KES-FB System Research Articles

메탈릭 자카드 직물 물리적 성능평가

The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women`s suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.

Air-jet 직기 특성이 감성 교직물의 촉감에 미치는 영향

The hand of the sensitive mixture fabrics was analysed and discussed with measured mechanical properties of two kinds of woven fabrics according to the characteristics of air-jet loom. The 16 mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface were measured using KES-FB system and their differences of the mechanical properties between domestic and foreign looms were analysed with the deviation according to the position of the specimen. And also these mechanical properties according to the domestic and Japan air-jet looms were analysed and discussed with warp and weft insertion tensions during weaving. This research is aiming to make a data base of fabric mechanical properties and, these analysed data are given to weaver as a basic research data related to the effects of loom characteristics to the sensitive mixture fabrics required from weaving fields.

Characteristics of sounds generated from vapor permeable water repellent fabrics by low-speed frictions

To investigate the sound properties by low-speed frictions (0.2 m/s and 0.5 m/s) which occur when two fabrics are rubbed by wearer’s slow movement, six specimens are selected by cluster analysis among seventy-one vapor permeable water repellent fabrics for outdoor sportswear. Their sound spectra are obtained from the FFT analysis. Physical sound properties (LPT, ΔL, Δf) and Zwicker’s psychoacoustic parameters-loudness(Z), sharpness(Z), roughness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z)-are calculated from the sound spectra. Mechanical properties of the fabrics are measured with the KES-FB system. The amplitudes of the sound spectra of all the specimens at 0.5 m/s are higher than those at 0.2 m/s throughout the entire range of frequencies. As the frictional speed changed from 0.2 m/s to 0.5 m/s, the LPT increases about 16 dB, and the loudness(Z) and fluctuation strength(Z) increase about 3 times and 2 times, respectively. The SMD and Weight at the two low frictional speeds are the important factors which affect the sound properties of vapor permeable water repellent fabrics.

춘추용 생활한복 소재의 태에 관한 연구

The purpose of this study is to examine the hand of spring/fall fabrics for `Saenghwal Hanbok` on subjective hand, objective hand and the preference. In this study, 28 varieties of spring/fall fabrics such as cotton fabrics, synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric for `Saenghwal Hanbok` are used. To evaluate the subjective hand of fabrics, the holistic touch and preferences, 33 seven ranks` segmentic differential scale questions are developed with adjective pairs and are gathered by surveying experts on clothes. The mechanical properties, HV and THV of them are measured and calculated by KES-FB system. Through subjective hand, items could be classified into six hand expressions: `bulky/extensibility`, `stiffness`, `feeling of weight`, `surface property`, `drapability` and `moisture property`. Through mechanical properties, the results indicated that the character of cotton fabrics are slight flexible, tough, rough, uneven, a bit heavy, thick and low resilience on tensile and compression, and then those of synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric are thin and light, smooth, flat and bulkless. In correlation on subjective evaluations and the preference for `Saenghwal Hanbok`, cotton fabrics mainly depend on `surface property` and `moisture property` and then synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk depend on `bulky/extensibility` and `surface property` In correlation on objective hand and the preference for `Saenghwal Hanbok`. people aren`t satisfied with low resilience. high stiffness and low drape.

Surface Roughness Measurement of Nonwovens Using Three-dimensional Profile Data

The surface friction property changes of nonwovens under repetitive abrasions were observed. Surface data were acquired using a three-dimensional noncontact camera and fractal dimensions were calculated to evaluate surface roughness. The fractal dimension showed a tendency to increase with the number of abrasions. They were compared with surface friction values measured by the KES-FB system [ Textile Res. J. 58(3), 129—136, 1988]. Pilling on the nonwoven surface prohibited accurate surface roughness measurement, so they were detected using high-pass filtering of the surface data. The method needs instant measurement time and is highly objective, and therefore it is suitable for real-time on-line manufacturing systems.

Investigation of the effect of continuous finishing on the mechanical properties and the handle of wool fabrics

The effect of scouring, bleaching and dyeing on the low stress mechanical and surface properties of wool woven fabrics was studied. Fabric properties were measured by the KES-FB system. In general, mechanical properties of the treated fabrics are greatly affected by scouring, moderately by dyeing and least by bleaching.

Investigating the Plasma Modification of Natural Fiber Fabrics-The Effect on Fabric Surface and Mechanical Properties

Following previous work [ Textile Research Journal, 74,751-756 (2004)], the mechanical and surface properties and handle of wool and cotton fabrics were measured using the KES-FB system after different stages of treatment. This investigation shows that the mechanical properties of wool and cotton changed remarkably after oxygen plasma treatment. There were no significantly observed differences between plasma treated and untreated fabrics after wet scouring and dyeing.

Predicting Mechanical Properties and Hand Values from the Parameters of Weave Structures

In this study, mechanical properties and hand values are predicted from the parameters of weave structures. To promote the design of woven fabrics, we can define the crossing-over firmness factor (CFF) and the floating yarn factor (FYF) as the parameters of the weave structures for predicting mechanical properties and hand values. Both the CFF and FYF are related to some mechanical parameters and primary hand. Multiple regression equations of mechanical parameters and hand values are derived from those parameters of weave structures, and the predicted values almost exactly agree with the measured values from the KES-FB system.

Visual Evaluation of Apparel Silhouette Using Virtual Sewing System

In this study, we conducted a sensory test of visual evaluation using the silhouette generated from virtual sewing system to investigate the relationship between the visual image of blouse and the physical properties of blouse fabrics. 17 blouse fabrics of white color were selected as samples. The physical properties of fabrics were measured using KES-FB system, and 17 blouses were made from these fabrics. Images of blouse silhouette were generated by virtual sewing system using measured data of fabric physical properties. The sensory test of visual evaluation of blouse silhouette using generated images was conducted and the results were compared to those of real blouse and fabrics. The results of sensory test were analyzed using SD method and cluster analysis. The results obtained are as follows.(1) The blouse samples are divided into two clusters, and sporty.(2) The elegant factor in design image has good correlation with physical properties of fabrics.(3) In the case of simple shirts group, the design images for silhouette agree well among fabric, real blouse and image levels.(4) In the case of visual evaluation using generated images, the silhouette of blouse and its design images are directly affected by the physical properties of fabrics.(5) Visual evaluation in terms of design images to the same sample group is reversed between generated images and real blouse.

Approaches to Discriminate the Characteristic Generic Hand of Fabrics

Discriminating between the hand of different fabrics is an important issue in the textile industry. This study focuses on the approaches to discriminate between fabrics with different characteristic generic hands. Four groups of woven fabrics from cotton, linen, wool, and silk are the fabric types in this study. Discriminant analysis and the neural network method are used to characterize and discriminate between the different fabric groups. The parameters for analysis are selected using a stepwise method from sixteen mechanical properties based on the KES-FB system. The results show that cotton, linen, wool, and silk groups of fabric can be characterized and discriminated by discriminant analysis and the neural network method with a 100% classification accuracy rate. There are fewer parameters with the neural network method than with the Fisher and canonical discriminant functions.

Objective Hand Measurement of Toilet Paper

This study investigates the objective hand evaluation of the toilet paper based on the mechanical and surface properties. The objective hand evaluation system for men's suiting was applied to assess the hand of toilet paper. Three primary hand values (stiffness, smoothness, and fullness) for the toilet paper were obtained using the same equations as the men's suiting equations (KN101W series) with minor modification. The objective hand value (Total hand value, THV) of the toilet paper was derived using the general nonwovens equation (KN5LNW). The subjective hand of the toilet papers was assessed by fifty-four females, and the mechanical and surface parameters were measured with the KES-FB system. It became clear that the hand of the toilet paper could be predicted by the equation KN5LNW, for which the calculated error was within the range of the standard deviation of the subjective hand value of each product. Toilet papers with a small value of the mean deviation of the coefficient of friction (MMD) were estimated to provide good hand.

Objective Hand Measurement of Nonwoven Fabrics Used for the Top Sheets of Disposable Diapers

This study investigates the objective hand evaluation of top sheet materials used for disposable diapers based on their mechanical and surface properties. Previous experience has shown that a system for men's suiting is also useful for other materials, so we have used this system to assess the hand of top sheet nonwovens in terms of three primary hand values (stiffness, smoothness, and fullness). The equations for the men's suiting hand are modified such that each of the mechanical parameters substituted into these equations is normalized by using the respective mean value and standard deviation of the top sheet nonwoven population. The objective hand value of the top sheets is derived using both the men's suiting and general nonwovens equations. The subjective hand of the top sheets is assessed by students, and the mechanical and surface parameters are measured with the KES-FB system. It is clear that the hand of the top sheet nonwovens can be predicted by the equation developed for general nonwovens, for which the calculated error is within the range of the standard deviation of the subjective hand value of each product. Correlations between the hand of the disposable diapers and calculated hand of its top sheet nonwoven are also examined. The primary hand value of smoothness of the top sheets serves as a useful indicator for estimating the diaper's hand.

Characteristics of Rustling Sounds Created by the Structure of Polyester Warp Knitted Fabrics

The rustling sounds of seven samples are recorded in order to determine the sound characteristics of polyester warp knitted fabrics according to construction type. Physical sound parameters (LPT, ΔL, Δf, ARC) and Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters of loudness ( z), sharpness ( z), roughness ( z ), and fluctuation strength ( z) are calculated from sound spectra obtained from FIT analysis. In addition, the KES-FB system is used to measure the mechanical properties. The sharkskin stitch fabrics have the highest LPT, Δf, ARC, loudness ( z), and fluctuation strength ( z) values, followed by the double denbigh and reverse locknit stitch fabrics. The open lap is louder, sharper, and has a larger fluctuation strength than the closed lap in stitch formation. LPT, Δf, ARC, loudness ( z), roughness ( z), and fluctuation strength ( z) of the parallel direction have higher values than those in the counter direction in lapping formation between the back and front bar. Changes in the mutual guide bar movement from counter to parallel are more effective at making a warp knitted fabric's sound louder than the lapping form change from closed to open lap.

Objective and Subjective Analysis of Knitted Fabric Bagging

In this study, fabric bagging tests are performed on a set of knitted fabrics that vary in design, tightness factor, and blend ratio. The relationships between residual bagging height ( Rresidual) obtained from the fabric bagging test and the mechanical characterization determined from the KES-FB system are presented and discussed. The work shows that it is possible to predict R residual for knitted fabrics by using the standard KES-FB test and without performing fabric bagging fatigue tests.

Comparison of Total Hand of Single Knitted Fabrics Made from lincLITE® and Conventional Wool Yarns

Two sets of single wool weft-knitted fabrics made from conventional yarn and lin cLITE®, which was developed by the Wool Research Organization of New Zealand in an effort to make a softer and bulkier wool, are used to analyze a total hand evaluation model for outerwear knitted fabrics. Mechanical properties and total hand value are measured on the KES-FB system, and three kinds of fuzzy membership functions (a decreasing half- Cauchy equation and two linear functions, increasing or decreasing) are used to calculate fuzzified overall hand values of the knitted fabrics. The weighted factor vectors surveyed by a Korean panel are strongly related to those of a New Zealand panel. Based on these surveys, we calculate the total hand value of the KES-FB and the fuzzy model. The latter results show that the bulkiness of single wool fabric knitted from lincLITE yarn is a little higher than the same fabric knitted from conventional yarn. Furthermore, the fuzzy total hand evaluation from the Korean panel is highly correlated with the result of the New Zealanders.

Comparison between KES-FB and FAST in Discrimination of Fabric Characteristics

In order to provide a basis for parameter setting during the process of making man-made fiber fabrics as imitations of natural fibers fabrics, to understand characteris tics of natural fiber fabrics and to establish discriminant methods for such characteristics have become important subjects in the textile industry nowadays. By applying discriminant analysis and neural network, I have successfully used fabric physical properties measured by KES-FB system and FAST system to establish discriminant models for fabric characteristics of cotton, linen, wool and silk. KES-FB discriminant model that applied fabric mechanical properties appeared to have a better classification ability than FAST discriminant model. On the other hand, the discriminant model established by applying neural network appeared to have a better classification ability than that by applying discriminant analysis. While only 9 and 5 physical properties of fabrics measured by KES-FB system and FAST system, respectively, needed to be applied, the discriminant model established by applying stepwise method should possess the characteristics of simplicity, convenience and effectiveness.

Objective Evaluation Model of Visual Elegance of Swirl Skirts

The elegant impression of swirl skirts has been well received by most ladies, yet the textile industry does not have an objective method of evaluating the visual elegance of swirl skirt by grades. In the present study we there for use fabric mechanical properties through the KES-FB system to predict the elegance of swirl skirt manufactured that is to create a method for objectively evaluating visual elegance of swirl skirt by grades. From the study it is found there is a notable correlation between fabric mechanical properties and the visual elegance of swirl skirt by grades. It can also establish a objective evaluation model of visual elegance of swirl skirt by grades basing on the regression method using several key fabric mechanical properties, in which the said models pass the fitting test with results exceeding 0.80. In addition, in the present study we use stepwise regression selection method to pick out the most significant key factors (bending rigidity and shear hysteresis at 0.5°) affecting the visual elegance of swirl skirt by grades and then reapplies the regression method successfully thus establishing a method only using two fabric mechanical properties for objective evaluation of the visual elegance of swirl skirt by grades, in a more simple and objective manner.

Physiological Responses Evoked by Fabric Sounds and Related Mechanical and Acoustical Properties

This study is performed to determine the characteristics of fabric sounds and the mechanical properties to predict their auditory comfort. In order to obtain quantitative information about emotional changes evoked by fabric sounds, physiological signals are acquired and analyzed when each fabric sound is presented to participants. Physiological parameters employed in this study are electroencephalogram and autonomic nervous system activities, including photoplethysmogram (PPG), skin conductance level (SCL), and the ratio of low frequency to high frequency (LF/HF) from the power spectrum of heart rate variability. As sound parameters, the pressure level of total sound (LPT), loudness(z), and sharpness(z) are calculated. Mechanical properties of the fabrics are measured with the KES-FB system. Bending hysteresis and weight. reflect negative sensations, influencing slow alpha, LF/HF, and SCL. Among sound parameters, LPT, loudness(z), and sharpness(z) influence negative sensations, causing the increment of SCL and LF/HF with the decrement of slow alpha and PPG.

Thermal Adaptability and Hand of Wool Fabric Treated with High Molecular Weight Polyethylene Glycol and a Softener

The aim of this study is to enhance the thermal adaptability of wool fabric by a treatment with high molecular weight polyethylene glycol (PEG-8000), and to improve the PEG-finished fabric's hand by treatment with a softener. Using the pad-dry-cure method, the fabric is treated in aqueous baths with 20-45% owb concentrations of PEG and 8.0-9.0% DMDHEU, resulting in 12-38% PEG add-ons proportional to the PEG concentrations. Subsequently, using the pad-cure method, the fabric is treated in aqueous solutions with 2-6% owb softener concentrations. Thermal adaptability, measured by heat of fusion and crystallization on a DSC, improves as PEG add-on increases. The PEG-treated fabric is stiffer and less smooth, soft, and full than when untreated, according to measurements with the KES-FB system. The PEG-treated fabric's thermal storage and release are 30-60% lower after softening, but the hand improves. Optimum conditions for maximizing thermal adaptability and achieving a hand equivalent to the untreated fabric are 45% PEG-8000/9.0% DMDHEU in the finishing bath and 6% softener solution concentration.

Selecting Optimal Interlinings with a Neural Network

This paper reports on the construction of an integrated tool consisting of a neural network and subjoined local approximation technique for application to the sewing process, especially for selecting optimal interlinings for woolen fabrics. A single hidden layer neural network is constructed with five input nodes, ten hidden nodes, and two output nodes. To train the network with a back-propagation learning algorithm, the mechanical parameters used as inputs for the fabrics are tensile energy, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, shear stiffness, and shear hysteresis, while mechanical parameters used as outputs for the interlinings are bending rigidity and shear stiffness, all of which are measured on the KES-FB system. Even though the back-propagation algorithm has a higher learning accuracy and can be successfully used to select the appropriate interlining, its learning process is too slow and it gets stuck in a local minimum. This research presents a few methods for improving the efficiency of the learning process. The raw data from the KES-FB system are nonlinearly normalized, and input orders are randomized. This proce dure produces a good result, such that the error values of the prediction model are low despite the relatively small data set for training. After training, the optimal interlinings for unknown fabrics can be correctly selected through mapping and the local approximation method.