Pattern Drafting Research Articles

Red Hot

The art of functional items for the home—specifically, the cotton coil hot pad—was the source of inspiration for this contemporary women's special occasion dress. The primary challenge in designing, pattern drafting, and constructing the dress was to create coils that were three-dimensional, yet followed the curves of the body. Red polyester satin was chosen as the material for the dress, and draping technique was used to begin creation of the dress's shell. The primary element of the dress are the narrow satin tubes, which were filled with cotton cording, swirled into the coil shapes, and hand stitched to the shell. The halter is fastened at the front of the neck with a hidden and adjustable snap closure, and the back halves of the dress are joined together with a hook and eye closure.

The Impact of Fashion on the Cutting Practices for the Woman's Tailored Jacket 1800-1927

This article explores the way in which fashionable items in a woman's wardrobe became accessible to a mass female market during the nineteenth century thanks largely to the interaction of fashion requirements themselves and developments in pattern drafting and grading, but also supported by contemporary social and cultural change. Using the case of the woman's jacket, it shows how progress in cutting techniques, in measurement, in the 'shape' of fashion, and in the use of the more flexible practices of dressmaking, allowed manufacturers to produce and sell — in the new department stores and elsewhere — a cheaper, fashionable yet ready-made tailored garment that appealed to large numbers of women.

Men's Shirt Pattern Design: Part I: An Experimental Evaluation of Shirt Pattern Drafting Methods

This is part I of the two-parts series of papers dealing with the pattern drafting of men's dress shirts. Although there has been many published shirt pattern drafting methods, the appropriateness of such drafting methodsfor different body morphology has not been validated with systematic experiments. This paper reports on an experimental evaluation of the shirt pattern drafting methods from four tailoring experts. 19 men's dress shirts were made by an experienced tailor, each providing best fit to 19 Chinese male subjects having a wide variation of body shape, respectively. The shirt patterns were traced and their dimensions were compared with those calculated from the pattern drafting formulae of the four tailoring experts, It was found that the best-fit patterns deviated much from the patterns calculated from the existing shirt pattern drafting formulae. It is believed that the existing pattern drafting formulae may only be appropriate for a narrow group of people. For a large population, an improved pattern drafting method needs to be developed.

Management of simple finger injuries: the splinting regime.

Mallet finger injury, ligamentous sprain and dislocation of proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint of fingers are very common types of simple hand injuries. Immediate correction of alignment and protection of the injured area will facilitate early joint movement while maximising functional recovery. This article is to introduce the fabrication of three simple finger splints to tackle these injuries for quick and effective conservative treatment. They are the mallet finger splint, buddy splint and dorsal finger block splint. The indications and functions of the three types of splints are discussed. The fabrication process will be illustrated; including materials needed, pattern drafting and steps of molding. Wearing regime and precautions will be highlighted to ensure effective patient compliance to splinting programme for the finger injuries.

주문생산을 위한 자동제도 토르소 원형연구 -20대 여성을 중심으로-

An efficient torso pattern has been developed to cope with the future trend of order-based, individualized production like the E.C.(Electronic Commerce) in the apparel industry, and to make a database foundation of automatic garment pattern drafting. For this purpose, a non-contact three-dimensional anthropometric measurement system was used to provide a lot of accurate body data for better individual fit, and an automatic pattern drafting system that can easily generate various size patterns and construct a pattern database has been developed too. The subjects of this research were 18 to 24 year-old women whose data had been gathered through the Korean national investigation of anthropometry for industrial standards in 1997 and various body shapes were analyzed by the measurements. And a special software system has been developed to verify the validity of newly proposed drawing rules. The results of sensory evaluation for appearance and moving fitness of the new torso pattern showed a significant improvement in individual fit even for the figures with large deviation from standard shape compared with the results of the traditional one. <br/>

Development of three‐dimensional apparel CAD system

A comprehensive apparel CAD system was developed to perform automatic garment pattern drafting and the prediction of the final drape shape of designed garment putting on the human body. Three dimensional apparel CAD system starts with a flat garment pattern drafting system. A computerized pattern design script language has been created based on the traditional patterner’s principles to develop an automatic draft system of performing basic garment pattern drafting as well as grading rule generation. A pattern modification system was also developed considering functions required in apparel CAD such as auxiliary pattern generation, seam line creation, and dart manipulation to generate engineering patterns which can be used in the three dimensional garment shape prediction system presented later in part II of this paper.

Communications

Apparel pattern making creates a set of pattern pieces of fabric which are sewn into the desired garment. The pattern pieces are developed through fashion analysis, pattern design and pattern drafting. Seeks to build an object‐oriented model of the apparel pattern‐making process through these subprocesses. Defines the model in terms of a requirements specification and subsequently uses it in the development of a computerized pattern‐making system. Uses object behaviour analysis, which is derived from object‐oriented technology, as the method for defining the model.

Development of a Commercial Made‐to‐Measure Garment Pattern System

Describes a PC‐based CAD system for producing made‐to‐measure garment patterns which has been developed and implemented in the commercial environment of a bridalwear manufacturer. The software simulates the hand drafting methods of the company while automating pattern production with the following benefits: first, very rapid production of made‐to measure patterns; second, production of patterns which require minimal alteration at first fitting; third, a user friendly interface with very short training period; fourth, the de‐skilling of the pattern cutting procedure so that problems of staff turnover and training are minimal; and fifth, the elimination of human error in pattern cutting. Initial software development concentrated on bodice patterns. Further enhancements included sleeves and skirts and the mixing and matching of these three components of a dress. Cutting layouts were produced using automatic layout algorithms so that the whole procedure from order and measurements entry through pattern drafting and lay‐planning to the final full scale plotting could be carried out automatically. Furthermore, a queuing system allowed several orders previously entered on the computer to be processed in succession without any intervention by an operator. All the company’s styles are now held by the computer, which is in constant use, to the exclusion of the previously used skilled and lengthy hand drafting methods.

The Development of American Menswear Pattern Drafting Technology, 1822 to 1860

Between 1822 and 1860 American pattern drafting technology changed from a direct system of drafting to a proportional system, enabling the menswear ready-to-wear trade to develop standardized patterns. The emergence of standardized patterns coincided with the transformation of the American menswear tailoring industry from a handmade customized production system to a mechanized ready-made manufacturing system. This study examined 41 American pattern drafting systems to determine trends in drafting technology. Besides their technological value these systems also provide information on regional specialization, the conveyance of pattern drafting technology, and the level of skill artisans needed to remain competitive in the early industrial American menswear garment industry. The development of standardized pattern drafting systems in early 19th-century America provided one of the catalysts to transform the menswear ready-to-wear tailoring trade into a large scale factory production system.

Three-Dimensional Pattern Drafting

An algorithm for computationally drafting garment patterns from three-dimensional data is presented. A functional relationship for the garment definition step of an earlier theoretical framework is developed for a basic skirt. The three-dimensional form of an individually fitted skirt is modeled using this relationship and then projected, using the method developed in Part I, to produce a two-dimensional pattern. Previously reported methods for drafting garment patterns from three-dimensional data have combined the garment definition and projection steps; this has restricted the form of the garment that can be produced. In our method, the only factors that place restrictions on the form of the garment are the physical characteristics of the fabric from which the garment will be sewn, the figuration of the body, and the cultural definition of the garment.

Three-Dimensional Pattern Drafting

An algorithm is presented for computationally drafting patterns from three-dimen sional data, in which the fabric is everywhere in contact with the underlying surface. The algorithm is based on an earlier theoretical framework, which models draping a garment as a two-step process. In this part, a functional relationship for the fabric flattening step of that framework is developed for woven fabric. Use of the algorithm is demonstrated in drafting coverings for a spherical object. The only factors that restrict the form to be fitted are the physical characteristics of the fabric. Previously reported methods for drafting patterns from three-dimensional data have been severely limited by arbitrarily chosen projections. In Part II, a functional relationship for the garment definition step of the framework is developed for a basic skirt.

Three-Dimensional Pattern Drafting

Drafting systems currently in use do not adequately model the physical process of fitting a garment. A theoretical frame work for draftingindividually fitted patterns based upon modeling the physical process of fitting a garment by draping is presented. The present state-of-the-art and existing theoretical frameworks are reviewed. The idea is developed that mapping, or projection procedures, in the mathematical sense of the terms can be used to model the process of fitting a garment. Approaches to identifying functional relationships for each part of the framework are suggested.

Stage Costume Technique

Joy Spanabel Emery has given us a textbook packed with technical knowledge on “preparing costumes and getting them on stage on time.” As a teacher and designer, I welcome her fund of experience. Ms. Emery’s advice is well-tried, and it ranges over all aspects of the costumer’s craft from sketch to first night, and beyond. Workroom organization and equipment, pattern drafting, choice of fabrics, costume construction and fitting, dyeing, basic millinery and prop-making, and (very important) budgeting and the charts and lists that help to plan the smoothrunning work schedule. All this and more is discussed in soundly practical terms. As the author puts it at one point, “It is very frustrating to have to stop construction in order to buy needles for the sewing machine because the supply has run out.” She speaks later about how necessary it is for “a costumer . .. to get along with people .. . a sense of humour makes the job easier.”