Global Fashion Research Articles

Introduction: Japonisme and Fashion

Abstract This introduction to a special issue dedicated to ‘Japonisme and Fashion’ evokes the influence of fashion within the field of Japonisme, sketches the history of the field, summarizes its recent developments, and outlines the issue’s contents. The modern sartorial practices and global fashion industry inspired by the styles, motifs, and concepts of Japanese dress shed new light on the inherent multiculturalism of Japonisme itself.

Challenges and Strategies in Protecting Single-Colour Trademarks within the Fashion Industry

This paper examines the complexities of registering and protecting single-colour trademarks within the fashion industry, with a special focus on high-profile cases such as Christian Louboutin's iconic red soles. It investigates the unique legal challenges faced by brands in establishing trademark protection for colours, which lack inherent distinctiveness but can acquire significant brand identity through secondary meaning. Through a detailed examination of various international court cases, the study reveals how judicial systems manage to uphold the integrity of distinctive brand elements while fostering a fair and competitive market environment. Additionally, this research discusses strategic approaches that brands can adopt to effectively secure and defend their unique colour trademarks in diverse legal jurisdictions. The findings shed light on the dynamic evolution of trademark law, underscore the significant impact of judicial decisions on brand protection strategies, and explore the broader implications these have on global market competition. By integrating theoretical frameworks with case study analysis, this paper provides valuable insights into the intersection of law, commerce, and brand identity in the global fashion industry.

Protection of Human Rights in the Global Garment Industry

Considerable expansion of the global garment industry, which in recent decades has become one of the largest employment sectors worldwide, has intensified scrutiny of states’ and businesses’ responsibilities, especially as production increasingly shifts to countries with less strict labour regulations. Analysis of the landscape reveals that, significant progress notwithstanding, world dialogue on business responsibilities has still not arrived at a solution. The complex network of stakeholders in the garment industry brings particular challenges to enforcing human-rights protection in this domain. The article explores the intersection of business practices and human rights within the garment sector, focusing on Bangladesh, India, and Pakistan, three countries which play a pivotal role in global fashion exports. Examining the legal obligations of state and non-state actors under various UN instruments by analysing the Universal Periodic Review mechanism and the concluding observations of the Committee on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights, it identifies critical issues in protecting human rights in these countries and briefly also reviews recent advances in the EU in the realm of business and human rights. The paper presents evidence that the growing influence of non-state actors calls for extending the obligations from traditional approaches’, which have focused on state responsibilities. Among the solutions proposed are reforming wage systems and imposing direct human-rights requirements on corporations, supported by more vigorous enforcement.

Analysing the modest fashion market: an empirical study of e-commerce best-selling products

Purpose This study examines the dynamics of the modesty-conscious market within the global fashion industry. Specifically, the research aims to understand and analyse the preferences of consumers in this market segment and provide guidance for fashion companies seeking to engage with this sizable audience consumer demand for modest fashion, such as loose-fitting garments and headscarves for women. Design/methodology/approach Employing a mono-method quantitative research approach, this study uses a comprehensive big data analytics framework to analyseashion data sets obtained from e-commerce websites. Findings The findings highlight a persistent and growing demand for modest fashion; that demand proved resilient in the face of challenges presented by the COVID-19 pandemic. Modest shoppers demonstrate price sensitivity, and their preference for premium brands over affordable ones varies considerably. Crucial factors contributing to the success of modest clothing as best-sellers include price, retailer, colour and fabric, while the discount feature is less important. Research limitations/implications While this research provides significant insights, it is important to acknowledge its limitations. This study relies on data gathered from certain e-commerce websites, and specific nuances of consumer behaviour may not be fully captured. In addition, the scope is limited to a specific timeframe and may not account for long-term market shifts. Practical implications Fashion companies could use the results of this study to customise their strategy for engaging the modesty-conscious demographic. Comprehending the significance of elements such as price, retailer, colour and fabric can allow firms to enhance their product offerings and marketing strategies. Social implications This study highlights the social ramifications of the modesty-focused industry, stressing the changing tastes and requirements of customers within this sector. By aligning their strategies with these societal shifts, fashion companies can contribute to a more inclusive and diverse industry landscape. Originality/value This research contributes to the academic literature on modest fashion by using a unique combination of exploratory data analysis and machine learning techniques with fashion e-commerce data sets. This study addresses a gap in the use of big data within this field, and provides novel insights into consumer demand for modest garments. This study challenges the prevailing assumption that consumers of modest fashion prioritise premium pricing, and offers fresh insights into their price sensitivity across both mass-market and luxury segments. It contributes to the literature on consumer behaviour in niche fashion markets and introduces a theoretical framework for understanding the intersection of fashion, culture and consumer economics within the context of modest fashion.

Role of Cultural Heritage in Luxury Fashion Branding in South Africa

Purpose: The aim of the study was to analyze the role of cultural heritage in luxury fashion branding in South Africa. Methodology: This study adopted a desk methodology. A desk study research design is commonly known as secondary data collection. This is basically collecting data from existing resources preferably because of its low cost advantage as compared to a field research. Our current study looked into already published studies and reports as the data was easily accessed through online journals and libraries. Findings: The role of cultural heritage in luxury fashion branding in South Africa has become increasingly significant as brands seek to integrate local identity with global luxury standards. Cultural elements, such as traditional patterns, textiles, and craftsmanship, are being incorporated into luxury fashion, reflecting South Africa’s rich heritage and fostering a sense of authenticity and exclusivity. This approach not only strengthens brand identity but also appeals to both local and international consumers who value unique, culturally embedded products. However, challenges include ensuring respectful representation and avoiding cultural appropriation. Unique Contribution to Theory, Practice and Policy: Cultural capital theory, brand heritage theory, symbolic consumption theory may be used to anchor future studies on the role of cultural heritage in luxury fashion branding in South Africa. Fashion brands in South Africa can enhance their market positioning by leveraging unique cultural elements that resonate both locally and globally. Policymakers should create frameworks that ensure cultural elements are not exploited by global fashion brands without proper attribution and compensation to local communities.

UPAYA MENINGKATKAN HALAL ADOPTION PADA TENUN SONGKET ETNIK LOKAL PANDAI SIKEK

The rapid transition of the global halal fashion industry may require a series of innovations and adaptations in the MSMEs sector. Therefore, technology adoption and organizational openness to change are the main challenges for stakeholders. This study was conducted to examine and analyze the effects of technology, organization, and an increasingly competitive environment on halal adoption in the MSME weaving sector. By using a purposive sampling technique with certain criteria, as many as 30 MSMEs owners or members were obtained to contribute and respond to the research questionnaire, and then those responses were analyzed through the Structural equation model technique with Smart-PLS software's latest version. Results stated that halal adoption in the MSMEs weaving sector is not affected by technological and organizational aspects, it is due to a lack of openness to accept the changes, then most of the actors also thought that halal adoption didn’t provide value-added. Therefore, the motivation for human resource development and technology utilization was also low. Halal adoption is significantly affected by environmental aspects. External pressures such as market demand and government regulations will force weaving MSME actors to adapt to the changes for business sustainability and maintaining national fashion cultural heritage.

Barriers to the adoption of industry 4.0 technologies within the Australian fashion industry

ABSTRACT The global fashion industry is undergoing rapid digitisation in which new Industry 4.0 technologies are changing the way fashion is designed and produced. The Australian fashion industry is considered to be slow in adopting these new technologies. The purpose of this research study is to investigate the current acceptability of Industry 4.0 technologies and the barriers to adoption within Australia. Data from forty-nine fashion organisations were obtained using a technology acceptance model (TAM) survey and a series of ten semi-structured interviews. The TAM survey results indicate that the industry accepts Industry 4.0 technologies to be useful and somewhat easy to use; however, technologies such as autonomous robotics, sensor and digital twin technologies are currently underutilised. Providing further insight, the interviews highlighted the key barriers to be the lack of industry leadership, misaligned knowledge and skills within higher education, and issues in the accessibility and scalability of technical skills and capabilities.

The impact of digital fashion marketing on purchase intention

PurposeThis study aims to examine the effect of digital fashion marketing on consumer purchase intentions. Rooted in the stimulus–organism–response framework, it explores how digital marketing strategies in the fashion industry influence consumer attitudes and satisfaction, ultimately affecting their purchasing decisions.Design/methodology/approachIt is mainly focused on the attitudes, satisfaction, and purchase intentions of young consumers in China and South Korea toward fashion brands stimulated by digital fashion shows and non-fungible tokens. This study modifies the research model through case studies, collects data through questionnaires, and analyzes the data using fsQCA and AMOS.FindingsThe findings of the fsQCA study show that stimuli impact consumers’ attitudes, satisfaction, involvement, and willingness to rewatch. The multigroup analysis shows that social norms and images have a greater influence on individuals in China, whereas Korea has a higher direct effect of individual involvement on consumption behavior.Originality/valueThe study is useful for global fashion brands because it emphasizes the role of digital innovations in shaping consumer–brand relationships and makes strategic recommendations for sustainable growth in the digital fashion landscape.

Commercialization of Hip-Hop Culture and the Evolution of Youth Consumption Patterns from Symbols of Rebellion to Fashion Trends

This paper explores the commercialization of hip-hop culture and its profound influence on fashion and youth consumption patterns. Originally a symbol of rebellion and a voice for marginalized communities, hip-hop has evolved into a mainstream cultural force, reshaping global fashion trends. The transition from underground streetwear to luxury fashion is analyzed through key moments in hip-hop’s history, including collaborations with major brands like Adidas, Nike, and Gucci. The rise of streetwear brands such as Supreme, Off-White, and Yeezy exemplifies how hip-hop’s commercial success has transformed it into a powerful influence on youth identity and social status. However, this commercialization presents a double-edged sword, raising concerns about the loss of authenticity and cultural roots. The paper examines how social media and digital platforms have amplified hip-hop’s reach and discusses the ongoing tension between its original rebellious spirit and its role as a commercial enterprise. The study also highlights the global impact of hip-hop on consumption behaviors, focusing on the rise of exclusive product drops and the commodification of streetwear.

Attentional templates for target features versus locations

Visual search is guided by visual working memory representations (i.e., attentional templates) that are activated prior to search and contain target-defining features (e.g., color). In the present study, we tested whether attentional templates can also contain spatial target properties (knowing where to look for) and whether attentional selection guided by such feature-specific templates is equally efficient than selection that is based on feature-specific templates (knowing what to look for). In every trial, search displays were either preceded by semantic color or location cues, indicating the upcoming target color or location, respectively. Qualitative differences between feature- and location-based template guidance were substantiated in terms of selection efficiency in low-load (one target color/location) versus high-load trials (two target colors/locations). Behavioral and electrophysiological (N2pc) measures of target selection speed and accuracy were combined for converging evidence. In line with previous studies, we found that color search was highly efficient, even under high-low conditions, when multiple attentional templates were activated to guide attentional selection in a spatially global fashion. Importantly, results in the location task almost perfectly mirrored the findings of the color task, suggesting that multiple templates for different target locations were activated concurrently when two possible target locations were task relevant. Our findings align with accounts that assume a common neuronal network during preparation for location and color search, but regard spatial and feature-based selection mechanisms as independent.

Do Consumers Respond to Social Movements? Evidence from Gender-Stereotypical Purchases After #MeToo

This paper explores whether and how consumers respond to global social movements challenging systemic discrimination and stereotypes. We examine the impact of the #MeToo movement on the market for products with stereotypical markers of femininity. Our analysis of high-frequency stockout and price data from a leading global fashion retailer spans from January 2017 to December 2018 and covers 32 countries, or 89% of the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) population. Using a triple-difference approach across time, countries, and products, we identify changes in product-level stockouts, corresponding to a drop in the purchase of stereotypically “feminine” items. Our findings suggest a sudden shift in demand, with no immediate adjustments in product assortments or pricing. We discuss potential driving mechanisms, as well as implications for product management and marketing in marketplaces where segmentation is gender based. This paper was accepted by Yan Chen, behavioral economics and decision analysis. Supplemental Material: The online appendix and data files are available at https://doi.org/10.1287/mnsc.2022.02352 .

Towards a monumental experience: Fandom and corporate imaginary within the LEGO inside tour

Global car, fashion, and media brands invite enthusiasts to participate in corporate values through brand museums, visitor centers, and factory tours. Those guided tours offer a means to engage their fanbase with the product/service in a more interactive and immersive manner. This study has in its focus the LEGO Inside Tour as a branded assembled spatial story of experiential consumption. Rather than focusing on theme parks as a historically proven place-based engagements with the industry, this study embarks on a journey into a consumer experience via architectural, material and performative inside tour created by the LEGO Group as a corporate engagement strategy filled with commodified meanings of fandom and nostalgia. Drawing from ethnographic fieldwork as a participant observer during the 3-day LEGO Inside Tour in Denmark, the author will discuss the externalization of LEGO brand values into meaningful spaces with symbols of LEGO corporate culture and nostalgia. Finally, the study offers a contextualization of a monumental experience in brand-related places and its role in the contemporary fandom.

Global fashion research evolution (2010–2023): A systematic review of the Journal of Global Fashion Marketing focused on luxury fashion

ABSTRACT This study systematically reviews all academic articles published in the Journal of Global Fashion Marketing (JGFM) between 2010 and 2023. This review aims to identify and analyze trends in fashion marketing research over the last 13 years, including the main themes and topics covered, research methodologies used, and authors and their contributions to the development of the discipline. Furthermore, it focuses on “luxury”, comparing articles published in JGFM with other major academic journals, providing a comprehensive and global overview of how luxury trends and interests have evolved in recent years. The study is relevant to academics, practitioners, policymakers, and researchers in the broader field of marketing and consumer behavior in the luxury fashion industry.

Photo responsive single layer MoS2 nanochannel membranes for photocatalytic degradation of contaminants in water

The major polluting aspects of our global fashion industries are the textile wastewater that turns black all our freshwater reservoirs. Nano-filtration through membrane technology is one of the biggest solutions of industrial wastewater treatment but the fouling of membrane is the major limitation of previous work. In this research, novel PVDF/MoS2-TNT (PMT) nanocomposite membranes were fabricated through a modified In-situ polymerisation phase inversion method. X-ray diffraction (XRD) analysis also confirmed the β-phase of PVDF within the developed PVDF/MoS2-TNT membrane. XPS analysis provides evidence about the presence of a specific chemical states of titanium nanotube and molybdenum disulphide which is involved in the photocatalytic degradation of pollutant molecules. Scanning electron microscope (SEM) shows that our membranes are porous in nature. PVDF/MoS2-TNT membranes exhibit excellent filtration efficiency (∼97%) for textile wastewater. The results and outcomes of the research demonstrate that PMT membranes have enormous potential in the commercial application of textile wastewater treatment.

Chinese Fashion in China’s Fashion Magazines (2005-2015)

This paper explores the status of Chinese fashion media from 2005 to 2015 to understand the role of fashion discourse and information flows in mobilizing activity and meaning in the Chinese fashion industry. By examining ten-year issues of two fashion magazines, Vogue China and iLook, alongside interviews with two fashion media workers, this research reveals that during this period, the diffusion channels for Chinese fashion media are experiencing significant change, with a shift in focus to the presentation of more localized fashion content and the creation of a closer relationship between Chinese fashion media and the Chinese fashion industry. The rise of online fashion media has provided an unprecedented way of engaging Chinese consumers with Chinese fashion, supporting a two-way information flow and a new dimension of interaction. Despite this development, the continuing dominance of fashion retailing and consumption, much of this being comprised of global fashion brands, and the scarcity of fashion professionals in China continue to marginalize Chinese fashion discourse.

Consumer Buying Behaviour in Sustainable Luxury Fashion

The purpose of this research paper on sustainability in luxury fashion is to analyse the current state of how each gender has a different purchasing behaviour in terms of sustainability practisesin luxury fashion, identify challenges, and contribute to a larger discussion on the role of luxury fashion in shaping a more sustainable and equitable global fashion industry. Chi- square test has been used to determine how gender influences the sustainability of luxury fashion. The two variables in this case are luxury fashion sustainability and gender. To achieve this objective, a primary survey was conducted with a sample of 124 participants who were divided into gender group namely female, male, others and prefer not to say. In this research paper it was found out using data analysis based on the primary survey of 124 respondents on how often do people purchase luxury fashion products that are marketed as sustainable or eco-friendly based on gender. As seen in the table 1,64% percentage of men always purchase fashion products that are marketed as sustainable, which is 29% more than women. 56% of the of the men never buy luxury goods that are more sustainable compared to 44% women who never buy sustainable goods. 53% of women sometimes purchase fashion products that are marketed as sustainable than 47% of the men. The same has been depicted in chart 1. It can be found out that overall men purchase more sustainable goods than women Keywords: sustainability, luxury fashion, purchasing behavior, gender differences, Chi-square test, eco-friendly products, consumer behavior

How H&M make concept BUY NOW THINK LETTER, H&M’s Role in Gen Z’s Hedonic and Impulsive Buying Trends

Gen Z values experiences over material possessions. They prefer spending on activities that offer memorable experiences, such as attending events, dining out, and travel. This preference for experiences also translates into their shopping behavior, where they seek immersive and engaging retail experiences. Explore the consumer behavior of Gen Z in Bekasi, specifically their hedonic tendencies, and to provide actionable insights for H&M's marketing strategy. By understanding the unique characteristics, preferences, and values of Gen Z in this region, H&M can tailor its offerings and marketing efforts to effectively engage this influential demographic. The method of quantitative approach with the survey results found is 149 respondents with the statistical technique used is Structural Equation Modeling Partial Least Square (SEM-PLS). Understanding the hedonistic influences driving impulsive buying among Gen Z in Bekasi allows H&M to craft targeted strategies that cater to this demographic's desires while promoting sustainability. By balancing trendiness with environmental responsibility, H&M can build lasting brand loyalty and contribute positively to the global fashion landscape. This paper provides a roadmap for H&M to navigate the complex interplay of hedonism and sustainability, ensuring relevance and growth in the competitive market. Strategi yang dapat di lakukan oleh perusahaan adalah mempertahankan sifat tiba-tiba activities dari konsumen gen z seperyi embience store penataan new collection seasoning untuk tetap mempertahankan ketertarikan terhadap koleksi brand H&M. Kemudian pada dimensi Leisure Activities indikator yang memberikan pengaruh paling rendah friends opinion, strategi yang dapat dilakukan oleh perusahaan adalah meng improve pola konsumtif individu menjadji group, denga melakukan penawaran, buy 2 get 1 free atau spend 400k get 50% off. This study significantly contributes to the analysis of the influence of hedonic variables on impulsive buying behavior concerning the H&M brand. By examining the psychological and social factors that drive Gen Z in Bekasi towards impulsive purchases, this research provides valuable insights and ongoing suggestions for H&M's managerial strategies. It emphasizes the importance of balancing the "Buy Now, Think Later" concept with sustainable practices to foster long-term brand loyalty and environmental responsibility.

Carbon Footprint for Jeans’ Circular Economy Model Using Bagasse

To date, clothing has been produced and disposed of in large quantities. It is also known that each process, from the procurement of raw materials to production, transportation, sales, laundry, and disposal, has a significant environmental impact. According to the Global Fashion Agenda, greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions from the fashion industry account for 4% of the global total. Therefore, apparel makers are shifting from a linear economy to a circular economy. For example, the Japanese start-up Curelabo Co., Ltd. (Okinawa, Japan) developed jeans (bagasse washi jeans) made from bagasse, which is a residual material derived from sugarcane after the extraction of cane juice. Furthermore, the use of improved dyeing reduces boiler fuel consumption and eliminates the need for detergents and acid. For disposal, the used jeans and their production waste are processed into biochar for carbon sequestration. In this study, we attempted to calculate GHG emissions using life cycle assessment (LCA) for the circular economy model developed by Curelabo Co., Ltd. GHG emissions from the production of bagasse washi jeans were 1.09 × 101 kg-CO2e. Dyeing, bleaching, and fabric finishing, known as the wet processes, were found to contribute a large proportion of GHG emissions due to their high energy consumption. Furthermore, the entire lifecycle of GHG emissions from bagasse washi jeans, including transport, sales, laundry, and disposal, were 1.53 × 101 kg-CO2e. First, the use of bagasse washi yarn for the weft reduced by 2.99 × 10−1 kg-CO2e compared with the use of conventional 100% bleached cotton yarn. Second, compared with conventional dyeing, GHG emissions from the improved dyeing process were reduced by 2.78 kg-CO2e. Third, the disposal of the used jeans and their production waste into biochar reduced GHG emissions by 9.01 × 10−1 kg-CO2e. Additionally, GHG emissions can be reduced by re-inputting waste in the paper-making process and by using liquefied natural gas as boiler fuel in the dyeing process.

Authenticity as a Strategic Weapon: Navigating the Social Media Battlefield to Enhance Brand Loyalty

Abstract In the dynamic landscape of the fashion industry, cultivating brand loyalty has become a challenging endeavour, intensified by the competitive realm of social media. This study addresses the crucial problem of fostering brand loyalty in the digital era by employing authenticity as a strategic weapon. Using an integrated Stimulus-Organism-Response (SOR) framework and social presence theory, we explore the diverse impact of social media marketing activity (SMMa) on brand authenticity and brand loyalty. Through empirical analysis of data from 365 consumers engaging with global fashion brands on social media, we find a direct and significant impact of SMMa on brand authenticity and brand loyalty. Brand authenticity partially mediates the relationship between SMMa and brand loyalty. While self-congruence does not moderate the effects, the research highlights the importance of authenticity in shaping effective brand strategies on social platforms. The implications of these findings are valuable for fashion marketers, guiding them in creating authentic brand images and fostering enduring customer relationships in the competitive world of digital marketing.

The ‘Wellbeing Wardrobe’ as a tool to promote just transitions in the fashion and textile industry

ABSTRACT In this paper we discuss the pressing need for a just transition in one of our most environmentally and socially problematic contemporary industries: the fashion and textiles industry. We detail the current injustices in the industry, from both environmental and socio-economic standpoints, and then move on to providing some suggestions as to how these entrenched problems with the industry could be addressed. Specifically, we identify five key action areas that could take us towards a just transition for the fashion and textiles industry: establishing limits, developing new indicators, promoting fairness, implementing just modes of governance, and creating new exchange systems. We propose policy interventions in each of these five action areas and discuss how they could practically be put into practice. In doing so, we develop a novel theoretical concept for a more just version of the global fashion industry: the ‘Wellbeing Wardrobe’, which draws on wellbeing economics and de-growth thinking applied to the contemporary fashion industry.