A Novel Approach of 3D Based Pattern Making Block by Analyzing Positional Deviation of Draping and Drafting Method

Abstract

As 3D-based pattern making and onscreen fit evaluation is the neoteric way of garment production which allows constructing 2D (drafting) and 3D (draping) based pattern making simultaneously. This study approaches to evaluate the deviation of major checkpoints of the upper body which have been made of conventional pattern-making methods and proposes a new Block for the Female Upper Torso. This study is carried out on a physical and virtual mannequin of equal size with identical physical properties and body dimensions. Basic Bodice blocks are developed using “Metric pattern cutting” and “The art of fashion draping” methods for Pattern Drafting and Pattern Draping respectively. Positional deviations of major checkpoints are evaluated through comparative analysis. Logical decisions are made to construct new Pattern Blocks (Back, Front & Sleeve) where both Draping and Drafting methods are justified through physical and virtual fit evaluation where CLO 3D software is used. After fit evaluation by 10 Fashion educators, it is observed that the “Metric pattern cutting” Method poses more ease allowance than “The Art of Fashion Draping'' Method. The other observation of Shoulder Length, Shoulder Slope, Armhole Depth, Neck Girth, Bust Girth, Dart Placement, and Dart intake also deviated. Average values and average positions between these two systems show a better fit to generate a New Block.