KES-FB System Research Articles

Wearable properties of polylactic acid and thermoplastic polyurethane filaments 3D printed on polyester fabric

Three-dimensional (3D) printing on textile substrates is a promising method to create objects with a variety of different materials that have tailored mechanical properties. This synthesis of technology is favored by current researchers to retain the characteristics of 3D printing while maintaining the wear comfort of fabrics. Although the importance and potential of textile-based 3D printing have been recognized, it is worth noting that there is still a lack of comprehensive studies on the basic wearable properties. In this study, polylactic acid (PLA) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) are extruded separately onto polyester fabric. Then the wearable properties are examined through bending, compression, thermal conductivity, and thermography tests, which are carried out by using the KES-FB system and a thermal imager. The results indicate that the printed PLA on polyester fabric has a better washing resistance than the printed TPU on polyester fabric with a smaller reduction in the peel force after different washing cycles. The rate of decline of the printed TPU samples is 53.2%, which is more than twice that of the printed PLA samples (20.4%) after 30 washing cycles. In terms of the physical and thermal properties, the results show that the bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, compression energy, k values, and thermal insulation properties of the PLA and TPU samples are generally well-correlated with the number of printed layers. Further applications can be explored based on the results reported in this paper.

Mechanical properties and preferences of natural and artificial leathers, and their classification with a focus on leather for bags

In this study, the mechanical properties and preferences of natural and artificial leathers were analyzed. The leathers were classified based on mechanical properties affecting their preferences. The mechanical properties of the leathers were measured via the KES-FB system, and an expert survey was conducted to evaluate leather preference. Leathers possess different mechanical properties depending on the manufacturing process and structural characteristics. Furthermore, differences were observed in the mechanical properties of natural and artificial leather. The mechanical properties of the leathers were related to the preferences for hand and bags. Accordingly, the leather was classified into three clusters. The leathers that were preferred for hand were not preferred for bags, and those preferred for bags were not preferred for hand. Therefore, different development strategies are needed, depending on the type of leather. Natural leather for bags should be light and have good compression elasticity along with its existing mechanical properties, whereas artificial leather should be light and have improved tensile resilience.

Studies on Sized Silks for East Asian Painting Background

This study provides a comprehensive evaluation of general characteristics of sized silk fabrics for the painting purpose. Two particular types of silk fabrics used for painting background were compared: a recreation of historical material and a mass produced material of present day. The sizing process made the surface characteristics of the silk fabrics more suitable for painting. The dyeing properties of the fabrics were related to the surface area of the fabrics, and had no significant effect on their mechanical properties. The antibacterial activity of the tannin-based natural dyestuffs were maintained after the sizing. The performance assessment by the KES-FB system showed that the fabrics are more prone to deteriorate after the sizing because the glue layer receives the most of the physical stresses.

고감성 여성의류용 소모직물의 역학특성, 외관특성 및 의류형성성능

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.

광섬유 자카드 직물의 역학적 특성 및 감성평가

This study compares general jacquard fabrics and jacquard fabrics with optical fiber on mechanical properties, sensibility and preference evaluation of fabric for the blind. The analysis also assesses the effect of optical fiber in the evaluation and identifies those best suited for consumers. The mechanical properties of jacquard fabrics were measured by the KES-FB system. Sensibility and the preference of the jacquard fabric for the blind were rated on tactile sensation by women experts in their 20's and 30's. It was found that the optical fiber in jacquard fabric affected the change of mechanical properties as well as sensibility and preference. Jacquard fabric with optical fiber were softer and more transformable, while the fabrics had lower recover property by shear force and compression as well as more violent unevenness. Jacquard fabrics were also classified into three hand factors of surface property, resilience and weightiness. There were significant differences on surface property perceptions and weightiness, hand and blind preferences by optical fiber. Jacquard fabrics that contained optical fiber were not preferred by the blind because they were perceived to be uneven and heavy. Those, that were smooth and light, were preferred for jacquard fabric; in addition, fabrics preferred by the blind had good compression.

In-situ Characterization of Fabric Thickness under Tension based on CHES-FY System

This paper details an effort to study the principle and the investigate feasibility of measuring dynamic thickness of fabric under tension based on a comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY), which was developed to evaluate multiple mechanical properties of fabrics and yarns by a pull-out test. The initial thickness measured by CHES-FY system was compared with that by KES-FB system. Relationships between thickness strain and axial strain of fabrics were obtained from experimental and theoretical results so as to reveal out-of-plane Poisson's ratio. Effect of the horizontal distance between bi-U-shaped pins and the pulling pin on thickness is discussed. It is demonstrated that CHES-FY system can measure the dynamic thickness of fabric and characterize the out-of-plane Poisson's ratio effectively. The CHES-FY system would be helpful in analyzing thickness changes in the weaving and winding process when fabric is subjected to mechanical actions.

Study of the influential inputs on the bagged denim fabric behaviors using the principal component analysis method

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to predict the appearance of denim fabric after repetitive uses judging the denim cloth behavior and performance in viewpoint of bagging ability. Hence, it attempts to carry out the significant inputs and outputs that have an influence on the bagging behaviors using the Principal Component Analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the Kawabata Evaluation System parameters such as the frictional characteristics, the bending, compression, tensile and shear parameters are investigated to propose a model highlighting and explaining their impacts on the different bagging properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their bagging properties using Taguchi experimental design. The linear regressive models prove the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings. Design/methodology/approach – To investigate the mechanical properties and their contributions on the bagging characteristics, some denim fabrics wer...

라미네이팅 투습방수 직물의 태와 선호도 평가

This study evaluates the objective and subjective hand as well as the preference for hand and outdoor jackets on laminated waterproof breathable fabrics with different constituent characteristics to identify those best suited for consumer needs. Mechanical properties and objective hands were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand and the preference of laminated waterproof breathable fabric for outdoor jackets were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts with tactile and visual senses that utilized a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale; subsequently, the flexibility and compressive elasticity of laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were low. However, light and thin waterproof breathable fabrics with a smooth surface had high scores in smoothness, fullness & softness and total hand value. In addition, laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were classified into three hand factors: flexibility, density, and surface properties. There were significant differences on flexibility and surface property perceptions, hand and out-door jackets preferences according to the characteristics of waterproof breathable fabrics. The hand preference of the laminated waterproof breathable fabric improved with decreasing 2HB and increasing EM. However, EM showed positive effect for outdoor jacket preferences. Those that were flexible and smooth were preferred for outdoor jackets.

Characterization of recycled polyethylene terephthalates and polyethylene terephthalate–nylon6 blend knitted fabrics

For environmental conservation, post-consumer polyethylene terephthalate (PET) bottles are recycled using methods ranging from mechanical recycling to various chemical recycling processes. In this study, the characterization of recycled PETs and PET–nylon6 blend knitted fabrics, and virgin PET knitted fabric, was carried out with the aim of broadening the application of recycled PET fabrics. The tensile strength values of mechanically and chemically recycled PET knitted fabrics were similar to those of virgin PET knitted fabric. The elongation of recycled PET–nylon6 blend knitted fabric was the best. Both virgin and recycled PET knitted fabrics had excellent pilling resistance. Based on the drape ratio, the recycled PET–nylon6 blend knitted fabric was more flexible than other samples. The warm/cool feeling ( Qmax), compressional and surface properties were measured using the Kawabata evaluation system for fabrics (KES-FB system). The compressional properties of mechanically recycled PET knitted fabric were similar to those of virgin PET knitted fabric. The recycled PET–nylon6 blend knitted fabric showed the smoothest appearance and coolest feeling among the four samples. Moisture regain and moisture permeability were the best in recycled PET–nylon6 blend knitted fabric. However, the wickability of mechanically recycled PET knitted fabric was better than other recycled PET knitted fabrics.

Prediction models for audible distance using mechanical and psychoacoustic parameters of combat uniform fabrics

A short audible distance for the rustling sound of combat uniform fabric helps to reduce soldiers’ exposure to the enemy forces. The objectives of this study were to evaluate mechanical properties and sound characteristics of combat uniform fabrics, to investigate their influence on audible distance at which fabric’s rustling sound can be reached to human ear, and to establish prediction models for audible distance using mechanical and psychoacoustic parameters. Six types of combat uniform fabrics were used as test specimen. Mechanical properties of the specimens were measured according to the KES-FB system and the acoustic characteristics of the fabrics were analyzed by the Sound Quality System. Audible distances of the fabric sounds were assessed by 30 male soldiers. The audible distances were determined by the distance of which the participants walked away from a starting point in a straight line until they could not hear the sound. Water repellent finished fabric (W-WR), which showed the highest values of bending rigidity, shear stiffness, sound pressure level, loudness(Z) and sharpness(Z) among all fabrics, had the longist audible distance. Fabric for summer season (W-S) had the shortest audible distance in all frictional speed levels, which indicates the best auditory camouflage performance. Coefficient of friction was chosen as the variable affecting loudness(Z) of fabric sounds. Loudness(Z) was finally chosen as the prediction parameter for the audible distance by path analysis.

기모가공 조건에 따른 트리코 기포 인조 스웨이드의 태와 물성

This study evaluates the changes of the subjective hand, preference, comfort and mechanical properties of tricot based artificial suede made from sea-island type micro fibers according to raising condition. The subjective hand and the preference of raised suede for jacket were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts according to raising cycles. Comfort properties were evaluated by air permeability, water vapor transmission, and thermal transmission. Mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand of artificial suede was categorized into three hand factors: smoothness, warmness and thickness. Smoothness, warmness and thickness perception increased with raising cycles which affected hand preference and luxuriousness perception. The thickness and wale density of suede increased with the number of raising. Suede became more compact and less pliable and less stretchable due to increased fabric thickness; in addition, the surface of suede became smoother and compressive since the surface evenness of suede improved with smaller fiber fineness and an increased amount of naps covered the base fabric. Furthermore, water vapor transmission decreased and thermal insulation increased. The best raising conditions for artificial suede was four cycles in which artificial suede was preferred without changes in physical properties.

Mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for emotional garment to the rapier loom characteristics

This study examined the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics woven using various rapier weaving looms. For this purpose, the warp and weft yarn tensions during weaving were measured on the three types of rapier looms, and the fabric mechanical property changes due to the warp and weft tension differences were measured and analyzed according to the fabric position and particular rapier loom using the KES-FB system. The warp tension variation along the loom width direction in P-GTX loom showed the lowest value compared to FAST and THEMA looms. The warp tensions on the central part of the three types of looms were much higher than those on the left and right sides of the looms. The extensibility and bending rigidity of the fabric woven by P-GTX rapier loom showed lower values than those of FAST and THEMA looms, which appears to have originated from the low warp and weft weaving tensions of P-GTX rapier loom. On the other hand, the compressional property and shear modulus showed compromised results due to lateral deformation by compression and constraint deformation of the warp and weft by shear. The friction coefficient of the fabric surface woven by FAST loom showed the lowest value due to the flatter surface by the high warp tension. The mechanical properties of the fabric loaded by a high warp tension on the central part of the loom were also affected by the high weft yarn crimp due to the wider spacing between warp yarns by the higher warp tension during weaving, which makes the surface of the central part of the fabric flatter and smoother than the edge part of the fabric.

Classification of synthetic polyurethane leather by mechanical properties according to consumers’ preference for fashion items

This study aims to evaluate the effect of mechanical properties on consumers’ preference for fashion leather items, and to classify them by the mechanical properties of synthetic leather. Mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system and a survey of experts was conducted with a preference evaluation for various items using 15 types of synthetic polyurethane leather. More easily transformable and lighter leathers are preferred for clothing, while the leathers that have better dimensional stability are preferred for purses, bags, shoes, and boots, and those with smooth surface are preferred for furniture. Furthermore, synthetic leathers were classified into three clusters by mechanical properties. There was no difference between clusters in preference for non-clothing item, because no perception of various mechanical properties was caused by the structural characteristics of each items by design. On the other hand, for clothing items, consumers’ preferences are significantly affected by mechanical properties.

저융점 폴리에스터 자카드직물의 물성에 대한 열처리 효과

There has been an increasing demand for high performance and energy-saving of blind. In order to develop the eco-friendly blind textiles, heat treatment process has been utilized for LM(Low Melting) polyester fabrics and the changes of the physical properties of the treated fabrics were examined according to temperature of heat treatment. Morphology, surface reflectance, contact angle, luster, thermal property and mechanical property of heat treated LM polyester fabrics were investigated. As results, morphology analysis of thermal treated fabrics confirmed that degree of fusion of LM polyester yarns improved with increase of temperature. Surface reflectance of thermal treated fabrics decreased with increase of temperature. Luster and contact angle of a water droplet on thermal treated fabrics increased slightly with increase of temperature. The mechanical properties of the fabrics by KES-FB system were found to be temperature-dependent and especially, bending and shear properties among them were highly related to temperature.

Characterization of Fabric Friction Performance by CHES-FY System

The paper mainly introduces a new apparatus (CHES-FY) to measure fabric surface friction. Compacted with the KES-FB system, the CHES-FY system has its own superiority. Through designing orthogonal tests, corresponding properties of 16 groups fabrics were measured by CHES-FY system. Based on the correlation analysis between KES-FB system with CHES-FY system, it indicates that the two systems have high correlations. Thereafter, regression equation that includes four parameters through multiple linear regression were achieved. It reports that CHES-FY system is feasible and accurate in measuring fabric surface friction performance.

나노웹을 이용한 라미네이트소재의 마찰음 특성

This study examines the rustling sound characteristics of electrospun nanofiber web laminates according to layer structures. This study assesses mechanical properties and frictional sounds (such as SPL); in addition, Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters (such as Loudness (Z), Sharpness (Z), Roughness (Z), and Fluctuation strength (Z)) were calculated using the Sound Quality Program (ver.3.2, B&K, Denmark). The result determined how to control these characteristics and minimize rustling sounds. A total of 3 specimens' frictional sound (generated at 0.63 m/s) was recorded using a Simulator for Frictional Sound of Fabrics (Korea Patent No. 10-2008-0105524) and SPLs were analyzed with a Fast Fourier Transformation (FFT). The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured with a KES-FB system. The SPL value of the sound spectrum showed 6.84~58.47dB at 0~17,500Hz. The SPL value was 61.2dB for the 2-layer PU nanofiber web laminates layered on densely woven PET(C1) and was the highest at 65.1dB for the 3-layer PU nanofiber web laminates (C3). Based on SPSS 18.0, it was shown that there is a correlation between mechanical properties and psychoacoustic characteristics. Tensile properties (LT), weight (T), and bending properties (2HB) showed a high correlation with psychoacoustic characteristics. Tensile linearity (LT) with Loudness (Z) showed a negative correlation coefficient; however, weight (T) with Sharpness (Z) and Roughness (Z), and bending hysteresis (2HB) with Roughness (Z) indicated positive correlation coefficients, respectively.

산업현장을 고려한 작업복 소재의 역학적 특성 연구

In order to investigate the mechanical properties of working clothes materials considering industrial settings, the test weaving materials were compared with the existing materials depending on the season. The material design of the test fabrics were changed through fineness, composition, density of materials then subsequently treated with functional finish. As a result of evaluation of the forms according to KES-FB system, Koshi was deduced, and Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the test weaving materials became flexible, surface became smoother, elasticity and volume characteristics indicated to have been improved. Consequently, the THV value of working clothes materials for test weaving was increased compared to existing materials which indicated improved result of the total hand value. Specially, the winter cloth material indicated improved drape characteristics and dimensional characteristics, showed improved liveliness as being compressed softly.

Effect of frictional sound of combat uniform fabrics on Autonomic Nervous System (ANS) responses

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effect of frictional sound of Korean combat uniform fabrics on the human responses of ANS and to relate them to the mechanical properties of fabrics in order to find out the way to reduce frictional sound of combat uniform fabrics. Three different frictional sounds of combat uniform fabrics were selected by cluster analysis and their sound characteristics were calculated using Sound Quality System. Ten participants’ ANS responses such as heart rate (HR), the ratio of LF/HF, skin conductance level (SCL), and pulse volume (PV) were measured during presenting the frictional sound as stimuli. Mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. Response differences (ANS responses after stimuli — those before stimuli) of HR and LF/HF significantly were positive to all of the fabric sounds, while the differences of pulse volume (PV) were negative. This phenomenon explains that sympathetic nerve system of all participants stimulated and they might feel nervous or bad with the frictional sound of fabric. WC, MMD, SMD and weight of fabric were negatively correlated with ANS, but RT, B and RC were positively correlated. They appeared to be influential factors affecting ANS responses.

Comparative Analysis of the Effects of Time of Heat Setting and Wet Processing on Tensile Properties of Treated and Untreated Knitted PLA Fabric

Poly (lactic acid) (PLA) is an aliphatic polyester and ecofriendly material of a natural origin with biodegradable properties. The monomer for PLA is lactic acid obtained from the fermentation of sugar and vegetables like corn and cassava. This study investigated the effect of heatsetting and wet processes on the tensile properties of treated and untreated Ingeo™ Poly (Lactic acid) PLA knitted fabrics. PLA samples of dimension 200mm x 200mm were subjected to heatsetting at a temperature of 130oC and increasing times of 15s, 30s, 45s, 60s, 90s, 120s and 240s respectively using the Werner Mathis infra-red heatsetting equipment and subsequently treated to wet processes including scouring, alkaline reduction clearing, dyeing and softening. Four tensile parameters were determined in warp and weft direction using the KES-FB system of fabric evaluation. These tensile parameters were tensile extension EM [%], linearity of load extension LT [-], tensile energy WT [g.cm/cm2] and tensile resilience RT [%]. The results showed (i) a consistent increase in tensile extension of treated PLA (unlike untreated PLA knitted fabric) with increasing time of heatsetting and wet finishing applications suggesting that treated PLA may tend to exhibit enhanced fabric hand or softness and increased formability (ii) Treated PLA to exhibit lower LT with increasing time of heatsetting and wet treatments implying a better formability and in-plane compressibility of treated PLA when compared to untreated PLA (iii) Treated PLA to display a greater tensile energy than untreated PLA, implying that treated PLA has greater flexibility, softness, gentleness and smoothness than the untreated PLA (iv) both PLAs exhibited low RT suggesting the general softness of PLA.

Effects of Time of Heat Setting and Wet Processes on Tensile properties of Griege Knitted Ingeo™ Poly Lactic Acid (PLA) Fabric

Poly (lactic acid) (PLA) is an aliphatic polyester and ecofriendly material of a natural origin with biodegradable properties. The monomer for PLA is lactic acid obtained from the fermentation of sugar and vegetables like corn and cassava. This study investigated the effect of heatsetting and wet processes on the tensile properties of treated and untreated Ingeo™ Poly (Lactic acid) PLA knitted fabrics. PLA samples of dimension 200 mm×200 mm were subjected to heatsetting at a temperature of 130°C and increasing times of 15s, 30s, 45s, 60s, 90s, 120s and 240s respectively using the Werner Mathis infra red heatsetting equipment and subsequently treated to wet processes including scouring, alkaline reduction clearing, dyeing and softening. Four tensile parameters were determined in warp and weft direction using the KES-FB system of fabric evaluation. These tensile parameters were tensile extension EM [%], linearity of load extension LT [-], tensile energy WT [g.cm/cm2] and tensile resilience RT [%]. Results indicated a remarkable change in tensile properties of PLA with increasing times of heat setting and wet processes.