point ; however, there was notably less difference in the width of ham among six-piece, eight-piece and ten-piece panels. This demonstrated that there was less influence on the number of panels than the amount of flare width of ham and extent of ham for the 3D virtual gored skirt.