Garment Factories Research Articles

Ties that bind: fashion, textiles, and gendered labour in South Asia today

ABSTRACT As in many parts of the world, throughout South Asia, the various steps in textile production have historically been gendered, with men and women performing their respective specialized jobs. The late twentieth century saw the erosion of these long entrenched gendered roles in the region’s textile/garment industries. As they assume new roles in the workforce, women face challenges, including discrimination and physical danger. How are women negotiating these challenges? How is women’s textile-based labour valued in South Asia today? As artisans of regional heritage textiles, do men and women exercise their creative agency and market their work differently? What support systems are in place to train new generations of heritage textile makers, advocate for garment factory workers, and educate young women from textile making communities? This introduction to the special edition on confluences of gender, labour, and textiles/fashion in contemporary South Asia lays out the questions posed above. It provides a brief overview of textile production in the subcontinent, focusing on makers, markets, the role of gendered labour, and the interventions the following articles make to the field. The authors of the articles in this edition – scholars of art history, sociology, anthropology, political science, media and gender studies, and a textile curator and founder of a textile-based Non-Governmental Organization – offer unique insight into the South Asian textile/garment industry from the vantage point of garment factory workers, activists, socially engaged artists, factory owners, heritage textile makers, and recyclers of discarded fabric.

Women workers and the contestation of gender roles in Vietnam’s new rural factories

ABSTRACT In Vietnam garment factories are increasingly moving to rural areas, encouraged by government incentives and labour shortages. Many factories predominantly employ women, and in this article we examine the experiences of 12 women working at a factory in their home village in northern Vietnam. Factory work, because it is in the formal sector, has made visible to the women’s families and their communities that they are ‘workers’, in contrast to the invisibility of domestic and family agriculture work. Taking an empowerment approach to frame this study, we argue that their new financial resources and visibility as workers led them to challenge gendered roles in their households in important ways, including around financial decision-making and the distribution of domestic work. They also felt their status within the community was elevated. However, our findings show that empowerment is conditional, incremental and constrained by patriarchal familial dynamics and gendered societal scripts. As with elsewhere, the tensions between factory work as a form of empowerment and as a form of exploitation are inherently linked, and women’s gendered identities shape the ways factory owners are able to create a cheaper factory workforce in rural Vietnam.

Gender-Based Violence and Harassment in Bangladesh’s Ready-Made Garments (RMG) Industry: Exploring Workplace Well-Being Issues in Policy and Practice

Gender-based violence and harassment (GBVH) in the workplace are major issues that affect the work environment and employee well-being. These issues have received little attention from managers in the ready-made garments (RMG) factories or policymakers more generally in Bangladesh, despite the comprehensive approach to restructuring the industry following two devastating industrial accidents. This research examines the role played by RMG factory managers in eliminating gender-based violence and increasing positive work experiences and well-being in the workplace, and the policy initiatives from the government with the aim to stop workplace violence. The study uses qualitative methods—document analysis and semi-structured interviews. The findings reveal that measures to protect workers from GBVH are absent in employment regulation. Though there are high court directives on workplace harassment, these have not been implemented effectively. The findings show that women workers have faced longstanding GBVH, which has impacted their well-being. The increasing rate of women leaving RMG sector jobs reflects how women workers’ well-being issues have been disregarded within the factories.

Inquiry-based learning: a student-centric approach to engaging students in sustainability and life cycle thinking

The increasingly volatile, complex, ambiguous and uncertain (VUCA) nature of the world has been recognized by business leaders and others. Experiential learning offers multiple opportunities for students to actively engage in their learning and spark their interest and motivation to address complex societal problems. Inquiry-Based Learning (IBL) is a student-centric experiential learning method. This paper describes a proposed application of IBL based on a past incident, the collapse of a garment factory in 2013. In this proposed application, students will formulate and refine an inquiry question, and collect and analyze information focusing on the role, responsibilities and decisions made by the various stakeholders. Students will also reflect on the life cycle of a consumer product and the implications of a linear economy and supply chain perspective and their social dimensions. This analysis will be guided by the five phases of IBL. Such an approach is suitable for all types of engineering disciplines and levels.

Prevalence of occupational injuries and associated factors among workers of textile and garment factories during the era of COVID-19 pandemic in mekelle city, Northern Ethiopia: A cross-sectional study.

Occupational injury is any personal injury that can lead to disease, disability, or death due to accidents sustained by workers while performing their work. The present study aimed to determine the prevalence of occupational injuries and associated factors among workers of textile and garment factories in Mekelle City, Northern Ethiopia during the era of COVID-19. A cross-ectional study was conducted among 348 Textile and Garment factories in Mekelle City, Northern Ethiopia on September and October 2020. Data were collected using a semi-structured face-to-face interview questionnaire by trained data collectors and supervisors. Occupational injury was assessed by a yes/no question "Have you had any injury related to your occupation in the last 12 months?."Epi Data version 3.1 was used to enter data and Statistical Package for Social Sciences (SPSS) version 23 was used for data analysis. A multivariable logistic regression model was used to determine the independent determinants of occupational injury, and variables with p < 0.05 were considered as statistically significant. The annual prevalence rate of occupational injury among textile and garment factories was 27.8% (95% confidence interval [CI] = 23.2-32.9%). Factors like being a male (AOR = 3.65; 95% CI = 1.92-6.92), job satisfaction (AOR = 0.22; 95% CI = 0.11-0.43), sleeping disorder (AOR = 3.47; 95% CI = 1.91-6.32), job stress (AOR = 2.62; 95% CI = 1.44-4.73), and safety and health training (AOR = 0.40; 95% CI = 0.22-0.74) were significantly associated with the occurrence of occupational injury. Expectedly, lockdown during COVID-19 could lead to absenteeism and reduced prevalence of occupational injuries as the outcome of this study.

Uncomfortable quilts: textile-based artivism in response to Bangladeshi garment factory disasters

ABSTRACT Recently, two deadly garment factory disasters in Dhaka, Bangladesh – the 2012 Tazreen Fashions factory fire (117 killed; over 200 injured) and the 2013 collapse of Rana Plaza, an eight story complex including garment factories (1,135 killed, over 2,500 injured) – inspired a series of artworks addressing globalisation, gendered labour exploitation, memorialisation, and the power of empathy. This essay explores the work of four visual artists: Robin Berson, Taslima Akhter, Reetu Sattar, and Dilara Begum Jolly. Each engages in physically and/or emotionally challenging creative processes, including enactments of repetitive garment labour, weaving the names and faces of deceased workers into textiles, and displaying personal effects such as family photographs salvaged from the ruins of the destroyed factories. In this way, the artists call attention to the human cost of so-called ‘fast fashion’ and agitate for moral responsibility in the face of these disasters. More universally, this essay offers examples of how visual art can expose the causal dimensions of structural violence and socio-economic power imbalances while also memorialising, expressing solidarity, and aiding with community healing.

Mapping Violence Against Women within the Discourse of Globalization: An Ethnographic Study Based on South Asian Garments Factory

Globally, one of the twentieth-century developments is the increased participation of women workers in factories. Indeed, women workers continue to play an essential role in the global economy. But the participation of women in wage labour is regarded as a form of violence in South Asian countries, particularly Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. However, this study documenting the experiences of violence against women in garments factory contributes to the idea of ‘violence against women as part of Globalization. This study recognizes the relationship between the different sufferings of women workers in garment factories through a gender relations lens and the key issues involving gender inequality, education, coercion and sexual harassment and how they represent global inequality and local identity. This article also offers to understand the trends and challenges of the women workers choosing a career in the garment factory. This study was conducted among the different ages of garment women workers in the garments of Bangladesh and Sri Lanka using ethnographic study under qualitative research method involving in-depth interviews, survey and participant observation was used to collect data about their experiences and suffering of violence against women. The preliminary results of the research show that 98% of women from marginalized backgrounds have faced social, cultural, economic and health issues. In addition, 45% of women reported being sexually harassed by male garment employees. This study extends the position of women, which is the most pressing challenge for women’s empowerment. Following an ethnographic analysis of research findings, it can be said that only equal rights, respect, and gender equality pave a new path for women and eliminate all forms of violence globally.

Current Socio-Economic Conditions and Mental Health of Female RMG Workers: A Narrative Review

With an estimated 4 million workers, garment manufacturers in Bangladesh contribute to the country’s economic prosperity. Most of the female employees in this industry come from rural regions. These workers frequently do repetitive, continuous, and lengthy tasks including stitching, ironing, packaging, and lifting large objects. The presence of toxic factors in the workplace can have detrimental effects on an employee’s physical and mental well-being as well as the organization’s general health. This study aimed to investigate the mental health and socioeconomic situation of female RMG workers. Materials and Methods: The search approach that was used was a thorough electronic search of PubMed, CINAHL, Scopus, Science Direct, and the Cochrane Library. This review includes all publicly available research that had a full-text article in the database and a thorough methodology. Results: Eleven studies were included in this review. The studies revealed that the majority of the readymade garment workers are female around 80-90%. They are from rural areas and not highly educated. The mental health issues are due to result of working at uncomfortable positions at the factory and simultaneously fulfilling family demands at home. According to the experts, female employees’ health is impacted by their physical work environment, poor employment position, and the type of their profession. The female employees shared their own accounts of experiencing physical and verbal abuse, ongoing pressure, various personal limitations, and wage withholding in the workplace. Conclusions: Review of socio-economic status and mental health issues among the lowly educated young garment factory workers revealed that the uncooperativeness of various stakeholders were the biggest reasons for mental health issues. Women participated in the majority of the research projects. As a result, it’s essential to set up targeted initiatives to improve the mental health of garment workers.

Evaluation of the pattern of neck pain with forward head posture (fhp) among sewing machine operators- A cross-sectional study

One of the very common negative effects experienced by operators and workers of sewing machines is neck pain. The use of sewing machines in a forward-leaning position over an extended period of time contributes to neck strain and promotes bad postures like the Forward Head Posture (FHP). The objective of this study was to determine the prevalence of FHP and neck pain among sewing machine operators in tailors and garment factories of District Swabi, Pakistan. This cross-sectional study was carried out on a total of 223 users of sewing machines while seated (97 women and 126 men). The study was conducted in Swabi District from October 2022 to February 2023. The outcomes were evaluated using a numerical pain rating scale and the Neck Disability Index (NDI). According to the Numerical pain Rating Scale (NPRS) for neck pain, 24 participants (10.8%) reported mild discomfort, 79 participants (35.4%) reported moderate pain, and 120 participants (53.8%) reported severe pain. Only 13.9% (n=31) of the participants (n=192) had a normal head position. The majority of the participants were hunched forward. The NPRS had a mean of 3.43 (± SD 0.49), the NDI mean was 3.43 (± 0.68), and the cranial vertebral angle (CVA) mean was 1.13 (±SD 0.34). According to the findings of the current study, FHP and neck pain are quite common among individuals who use sewing machines, and a large percentage of these people also have FHP and neck discomfort.

Integrated Multi-Vendor Single-Buyer Inventory System Model in Textile Waste Processing Industry

PT. Superbtex Nonwoven Division is one of the industries implementing a green manufacturing system in Bandung by using textile solid waste as raw material and processing it into value-added finished products. However, the solid waste generated by consumers and garment factories is very large and cannot be accommodated in its entirety by PT. Superbtex Nonwoven Division. Another problem arises in terms of inventory both for vendors and buyers; delivering waste from vendors to buyers in small quantities and frequently can lower inventory costs for buyers, but concurrently raise transportation expenses for vendors, and vice versa. Therefore this research was conducted to solve the problem of an integrated multi vendor-single buyer inventory system that considers independent transportation, sorting, and disposal to find the minimum total system cost by finding the optimal value of order lot size, delivery frequency, and proportion of order lot size. that each vendor needs to send to the buyer. Problem-solving is done using the Mixed Integer Non Linear Programming (MINLP) method with the LINGO 18.0 solver. The results obtained from this study stated that the sorting costs at vendor 1 (S1), the sorting costs at the buyer (Sb), the transportation variable costs (Fy), the delivery truck capacity (X), and the demand rate (D) have a significant effect to changes in total system cost (TC). So that the five parameters need to be estimated carefully to determine the optimal system cost.

Assembly Line Balancing and Sensitivity Analysis of a Single-Model Stochastic Sewing Line Using Arena Simulation Modelling

Assembly line balancing is always a critical responsibility for manufacturers as it controls the efficiency and productivity of the assembly line. There are many techniques to solve line balancing problems, some of which are revealed in the literature review section, but computer-aided simulation modelling is prevalent among them. This study aims to analyze an assembly line balancing problem using a discrete event simulation software (Arena) for the optimal solution and sensitivity analysis of the solution. The empirical study was carried out at Arunima Sportswear Limited garment factory, and a garment style (kid’s pants) with 21 operations was taken into account. The computer model was verified by line supervisors and validated by a statistical hypothesis test (t-test). Then, using the Arena OptQuest tool, an optimal solution to the model is achieved. The average throughput of 904 pieces per day was achieved in the proposed model, which was 163 pieces higher than the existing model’s output. The line efficiency of the current model (75.76%) was also increased in the proposed model, which was 92.43%. Finally, a sensitivity analysis is performed by varying the values of some key factors (i.e., entities per arrival, process failure time, and operators’ absenteeism) to determine the level of uncertainty of the model.

Women workers in the garment factories of Cambodia: A feminist labor geography of global (re‐) production networks. By MichaelaDoutch, Edition regio spectra. 8, chapters, 333 pages

Women workers in the garment factories of Cambodia: A feminist labor geography of global (re‐) production networks. By MichaelaDoutch, Edition regio spectra. 8, chapters, 333 pages

The impact of climate change on the lives and livelihoods of readymade garment (RMG) workers: an exploratory study in selected readymade garment factories in Bangladesh

BackgroundThere is a paucity of resources focusing on the climate change experience of readymade garment (RMG) workers in developing countries such as Bangladesh. Therefore, this mixed method approach aims to understand the distinctive types of climate change experiences from a health and occupational perspective, along with the consequences of these changes among RMG workers in Bangladesh.MethodsThe study was conducted from January 2022 and February 2022 where the quantitative data were collected from 200 RMG workers in 10 randomly selected garments and two focus group discussions took place with 20 conveniently selected RMG workers. The key informants were relevant stakeholders in the industry. Quantitative findings were reported using descriptive methods and qualitative findings were analysed using a content analysis approach.ResultA total of 200 RMG workers were included in the study of which the majority belonged to the age group of 26–30 years (44%), were male (55%), worked in a compliant factory (70%), and were machine operators (79%). Half of the respondents experienced damage from natural disasters (51%), but only approximately 37% received humanitarian help. Migration and urbanisation were among the aftermath of the damage caused by e natural disasters, and 42% were forced to shift their homes due to natural disasters. Competition in the job market increased, and the owners had the opportunity to take on employees at a reduced salary. The respondents flagged climate change as a major contributor to their disease patterns. More than three-quarters of the respondents became sick because of increased heat while working; however, only half received any treatment.ConclusionEmployee participation in hazard recognition, employer preparedness, prevention through design, research, surveillance, and upholding workplace ethics and standards can be the answers to climate change problems for readymade garment workers.

Ergonomic Environmental Relations with Occurrence of Work Accidents in Hisara Bali Garment Factory Garment Workers

Industrialization in Indonesia supports the use of technology, equipment, machines and various materials to produce good products or services in order to compete in the market. However, along with these progress and developments, it triggers various Occupational Safety and Health (K3) problems, such as increasing sources of danger, increasing potential hazards, risk of illness and accidents due to work. So this research was conducted to obtain the relationship between the ergonomics environment and the occurrence of work accidents in garment workers at Hisara Bali Garment Factory. The design of this research is descriptive qualitative research. The sample of this research is all garment workers at Hisara Bali Garment Factory, totaling 25 people because it uses total sampling. Data was collected by giving questionnaires and data analysis was done by Univariate analysis and Bivariate analysis using Chi-Square test. The results showed that there is a relationship between the ergonomics environment and the occurrence of work accidents, so it is necessary to improve the ergonomic environment in order to minimize the occurrence of work accidents at Hisara Bali Garment Factory.

Gender-Based Violence and Global Capitalism: Everyday experiences of female laborers in the fast fashion garment industry

The garment industry is an industrial sector that recruits more female laborers. However, female laborers in the garment industry often experience various forms of injustice and acts of violence, such as low wages, gender discrimination or high workloads. Various forms of injustice and violence must be studied continuously, considering that this industry is still rapidly growing globally. The emergence of the fast fashion trend encourages the expansion of the garment industry, which can potentially eternalize injustice and violence against female laborers. Female garment laborers bear a substantial role in the production sector, starting from preparing materials, cutting materials, sewing, ironing, and playing various roles as helpers in various production processes. This paper examines daily experiences of injustice and violence experienced by several female garment laborers from one of the garment factories in Jakarta. Adopting the theoretical approach of feminist everyday political economy, this paper analyzes those experiences that reflect miscellaneous structural and cultural gender violence heavily influenced by global capitalism.

Increasing green footprints: Indications of transformations in the socio‐economic spaces of Bangladesh

AbstractIn recent decades, Bangladesh has seen significant environmental degradation and the loss of its GDP, which has had a detrimental effect on public health, agriculture, forestry, fisheries, industrial development, and environmental services. The unusually high temperatures, humidity, and unpredicted rainfall gave rise to disease like dengue and affecting peoples mental health. However, the government, as well as public and private groups, are undertaking some phenomenal efforts to help reduce environmental degradation and raise the number of green footprints. The objective of this article is to examine the green initiatives, strategies, and policies of Bangladeshi organizations in enhancing green footprints in the socio‐economic spaces, through comprehensive content analysis of various newspapers, journal articles, government reports, and company annual reports. The aim of this article is to trace out the evidences of change in the socio‐economic fabric of the society. The primary focus of the article on the environment friendly business activities, which eventually bring social changes. The article found that green HRM, green business, MFS, green corporate culture is increasingly been seen in the society, which indicate silent changes. Bangladesh has put regulations and programs into place to lessen carbon emissions and safeguard sensitive coastal areas. It is noteworthy for demonstrating a strong dedication to improving sustainable development and environmental preservation. Many organizations in Bangladesh have also received the prestigious Asia's Corporate Excellence and Sustainability Awards for their outstanding zeal to ensure positive environmental changes in the society. Moreover, large proportion of Bangladesh's energy mix comes from renewable energy sources, leading to the installed renewable energy capacity of 579 MW. Additionally, the government has announced plans on replacing traditional transport methods with electric or hybrid vehicles. Bangladesh has further solidified its position as the global leader in green garments factories, as the country has 176 such facilities that have received the USGBC's LEED accreditation. The article placed a strong emphasis on particular policy proposals, including the adoption of the circular economy, the digital economy, sustainable finance, car‐sharing systems, renewable energy sources in manufacturing and workplaces, and environmentally friendly practices in both public and private organizations.

Garment production line optimization using production information based on real‐time power monitoring data

AbstractThe implementation of Fourth Industrial Revolution technologies at a manufacturing site requires analysis of the site status based on real‐time information, optimization of the processes, and onsite execution. However, in labor‐intensive industries, such as the garment‐manufacturing industry, it is extremely difficult to develop smart factories based on real‐time onsite information because such industries are accustomed to managing labor using empirical expert judgment; moreover, they require rapid production circulation and are dependent on human‐related factors. In this study, we developed an optimization simulator using onsite real‐time production information that provides decision‐making support to maximize the productivity of a garment production plant. As an optimization method, a genetic algorithm was used to incorporate operator relocation into various garment production line variables. Through the developed simulator, field managers can predict and optimize productivity with simple operation in connection with production information. The application of the simulation optimization process to an actual production line in an Indonesian garment factory indicated that the simulator can improve productivity by 34.8%. The results of this study will provide guidance regarding the application of industrial information integration in labor‐intensive industries using methods that can systematically support decision‐making to achieve optimal productivity.

Improved menstrual health and the workplace: An RCT with female Bangladeshi garment workers

Menstrual hygiene practices in low-income countries are often limited by lack of finances and information, with potentially adverse consequences for women’s well-being and workplace outcomes. In a randomized controlled trial with around 1,900 female workers from four Bangladeshi garment factories, we relax both constraints individually and jointly by providing free sanitary pads and information on hygienic menstrual practices. Both access to sanitary pads and information improve menstrual practices, either by the adoption of new products, or by knowledge gains and improved use of traditional materials, and both interventions improve health outcomes. However, these positive effects do not translate to better labor outcomes, such as earnings and work attendance.

Exploring the factors influencing Mobile‐based Ubiquitous System adoption in the Bangladesh RMG sector: A view through DOI and TOE

AbstractRelatively little is known about micro‐ and macro‐level determinants of mobile phone ubiquitous system (MbUS) adoption by the manufacturing industry, such as is the case with the ready‐made garment (RMG) industry in Bangladesh. This research closes this gap, by presenting the adoption factors of MbUS in RMGs through applying the Rogers' Diffusion of Innovation theory and technology, organization, environment framework, to explore individual, technological, organizational, and environmental determinants of MbUS adoption. The study also reports on critical country level‐factors, organizational success factors and obstacles in MbUS adoption in RMGs. A qualitative method using interviews with the ready‐made garment (RMG) factory owners, managers, employees, and IT experts, suggests technological readiness, easily understandable MbUS technology, RMG capability, government intervention, and a supportive regulatory environment, were found to be macro‐level determinants of successful MbUS adoption. A survey was also conducted to explore the micro‐level customer‐centric factors, which found the relative advantages of MbUS, cost, the age of user's (p &lt; 0.000), and influence on intention to use MbUS. This paper also identifies MbUS as a technical solution for time‐critical information in RMGs, the competitive environment of RMGs, empowerment opportunities and countrywide demands to improve the RMG situation, are important adoption factors of MbUS rarely identified in prior literature. The findings will be of value to RMGs, government, and MbUS developers, to accelerate development of MbUS in Bangladesh. Furthermore, the findings have implications for other developing countries by improving the capacity of RMGs, while realizing their own development goals through mobile technologies.

The Role of Boundary-Spanners in the Control of a Chinese Garment Factory in Myanmar

This research examines the role of intraorganisational boundary-spanners, as mechanisms of workplace control, through an ethnographic study of a Chinese-run garment factory in Myanmar. The findings demonstrate how these intermediaries, rather than facilitating open communication, exerted a restraining influence on their cross-cultural workplace by identifying, dissolving and suppressing the expression of grievances. Wielding relationship-based informal power and position-based formal power, these intermediaries employed various means of persuasion and communication manipulation and disciplinary measures to contain dissatisfaction and maintain stability, whereby workers were directed to abandon their demands and align their expectations with management interests. Merging the literature on labour and management control with that on boundary-spanning in cross-cultural contexts, this article challenges the view that boundary-spanners enhance communication and promote consensus across boundaries, spotlighting the need to examine their activities in light of the profound influence of power dynamics in organisations.