Abstract
Jacquard fabric produced by a weft-backed and warp-wadded structure is a traditional figured fabric in ancient China. However, it cannot express multi-color on the face of fabric due to the restriction of the woven structure produced in the traditional manner. At present, researchers focus more on archaeological discoveries and cultural relic replication of jacquard fabrics with a weft-backed and warp-wadded structure, but neglect research on expanding the color gamut through structural innovation. To achieve rich colors and a double-faced shading effect on jacquard fabric, this paper proposes a design principle and method for the weft-backed and warp-wadded structure under the layered-combination design mode. Four structural models of the weft-backed and warp-wadded structure are combined with full-color shaded weaves, and the effectiveness of the color shading effect is verified through a fabric specimen experiment. The results show that the average lightness difference ranges from 0.80 to 1.48, the color difference ranges from 1.67 to 3.03, and the variance ranges from 0.21 to 1.27 on both sides of the fabric specimens. The resulting fabric achieves a full-color shading effect of four mixed colors and high color purity on both sides. In addition, the color shading effect is stable and ideal. The results of this study are expected to have tremendous benefits for the creation of new jacquard fabrics that will be applied to apparel and home textiles.
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