This study takes ‘The Invention of Tradition’ presented by Eric Hobsbawm as a topic and focuses on naengmyeon as a food culture in memory and a food culture that is being created and recreated from the transition to modern times to the present. The purpose is to examine its characteristics. Naengmyeon is especially closely related to social changes during the transition to modernity and the Japanese colonial period, and is an important keyword in understanding food literature or food culture of that era and the division era. Focusing on the movement of the discourse on Naengmyeon from ‘Pyongyang’ to ‘Gyeongseong’ based on contemporary literary materials, we see this as revealing the metamorphosis phenomenon of culture in the transition period to modernity, and identify mobility and hybridity among the characteristics of Korea’s transition period to modernity. This is an attempt to explain.