Garment Engineering Research Articles

DESIGNING A WEB-BASED APPLICATION OF MATERIAL AND INVENTORY MANAGEMENT FOR GARMENT WORKSHOP

Inventory management must be implemented properly so that the flow of goods can be controlled easily. A large number of small sized tools and materials in the workshop of Garment Engineering major require a well-managed inventory. Moreover, the rapid circulation of their inflow and outflow also needs to be addressed well. The garment workshop managers currently only record the material flow manually in the logbook, so it is necessary to design an application that can help them achieving more effective and efficient records. This designed application contains information about the amount of workshop material inflow, outflow and their availability. There are other features which considers the number of materials needed based on the available stock. Barcode system is also utilized to ease the data input process. Usability test was then performed to the application using System Usability Scale (SUS) questionnaire, resulting in average of 63,75 from all of the respondents. That value shows that this application has a low level of usability. Where it is actually understandable since this is the first prototype for the next application developments. All of the application menu and features can be successfully running and the application also helps the garment workshop managers a lot, thus in accordance with the purpose of making this application

Non-contact clothing anthropometry based on two-dimensional image contour detection and feature point recognition

Developing the technology of estimating human body size from two-dimensional images is the key to realising more digitalization and artificial intelligence in the textile and garment industry. Therefore, this paper is an in-depth study of estimating body sizes from two-dimensional images in a self-collected database of human body samples. First, the artificial thresholds in the Canny edge operator were replaced by adaptive thresholds. The improved Canny edge operator was combined with mathematical morphology so that it could detect a clear and complete single human contour. Then a joint point detection algorithm based on a convolution neural network and human proportion is proposed. It can detect human feature points with different body proportions. Finally, front and side images and manual body measurements of 122 males aged 18–22 years were collected as the human sample database, calculating the length and fit of the girth size. Compared with manual body measurement data, the error of human length and girth size parameters within the national standard range of –1.5 ~ 1.5 cm can reach 91% on average. This study provides an accurate and convenient anthropometric method for digital garment engineering, which can be used for online shopping and garment customization, and has a certain practical value.

Historical changes of Chinese costumes from the perspective of archaeology

Garments are an important product in the history of human development. With the development of human history, there is also a constant reform and evolution of garments. As the bearer of historical culture in each period, the changes in the shape and production process of costume are the result of the continuous evolution of Chinese costume culture. Nowadays, historical artifacts from various dynasties are continuously unearthed, which are of great value for the study of ancient costumes. From the perspective of garment engineering and archaeology, this paper analyzes the representative costume-related artifacts of each dynasty, and through the understanding of the costume history and culture of each dynasty, 3D digital restoration of the costumes is carried out based on virtual fitting technology to show the more complete development of ancient costumes. It has a certain reference value for the study of the historical changes of ancient Chinese costumes, and it is also helpful for the preservation of ancient Chinese costumes and the promotion of ancient Chinese costume culture.

Construction of the “Identical Fusion” Relationship Between Garment CAD and Core Professional Courses Under Background of Engineering Certification

At present, there are two outstanding problems in the teaching of garment CAD in colleges and universities: one 
 is missing of parametric structure design function for garment CAD teaching software, the other is disconnection between 
 garment CAD and core professional courses. From the perspective of talent development and industry demand, teaching reform is 
 proposed: first of all, the curriculum of garment engineering drawing is established to introduce the general AutoCAD software for 
 engineering majors. Secondly, under the framework of “identical fusion” relationship, the curriculum group is constructed, which 
 contains two-dimentinal and three-dimentinal garment CAD, garment structure design, together with garment technology. The 
 reform mode has shown good teaching effect in practice.

VIRTUAL 3D KINEMATIC HUMAN MODEL PROTOTYPE

In the past several years, the application of 3D technologies in the textile and clothing design industry has considerably increased and become more accessible to designers and patternmakers. With digitisation in garment engineering and virtual prototype and modelling techniques becoming more mainstream, a new generation of virtual human models starts to develop to fulfil the demand for protective and functional products designed for specific athletes, such as climbers and mountaineers. We must base our work on an improved understanding of the behaviour of the musculoskeletal system to develop garment patterns that minimise discomfort and improve performance under dynamic body deformations and muscle contractions associated with specific movements. For this study, we explored the possibilities of using existing software packages for virtual prototyping based on human kinematic models for functional clothing.

Research on zero waste garment engineering design in sustainable environment

With life becoming more convenient and rich, the pollution caused by human beings is far beyond our imagination. This study focuses on the clothing industry, which is closely related to human life, and its ecological pollution and waste of resources. It attempts to combine environmental issues to create clothing that can convey the concept of a sustainable environment and a more friendly Earth 2050: The Future of Energy. Different from the previous green environmental protection design, the current fashion trend is not only to promote environmental protection, but also to emphasize blue economy. In environmental protection, find out the industrial and economic values that meet various costs to achieve sustainable operation. In this study, the concept of environmental sustainability is brought into the clothing project. The goal is that the manufacturing process will not produce cloth waste. All cloth will go through the life course of clothing. The clothing project of “zero waste”will be built. The consumed resources will be fully utilized. In this research design, water resources, which is the most threatening issue of human sustainable environment, are used as the main design axis with blue as the image. Pollution and optimization issues faced by water resources are applied to clothing design thinking, presenting a series of clothing with zero waste structure, and implementing good behaviors of “sustainable” environment in life.

SUPPORTING DIGITALIZATION IN GARMENT ENGINEERING THROUGH VIRTUAL PROTOTYPING

This contribution deals with the new trends related to the digitalization in garment engineering. More than ten years ago can be found complaints of clothing companies on the lack of effective CAD software to design garments directly in 3D and to provide pattern designer tools for shape modelling and simulation of cloth behavior. Today, with a mass customization, e-commerce, advances in virtual reality applications, the virtual garment development is strongly desired in order to optimize apparel industry’s design and development processes. To survive in global competitive market, garment manufacturers are forced to transform their manufacturing processes toward, having a more flexible production system to meet the rapid changes in the global market, and started the transition to a new technological level through digitalization advances and challenges of Industry 4.0. Described are the possibilities for exploiting advances in digitization in garment engineering through virtual prototyping and production of smart clothing.

Design and Evaluation of Sport Garments for Cold Conditions Using Human Thermoregulation Modeling Paradigm

Thermo physiological comfort is an important aspect of apparel especially when worn under challenging environmental conditions, and relevant performance attributes of garments become even more important in active sportswear. The wide spectrum of performance materials and their combinations that can be selected for garment engineering indicates that during the design and engineering process it is impossible to test all possible combinations of materials and garment constructions before the final prototype is developed. In the present study, a Thermal Manikin was used with a physiological model for testing the multi-layered garment ensembles suitable for stop-go sport in sub-zero conditions. It was demonstrated that physiological indicators output from the experiments depend on the ensembles worn and their performance attributes relevant to human physiological comfort. The use of the model along with the Thermal Manikin is a valuable method for sportswear design and engineering.

Predicting Garment Appearance Quality

Developing steps in designing a system for predicting garment appearance quality are presented. The articles of clothing investigated are ladies' jackets and the accent is given to subjective evaluation of individual factors of garment appearance quality. A group of semi-skilled evaluators and a group of experts in the field of garment engineering were doing the evaluation. This system of dual evaluation and comparison of the grades obtained are key factors in the development of the predicting models using the method of machine learning. The algorithms of the latter are implemented in the Orange machine learning system, which was used to develop the system for predicting garment appearance quality grade. It is founded on previous knowledge of correlations among the quality grade of a particular factor of garment appearance quality and the parameters of mechanical and physical properties of the analysed fabrics, incorporated into the garments in question. The workings of the system designed result in a prediction of garment appearance quality grade, presented separately for each individual factor of appearance quality defined.

Equipment and methods used to investigate energy processing parameters of sewing technology operations

PurposeThe equipment for computerised measuring of electrical power and energy is presented, adapted to the needs of investigating processing parameters of garment sewing operations.Design/methodology/approachThe method of measuring the energy necessary to run the sewing‐machine driving electrical motor is also presented, correlated to the stitching speed in joining a straight seam in a single, two, or three, segments. Electrical energy consumption is analysed as dependent on the stitching speed, varying the number of stitches in the seam.FindingsThe investigations described have shown the impact of the method of work applied and the effect of the changes in garment sewing operation in processing parameters on the level of electrical energy consumed by the sewing‐machine drive electrical motor. A new measuring method has been introduced in garment engineering, aimed at predicting electrical energy consumption in garment sewing operations, thus opening a completely new field of investigation in the area of garment technologies.Originality/valueA method of calculating the energy processing parameters of sewing operations.

Investigation of dynamic working zones and movements in garment engineering

A new measuring system for three‐dimensional video recording is described, together with its application and possibilities in investigating dynamic working zones in garment manufacturing processes, employing a kinematic method. A video recording can be processed as a series of static frames or as a dynamic series of recordings, employing a system for video recording and storing the recordings from three planes (ground plane, side view and frontal representation of a workplace). Static zones are created by movements of levels one to four, while dynamic zones are created with the help of the whole body, using movements of levels five and six. Processing is done using a contemporary computerised system, software for processing video recording and software for image processing. The new measuring system presented works together with the measuring system for the processing parameters of garment sewing operations, and enables the investigator to work on movement cyclograms and dynamic workingzones, depending on the processing parameters,operation structure and workplace designing.Results obtained relevant for the investigations in garment engineering processes are described, with the emphasis on work study and workplace designing in the garment industry – the need to measure spatial values (angles, distances, dimensions etc.), temporal values (duration of the movements, movement trajectories, acceleration etc.). The process ofcreating a cyclogram for the graphic presentation of movements is also presented.

The impact of auxiliary devices on sewing‐machines upon processing parameters of sewing operations

An investigation is presented of the impact of mechanical auxiliary devices on sewing‐machines upon the processing parameters of sewing operations. Processing parameters are investigated at an ergonomically designed workplace, on a modern sewing‐machine, equipped with a processing microcomputer. Measuring samples are 300 to 1,000mm long, and stitching speeds are pre‐programmed – 1,500 to 4,700rpm. Values for sewing operation processing parameters are measured and stored using the measuring system for processing parameters MMPP, developed especially for the purpose of research in the field of garment engineering. The results obtained indicate that using a tape piper the basic time needed to perform the sewing operation is reduced by up to 61.2 per cent, while the use of a hemmer reduces it by 38.3 per cent. Specific time for sewing 1m of seam is reduced using the above auxiliary devices as follows: by 64.5 per cent using a tape piper and by 41.8 per cent using a hemmer. The degree of sewing‐machine utilisation is increased by 110.6 per cent using a tape piper, and by 59.8 per cent using a hemmer. Average stitching in machine‐hand sub‐operations is increased with a tape piper from 1,041 to 3,914rpm, and from 1,176 to 3,959rpm with a hemmer. The operation structure is altered by using auxiliary devices, achieving rationalisation of the movements constituting auxiliary‐hand sub‐operations, which has a considerable impact on the processing parameters involved.

STRAIN MEASUREMENT IN FABRICS. PART IV: A NON-CONTACT METHOD OF DETERMINING FINITE STRAINS - APPLICATION TO STRAIN FIELDS IN GARMENTS

A non-contact method of measuring strain fields in fabrics, described in previous papers, has been applied to a problem in garment engineering. The particular problem is that of the strain developed across seams in garments intended for use in the operating room, where seam failure is unacceptable. The method is applied to the back seams of prototype disposable trousers constructed with different ease allowances. The difficulties of applying the method in practice to garments that are stressed by large movements of the body are discussed. The methods used to overcome the difficulties are described. Example strain fields from the study are given.

Investigations of the structure and process parameters of sewing operation

Abstract Original measuring equipment is presented, together with the systems aimed at investigating process parameters of the operation structure and establishing optimal working methods to evaluate properly real working conditions of the man-machine system in garment engineering and technologies. The measuring equipment consists of the system for measuring and storing data on process parameters and bi-plane system of video recording. The system for measuring and data storage is equipped with four sensors, which measure rotation speed of the main shaft, arm movements in the taking and laying-off zones, as well as the movements of pedal regulator, used to manage and control the overall sewing dynamics, all in a simultaneous and contactless manner. Bi-plane system of video recordings is used to record simultaneously the working movement systems (working methods) at the workplace analysed. The operation of seam sewing on the front part of a ladies’ costume is analysed on a designed workplace, using the above described measuring equipment and system of measuring. The whole cycle of recording the technological operation included 10 consecutive executions, while the operation is performed by an operator of an average level of skill (KPZ = 1,00, coefficient of proficiency). On the basis of process parameter measurements, employing computer processing of the signals from the sensors, graphs are obtained for the technological operation structure, with the duration of individual suboperations indicated, and also showing the changes occurring in the course of sewing caused by pedal regulator movements (which manage and control the overall dynamics of sewing and the function of the processing microcomputer of the sewing machine. Bi-plane video recording system is used to investigate the working method employed, basic movements and optimal logical sets of movements, as well as the cyclograms of the movements, used to define spatial and temporal values. The results obtained are compared with the system of synthetic normal time (MTM) and indicate negligible discrepancies.