KES-FB System Research Articles

Mechanical Characteristics and Antibiosis of Sized Fabrics with Bletilla striata

Bletilla striata is an important herb that is used as a paste for texture processing, an ingredient in incense and an additive for pre- serving calligraphic works and paintings. This study evaluated Bletilla striata, which has been used to preserve and manage the textiles and paper. In particular, this study examined the viscosity of a paste made from Bletilla striata, as well as the mechanical characteristics and anti- biotic properties of the fabrics treated with the herb. In terms of vis- cosity, Bletilla striata paste was less sticky than wheat flour paste, meaning that the former can be applied more evenly to sized fabrics. In addition, Bletilla striata paste has high transparence, ensuring little color difference between the fabrics treated and not treated with the paste. Regarding the mechanical characteristics of the fabrics proc- essed using the KES-FB System, the sized fabrics treated with Bletilla striata paste showed a higher flexibility and recovery rate and than those treated with the wheat flour paste, indicating that the former paste can be more effective in making fabrics maintain their original form and shape. Finally, silk fabrics treated with Bletilla striata showed very high antibiosis. This suggests that the paste can be used to develop anti- biotic substances that can preserve textiles.

An investigation of continuous finishing and dyeing on the mechanical properties and handle of cotton fabrics

In this paper, the effect of continuous finishing-desizing, scouring, bleaching and dyeing of woven cotton fabrics on the low stress mechanical and surface properties has been studied. The cotton fabric properties were measured by the famous KES-FB system. The handle of the finished fabrics were calculated by the handle evaluation programme. The results showed that the mechanical properties changed significantly by the desizing and gradually by the scouring, bleaching and dyeing processes.

Cotton fabric mechanical properties affected by post-finishing processes

Following the work done previously [1]. In this paper, the effect of various post-finishing agents on the low stress mechanical and surface properties of dyed cotton fabrics, as well as their handle value have been studied. The mechanical properties of the treated cotton fabrics were measured by the famous KES-FB system. It has been found that cotton fabric mechanical properties and fabric handle can be modified by not only the external finishing agents but also the internal finishing agents which are used for correcting the inherent defect of the fabrics. The results in this report will inform the textile industry in engineering required fabric properties with appropriate finishing processes.

니트 소재의 질감 평가와 호감도 -인타샤와 칼라자카드를 중심으로-

This study provided the data for the planning of knit apparel by analyzing structural effects of intarsia and jacquard knit on mechanical properties, subjective hand measurements, and preference. Intarsia and 7 types of color jacquard (floating jacquard, normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, and transfer jacquard) were used. The samples (with a gauge of 14) were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by a Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. Mechanical properties and hand values were measured by a KES-FB system. Subjective hand and favorable images were surveyed based on women in their 20s and 30s. The data were analyzed by a factor analysis, ANOVA and correlation analysis using SPSS 12.0. The subjective hand of intarsia and jacquard knits was categorized into 'thermofeeling', 'weight/flexibility', and 'durability'. The results of the favorable image survey for F/W outer knitwear showed that tubular jacquard was most favorable; however, the transfer jacquard was least favorable. Among the three factors that explain the subjective hand, thermofeeling had a strong influence on the favorable image of consumers. Bird's eye jacquard and tubular jacquard turned out to be most suitable for suits, intarsia and floating jacquard were suitable for cardigans and sweaters, ladder's back jacquard was suitable for hats or mufflers, and transfer jacquard was suitable for home fashion rather than garments.

Tencel FR/Cotton 복합원단의 물리적 특성 및 난연성에 관한 연구

This study analyzed the physical properties and flame retardancy of Tencel FR/Cotton complex knit fabrics in order to satisfy two aspects of eco-friendliness and functionality. The flame retardant (FR) treat- ment of complex knit fabrics was applied by a pad-dry-cure method for additional functionality. Tensile strength, extension, bursting strength, LOI, and flame retardancy were measured by the KS (Korean Stan- dard) K manual. The hand value knit fabrics were measured by KES-FB system. Subsequently, tensile strength and extension of wale and tensile strength of course increased in tandem with the Tencel FR yarn content. Tencel FR/Cotton complex knit fabrics were suitable for summer-weight and for baby clothes through the KES-FB system measurements. The bursting strength of Tencel FR/Cotton complex knit fab- rics decreased as the contents of the Tencel FR increased; in addition, LOI increased as the contents of Tencel FR increased. This was due to the Tencel FR flame resistance function; however, the tensile strength decreased. The optimum fiber content of Tencel FR/cotton content was 1:1. The optimum conditions of flame retardant treatment were a treatment temperature 130 o C and the concentration of finishing agent and assistance binder (AR4260) was 35% and 1%, respectively.

리싸이클 폴리에스터 니트 소재의 물리적 성질 및 태 평가

With regards to environmental conservation, it is necessary to promote an eco-friendly industry and to recycle wastes. In this study, the physical properties and hand values of material recycled PET knit fabrics prepared with various recycled PET yarns were investigated. Bursting strengths of 3 recycled PET knit fabrics were higher than that of regular PET knit fabric. 3 Recycled PET knit fabrics were more flexible than those of the regular PET knit fabric. Lightness of regular PET knit fabric was the highest among the 5 samples. Fabric knitted with recycled non-circular PET yarns had a more yellowish tinge. Mechanical properties were measured using the KES-FB system. Bending properties, shear properties, weight, and thickness were increased in recycled PET knit fabrics. The compressional linearity and energy of 3 recycled PET knit fabrics increased. However, their compressional resilience was reduced. In addition, coefficients of friction were similar. Regular PET knit fabric demonstrated a smooth appearance. Numeri was the highest in the hand values.

Analysis of acoustic characteristics of fabrics in terms of mechanical properties

The purpose of this study was to classify various fabrics into some meaningful groups and to predict the fabrics’ acoustic characteristics using their mechanical properties. Two hundred seventeen fabrics, fifty one knitted fabrics, fifty nine woven fabrics and one hundred and seven vapor permeable water repellent fabrics, were used as test specimen. Fabric frictional sounds of the specimen were measured with a MAFN(Measuring Apparatus for Fabric Noise, Patent: No, 2001-73360). Sound Pressure Level(SPL), psychoacoustic parameters such as Loudness(z) and Sharpness(z) of the specimen were obtained by the sound quality system. KES-FB system was used for mechanical property measurements. Cluster analysis was used to classify the specimen and discriminant analysis was used to predict the clusters. Linear regression analysis was used to suggest the equations to predict the acoustic properties using mechanical properties.

Prediction of bending rigidity for laminated fabric with adhesive interlining by a laminate model considering tensile and in-plane compressive moduli

The purpose of this study is to predict bending rigidity of laminated fabric with adhesive interlining considered tensile and in-plane compressive moduli. The predicting method considering those moduli was proposed by theoretical derivation based on laminate model. Tensile and in-plane compressive moduli of neutral surface for face fabric and adhesive interlining respectively before laminating and modulus for bending rigidity were considered independently. The calculating equation for in-plane compressive modulus was proposed from the relationship between bending rigidities and tensile properties. The proposed predicting method was verified experimentally. Bending rigidities, tensile properties and thicknesses of adhesive interlinings, face fabrics and laminated fabrics with adhesive interlinings were measured by KES-FB system. The in-plane compressive moduli of adhesive interlinings were calculated by the proposed equation with the results of tensile properties for face fabrics. With the results of tensile and in-plane compressive moduli, the bending rigidities of laminated fabric with adhesive interlinings were calculated. The predicted bending rigidities considered with measured tensile properties and calculated in-plane compressive moduli were precisely closer to experimental results than the ones of the laminated model from our previous study. Therefore, this model gives a new way to predict bending rigidity of laminated fabric with adhesive interlining.

The Evaluation of Fabric Prickle Based on BP Neural Network

A three-layer BP neural network model was established by relating subjective evaluation of fabric prickle level and 16 objective parameters from KES-FB system. The elastic gradient decrease method was adopted for network training to achieve the preset precision of the model which was later applied to fabric prickle level evaluation. Results from this method gave a considerably accuracy compared with actual subjective results which implied a compatibility between BP neural network and traditional subjective evaluation.

Minimizing frictional sound of PU-Nanoweb and PTFE film laminated vapor permeable water repellent fabrics

To investigate sound characteristics of PU-Nanoweb (NW) and PTFE film (PTFE) laminated vapor permeable water repellent fabrics, their frictional sounds by walking, jogging, and running speeds were recorded and sound characteristics such as SPL, loudness (Z), sharpness (Z), roughness (Z), and fluctuation strength (Z) were calculated. Mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. SPL and fluctuation strength (Z) were significantly increased by increasing speed. Roughness (Z) was generated to be the highest by jogging and running speeds. However, sharpness (Z) was decreased by increasing speeds. NW had significantly lower SPL, loudness (Z), but had higher roughness (Z) than PTFE. NW significantly had less B (bending rigidity), G (shear stiffness), WC (compressional energy), and W (weight). These distinctions influenced the sound characteristics to have the different sound between NW and PTFE. The sound would be low by controlling the mechanical properties and laminated nanoweb and film conditions. The crucial factors were RC and laminated nanoweb and film weight to minimize SPL and loudness (Z) of NW and PTFE at all speeds.

Mechanical properties and tactile sensation of naturally colored organic cotton fabrics

This study was carried out to investigate mechanical properties of naturally colored organic cotton (NaCOC) fabrics, to evaluate tactile sensory perceptions, and finally to identify the related mechanical parameters with the sensory perceptions. Two species, coyote-brown and green NaCOC fiber, commercially available, were selected and woven into plain and twill fabrics. Seventeen mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. Then, primary hand value (PHV) and total hand value (THV) were calculated by KN-203-LDY and KN-302-SUMMER, respectively. For sensory perception evaluation, 30 participants answered the questionnaire consisted of nine different bipolar adjectives dealing with tactile sensation using the semantic differential scale (SDS). As the result of mechanical properties, there were meaningful differences in shear, surface, compression properties, thickness, and weight of 4 NaCOC fabrics. For hand value, a coyotebrown twill fabric was evaluated as the most appropriate for lady’s summer dress applications. In sensory perception evaluation, meaningful differences of sensory perception were shown among 4 specimens except ‘fineness’ and ‘wetness’ perceptions. Prediction models for sensory perceptions of NaCOC fabrics were extracted by regression analysis in ‘softness’, ‘fineness’, ‘warmth’, ‘pliability’, ‘limpness’, ‘thinness’ and ‘wetness’ perceptions.

Seam pucker and formability of the worsted fabrics

The purpose of this study is to objectively evaluate the seam pucker as a fabric formability and to analyze the effects of the fabric structural and sewing parameters to the seam pucker properties of the worsted and wool/polyester blend fabrics. The seam pucker of the worsted and wool/polyester blend fabrics according to the different types of fibre composition were surveyed by measuring fabric mechanical property using KES-FB and FAST systems and also seam puckering test was conducted by objective and subjective methods. In addition, the effects of fabric structural and sewing parameters to the seam pucker were investigated using statistical analysis. It was revealed that the effects of fabric structural parameters to the seam pucker were dominant than those of sewing machine conditions. It was shown that low pressor foot pressure and shuttle tension make good seam pucker, and high sewing speed and shuttle tension make bad seam pucker. And it was also shown that the precision on estimating of the seam pucker by KES-FB system was much higher than that of FAST system. And seam pucker values between objective and subjective methods showed good correlation.

니트 소재의 조직특성과 객관적 태에 관한 연구 -인타샤와 칼라자카드를 중심으로-

This study examines the effect of the structure of Intarsia and Jacquard knit on mechanical properties of knit fabrics to suggest data for knit design. Intarsia and 7 types of Color Jacquard (Floating Jacquard, Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard, Ladder's back Jacquard, Blister Jacquard, and Transfer Jacquard) were used. The samples with a gauge of 14 were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. The Objective Hand was measured by KES-FB system and HV and THV were calculated by the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter respectively. The results showed that Intarsia and Floating Jacquard are thin, flexible and light, Bird's eye Jacquard is slick, flat and slim, Tubular Jacquard is stiff and undrapable, Ladder's back Jacquard is difficult in shearing deformation and relatively bulky, Blister Jacquard is thickest and transfer jacquard is uneven in surface contour. The selection of proper structure is important for the knit apparel production since the thickness and weight of knit determine the amount of yarn needed and consequently the production cost. The hands of Ladder's back Jacquard and Tubular Jacquard are superior to those of other structures. Intarsia and Floating Jacquard which are thin, light and flexible seem to be good structures for designs showing a body silhouette whereas, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard and Blister Jacquard (which are thick, heavy, and stiff) are suitable for a boxy silhouette.

Verification of prediction for bending rigidity of woven fabric laminated with interlining by adhesive bonding

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of pressing on bending rigidities of the face fabric, adhesive interlining and bonded composite fabric and verify the prediction method for bending rigidity of those. Predicting methods of bending rigidity for composite with face fabric and adhesive interlining based on laminated theory were verified with measured bending rigidities and thickness of samples. Bending rigidities and thicknesses of woven fabrics, adhesive interlinings and composites with those were measured by the KES-FB system. Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) film was used for measuring mechanical properties of pressed adhesive interlining. Bending rigidities of adhesive interlinings became larger and thicknesses were reduced compared to those before pressing. Bending rigidities of face fabrics didn’t change though the thicknesses became thinner than before pressing. It was found that the case of considering mechanical properties of pressed face fabric and pressed interlining was more efficient to predict bending rigidity of composite with laminated model.

흡습유연 처리에 의한 PET 소재의 성능 변화 분석

Superior hydrophilic properties will allow varieties of polyester(PET) fiber materials, fabrics and industrial materials a broader scope of use. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of water-absorbent softener treatment on the end-use properties and the hand of polyester knitted fabrics. Two different fabrics were knitted for the summer ladies' outwear; PET jersey and PET mesh. Variables were softner treatment and stitch type(jersey and mesh). Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(T.H.V.) was calculated according to the KN-304 Summer. Both water-absorbent softner treatment and stitch types affected mechanical properties and hand values of PET fabrics. Mesh were thicker than single jersey stitch. As they became thicker, tensile, shear, and compressional energy increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction of mesh stitch was larger than that of single jersey stitch. The coefficient of friction and the mean deviation of surface roughness were decreased by softener treatment. After softner treatment KOSHI and SHARI of the both PET jersey and PET mesh decreased. However, FUKURAMI values of PET jersey increased and that of PET mesh decreased. The T.H.V. of the treated PET jersey was lower than that of the untreated one, while the T.H.V. of the treated PET mesh was higher than that of the untreated one. Overall T.H.V. of the single jersey was better than that of the mesh before and after softner treatment.

위생용 부직포의 키토산/은나노 혼합용액 처리에 의한 역학적 특성 변화

In order to investigate the changes in mechanical properties of sanitary nonwoven fabrics actually used as a top sheet, the fabric was treated with a mixture of chitosan and nanosilver colloidal solution in accordance with the prescribed ratio. The former is a natural polymer with excellent biocompatibility and the latter can give an additional performance while compensating the weaknesses of chitosan of deteriorating adherence efficiency. It was shown that the bending and shearing characteristics of the chitosan/nanosilver treated fabrics decreased, which helped to make it softer, smoother and more flexible. The shape stability and drapability of the treated fabrics improved. As KES-FB system evaluation showed that Koshi was deduced, and both Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the chitosan/nanosilver treated fabrics were smoother to provide elasticity. In the change of hand value compared to chitosan only treatment, a better THV was shown in the fabrics treated with chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution than the fabric treated with chitosan alone.

은나노 코팅이 면직물의 역학적 특성과 태에 미치는 영향

This study examined the difference in the mechanical properties of cotton fabrics treated with nano silver. Nano silver powder, UV-absorber, and DMDHEU are applied to cotton fabrics. The reagents added in a finishing solution were Triton X-100 and . The mechanical properties of the fabrics were measured by KES-FB system. From these, the primary hand values were evaluated by the conversion equation (KN-202-DS). The results of this study are summarized as follows. The fabric tensile properties and bending properties are increased by the application of nano silver, DMDHEU, and UV-absorber mixed. The values of tensile properties in the warp direction were significantly lower than those in the weft direction. However, the values of bending properties in the warp direction were higher than those in the weft direction. The differences in the values of compression parameters by nano silver coating were unnoticeable. However, the compression energy and resilience of compression in each fabric was increased by DMDHEU treatment. The SMD values of cotton fabrics are decreased by nano silver, DMDHEU, and UV-absorber mixed treatment.

A Study on Change in the Length of Knit Flare Skirt through Mechanical Properties

Abstract The purpose of this study is to analyse the effects of knit samples' mechanical properties on changes of skirt length of knit flared skirt, and to compare it to the knitting method of a seamless knitted flare skirt. So, I compared the appearance and 3-dimensional shape of a seamless knitted flare skirt with those of a fully cut knit flared skirt. For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The results are as follows: The result of the evaluation of knit samples' mechanical properties by the KES-FB system showed that elongation decreased as gauge increased and course direction was greatest among grain directions. The length change after wearing the knitted flare skirts appeared wholly equal to the seamless knitted, compared with the cut and sew. The change was biggest at 180°, 7G of the cut and sew. In grain direction, bias cut showed more than 1.2cm of length change. As the weight and thickness increased, the length changes become larger. The regression analysis indicated that the greatest contributive variables on the length changes were elongation, weight, and thickness.

메탈릭 자카드 직물의 감성 평가

The purposes of this study ate to evaluate sensibility performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women`s suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. The sensibility performances such as sensory, touch preference and buying preference for memory fabrics of the metallic Jacquard fabrics were evaluated, and mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. The correlation between the mechanical properties and the sensibility performance were analyzed. As the metal fiber content increased, the sensory evaluation value of lustered, wrinkly, sandy, rustle and stiff increased, the sensory evaluation value of slippery and damp decreased. As the metal fiber content increased, the touch preference decreased and the buying preference increased. The touch preference had negative correlation with the metal fiber content, but the buying preference had positive correlation with it.

키토산/은나노 혼합용액처리에 의한 환자복 소재의 기능성 향상 - 역학적 특성과 태 평가 -

In order to enhance the functionality of a cotton fabric actually used as a clothing material for patients, the fabrics were treated with a chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution. The nanosilver had excellent biocompatibility, provided expectation of an additional performance, did not harm human beings, and supplements chitosan, which was disadvantaged if used alone for fabric treatment. The nanosilver was mixed thereto and a treatment effect due to a mixing ratio was considered. This study was observed through mechanical properties and hand value which were the important function. The treatment of chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution gave a smoother surface than the treatment of chitosan alone. As a result of evaluation of the forms according to KES-FB system, Koshi was deduced, and both Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the cotton fabric was a little smooth to provide elasticity, due to the treatment of chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution. THV of the treated fabrics calculated from this basis increased at all mixing ratio as compared with the untreated fabric. The fabrics treated with chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution were shown a better THV than the fabric treated with chitosan alone.