Large-scale Wave Research Articles

Computation Models for Tsunami Wave Propagation using Extended Cellular Automata

Using traditional models to simulate the propagation of large-scale tsunami waves leads to low accuracy and low efficiency. To ensure higher timing accuracy of tsunami wave spread, built an enhanced model that connects cellular automata with an existing model of tsunami waves. To determine the ideal time step value, our approach considers how time steps affect simulation accuracy. The spread of tsunami waves using a two-dimensional cellular automata model was used to test the model. Extending cellular automata (CA) models for tsunami wave propagation involves incorporating additional complexity and realism to better simulate the dynamics of these natural phenomena. The findings indicate that 1/4 of the time required for all of the cellular material to be traversed is the ideal time step for the tsunami wave spread global cellular automata simulation program. With a mean accuracy of 86.78% and a mean Kappa coefficient of 0.6443, this model demonstrated strong temporal and spatial consistency when compared to historical tsunami wave data from NOAA. Combining the Kappa coefficient with extended cellular automata (ECA) can be beneficial in various applications, particularly those involving classification tasks or spatial modeling. The earliest arrival tsunami wave spread can be predicted and simulated using this approach.

Performance Characteristics of Newly Developed Real-Time Wave Measurement Buoy Using the Variometric Approach

Accurate measurement of ocean wave parameters is critical for applications including ocean modeling, coastal engineering, and disaster management. This article introduces a novel global navigation satellite system (GNSS) drifting buoy for surface wave measurements that addresses the challenges of performing real-time, high-precision measurements and realizing cost-effective large-scale deployment. Unlike traditional approaches, this buoy uses the kinematic extension of the variometric approach for displacement analysis stand-alone engine (Kin-VADASE) velocity measurement method, thus eliminating the need for additional high-precision measurement units and an expensive complement of satellite orbital products. Through testing in the South China Sea and Laoshan Bay, the results showed good consistency in significant wave height and main wave direction between the novel buoy and a Datawell DWR-G4, even under mild wind and wave conditions. However, wave mean period disparities were observed partially because of sampling frequency differences. To validate this idea, we used Joint North Sea Wave Project (Jonswap) spectral waves as input signals, the bias characteristics of the mean periods of the spectral calculations were compared under conditions of identical input signals and gradient-distributed wind speeds. Results showed an average difference of 0.28 s between the sampling frequencies of 1.28 Hz and 5 Hz. The consequence that high-frequency signals have considerable effects on the mean wave period calculations indicates the necessity of the buoy’s high-frequency operation mode. This GNSS drifting buoy offers a cost-effective, globally deployable solution for ocean wave measurement. Its potential for large-scale networked ocean wave observation makes it a valuable oceanic research and monitoring instrument.

Asymptotic integrability of nonlinear wave equations.

We introduce the notion of asymptotic integrability into the theory of nonlinear wave equations. It means that the Hamiltonian structure of equations describing propagation of high-frequency wave packets is preserved by hydrodynamic evolution of the large-scale background wave so that these equations have an additional integral of motion. This condition is expressed mathematically as a system of equations for the carrier wave number as a function of the background variables. We show that a solution of this system for a given dispersion relation of linear waves is related to the quasiclassical limit of the Lax pair for the completely integrable equation having the corresponding dispersionless and linear dispersive behavior. We illustrate the theory with several examples.

Broadband large-scale acoustic topological waveguides

The acoustic topological waveguide (ATW) hosting topologically protected waveguide modes provides a unique opportunity for achieving large-scale sound transport with robustness. However, prevailing ATWs are typically designed by forward-designed sonic crystals (SCs) based on physical intuitions, unavoidably leading to restricted bandwidths. Here, using the inverse-designed SCs with maximized topological bandgaps, we construct broadband ATWs based on both the quantum spin Hall effect and the quantum valley Hall effect. Broadband large-scale transportation, spin-locked one-way transportation, and the squeezing effect of acoustic waves are demonstrated. This study ushers a new path for designing topological devices with broadband performance for large-scale acoustic wave transportation.

On the Origin of a Broad Quasiperiodic Fast-propagating Wave Train: Unwinding Jet as the Driver

Large-scale extreme-ultraviolet waves commonly exhibit as single wave front and are believed to be caused by coronal mass ejections. Utilizing high spatiotemporal resolution imaging observations from the Solar Dynamics Observatory, we present two sequentially generated wave trains originating from the same active region: a narrow quasiperiodic fast-propagating (QFP) wave train that propagates along the coronal loop system above the jet and a broad QFP wave train that travels along the solar surface beneath the jet. The measurements indicate that the narrow QFP wave train and the accompanying flare’s quasiperiodic pulsations (QPPs) have nearly identical onsets and periods. This result suggests that the accompanying flare process excites the observed narrow QFP wave train. However, the broad QFP wave train starts approximately 2 minutes before the QPPs of the flare, but it is consistent with the interaction between the unwinding jet and the solar surface. Moreover, we find that the period of the broad QFP wave train, approximately 130 s, closely matches that of the unwinding jet. This period is significantly longer than the 30 s period of the accompanying flare’s QPPs. Based on these findings, we propose that the intermittent energy release of the accompanying flare excited the narrow QFP wave train confined propagating in the coronal loop system. The unwinding jet, rather than the intermittent energy release in the accompanying flare, triggered the broad QFP wave train propagating along the solar surface.

On the three-dimensional structure of instabilities beneath shallow-shoaling internal waves

The stimulation of instability and transport in the bottom boundary layer by internal solitary waves has been documented for over twenty years. However, the challenge of shallow slopes and a disparity of scales between the large-scale wave and the small-scale boundary layer has proven challenging for simulations. We present laboratory scale simulations that resolve the three-dimensionalisation in the boundary layer during the entire shoaling process. We find that the late stage, in which the incoming wave fissions into boluses, provides the most consistent source of three-dimensionalisation. In the early stage of shoaling, three-dimensionalisation occurs not so much due to separation bubble instability, but due to the interaction of vortices shed from the separation bubble with the overlying pycnocline. This interaction overturns the pycnocline, and creates bursts in kinetic energy and viscous dissipation, suggesting that the shed vortices induce turbulent motion and sediment resuspension in the water column above and behind the separation bubble.

Trigger mechanism for a singing cavitating tip vortex

The discrete tone radiated from tip vortex cavitation (TVC), known as ‘vortex singing’, was recognized in 1989, but its triggering remains unclear for over thirty years. In this study, the desinent cavitation number and viscous correction are applied to describe the dynamics of cavitation bubbles and the dispersion relation of cavity interfacial waves. The wavenumber-frequency spectrum of the cavity radius from the experiment in CSSRC indicates that singing waves predominantly consist of the stationary double helical modes (kθ = 2- and -2+) and the breathing mode (kθ = 0-), rather than standing waves as assumed in previous literatures. Moreover, two trigger mechanisms, expressed by two triggering lines, are proposed: the twisted TVC, initially at rest, is driven into motion through the corrected natural frequency (fn) due to the step change of the far-field pressure. Subsequently, the frequency associated with the zero-group-velocity point (ῶzgv) at kθ = 0- is excited through ῶi, the frequency at the intersection of dispersion curves at kθ = 0- and -2+, or ῶj, the frequency at the intersection of dispersion curves at kθ = 0- and 2-, corresponding to two types of the vortex singing triggering. These solutions, without empirical parameters, are validated using singing conditions provided by CSSRC and G.T.H., respectively. Furthermore, the coherence and the cross-power spectral density spectrum indicates a large-scale breathing wave propagating along the singing cavity surface and travelling from downstream to hydrofoil tip, providing us a comprehensive understanding for the triggering of vortex singing.

Horseshoes and spiral waves: capturing the 3D flow induced by a low-mass planet analytically

ABSTRACT The key difficulty faced by 2D models for planet–disc interaction is in appropriately accounting for the impact of the disc’s vertical structure on the dynamics. 3D effects are often mimicked via softening of the planet’s potential; however, the planet-induced flow and torques often depend strongly on the choice of softening length. We show that for a linear adiabatic flow perturbing a vertically isothermal disc, there is a particular vertical average of the 3D equations of motion that exactly reproduces 2D fluid equations for arbitrary adiabatic index. There is a strong connection here with the Lubow–Pringle 2D mode of the disc. Correspondingly, we find a simple, general prescription for the consistent treatment of planetary potentials embedded within ‘2D’ discs. The flow induced by a low-mass planet involves large-scale excited spiral density waves that transport angular momentum radially away from the planet and ‘horseshoe streamlines’ within the coorbital region. We derive simple linear equations governing the flow that locally capture both effects faithfully simultaneously. We present an accurate coorbital flow solution allowing for inexpensive future study of corotation torques, and predict the vertical structure of the coorbital flow and horseshoe region width for different values of adiabatic index, as well as the vertical dependence of the initial shock location. We find strong agreement with the flow computed in 3D numerical simulations, and with 3D one-sided Lindblad torque estimates, which are a factor of 2–3 lower than values from previous 2D simulations.

Joint observations of the large-scale ULF wave activity from space to ground associated with the solar wind dynamic pressure enhancement

Joint observations of the large-scale ULF wave activity from space to ground associated with the solar wind dynamic pressure enhancement

Bar and berm dynamics during transition from dissipative to reflective beach profile

Bar and berm morphology characterize the seasonal beach evolution, and determine the protection against storm erosion as well as the touristic use of beaches. Thus, they are of particular interest for coastal management and engineering in the nearshore zone. This study used large-scale wave flume experiments to observe the transition from fully dissipative to fully reflective beach profile at a high level of detail. Starting from a post-storm profile generated under energetic waves, a very low energy wave condition caused dissipation of the outer and the inner bar, shoreline recovery, and berm accretion. Measurements revealed feedback between hydrodynamics and beach profile evolution with an onshore shift of the wave breaking location. As a result, the magnitude and cross-shore evolution of wave asymmetry-related bedload net onshore and suspended net offshore transport changed. The relative magnitudes of the two transport components and the way they shifted relative to each other caused the observed beach recovery. Additionally, a link between bar and berm morphology (surf-swash sand exchange) was observed. The shifting breakpoint enabled sustained, wave asymmetry-related onshore transport in the inner surf zone, feeding the berm accretion which occurred through advective swash zone processes including berm overwash.

A super-convergent quasi-discontinuous Galerkin method for approximating inertia-gravity and Rossby waves in geophysical flows

The numerical approximation of the shallow-water equations, which support geophysical wave propagation, namely the fast external Poincaré and Kelvin waves and the slow large-scale planetary Rossby waves, is a delicate and difficult problem. Indeed, the coupling between the momentum and the continuity equations may lead to the presence of erratic or spurious solutions for these waves, e.g. the spurious pressure and inertial modes. In addition, the presence of spurious branches and the emergence of spectral gaps in the dispersion relation at specific wavenumbers may lead to anomalous dissipation/dispersion in the representation of both fast and slow waves. The aim of the present study is to propose a class of possible discretization schemes, via the discontinuous Galerkin method, that is not affected by the above-mentioned problems. A Fourier/stability analysis of the 2D shallow-water model is performed by analysing the finite volume method and the linear discontinuous P1DG and non conforming P1NC Galerkin discretizations. These are stabilized by means of a family of numerical fluxes via the Polynomial Viscosity Matrix approach. A long time stability result is proven for all schemes and fluxes examined here. Further, a super-convergent result is demonstrated for the P1NC discrete frequencies compared to the P1DG ones, except for the slow mode in the Roe flux case. Indeed, we show that the Roe flux yields spurious frequencies and sub-optimal rates of convergence for the slow mode, for both the P1DG and P1NC methods. Finally, numerical solutions of linear and non-linear test problems confirm the theoretical results and reveal the computational cost efficiency of the P1NC approach.

Wave–structure interaction by a two–way coupling between a fully nonlinear potential flow model and a Navier–Stokes solver

A two-way domain decomposition coupling procedure between a fully nonlinear potential flow model and a Navier–Stokes solver capturing the free surface with a Volume of Fluid method is used to study wave–structure interaction applied to offshore wind turbines. Away from the structure, the large-scale inviscid wave field is modeled by the potential code. Wave generation and absorption in this 3D hybrid model take place in the outer potential domain. The codes exchange data in the region around their common boundaries. Through the two-way coupling, waves propagate in and out of the viscous subdomain, making the hybrid algorithm suitable to study wave diffraction on marine structures, while keeping the viscous subdomain small. Each code uses its own mesh and time step. Subdomains are overlapping, therefore continuity conditions on velocity and free surface have to be verified on two distinct coupling surfaces at any time. Parallel implementation with communications between the models relying on the Message Passing Interface library allows calculations on large spatial and temporal scales. The coupling algorithm is first tested for regular nonlinear waves and then applied to simulate wave loads exerted on a vertical monopile in 3D. Attention is paid to the high-order components of the horizontal force.

Invertebrate Responses to Large- and Small-Scale Drivers in Coastal Phragmites australis Beds in the Northern Baltic Sea

Phragmites australis is a common helophyte, covering much of the sheltered and shallow soft bottoms along the coasts of the Baltic Sea. Despite the expansion of P. australis over the past decades, there is little information on aquatic macroinvertebrates within P. australis beds. In this study, we examined the effect of large-scale (wave exposure, nutrients) and small-scale (distance from the seaward edge, live and dead stalk density, epiphyte and rhizome biomass) drivers on the density, taxa richness, diversity, and community structure of epifauna and infauna in monospecific P. australis beds around the Åland Islands and the Archipelago Sea. We found that higher wave exposure and nutrient levels generally supported higher epi- and infauna abundance and taxa richness. The effects on Shannon–Wiener diversity were less evident apart from an increase of the infauna diversity in the Archipelago Sea with increasing nutrient levels. On a local scale, the distance from the seaward edge, live and dead stalk density, and epiphyte biomass had varying effects on both epi- and infauna communities in the different regions. Rhizome biomass had no effect on either the epi- or infauna abundance, taxa richness, or diversity. Furthermore, according to existing studies, other habitats, e.g., Zostera marina meadows, Fucus vesiculosus belts, and vegetated soft-bottomed shallow bays, are generally characterized by more abundant fauna, except for the infauna, which had a higher density in P. australis beds than in vegetated soft-bottomed shallow bays. P. australis are a widespread, expanding, and understudied habitat with an important role in supporting coastal biodiversity.

Assessment of Gravity Waves From Tropopause to Thermosphere and Ionosphere in High‐Resolution WACCM‐X Simulations

AbstractA new version of NCAR Whole Atmosphere Community Climate Model with thermosphere/ionosphere extension (WACCM‐X) has been developed. The main feature of this version is the species‐dependent spectral element (SE) dynamical core solved on a cubed sphere grid, eliminating the polar singularity and enabling simulations at high‐resolutions. Molecular viscosity and diffusion in the horizontal direction are also included. The Conservative Semi‐Lagrangian Multi‐Tracer Transport Scheme (CSLAM) is employed for the species transport. An efficient regridding scheme based on the Earth System Modeling Framework is used to map fields between the physics mesh and geomagnetic grid. Simulations have been performed at coarse (∼200 km and 0.25 scale height) and high (∼25 km and 0.1 scale height) resolutions. Spatial distribution of the resolved gravity waves from the high‐resolution simulations compares well with available observations in the middle and upper atmosphere. Analysis of the scale dependence of the gravity wave energy density and momentum flux shows that, while larger scale waves are dominant energetically at most latitudes, smaller scale waves contribute significantly to the total momentum flux, especially at mid‐high latitudes. The waves in the thermosphere are shown to be strongly modulated by the large‐scale wind through Doppler shift and molecular damping, and they cause large neutral atmosphere and plasma perturbations.

Impact of focused wave groups on pier structures: a case study of severe breaking waves at Pont del Petroli during storm Gloria

In January 2020, the footbridge connecting the seaward platform of the Pont del Petroli pier to Badalona beach collapsed due to the severe sea storm named Gloria. Approximately 15 m of the footbridge fell into the sea as a result of prolonged wave action and strong impacts. To understand the complex interaction between waves and structures that led to the pier’s collapse during the storm, a composite modelling approach was developed. The loads on each pier element were initially evaluated using the meshless DualSPHysics code, which employs the Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method. This evaluation was conducted under severe wave conditions analogous to those experienced during the storm. Numerical models informed the design of an experimental campaign carried out at the Maritime Engineering Laboratory of Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya—BarcelonaTech, using the CIEM large-scale wave flume facility in Barcelona, Spain. Post-storm bathymetric surveys revealed significant alterations in the seabed profile near the affected infrastructure, including sediment deposition and a reduction in water depth from 10 m to 8 m. Consequently, it was anticipated that wave transformation and breaking in the vicinity of the structure would be substantially affected. To explore this phenomenon, various extreme wave impacts were experimentally simulated using focused wave groups. The physical model findings unveiled the forces that the pier endured during the storm Gloria. The results indicate that wave phases influence individual waves, with waves that are biased and asymmetric experiencing higher peaks than those focused on the crest. This insight helps to explain the structural failure of the footbridge during the storm and underscores the importance of considering wave phase impacts in the design and assessment of coastal infrastructure. The combined numerical and experimental approach provides a comprehensive understanding of the forces at play, contributing valuable knowledge to the field of coastal engineering and infrastructure resilience.

Numerical Study of the Force Characteristics and Flow Field Patterns of a Cylinder in the Internal Solitary Wave

The density of the ocean is unevenly distributed along the depth direction, showing a stratified structure. When there is an external disturbance, large-scale internal solitary waves are easily generated. The internal solitary waves are bounded by the intermediate pycnocline, and the currents in the upper and lower layers will flow in opposite directions. This generates strong shear forces that threaten the safety of marine structures. In this paper, the flow field distribution characteristics of a cylinder under the action of internal solitary waves at different scales are analyzed as a research object. The whole cylinder is discretized into 40 regions, and the horizontal force applied to each section of the cylinder is extracted. The force characteristics of the cylinder are analyzed. It is concluded that the pressure is the main factor determining the magnitude of the total combined force. In addition, the paper extracts the main flow structures from the modal decomposition point of view and explains the reasons affecting the force behavior of the cylinder.

Large‐Scale Wave‐Driven Interactions and Plasma‐Neutral Coupling in the Low‐Latitude Ionosphere‐Thermosphere

AbstractThe plasma and neutral density variations, interactions and coupling processes within ±30° latitudes are examined concurrently by the DMSP‐F18 and Swarm‐C satellite during geomagnetically quiet years in 2020–2021. The wavenumber (WN) patterns are computed in the form of neutral and electron density for two altitudes and their latitudinal profiles are analyzed. We observe that the WN1 structure of the electron density has a significant seasonal dependence in the topside ionosphere and dominates all other structures but WN2 neutral density amplitude dominates all other structures in the middle thermosphere (∼440 km). Additionally, we analyze vertical‐temporal‐latitudinal tidal structures from the Climatological Tidal Model of the Thermosphere (CTMT) to find evidence for the modulation of the large‐scale waves (LSWs) neutral density structures. Through the examination of the in situ observational and modeling approaches, we show that the tidal contributors of WN structures obtained from CTMT can capture the influence of terrestrial sources on the WN structures of plasma‐neutral density and imprint the corresponding vertical coupling in the IT system. Correlation analysis reveals that the amplitudes of the WN1 and WN3 structures of electron density in topside ionosphere and those of neutral density in the middle thermosphere show intermittent but significant correlations with each other, unlike the WN2 and WN4 structures. This study provides new insights into the topside ionospheric response to wave driving in the lower atmosphere, which ultimately improves our capability to understand the interaction and vertical coupling of large‐scale structures, thereby advancing our predictive capabilities of space weather critical for satellite operations.

Investigation of Atmospheric Anomalies due to the Great Tohoku Earthquake Disturbance Using NRLMSISE-00 Atmospheric Model Measurement

In this study, the atmospheric changes for the 9.0-magnitude Tohoku earthquake, which occurred on March 11, 2011, are analyzed. The March 11, 2011 earthquake was preceded by a large foreshock on March 09, 2011 with magnitude M 7.3 and depth 32 km at 02:45:20 UT near the east coast of Honshu, Japan. The earthquake doesn’t limit its effects on the Earth’s lithosphere, hydrosphere and biosphere; it also extends its effects to the atmosphere because of the gas emissions, which produce large-scale seismic waves from the ground and release gases into the atmosphere. In this study, the anomalies of the atmospheric parameters are studied by using one of the atmospheric models from the Naval Research Laboratory Mass Spectrometer Incoherent Scatter Extension 2000 (NRLMSISE-00) model data to analyze the atmospheric anomalies of the Tohoku Earthquake on March 11, 2011. The atmospheric parameters of atomic oxygen (O), hydrogen (H), atomic nitrogen (N), helium (He), argon (Ar), molecular oxygen (O2), molecular nitrogen (N2), total mass density (ρ), neutral temperature (Tn), exospheric temperature (Tex) and anomalous oxygen (AO) are used for analysis during the earthquake occurrence. The epicenter of the Tohoku earthquake, with a geographical location of latitude 38.30° N and longitude 142.37° E, is used for the NRLMSISE-00 model as input parameters to analyze the output of atmospheric parameters. To compare the atmospheric changes caused by the earthquake, 5 days before and after the earthquake are considered. To detect where the atmospheric parameters increased or decreased from the earthquake day, the percentage deviation of the NRLMSISE-00 model is applied. The results indicate that there were atmospheric parameter anomalies that occurred a few days before, following and during the earthquake on March 11, 2011. Except for hydrogen (H), all atmospheric parameters average daily percentage deviation values were positive during the 5 days before and after with respect to the main earthquake shock on March 11, 2011. The NRLMSISE-00 model can capture the atmospheric parameter anomalies of the Tohoku earthquake well.

Emergence of large-scale mechanical spiral waves in bacterial living matter

Emergence of large-scale mechanical spiral waves in bacterial living matter

Study of Velocity Changes Induced by Posidonia oceanica Surrogate and Sediment Transport Implications

An analysis of the interactions between wave-induced velocities and seagrass meadows has been conducted based on the large-scale CIEM wave flume data. Incident irregular wave trains act on an initial 1:15 sand beach profile with measurement stations from the offshore of a surrogate meadow until the outer breaking zone, after crossing the seagrass meadow. The analysis considers variability and peaks of velocities, together with their skewness and asymmetry, to determine the effects of the seagrass meadow on the near bed sediment transport. Velocity variability was characterized by the standard deviation, and the greatest changes were found in the area right behind the meadow. In this zone, the negative peak velocities decreased by up to 20.3%, and the positive peak velocities increased by up to 11.7%. For more onshore positions, the negative and positive peak velocities similarly decreased and increased in most of the studied stations. A progressive increase in skewness as the waves passed through the meadow, together with a slight decrease in asymmetry, was observed and associated with the meadow effect. Moving shoreward along the profile, the values of skewness and asymmetry increased progressively relative to the position of the main sandbar. The megaripple-like bedforms appeared earlier when the meadow was present due to the higher skewness, showing a belated development in the layout without the meadow, when skewness increased further offshore due to the proximity of the breaker sandbar. To assess the sediment transport capacity of a submerged meadow, the SANTOSS formula was applied, showing that in front of the meadow, there was a higher sediment transport capacity, whereas behind the meadow, that capacity could be reduced by up to 41.3%. In addition, this formula was able to produce a suitable estimate of sediment transport across the profile, although it could not properly estimate the sediment volumes associated with the bedforms generated in the profile.