Moderate Wave Conditions Research Articles

A Sea-State-Dependent Control Strategy for Wave Energy Converters: Power Limiting in Large Wave Conditions and Energy Maximising in Moderate Wave Conditions

A Sea-State-Dependent Control Strategy for Wave Energy Converters: Power Limiting in Large Wave Conditions and Energy Maximising in Moderate Wave Conditions

Assessing shoreface sediment transport at Costinha beach, Aveiro, Portuguese Northwest coast

Coastal zones are dynamic environments where sediment transport significantly influences erosion, deposition, and ecosystem stability. Accurate modelling of the complex interactions between hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and morphological changes in high-energy shoreface areas is crucial for sustainable coastal management. This study aims to assess sediment dynamics and understand the dominant physical drivers of sediment transport in the shoreface by coupling high-resolution numerical modelling with a shoreface sand tracer experiment. Results from the field experiment showed high diffusion and a net onshore and downdrift movement of the tracer in agreement with the observed hydrodynamic data. The numerical modelling strategy, validated with in situ hydrodynamic data and tracer results, demonstrated good performance and highlighted the dominant modes of shoreface sediment transport. While during low energetic wave conditions, the dominant transport mechanism involves the slow-rate bed load sediment movement toward the shore, under moderate energetic wave conditions, longshore wave-induced suspended transport becomes the prevailing mode of transport. The study provides valuable insights to increase the understanding of sediment transport in the shoreface and highlights the importance of coupling numerical modelling with sediment tracer experiments.

OBSERVATIONS AND MODELING OF EROSION AND RECOVERY OF A COUPLED BEACH-DUNE SYSTEM

The geomorphic and ecological vulnerability of barrier islands is influenced by the way they respond to oceanographic and anthropogenic forcing over a broad range of temporal scales. Integrated models capable of simulating these processes are increasingly necessary to understand barrier island trajectories under future conditions and to aid in management decisions by evaluating the impact of potential restoration activities. While there are numerical models capable of simulating some of the dominant barrier processes, the role of beach berm evolution is rarely included despite the important function of berms in sustaining beaches, enabling dune growth via Aeolian transport, and mitigating backshore and dune erosion during storm events. This is primarily due to a lack of available data that resolves details of beach profile evolution at necessary temporal scales (e.g., seasonal, post-storm recovery, etc.) to test and develop models and the inherent difficulty of including these intra-annual processes into decadal scale models of barrier island evolution. Here we describe a unique and growing dataset of environmental forcing and barrier island topographic change. We also use the dataset to develop and test a model for barrier island evolution and quantify the role of storms, moderate wave conditions, and wind-driven transport in dictating coastal change on various timescales.

RETRACTED ARTICLE: Artificial heat waves induce species-specific plastic responses on reproduction of two spider mite predators

AbstractClimate change models predict that the frequency, intensity and duration of heat waves will increase in the next decades. Heat waves can have profound impact on the reproduction of biocontrol agents ranging from postponing oviposition to manipulating offspring quantity via egg number and quality via egg size. Such species-specific responses of biocontrol agents to heat stress may also affect their success in controlling the target pest. Here, we evaluated the predation and reproductive performance of the two spider mite predators Phytoseiulus persimilis and Neoseiulus womersleyi exposed to simulated mild, moderate and extreme heat wave conditions over three days. Irrespective of heat wave conditions, all N. womersleyi females survived, whereas 12% of the P. persimilis females died. Both species responded to heat stress via plastic modifications resulting in increased predation rates and smaller egg sizes. Significantly more P. persimilis females postponed oviposition during the experimental phase than N. womersleyi. The deposited egg number of Phytoseiulus persimilis was not affected by heat wave conditions. On the contrary, the reproductive output of N. womersleyi was a function of temperature, i.e., the higher the temperature, the higher the number of deposited eggs. These findings indicate that P. persimilis is more heat sensitive in relation to reproduction than N. womersleyi. However, further investigations of heat wave effects on other fitness-related traits and their consequences at population level are needed to find out whether N. womersleyi is an alternative or supplement to P. persimilis as spider mite control agent under heat waves.

ADV-Based Investigation on Bed Level Changes Over a Meso-Macro Tidal Beach

Beach intra-tidal bed level changes are of significance to coastal protection amid global climate changes. However, due to the limitation of instruments and the disturbance induced by wave motions superimposed on water levels, it was difficult to detect the high-frequency oscillation of the submerged beach bed level. In this study, an observation, lasting for 12 days and covering the middle tide to the following spring tide, was conducted on a meso-macro tidal beach, Yintan Beach, to simultaneously detect the characteristics and influence mechanism of bed level changes at intra-tidal and tidal cycle scales. The collected data included water depth, suspended sediment concentration (SSC), waves, high-frequency three-dimensional (3-D) velocity, and the distance of the seabed to the acoustic Doppler velocimeter (ADV) probe, which were measured by an optical backscatter sensor, two Tide & Wave Recorder-2050s, and an ADV, respectively. The results showed that the tidal cycle-averaged bed level decreased by 58.8 mm, increased by 12.6 mm, and increased by 28.9 mm during neap, middle, and spring tides in succession, respectively, compared with the preceding tidal regimes. The net erosion mainly resulted from large incident wave heights and the consequent strong offshore-directed sediment transport induced by undertows. Moreover, the variations in the bed level were more prominent during a neap to middle tides than during middle to spring tides, which were jointly caused by the wave-breaking probability regulated by water depth and the relative residence times of shoaling wave, breaker, and surf zones that were determined by relative tidal range. In terms of the intra-tidal bed level, it displayed an intra-tidal tendency of increase during floods and decrease during ebb tides, i.e., the intra-tidal bed level changes were controlled by water depth, which modulated the effects of waves on sediment resuspension and vertical sediment exchange. To be specific, waves and SSC were responsible for the intra-tidal bed level changes under low-energy wave conditions, while mean current and bedform exerted important influences on the variations of the intra-tidal bed level under moderate wave conditions, which broke the foregoing interrelation between bed level, waves, and SSC. This study, therefore, emphasizes the usage of ADV measurement to investigate bed level changes in sandy coasts.

Behaviour and performance of a dynamic cobble berm revetment during a spring tidal cycle in North Cove, Washington State, USA

In many places, sandy coastlines and their associated assets are at high risk of erosion and flooding, with this risk increasing under climate change and sea level rise. In this context, dynamic cobble berm revetments represent a potentially sustainable protection technique to armour sandy beaches, reduce wave runup and protect the hinterland against wave attack. However, the behaviour and performance of such structures is not well understood. The dynamic cobble berm revetment located in North Cove, WA, USA, was monitored over a spring tidal cycle in January 2019. A representative 60 m alongshore section was monitored over 10 days using 2D laser scanner (lidar) measurements, GPS ground elevation surveys, Radio Frequency Identification of individual cobbles and revetment thickness measurements. These data were used together to assess the dynamic behaviour and functionality of the revetment throughout the experiment. Over the course of the experiment, the surface elevation changed by up to ±0.5 m, and the revetment volume reduced by an average 0.67 m3/m. These changes were found to be caused by relatively large significant wave height and high water levels. The revetment demonstrated a dynamic stability and the capacity to quickly reshape under changing hydrodynamic conditions. The instrumented cobbles were transported along and cross-shore and accumulated at the toe of the revetment, but were never transported seaward of the toe. The revetment also managed to recover some of the lost volume under moderate wave conditions. The revetment behaviour was found to be influenced by variation in the cobble-sand matrix. The underlying sand dynamics – i.e., accumulation or removal of sand within the cobbles – were found to govern the overall volume changes and were important to the overall stability of the revetment. Seven possible transport regimes were identified, and a model of the internal sand dynamics was developed. During the spring tidal cycle measured here, the revetment protected the sand scarp immediately landward and prevented flooding of the hinterland, while armouring the underlying sand. Over time, renourishment will likely be required due to longshore sediment transport, and preliminary guidelines for this and other aspects of design are suggested.

Collapse of a Coastal Revetment Due to the Combined Effect of Anthropogenic and Natural Disturbances

Coastal structures, such as revetments, are built to protect specific areas and facilities from the attack of extreme waves. However, unexpected environmental damage could be induced from these structures when inappropriately applied. Here, we present the results of measurements carried out using a video monitoring system, indicating the rapid collapse of a coastal revetment due to the attack of storm waves. The destruction occurred in sequence; that is, it was initiated by human activities, followed by a natural disaster. First, the beach in front of the revetment was eroded, even under moderate wave conditions, because sediments transported into this area were blocked by a rip-rap jetty. After the beach width was severely reduced due to the erosion, the revetment collapsed when storm waves attacked the area. The destruction seems accidental and inevitable because it was directly caused by the storm. However, it could have been avoided by predicting and preventing the erosion due to the jetty. This study provides insights into sequential processes that lead to the failure of coastal revetments, which could be applied for prevention of similar anthropogenic disasters.

Numerical modeling of the influence of tides on cross-shore sediment dynamics of dissipative beaches under moderate wave conditions

The influence of tides on cross-shore sediment dynamics of a longshore-uniform beach is studied by means of a 1D numerical model (XBeach). The model is modified to include longshore tidal currents induced by water level gradients. The effect of tides on cross-shore sediment dynamics is quantified by analyzing the change in suspended sediment concentration, sediment advection velocity, and sediment transport. The effect of tides is decoupled into its two main components, i.e., water level fluctuations and tidal currents. Water level fluctuations modulate wave orbital velocities, wave-averaged currents and sediment advection velocity, therefore affecting both resuspension of sediments and cross-shore sediment transport. Tidal currents favor tidally-averaged sediment resuspension due to the increase in applied shear stress on the bed. The effects of water level fluctuations and tidal currents on sediment dynamics vary in the cross-shore direction: tidal currents increase sediment resuspension in deeper water depth, while water level fluctuations control the changes observed in shallow waters. In shallow waters, tidal amplitude is a good indicator of the influence of longshore propagating tides on the cross-shore sediment dynamics of a uniform beach, while in deeper waters, tidal wavelength also plays an important role. The model predictions are able to capture the trends observed in field measurements.

Community-Based Portable Reefs to Promote Mangrove Vegetation Growth: Bridging between Ecological and Engineering Principles.

Despite all efforts and massive investments, the restoration of mangroves has not always been successful. One critical reason for this failure is the vulnerability of young mangroves, which cannot grow because of hydrodynamic disturbances in the shallow coastal water. For a comprehensive study bridging ecological and engineering principles, a portable community-based reef is proposed to shield mangroves from waves during the early stages of their growth. A series of field observations were conducted on Amami Oshima Island (Japan), to observe the growth of young mangroves and their survival rate under moderate wave conditions. The evolution of young mangroves was also observed in the laboratory under a controlled indoor environment. At the research site, it was confirmed that, after six months of germination, young mangroves could withstand normal high waves. Laboratory-grown plants were lower in height and had fewer leaves compared with the native mangroves on Amami. Based on these results, an economical reef system was designed. For this purpose, the Ahrens formula for the design of a low-crested reef breakwater was revisited. The results showed that a 50-cm-high reef constructed with 15-kg stones can protect mangroves that are a few months old and effectively promote early mangrove growth.

Compact floating wave energy converters arrays: Mooring loads and survivability through scale physical modelling

The current cost of electricity has been preventing the technological progress of wave energy converters. The use of compact wave energy converters arrays is seen as a technological breakthrough for reducing these costs. These array configurations aim to maximize the energy extracted per unit area of marine space and to promote the sharing of components and installation, operation and maintenance tasks. Mooring lines are fundamental components in these systems and represent a considerable portion of the project cost. Reducing the number of mooring lines through the application of arrays with inter-body connections has a high potential for cost reduction. In this paper, we present the experimental study of different configurations of a five-device array of spar-buoy oscillating-water-column wave energy converters in a wave basin, focusing on the analysis of the devices motion and the mooring line loads. The study compares the performance of a single isolated device, an array with independently-moored devices and three arrays with inter-body connections, with different levels of connectivity in the mooring arrangement. Tests were carried out for moderate and extreme wave conditions. Results show good performance for all configurations when subjected to moderate sea conditions. Under extreme sea conditions, high peak tensions were observed in the lines of all array configurations. Particularly large values were detected in the inter-body lines, caused by their full extension. Based on these results, guidelines for the design of mooring systems for compact wave energy converter arrays are presented.

Extreme wave runup on a steep coastal profile

It is shown that very steep coastal profiles can give rise to unexpectedly large wave events at the coast. We combine insight from exact solutions of a simplified mathematical model with photographs from observations at the Norwegian coast near the city of Haugesund. The results suggest that even under moderate wave conditions, very large run-up can occur at the shore.

Rip current hazard assessment on a sandy beach in Liguria, NW Mediterranean

Rip currents are one of the most significant environmental hazards for beachgoers and are of interest to coastal scientists. Several studies have been conducted to understand rip current dynamics, and several approaches for rip hazard assessment have been proposed. In general, the purpose is to provide knowledge and tools to support authorities and lifeguards in rip current risk prevention. This study proposes the application of an expeditious methodology to evaluate rip current hazard and risk, based on probability theory. The tested area was located along the Alassio beach, a renowned tourist destination located on the western Ligurian coast (NW Italy). A coastal video-monitoring system was used for rip currents individuation, whereas wave data were collected thanks to an oceanographic buoy managed by Regione Liguria. In detail, a yearly analysis was performed to identify the correspondence between rip currents and wave parameters data. The results showed that rip currents occur, in the study area, under moderate wave conditions (0.5 le H_s le 1.34 m; 4.7le T_m le 7.0 s; 150^{circ },hbox {N} le theta _m le 227^{circ } N). Based on this analysis, an easy application of the probability theory was applied to evaluate the level of hazard. Moreover, considering the official tourist data, we also perform an expeditious rip currents risk evaluation. The results showed that the hazard level is considered high at annual time scale and moderate during the tourist season; the risk is related to seasonal presences. The study can propose a tool to support authorities and lifeguards in water safety planning and management.

Dynamics of Barred Shore Profile on the Temporal Scale of a Storm Cycle

A model is developed to simulate the morphodynamics of a barred shore profile on the scale of a storm cycle, comprising the phases of high and low wave activity. In the CROSS-PB model, the main mechanisms governing sediment transport in wave shoaling and surf zones are taken into consideration, in particular, skewness and asymmetry of the wave orbital velocities, undertow, and infragravity oscillations associated with wave groups. By comparing calculations with observed data, it is concluded that the model correctly reproduces seaward displacement of bars during a storm and shoreward under moderate or weak wave conditions. The first process is shown to be provided by balance of transport mechanisms when the peak offshore transport is located at the front slope of bar. The second process is conditioned by dominant shoreward transport and its sharp decay over the bar crest. Testing of the model yields estimates for the calibration coefficients, and it is concluded that shoreward sediment flux is mainly controlled by wave asymmetry.

South Baltic rip currents detected by a field survey

The paper presents results of experimental investigations of currents in the nearshore region of the south Baltic Sea. The analysis is based on the field data collected near Lubiatowo (Poland) using the measuring equipment which was simultaneously operated both by the Polish and Russian research teams. The venture was aimed at detection of rip currents that are rare and insufficiently explored phenomena in the south Baltic coastal zone. The data include wind velocity and direction, deep-water wave buoy records and currents surveyed by means of drifters. The measurements were carried out in the area whose hydrodynamics, lithodynamics and morphodynamics are typical of the south Baltic sandy coast. It appears that the nearshore water flows are mostly represented by longshore wave-driven currents with mean velocities of 0.22–0.53 m/s, and the maximum velocity of 1.32 m/s. Water circulation patterns resembling rip currents with velocities of up to 0.34 m/s were identified only on one day, when specific wave conditions occurred at the study site. Contrary to strong longshore currents generated by storm waves, rip currents occur under mild or moderate wave conditions, when many beach users are willing to swim in nearshore waters. The present findings can therefore be useful for the improvement of swimmers’ safety in the south Baltic Sea regions.

Modeling multiple wave systems in the eastern equatorial Pacific

While moderate wind and wave conditions prevail in the eastern equatorial Pacific, modeling waves in this area remains challenging due to the presence of multiple wave systems converging from different parts of the ocean. This area is covered by swells originated far away including the storm belts of both hemispheres, coexisting with local generation due to the regular action of both the southern trade winds and the wind jets from Central America. In this context, our ability to predict waves in the area depends on the overall quality (i.e., at Pacific scale) of the meteorological input, and also on the skills of the wave model itself. Clearly any error at the remote generation areas translates into larger errors the further waves go, especially if attention is focused on coastal areas. A relevant aspect is that the traditional integral parameters do not offer the possibility to properly assess the errors associated with the different parts of the spectrum (e.g., wind sea and swell). To gain insight in this direction, we make use of partitioning techniques, which enables us to neatly cross-assign and evaluate three spectral components. Not surprisingly, the performance for the swell part is lower than that of the corresponding wind sea. This is further explored with a couple of tests modifying both the wind input and the wave model physics. We find that although at first sight the initial scheme (i.e., ST4) seems to provide the better estimate, the spectral analysis reveals a substantial underestimation of wind sea, compensated with a substantial overestimation of swell. This suggests a problem with too high winds and wave generation in the storm belts together with a likely lack of dissipation or dispersion of swell. In turn, local waves are generally underestimated due to a corresponding underestimation of the local winds. This insight emphasizes the need and advantages of evaluation methods able to look at the different sectors of the wave spectrum.

Mechanisms of sediment trapping in coastal embayments off the Shandong Peninsula in summer—A case study in Weihai Bay

This paper investigates sediment trapping in coastal embayments during summer seasons based on observation data obtained from two instrumented tripods that were placed at the mouth of Weihai Bay on north coast of Shandong Peninsula, China, over a 15-day period between 5 and August 20, 2018. The data consisted of time series of water depths, current profiles, wave parameters, near-bed flow velocities, turbidity, water salinity and temperature. Distributions of suspended sediment concentration (SSC) and water temperature in the bay and adjacent sea areas were also investigated at 87 grid stations from July 31 to August 4, 2018. From these data the bed shear stresses, residual currents and suspended sediment fluxes (SSF) were calculated. The results indicated that the variability in the SSC at the northern mouth was mainly controlled by local sediment resuspension while at the southern mouth horizontal advection due to the SSC gradient was the dominant mechanism. To identify the main drivers of the sediment transport, the SSF was analyzed using the decomposition method. The seaward advective transport due to residual flow and landward tidal pumping effect dominated the total near-bed sediment transport at the northern and southern mouths, respectively. Therefore, trapping processes occurred mainly through the southern mouth. The suspended sediment fluxes (SSF) during neap and spring tides at the southern mouth were 0.053 and 0.321 g m−2 s−1, respectively, while during moderate wave conditions (Hs > 0.8 m), the SSF was two times larger than the spring tide. In summer, the fine-grained sediments trapped in the bay were mainly derived from resuspension off the eastern tip of the Shandong Peninsula and thus is indirectly from the Yellow River. During such sediment transport and trapping processes, upwelling and winds can also play important roles.

Decreased thermal tolerance under recurrent heat stress conditions explains summer mass mortality of the blue mussel Mytilus edulis

Extreme events such as heat waves have increased in frequency and duration over the last decades. Under future climate scenarios, these discrete climatic events are expected to become even more recurrent and severe. Heat waves are particularly important on rocky intertidal shores, one of the most thermally variable and stressful habitats on the planet. Intertidal mussels, such as the blue mussel Mytilus edulis, are ecosystem engineers of global ecological and economic importance, that occasionally suffer mass mortalities. This study investigates the potential causes and consequences of a mass mortality event of M. edulis that occurred along the French coast of the eastern English Channel in summer 2018. We used an integrative, climatological and ecophysiological methodology based on three complementary approaches. We first showed that the observed mass mortality (representing 49 to 59% of the annual commercial value of local recreational and professional fisheries combined) occurred under relatively moderate heat wave conditions. This result indicates that M. edulis body temperature is controlled by non-climatic heat sources instead of climatic heat sources, as previously reported for intertidal gastropods. Using biomimetic loggers (i.e. ‘robomussels’), we identified four periods of 5 to 6 consecutive days when M. edulis body temperatures consistently reached more than 30 °C, and occasionally more than 35 °C and even more than 40 °C. We subsequently reproduced these body temperature patterns in the laboratory to infer M. edulis thermal tolerance under conditions of repeated heat stress. We found that thermal tolerance consistently decreased with the number of successive daily exposures. These results are discussed in the context of an era of global change where heat events are expected to increase in intensity and frequency, especially in the eastern English Channel where the low frequency of commercially exploitable mussels already questions both their ecological and commercial sustainability.

Application of portable streamer traps for obtaining point measurements of total longshore sediment transport rates in mixed sand and gravel beaches

Observations of the depth integrated and time averaged sediment transport on a mixed sand and gravel (MSG) beach are presented and analysed to examine the performance of a new portable streamer trap. Measurement of the longshore sediment transport rate in the surf zone remains one of the great challenges in coastal engineering and coastal sciences. Sediment traps for sand beaches have proven useful in the past, but are not suitable for MSG beaches. This paper describes a portable depth-integrated streamer trap designed to measure the depth-integrated combined bed load and suspended longshore sediment transport on MSG beaches. The device consists of a polyester sieve cloth mounted into a rectangular holding frame. The stability of the device is achieved by gravity: the combined weight of the device and the operator, who is standing on and down-current of the device. The device has been tested in the field under moderate wave conditions at Minsmere, UK. We show that the observed suspended and bed load sediment transport are proportional to the wave energy flux, as formulated in the standard theoretical model, CSHORE. The data suggest that the empirical efficiency of wave breaking and bed load parameter are several orders of magnitude larger than that previously observed for uniform fine sand values.

Analysis of wake effects on global responses for a floating two-turbine case

While most existing modeling and analysis of floating wind turbines (FWTs) considers isolated systems, interactions among multiple FWTs arranged in an array have received little attention. In this study, two 10 MW semi-submersible FWTs, separated by 8 rotor diameters (D) in the wind direction, are simulated with an ambient wind speed of 10 m/s and in moderate wave conditions using FAST. Farm to investigate the effects of wakes on global responses. Synthetic inflow is generated using three methods: the Kaimal turbulence model, 1) without and 2) with spatial coherence in the lateral and vertical velocity components, and 3) the Mann turbulence model (where spatial coherence in all three dimensions is inherent to the model). The first method results in negligible wake meandering, a relatively uniform wake deficit, while the second and third methods result in meandering of the upstream turbine’s lateral wake center at the downstream turbine’s rotor plane of up to approximately 1D and 1.5D, respectively. The slow meandering behavior of the upstream turbine’s wake resulted in increased low-frequency platform motions for the downstream turbine. Yaw motions were especially susceptible to wake meandering as the standard deviation of the downstream turbine’s yaw motion increased by 28.0 % for the second method and 11.3 % for the third method. Increased low-frequency response in structural loading was also observed. Wake effects led to between 2 % and 30 % greater fatigue damage at the top of the tower for all three methods and at the base of the tower for the second method. However, other results were found to be sensitive to the blade-passing frequency.

An idealised study for the evolution of a shoreface nourishment

We develop an idealised one dimensional (cross-shore) morphodynamic model that couples wave, tide and sediment dynamics to study the effect and evolution of a shoreface nourishment. Sediment fluxes driven by wave skewness, wave asymmetry (both onshore) and return flow (offshore) are considered. With the aid of new analytical expressions for the skewness and standard deviation of wave velocity and acceleration, sediment fluxes are calculated. Nourishment is viewed as a perturbation to the system in equilibrium that is subject to the divergence of the perturbed sediment flux and a gravity driven diffusion term. Depending on the location, a nourishment may provide a feeder or lee effect. In moderate and mild wave conditions, the evolution of a nourishment primarily depends on the relative location of nourishment and break point. Placed well offshore of the break point, the nourishment induces an overall positive perturbation in sediment flux, resulting in onshore migration (feeder effect). Located closer to the break point, the nourishment induces an earlier wave breaking, which dissipates part of the wave energy (lee effect), leading to a negative sediment flux perturbation around this break point and a positive sediment flux perturbation around the break point of the un-nourished beach. Depending on the intensity of the earlier breaking, the nourishment either migrates onshore (weak break) or splits into onshore and offshore moving parts (strong break). The relative importance of the diffusion term and the divergence of perturbed sediment flux may lead to a primarily migrating or decaying evolution of nourishment. In storm wave conditions, the nourishment tends to move offshore due to the predominance of return flow driven sediment flux. The sensitivity to wave period and tide are also studied. Model results are consistent with observations, as well as prevailing theory on cross-shore sediment transport.