Abstract

The study investigated how certain design parameters affect the permeability properties of jacquard fabrics. Six woven samples were made on the same cotton warp and with the same loom setting. The fabrics were made from two different types of weft yarns (cotton and Lyocell Clima), in two different pattern sizes (with larger and smaller monochrome areas), and two groups of double twill weaves (self-stitched double cloth, interchanging double cloth). We proved the importance of the size and distribution of the pattern/motif, the type of weave and the type of yarns used in the jacquard fabrics and the influence they have on the permeability properties in close relation to the aesthetic function. All patterns with interchanging double weave have significantly higher air permeability than patterns with self-stitched weave. For thermal conductivity, the influence of the raw material and the size of the pattern/motif is obvious. For fabrics with patterns with larger geometric areas, where the presence of weft threads on the surface is greater, the thermal conductivity is higher. The pattern size, on the other hand, does not affect the ultraviolet protection factor (UPF), unlike the raw material from which it is made.

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