Historical Textiles Research Articles

Effect of Museum Conditions on Historical Dyed Silk Fabric with Madder Dye

Historical textiles suffer from deterioration as a result of exposure to uncontrolled environmental conditions in museums. To establish standard conditions for display of undyed and dyed silk fabrics in Egyptian museums, different artificial aging procedures (thermal, light and chemical) were applied to examine their effects on the physical, mechanical and chemical structure of the silk fiber. Samples of undyed silk and silk dyed with madder with different mordants, iron II sulphate; iron III chloride and copper sulphate were used for this purpose. These aged samples were examined for their surface morphology, color parameters (CIE Lab), mechanical properties, degree of crystallinity, secondary structure analysis and amino acids content.

Green Infrastructure Embody an Exceptional Spiritual Relationship of People with Nature: Cultural Landscape, Implication for Sustainable Development

The major thrust of this study is to identify a way to improve the physical condition of greenway corridors in urban areas to better serve the multi-objectives of greenways for sustainable communities, based on a literature review and case study. Pdios River has been introduced, because of several factors; it is geographically representative of the region and one of the main natural land marks in Lefkosa, capital city of Cyprus. This paper demonstrates that cultural landscapes are part of the city's wealth and producing healthy ecosystem as city's brand, with a proper designed green infrastructure planning, conservation and preservation, promote place identity in identified markets. Nearly all major cities have been built along river corridors. River corridors are being focused on as important natural networks as well as cultural and recreational resources. Lefkosa Creek passes through the historical old city of Lefkosa and another historic site so it provides historical heritage and protects cultural values. It can work as a recreational, educational corridor with attraction of the cultural, historical fabrics as well as ecologically significant corridors. This research paper presents the guidance report on how to develop the methodological work linked with green infrastructure to promote place identity by emphasis on conservation and preservation green infrastructure as cultural landscape as implications for sustainable development.

A study on using of protease for removal of animal glue adhesive in textile conservation

AbstractAnimal glue has been used to fix historical textiles on paper, wood panels, or other rigid support materials. It is often present in shrunk, cracked, rigid, and brittle form because of the aged condition artifacts and may not provide enough adhesion for effective support causing damage to historical textiles. The biotechnological application of enzymes seems to be a very promising approach in the restoration of historical objects. In this experimental work, undertaken with modern linen and silk fabrics, interesting results have been obtained for the removal of animal glue by using the protease enzyme from Aspergillus oryzae. An extensive study was done in the enzymatic activity and efficiency for the removal of the animal glue from the textiles, as well as the effects of this treatment on mechanical and optical parameters of the textile fibers. The effect of protease on fibers is measured by Fourier transform infrared spectral analysis, scanning electron microscope, the CIE‐Lab values, ASTM method D5035, and XRD. The results showed that using protease in adhesive removal presented good results with a safe and a short treatment time when compared with the conventional methods. No significant changes on the linen and silk fabrics are observed. © 2011 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci, 2012

Application of infrared spectroscopy and thermal analysis to the examination of the degradation of cotton fibers

The potential of infrared spectroscopy and thermal analysis when determining the degree of damage of historical textiles was investigated. Model samples of artificially aged cotton were used. The results obtained by the two instrumental methods were correlated with the mean degree of polymerization of cellulose and with their tensile strength. Neither of the two instrumental methods on its own was found suitable for the determination of the degree of damage of cellulose-based textile materials. They should be combined with other methods serving to determine the extent of damage of cellulose-based textile materials, e.g. via the degree of polymerization of cellulose.

Textiles and Time: Reactions to Aged and Conserved Textiles in Historic Houses Open to the Public in England and the USA

The condition of textiles in houses open to the public influences our response to the historical integrity of these interiors. Decisions must be made whether to retain faded and shattered textiles, to conserve them using a variety of methods, or to retire historic textiles and replace them with replicas. Many factors influence these decisions, but this article argues that our response to the integrity of historic interiors is influenced by aesthetic judgements that are culturally acquired and this response, therefore, varies from one country to another. A comparison is made between practices in England, where 'history in continuum' favours the retention of historic textiles, and the USA, where restoring to a 'period of significance' favours the use of replicas.

Using of Laser Induced Fluorescent Technique as a Non-invasive Technique for Identification of Natural Dyes on Textile Objects in the Museum of Faculty of Applied Arts

Identification of dyes in a textile object is an important step for providing the appropriate effective conservation treatment. Identification of dyes in museum textile objects not only assists in establishing appropriate strategies for their conservation but it sometimes assists in their dating and locating their origins in addition to providing invaluable insights to the application of appropriate treatments during conservation and restoration work. The usefulness of a method can be used for identifying a dye on a historical textile object should be evaluated and chosen according to its diagnostic power, representative nature, reproducibility, destructiveness/invasiveness and accessibility. This study aims to evaluate the use of Laser Induced Fluorescent as a non-invasive technique for identification of natural dyes on textile objects in the museum of Faculty of Applied Arts. In this study wool textile samples were dyed with selected natural dyes that are common used in various historical periods in Egypt. Dyes used in this study are Cutch, Safflower, Indigo, Lac, Madder, Saffron, Sumac and Turmeric. These selected natural dyes will be used as known references that can be used a guide to identify unknown dyes on museum textiles. All dyed textile samples were investigated with Laser Induced Fluorescent in different wavelengths to detect the best wavelengths for identification each dye. Also all dyed samples were investigated using High Performance Liquid Chromatography with Photodiode Array Detection (HPLC-PDA).

Criteria and intervention techniques in rammed earth structures. The restoration of Bofilla tower at Bétera (Valencia)

This article presents a reflection on the various criteria and intervention techniques in rammed earth constructions carried out in Spain over the last decades, the intrinsic difficulties of this delicate operation and consequences resulting from each possible option for conservation of the authenticity, materiality, imprinted traces of its factories, and so on. First of all, it takes place a brief overview to the range of rammed earth variants existing on the Iberian Peninsula, that present various problems for restoration because of their different constructive devices that raise specific issues when it comes to restore them. Secondly, it introduces three great groups of interventions, ie, interventions recovering lost volumes, surfaces substitution restoration and conservation and protection actions of the historic fabrics. These three types of interventions are explained through examples done during the last three decades in Spain, where a briefly description both of the applied criteria and employed techniques and the results obtained after the intervention process. Finally, as a conclusion of the study on all these criteria and techniques and taking into account the results collected over recent decades, the restoration of Bofilla tower at Betera (Valencia), done by the authors of this paper, is displayed with its study, analysis, criteria, techniques and on site implementation, as a possible option for the historic rammed earth structures restoration.

Research and Theory Trends in Historic Dress and Textiles Research

Historic dress and textiles (HDT) has been a prominent research subject during the 20th century but has not been examined via a focused journal analysis. Thus, HDT research and theory trends were explored by analyzing 306 articles published in Clothing and Textiles Research Journal ( CTRJ) from 1982-2006 and Dress from 1975-2006. A content analysis approach was adopted to examine the following: quantity of HDT articles, single-multiple authorship, author affiliation, funding sources, research topic (including geography and time period), research method, and use of theory. The topics studied most often in CTRJ were apparel construction/production and research issues (19.5% each), and in Dress, social/psychological aspects of dress (18.3%). Most research articles (87.0%) used qualitative data to address research questions. The most frequently used research method in both journals was the social/cultural history-based approach. The majority of research articles (86%) did not articulate a specific or “named” theory. The findings yield valuable insights into the body of HDT research published within two key journals of the clothing and textiles field, including areas of strength related to topics of study and the suggestion that an open dialogue regarding theory development be continued.

Identification of natural dyes in historical textiles from Romanian collections by LC-DAD and LC-MS (single stage and tandem MS)

Abstract In this study, the dyes present in five 17th- to 18th-century textiles from the National Museum of Art of Romania, three religious embroideries and two brocaded velvets, are characterized and discussed, together with earlier results on textiles from Romanian collections obtained by the same research group. Dye analyses were performed using two methods: the well-established liquid chromatography-diode array detection (LC–DAD) and a recently developed liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC–MS) analytical protocol. The examination of very small historical samples by both techniques allows a better insight in the advantages and limitations of the two approaches to real analyses to be obtained. LC–MS data interpretation is based entirely on the results accumulated for dye standards. Electrospray ionization (ESI) was used in the negative ion mode and an ion trap served as mass analyzer. Both single stage (MS) and tandem (MS/MS) mass spectrometric approaches were considered. The dyes and natural sources identified by both analytical techniques are discussed in the historical context of the textiles, with respect to earlier results collected for similar Romanian objects. The study showed that the dye sources found in the 17th- and 18th-century Romanian velvets and embroideries were produced using a wide variety of dye sources, suggesting influences from Europe as well as from Asia Minor. Dye sources imported from New World have been also detected. The range of biological sources is in very good correspondence with earlier results obtained from textiles in the Romanian Collections. LC-MS (single stage and tandem MS) approaches have been demonstrated to be valuable tools for dye identification in small-scaled samples from historical textile objects only if sufficient knowledge on the dyes and their biological sources is first accumulated within experiments performed on standard dyes and standard dyed fibers.

Analysis of natural red dyes (cochineal) in textiles of historical importance using HPLC and multivariate data analysis

A new analytical approach based on high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detector (HPLC-DAD) and multivariate data analysis was applied and assessed for analyzing the red dye extracted from cochineal insects, used in precious historical textiles. The most widely used method of analysis involves quantification of specific minor compounds (markers), using HPLC-DAD. However, variation in the cochineal markers concentration, use of aggressive dye extraction methods and poor resolution of HPLC chromatograms can compromise the identification of the precise insect species used in the textiles. In this study, a soft extraction method combined with a new dye recovery treatment was developed, capable of yielding HPLC chromatograms with good resolution, for the first time, for historical cochineal-dyed textiles. After principal components analysis (PCA) and mass spectrometry (MS), it was possible to identify the cochineal species used in these textiles, in contrast to the accepted method of analysis. In order to compare both methodologies, 7 cochineal species and 63 historical cochineal insect specimens were analyzed using the two approaches, and then compared with the results for 15 historical textiles in order to assess their applicability to real complex samples. The methodology developed here was shown to provide more accurate and consistent information than the traditional method. Almost all of the historical textiles were dyed with Porphyrophora sp. insects. These results emphasize the importance of adopting the proposed methodology for future research on cochineal (and related red dyes). Mild extraction methods and HPLC-DAD/MS(n) analysis yield distinctive profiles, which, in combination with a PCA reference database, are a powerful tool for identifying red insect dyes.

Investigation of biodeteriorated historical textiles by conventional and synchrotron radiation FTIR spectroscopy

We have examined specimens of historical biodeteriorated cellulose textiles using synchrotron radiation and conventional source FTIR spectroscopy. The main aim of our research was to investigate structural changes caused by ageing and biodeterioration in different types of cellulose fibres. We compared the results, obtained with both methods regarding spectral quality and information obtained with each method. Additionally, we obtained mapping images of the cross sections of the investigated specimens using synchrotron FTIR in order to analyze structural changes in cross sections, caused due to biodeterioration.

A new approach for conservation treatment of a silk textile in Islamic Art Museum, Cairo

Abstract The paper presents strategies for the conservation of historical textiles in Egypt that have been in uncontrolled storage and display. The silk textile is highly decorated, multicoloured and dates to the Ottoman period, and was exhibited in case # 12014. The textile has various types of deterioration. An examination and analysis of the textile was undertaken in order to develop a plan of conservation treatment. FTIR was used to identify the kinds of dyes and organic stains, and XR-D was used to identify mordants and dust. Light microscope and SEM were used to identify the kind of fibers, their condition and surface morphology. The effects of cleaning materials on the natural dyes were tested. The researcher designed a new metallic frame support system which has advantages over the wooden frames commonly used in Egypt. This presentation will review the conservation treatment step by step. Poultices were used to remove all the sticking cardboard and adhesive. Old conservation repairs were removed. Separated parts were supported. Cleaning included mechanical and wet cleaning. New silk fabrics dyed with natural dyes were used to complete the missing parts. The textile was supported on new linen fabric which was stretched on a metal frame. The method of exhibition will be discussed. Photographs are included to document the conservation process.

Characterising the potential of sheep wool for ancient DNA analyses

The use of wool derived from sheep (Ovis aries) hair shafts is widespread in ancient and historic textiles. Given that hair can represent a valuable source of ancient DNA, wool may represent a valuable genetic archive for studies on the domestication of the sheep. However, both the quality and content of DNA in hair shafts are known to vary, and it is possible that common treatments of wool such as dyeing may negatively impact the DNA. Using quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (PCR), we demonstrate that in general, short fragments of both mitochondrial and single-copy nuclear DNA can be PCR-amplified from wool derived from a variety of breeds, regardless of the body location or natural pigmentation. Furthermore, although DNA can be PCR-amplified from wool dyed with one of four common plant dyes (tansy, woad, madder, weld), the use of mordants such as alum or iron leads to considerable DNA degradation. Lastly, we demonstrate that mtDNA at least can be PCR-amplified, cloned and sequenced from a range of archaeological and historic Danish, Flemmish and Greenlandic wool textile samples. In summary, our data suggest that wool offers a promising source for future ancient mitochondrial DNA studies.

An investigation into the removal of starch paste adhesives from historical textiles by using the enzyme α-amylase

Abstract The α-amylase enzyme has been reported during the last decade to be used for removal of the excess starch adhesive paste, which is usually used to fix textiles on paper, textiles, wood panels, or other rigid support materials. The final aim of this work was the application of α-amylase in order to remove the old starch from historical textiles in an attempt to conserve them under mild conditions. An extensive study was undertaken using various types of textiles in order to identify the optimum condition for the use of the enzyme, in relation to time, concentration, temperature and pH, before any other attempt. The first step was to simulate the textile ageing. The fabrics were coated with starch paste adhesive, and then a process of artificial thermal ageing was made on samples for different periods of time. After that the enzyme was applied to the samples, at different concentrations and at different intervals. This study also presents interesting results concerning the effect of the enzymatic treatment on the mechanical and optical parameters of linen, silk and cotton, dyed with madder or turmeric dye mordanted with CuSO4 or ferric citrate. Finally, the removal of enzymatic residues from textiles after the treatment has been studied. The application section has been fulfilled by using the whole process in a piece of a historical carpet from fabric adhered with starch. This piece of carpet is in the museum of the Faculty of Applied Arts, Helwan University in Egypt.

Controversial influence of aqueous treatments on historic textiles

Different historic textiles were subject to aqueous treatments with and without sodium borohydride as a reducing agent. As the action of borohydride generates an alkaline environment that is potentially harmful for oxidized cellulose in historic textiles, two less alkaline treatment options using buffer systems were additionally tested.In order to track the impact of the treatments on the samples, the development of oxidized cellulose functionalities and of the molecular weight was analyzed by selective labelling of carbonyl and carboxyl groups combined with gel permeation chromatography and multi-detector set-up. The crystallinity index of the samples was analyzed by CP-MAS NMR to elucidate the impact of age and treatment on the historic material.Already pure aqueous treatment changed the molecular weight distribution of historic textiles in some cases. These changes are discussed in the context of oxidized cellulose functionalities and crystallinity index. Furthermore the chosen historic samples reacted best towards a reduction treatment with sodium borohydride that had not been buffered, whereas the two buffered systems caused more damage and failed to reduce carbonyl groups along the cellulose chain.

FTIR spectroscopy of biodegraded historical textiles

Fungal attack is a common and severe problem in the storage rooms of museums. Fungi can damage different materials; organic materials are especially sensitive. In this work two different FTIR spectroscopy methods (micro-spectroscopy with diamond anvil cell and ATR) were used to investigate structural changes on biodeteriorated and non-affected textile fibres obtained from different Slovene museums and sacred objects. Several structural changes were observed in spectra of biodeteriorated as well as of non-affected cellulosic fibres, whereas no changes were observed in proteinaceous fibres. In the scope of spectral analysis crystallinity index has also been calculated by comparing two different band ratios. The research showed that the crystallinity index, calculated from the band intensity ratio I1372/I2900 groups fibres into two groups; biodeteriorated fibres predominantly have lower crystallinity index.

Novel methodology for the extraction and identification of natural dyestuffs in historical textiles by HPLC–UV–Vis–ESI MS. Case study: chasubles from the Wawel Cathedral collection

High-performance liquid chromatography coupled with spectrophotometric and electrospray mass spectrometric detection (HPLC–UV–Vis–ESI MS) was used for characterization of natural dyes present in historical art works. The gradient program was developed for identification of 29 colorants of various polarities. Dual detection system (UV–Vis and ESI MS) allowed differentiation of all compounds, even if they were not completely separated. This enabled examination of more color compounds over a substantially shorter time in comparison with previously recommended methods. Moreover, for extraction of colorants from historical textiles a two-step sequential procedure was proposed, excluding evaporation used in earlier procedures. The developed method was successfully applied to identification of indigotin, carminic, kermesic, flavokermesic, dcII, dcIV, dcVII, and ellagic acids as well as luteolin, apigenin, and genistein in red, violet, and green fibers taken from three selected historical chasubles which belong to the collection of the Wawel Cathedral treasury (Cracow, Poland). Italian textiles from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, of which chasubles were made, were dyed with a limited number of dyestuffs, consistently used for all batches of fabrics. The obtained results also allowed confirmation of the structure of the so-called “dcII” component of cochineal as a C-glucose derivative of flavokermesic acid.

Fashion at the museum: successful experiences with student curators

This paper describes the development of two fashion-centered exhibitions organized by non-museum studies college students in collaboration with a university museum and a community arts center and historic house. The work was the result of a new course, ‘Museum Issues in Historic Clothing and Textiles,’ offered in the Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Interiors at the University of Georgia. The department holds a large historic clothing and textiles collection, but has limited exhibition space. This paper describes the steps involved in the collaborative project, the active learning process in the classroom, the exact nature and process of the collaboration, and provides information on the final product – the two exhibitions created by the class. The paper aims to encourage similar collaborations between museum and fashion design, or fashion merchandizing programs housing historic clothing and textiles collections.

The role of glycosides in the light-stabilization of 3-hydroxyflavone (flavonol) dyes as revealed by HPLC

Before the advent of synthetic dyes, textiles were colored primarily with extracts of plants, many of which, in the case of yellow colors, were flavonoids. One important Asian yellow dye source was buds from the pagoda tree (Sophora japonica). Using reversed phase HPLC to separate the flavonoid components of plants and of dyed textiles, and UV/Visible and mass spectrometry to detect and identify them, we have shown that the buds of pagoda trees (Sophora japonica) contain an enzyme that converts light-stable rutin, the 3-O-rutinoside of quercetin, to light-unstable quercetin. This work provides an explanation for why 3-O-substituted, rather than unsubstituted, 3-hydroxyflavones, are generally, in our experience, found in extracts of historical textiles; it also shows how, i.e., by heat inactivation of glycosidases, 3-O-substituted hydroxyflavones could have been selected for. Some other dye-producing plants, e.g., Reseda luteola and Flaveria haumanii, also appear to contain glycosidases. The need for proper processing of dyestuffs, e.g., by heat treatment, was probably recognized by dyers in ancient times, even if the processes were not understood.

Erratum to: Comparison of extraction methods for the analysis of natural dyes in historical textiles by high-performance liquid chromatography

Erratum to: Comparison of extraction methods for the analysis of natural dyes in historical textiles by high-performance liquid chromatography