Jacquard Fabric Research Articles

Design of Warp-Knitted Single/Double Jacquard Fabric for Shoe Vamp

Abstract In order to address the problem of the scarce stitch and color of conventional warp-knitted jacquard fabric, this paper puts forward a method of knitting single/double jacquard shoe vamp fabric with a multiple pattern and color on a high-speed warp knitting jacquard machine. In electronic jacquard systems, lateral movements of jacquard bars, relative to the needle bar, combined with controlled stitch structure and displacement data, facilitate the formation of loop and double loop stitches. And two split jacquard bars in half-gauge in odd and even wales can be threaded in yarns with different colors or varied dyeing performances, then the two-color jacquard effect can be obtained combined with stitch structure design. Taking the specific process as an example, this paper introduces a process design method for single/double jacquard shoe vamp materials, including raw material selection, stitch design, jacquard design, process parameter design, textile finishing design, et al., which can provide a theoretical foundation for the design and development of other warp-knitted jacquard fabrics.

3D simulation of warp-knitted double-needle bed creel jacquard fabric based on the stitch layer

Unlike common jacquard fabrics, the warp-knitted double-needle bed creel jacquard fabric has more unique patterns, which allows to knit two-needle stitch structure on both ground guide bars and jacquard bars. It increases the pattern design complexity and has applications in many fields. However, due to the complex jacquard displacement signals and patterns, the actual patterns and structures remains elusive during the design process. Here, we propose a 3D (three-dimensional) simulation method for the warp-knitted double-needle bed creel jacquard fabric. The knitting parameters are established as mathematical models, by which the jacquard displacement signals can be simplified to numbers to combine with the basic chain notations. The spatial structure of the fabric is analyzed and a 3D stitch-layer model is generated. The simulation results show that through this modeling method, all stitches are arranged in an orderly manner at the appropriate layer, making the stitch position clearer and the 3D structure of the fabric easier to be observed.

Research on the Thermal Insulation Properties of Three-Dimensional Spacer Jacquard Fabric Treated with Silica Aerogel.

Three-dimensional (3D) spacer fabric has the characteristics of a light weight and high strength, and its unique three-dimensional structure gives it great potential for development in terms of insulation. For the purpose of further improving the thermal insulation performance of 3D spacer fabric, the fabric was treated with silica aerogel while solving the problem of powdering during use. Firstly, the electronic Jacquard machine was modified for weaving spacer fabrics. The ground warp yarns were controlled by two groups of heald frames with various positions of heald eye, forming a double-shuttle. The longitudinal warp yarns were controlled by the Jacquard healdwine to prepare a spacer Jacquard fabric with a spacing of 5 mm. Secondly, polyurethane foam was applied as a carrier to compound with silica aerogel. The experimental results demonstrate that the strength of the composite fabrics is significantly increased, while the toughness is decreased. With the increase in silica aerogel content, the pore size of foam becomes smaller, and the degree of foam fragmentation increases, showing a trend of increasing thermal insulation performance followed by a decreasing insulation performance. When the aerogel content is 3.3%, the composite fabric has the optimal thermal insulation performance.

Texture mapping-based virtual simulation of striped jacquard fabrics

Fabric computer-aided design has become a hot research topic in recent years. The main objective of this research is to innovate a method of design, simulation and virtual display for weft-knitted striped jacquard fabrics. Preferentially, the fabric design and simulation models were established and the virtual yarns are intermeshed by connecting each control point of the loops to generate the structural simulation. The simulated image was captured as the texture image. The virtual display method of the garment based on texture mapping was mainly studied and innovated. Texture matching was realized based on the two-dimensional garment piece models and the vertices texture coordinates of the three-dimensional garment models were reset, then the three-dimensional garment virtual display was realized according to the mapping relationship between the triangles. During this process, the position of the texture can be dynamically designed and adjusted to achieve the desired effect. This research introduced the design of four kinds of striped fabrics and illustrated the corresponding simulation and virtual display effect to verify the feasibility of the method. The analysis of simulation efficiency reveals that the method responds quickly and has favorable adaptability to diverse patterns and models. The research provides a new idea for the computer-aided design of knitted fabrics and promotes the development of personalized garment customization.

DESIGN OF ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED JACQUARD MACHINE FOR MULTI-SHED WEAVING MACHINES

The Jacquard shed opening system, which makes it possible to open the shed by controlling the warp threads in groups and obtain different designs and shapes, differs from other shed opening systems in that each group of warp threads and each of them can be controlled as needed. The various warp movements, which are limited by the number of frames in other shedding systems, are limited by the number of sinkers in the Jacquard system. Since all known Jacquard shedding systems are designed for operation with single shed weaving machines, they cannot be used for shedding on multiple weaving machines. In this study, a new electronically controlled jacquard machine for multiple shed weaving machines was developed, which eliminates this problem and enables the opening of the weaving compartments by controlling the warp threads individually in multiple shed weaving machines, thus allowing the weaving of all known jacquard fabric patterns. The technological and kinematic schemes of the jacquard machine were prepared taking into account the type of fabric to be produced, the operating principles of the weft insertion and shedding mechanisms to be used in the machine to be developed, and the expectations for improving the technical and economic indicators of the machine. The electronically controlled pattern reading system, which consists of modules in the machine, converts the electronic data into mechanical data to ensure shedding. In the cam shedding mechanism, which transmits motion to the knives in the form of a stepped shaft in the multiple weaving machine, the warp threads are placed on the knives so that they can move vertically. They are controlled by specially structured sinkers which, in contact with the blades, move from the lower to the upper state with the help of the blades and from the upper to the lower state with the help of springs. When the warp threads are to remain in the upper position according to the pattern, the sinkers are interlocked by electromagnets to form an undulating nozzle corresponding to the fabric pattern. By arranging the interlocking projections along the sinker, it is possible to match the density of the sinker to the density of the warp threads. Since the machine allows weaving of all known jacquard fabrics, the problem of not being able to produce weaves other than the rag foot weave, which is considered one of the major drawbacks of multiple shed weaving machines, has been solved.

Estimation of permeability properties of technologically developed jacquard fabrics

The study investigated how certain design parameters affect the permeability properties of jacquard fabrics. Six woven samples were made on the same cotton warp and with the same loom setting. The fabrics were made from two different types of weft yarns (cotton and Lyocell Clima), in two different pattern sizes (with larger and smaller monochrome areas), and two groups of double twill weaves (self-stitched double cloth, interchanging double cloth). We proved the importance of the size and distribution of the pattern/motif, the type of weave and the type of yarns used in the jacquard fabrics and the influence they have on the permeability properties in close relation to the aesthetic function. All patterns with interchanging double weave have significantly higher air permeability than patterns with self-stitched weave. For thermal conductivity, the influence of the raw material and the size of the pattern/motif is obvious. For fabrics with patterns with larger geometric areas, where the presence of weft threads on the surface is greater, the thermal conductivity is higher. The pattern size, on the other hand, does not affect the ultraviolet protection factor (UPF), unlike the raw material from which it is made.

New Approaches for Textile Colouration and Surface Pattern Using Enzyme-based Biotechnology

The research presented in this paper gives an overview of a study which was undertaken to investigate the potential offered by the enzyme laccase (EC.1.10.3.2) as a creative design tool for innovative colouration and decorative surface pattern of textiles with a focus on providing sustainable alternatives to conventional processes used in industry. Research was conducted in two parts. The control (scientific) phase explored laccases potential for transforming a range of colourless aromatic compounds into coloured polymeric products via its reaction mechanism, and its ability to facilitate the colouration of most commonly used textile fibre types. Reaction processing parameters such as temperature, pH values, aromatic compound concentrations, and reaction times were investigated to achieve a diverse colour palette, ranging from light–medium to dark shades of blue, green, pink, purple, and yellow hues. Wool and nylon fibre types were found to be most suitable for laccase-catalyzed colouration. The creative phase investigated the design potential offered by the enzymatic colouration process developed; different and contrasting substantivity properties offered by various fibre types were exploited to produce shadow, reserve, and contrasting coloured effects on specially woven jacquard fabrics. The research demonstrates the potential offered by laccase as a transformative tool to replace conventional industrial colouration and surface pattern design processes with biological systems, which offer important advantages of simpler processing using milder conditions that eliminate additional chemical use and reduce energy consumption. The adoption of enzyme-based biotechnologies could help the textile industry transition towards a sustainable future.

Double-faced shading effect digital jacquard fabric with a weft-backed and warp-wadded structure

Jacquard fabric produced by a weft-backed and warp-wadded structure is a traditional figured fabric in ancient China. However, it cannot express multi-color on the face of fabric due to the restriction of the woven structure produced in the traditional manner. At present, researchers focus more on archaeological discoveries and cultural relic replication of jacquard fabrics with a weft-backed and warp-wadded structure, but neglect research on expanding the color gamut through structural innovation. To achieve rich colors and a double-faced shading effect on jacquard fabric, this paper proposes a design principle and method for the weft-backed and warp-wadded structure under the layered-combination design mode. Four structural models of the weft-backed and warp-wadded structure are combined with full-color shaded weaves, and the effectiveness of the color shading effect is verified through a fabric specimen experiment. The results show that the average lightness difference ranges from 0.80 to 1.48, the color difference ranges from 1.67 to 3.03, and the variance ranges from 0.21 to 1.27 on both sides of the fabric specimens. The resulting fabric achieves a full-color shading effect of four mixed colors and high color purity on both sides. In addition, the color shading effect is stable and ideal. The results of this study are expected to have tremendous benefits for the creation of new jacquard fabrics that will be applied to apparel and home textiles.

RESEARCH OF PARAMETERS OF STRUCTURE OF JACQUARD FABRICS

In this study, the structural parameters of jacquard fabrics were studied. The height of the bending wave of the warp threads and weft, weft for jacquard fabric of the main weaves with short, medium and long overlap are determined depending on the coefficient determining the height of the bending waves. It has been found that in jacquard fabric during the transition of weaves from long floors to short floors: the maximum density on the base and on the weft decreases; the geometric density at the base and on the weft increases; the height of the bending wave of threads along the warp and weft remains unchanged.

Visualization of balanced interlacement for digital jacquard based on interlacement frequency statistics and data

The balanced interlacement of woven structures directly affects the surface effect and production efficiency of woven fabric. If it fails to meet the requirement of balanced interlacement, the manufacturing of woven fabric could be unable to proceed. Under layered-combination design mode, the structure of full-color compound digital jacquard fabric designed in this study is a type of compound structure expressing the effect of single-layer structure. The warp and weft interlacement frequency of compound structure is the key to the balanced interlacement. The fabric expresses balanced interlacement if interlacement frequency in the warp/weft remains relatively constant, if not, then it is unbalanced. Apart from the analysis of the covering effect of adjacent threads, an interlacement frequency statistical program was compiled, the statistical data of warp/weft interlacement frequency were acquired, and then they were visualized in form of tables, figures, or scatter plots for balanced interlacement status comparison and optimal selection of balanced interlacement for full-color compound weaves. The results proved that the visualization of interlacement frequency was not only able to quantify the warp/weft balanced interlacement for basic/joint weaves, full-color compound weaves and compound structures, but also offered potential assistance to predict balanced interlacement status and prevent unbalanced interlacement before weaving. This study outlines how the visualization of balanced interlacement can be applied to the soft proofing of digital jacquard fabrics.

Design Method of Circular Weft-Knitted Jacquard Fabric Based on Jacquard Module

Abstract Recently, there is an increasing interest in design of circular weft jacquard because of the pursuit of fashion and comfort. Aiming at the complexity of the computer-aided design method of the existing circular weft-knitted jacquard fabrics, which is not conducive to the rapid design and intelligible for designers, a design method was proposed to transform pattern notation into knitting diagram efficiently, which was based on knitting rules and its creation as a set of jacquard modules. Knitting characteristics of jacquard fabrics were studied as a precondition. On this basis, the design procedures of jacquard modules were analyzed and illustrated by taking tricolor bird's eye backing jacquard as an example. Jacquard modules with various jacquard effects were designed and stored in a jacquard module database. To mathematically describe pattern notation, knitting diagram, and jacquard module, two-dimensional matrixes were established by the method of mathematical modeling, and a corresponding algorithm for the transformation of the pattern to knitting information according to the knitting rules of jacquard modules, which can be applied to ordinary jacquard fabrics was summarized. The project of tricolor circular weft-knitted jacquard with bird's eye in the reverse and four-color air-layer jacquard were taken for instance to verify the models and algorithm. The results obtained show that the approach can efficiently and conveniently realize the designation and machine-knitting of weft-knitted jacquard fabric, which provide a theoretical basis and notation of modeling for the computer-aided design of circular weft-knitted jacquard fabrics.

Design, preparation and characterization of three-dimensional auxetic warp and weft backed weave fabrics based on origami tessellation structures

Materials with a negative Poisson’s ratio (NPR) are also called auxetic materials, which as a branch of mechanical metamaterials have drawn a great deal of attention in many areas. Origami tessellation structures (OTSs) exhibit an in-plane NPR; meanwhile, they may also show an out-of-plane NPR, which may be called three-dimensional (3D) auxetic structures. In the crease pattern of OTSs, there are folding lines in perpendicular directions. Contractions in the warp direction need warp backed weave structures. Herein, warp and weft backed weaves are used together and three OTS Jacquard fabrics are designed. From the physical map, we can see that the elastic warp yarns and elastic weft yarns can form floats in the warp and weft directions, and the flat fabrics can be folded in to 3D OTSs according to the crease patterns designed. The in-plane and out-of-plane Poisson’s ratios of OTSs have been predicted and, subsequently, compared with the experimental results. All OTS fabrics can show an in-plane NPR, two fabrics show out-of-plane NPRs and one shows an out-of-plane positive Poisson’s ratio. A parametric analysis about the interior angle has revealed the interplay between the geometrical parameters of OTSs and the Poisson’s ratio. In various design fields, elastic yarns combined with warp and weft backed weave textile technology can pave the way for realizing new crease pattern fabrics focused on 3D auxetic materials. Theoretical results can provide methodological guidance and technical support for the design and manufacture of OTS fabrics with optimum functional performance or desired aesthetics.

Complex Pattern Jacquard Fabrics Defect Detection Using Convolutional Neural Networks and Multispectral Imaging

Manual inspection of textiles is a long, tedious, and costly method. Technology has solved this problem by developing automatic systems for textile inspection. However, Jacquard fabrics present a challenge because patterns can be complex and seemingly random to systems. Only a few in-depth studies have been conducted on jacquard fabrics despite their important and intriguing nature. Previous studies on jacquard fabrics are of simple patterns. This paper introduces a new and novel field in fabrics defect detection. Complex-patterned jacquard fabrics are much more challenging. In this paper, novel defect detection models for jacquard-patterned fabrics are presented. Owing to the lack of available databases for jacquard fabrics, we compiled and experimented on our own novel dataset. Our dataset was collected from plain, undyed jacquard fabrics with different complex patterns. In this study, we used and tested several deep learning models with image pre-processing and convolutional neural networks (CNNs) for unsupervised detection of defects. We also used multispectral imaging, combining normal (RGB) and near-infrared (NIR) imaging to improve our system and increase its accuracy. We propose two systems: a semi-manual system using a simple CNN network for operation on separate patterns and an integrated automated system that uses state-of-the-art CNN architectures to run on the entire dataset without prior pattern specification. The images are preprocessed using contrast-limited adaptive Histogram Equalization (CLAHE) to enhance their features. We concluded that deep learning is efficient and can be used for defect detection in complex patterns. Proposed method of EfficientNet CNN gave high accuracy reaching 99% approximately. We also found that multispectral imaging is more advantageous and yields higher accuracy.

Research on double-faced jacquard fabric with compound full-backed structure of three wefts

Weft-backed structures with compound weft colours can express the mixed colour effect. However, this structure is not suitable for jacquard fabrics with a double-faced shading effect in the traditional single layer design mode. Taking twenty-thread sateen with a step number (S) of 7 as an example, this paper investigates a design method for compound full-backed structure with three shaded-weave databases (SWDs) by selecting the primary weaves (PWs), designing the compound full-backed technical points and establishing the compound structure database with three SWDs. With this design method, a double-faced shading effect in combination with non-backed and full-backed effects on different sides of the jacquard fabric at the same position is generated. The fabric colour card was produced with three SWDs and three sets of different coloured wefts, and their colour values were measured, followed by an analysis of the compound structures on the reverse side, lightness, colour purity and colour difference (DE*ab) of the specimens. The results showed that the three covering effects on the reverse side, partly covered, critical position and totally covered, could be adjusted by controlling the step number and the transition direction of PW-C. For the specimens on the edges of the fabric colour card, their lightness and colour purity values showed a uniform transition effect along with the shading process; their colour differences ranged from 1.23 to 3.69, both in the range of 2–5, and showed a trace or slight colour difference between two adjacent fabric specimens, indicating that the colour shading effect with the three SWDs is stable.

패션 가방용 고기능성 자카드 직물 개발과 평가

패션 가방용 고기능성 자카드 직물 개발과 평가

Novel segmentation algorithm for jacquard patterns based on multi‐view image fusion

Pattern regeneration is one of the applications of reverse engineering technology in the textile field, which realises the process of textile-pattern regeneration-textile, and fundamentally provides an intelligent design means of textile. At present, the method of pattern regeneration in the jacquard fabric is to use the image segmentation algorithm to segment the image digitalised by unidirectional imaging, and then the segmented pattern could be identified to regeneration for the design of new fabrics. However, due to the concave and convex pattern textures on the surface of jacquard fabric, the traditional unidirectional imaging method cannot be used for the full characterisation of its structural information, resulting in unsatisfactory pattern segmentation effect. To solve this problem, a novel segmentation algorithm for jacquard patterns based on multi-view image fusion was proposed in this study. Based on multi-view image acquisition and fusion, the pattern image of jacquard fabric could be cluster-segmented by extracting the complete texture information of the fused image and the actual colour information of the calibrated image. Compared with the traditional unidirectional imaging method, the experimental results show that the enhanced texture information of the fused image is more workable for the pattern segmentation, it validates the effectiveness of the proposed method.

The size prediction and auto-generation of garment template

PurposeThe size prediction of garment is an important part in the process of the garment design and production, and it is also one of the most important features in warp-knitted computer-aided design system. The purpose of this paper is to realize the auto-generation of the garment templates using JavaScript and WebGL technologies, based on the prediction of the size of warp-knitted seamless sportswear.Design/methodology/approachThe warp-knitted jacquard technology is used to produce the warp-knitted seamless sportswear, which is divided into suits and tights. In order to achieve the purpose of this study, the dimensions of four kinds of jacquard patterns knitted under different knitting conditions are measured and the crosswise and longitudinal size shrinkage percentages are also calculated. Then, the relationship between the yarn count and the drawing density as well as the size shrinkage percentage is studied and a size prediction model for warp-knitted jacquard fabric is established. Next, according to the results of the size calculation, the point positions of the garment boundary in the mathematical coordinate system is determined. The color formula is built by the two-dimensional mathematical matrix. Finally, combined with the coordinate position and color information, the template can be drawn automatically.FindingsBased on the size prediction model of warp-knitted garment, the template generation of warp-knitted full-form sportswear on WebGL-enabled web browser is realized, which is proven to be an effective computer-aided design method for warp-knitted garments.Research limitations/implicationsBecause of limited researches, only two groups of yarns and four kinds of jacquard patterns were studied. A vaster database should be built and smooth curve, accurate coordinate needs to be optimized in the further research.Practical implicationsThe size prediction model for warp-knitted jacquard garment and garment template auto-generation of warp-knitted computer-aided design system will simplify the fabric technical design process, shorten design time and improve the efficiency of new product development.Social implicationsThe size prediction model for warp-knitted jacquard garment and garment template auto-generation of warp-knitted computer-aided design system will provide the industries a guidance for new sample development and it also can shorten the development time and lower cost.Originality/valueThis author analyzes the relationship between the size characteristics and knitting technology of warp-knitted jacquard patterns, proposes a model of size prediction and realizes the auto-drawing of the garment template in the warp-knitted CAD system, which provides a reference for the new product design and development of warp-knitted seamless sportswear.

Computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric

PurposeThe weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric has the characteristics of complicated design principle and hard technical design. The purpose of this paper is to realize the computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric, and provide a certain reference for the development of this type of fabric.Design/methodology/approachThe weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is divided into weft-knitted two-side similar pattern jacquard fabric and weft-knitted two-side independent pattern jacquard fabric. In order to achieve the purpose of this study, firstly, the structural characteristic of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is analyzed. Then, the design principle of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is studied. Next, the technical model of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is established. Finally, the CAD flow chart of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is proposed to realize the rapid product development.FindingsBased on the above method, through the development example of weft two-side similar pattern jacquard fabric and weft two-side independent pattern jacquard fabric, the computer-aided design of the weft two-side jacquard fabric is verified.Research limitations/implicationsBecause of limited research studies, three-dimensional computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric loop structure will be studied in the further research, and the technical design speed needs to be improved to meet the needs of large patterns and positioning patterns.Practical implicationsThe computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric will offer a certain reference for product development, technical principles, performance research and computer simulation for the in-depth study of the fabric.Social implicationsThe computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric will simplify the fabric design process and improve the efficiency of new fabric development, and provide the industries a time-saving and cost-saving approach for new fabrics development.Originality/valueThe author analyzes the structural characteristic of the fabric by the physical fabric, summarizes design principle of the fabric through production process, uses mathematical methods to establish a three-dimensional technical model of the fabric, and proposes the CAD flow chart of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric, which has good theoretical significance and practice of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric.

Image-based textile decoding

A textile fabric consists of countless parallel vertical yarns (warps) and horizontal yarns (wefts). While common looms can weave repetitive patterns, Jacquard looms can weave the patterns without repetition restrictions. A pattern in which the warps and wefts cross on a grid is defined in a binary matrix. The binary matrix can define which warp and weft is on top at each grid point of the Jacquard fabric. The process can be regarded as encoding from pattern to textile. In this work, we propose a decoding method that generates a binary pattern from a textile fabric that has been already woven. We could not use a deep neural network to learn the process based solely on the training set of patterns and observed fabric images. The crossing points in the observed image were not completely located on the grid points, so it was difficult to take a direct correspondence between the fabric images and the pattern represented by the matrix in the framework of deep learning. Therefore, we propose a method that can apply the framework of deep learning viau the intermediate representation of patterns and images. We show how to convert a pattern into an intermediate representation and how to reconvert the output into a pattern and confirm its effectiveness. In this experiment, we confirmed that 93% of correct pattern was obtained by decoding the pattern from the actual fabric images and weaving them again.

Lapping modeling of looped warp knitted jacquard fabrics based on web

In this paper a mathematical model of looped warp knitted jacquard fabric is proposed. The technology parameters cover chain notation, threading, jacquard pattern grid and so on are defined based on the matrix. A basic pattern matrix is derived from chain notation and threading using the block matrix. Then combined with the displacement data of jacquard girds, the jacquard pattern matrix is calculated. Finally, the stitch type and stitch position are obtained analyzing the pattern information in the previous matrix. Special stress is laid on the difference between two different displacement data of jacquard girds, RT = 0 and RT = 1, which results in inconsistent lapping for the same jacquard bitmap. The pattern models are implemented and the jacquard lapping bitmap and three-dimensional simulation are generated by a calculating program via Visualstudio2015 using C# and JavaScript. The results show that this model can distinguish two types displacement jacquard information. The parameter input process is simplified and the run time for calculation is also shortened. In addition, with the help of CAD system via the web, priorities including resource sharing, design-time saving, and efficiency improving are achieved.